Doug_B_928

I changed the the oil and filter in my 08S last weekend. After the initial fill, I ran the motor and then checked the level again, and it went down quite a bit. So, I topped up to max. I just checked the level and it is about 1/8th of an inch over the max line. It had been a couple of hours since it had been run. So, I started the car, let it run for a minute, then checked again and the level was about 1/8th" below the max line. So, I'm wondering if I should remove the filter housing to release that amount of oil and see if that does the trick to get it to the max on a cold check, or is it okay as it is?

TIA

It's an 08 S. Do you think the battery would cause that door switch not to work? The durametric measures battery voltage, and, IIRC, I think it was giving 12V.

I put my durametric on my new-to-me Cayenne and it came up with a fault in the electrical system. But it didn't have a four digit code. All it says is:

Electrical system

Part: 7L.593.704.9A

Diagnosis 12

Also, under automatic tailgate there is a fault:

Part number 7L.595.910.7

Diagnosis Number 12

Fault code 3234

Function restrict. due to critical vehicle electric. system condition.

I searched the 9PA_USA_KATALOG.pdf but the part number didn't come up. What's the next step in trying to figure out what this means?

The little button in the driver's door that opens the tailgaite doesn't work, and so I suspect that is the problem. But I would like to know how to use the information above to help to fix it. I suspect it's a fuse, but don't know.

Any help is appreciated!

The tool which I had to order to get the job done was a 12mm Triple Square to get the upper engine mount torque arm out of the way.

What year is yours? Mine appears to be a regular bolt & nut.

I did some research and found that the coil bolt is a Torx socket; didn't know there were sockets in addition to Torx drives. I'll have to pick some up.

Still unsure about the oil drains for an 08S; anyone?

I started to do maintenance today on my new-to-me 08S. Replaced all window wipers, particle filter, and air filters. I was going to do the spark plugs but don't know what kind of tool to use to get the bolts out that hold the coils in. I've attached a pic (sorry it's blurry). What is this?

Also, I was going to change the oil and filter but I don't have a T50 socket and also am not sure if there are two oil drains on the 08S. I've attached a pic of that too. It looks like there are two drains, but the smaller one doesn't seem to have a crush washer and doesn't look to be the same material as the larger one.

Please advise,

Thanks,

Doug

Whew, thanks Loren! You and this forum are invaluable. I was reluctant to give you rep points when you were at 911, and now you're already at 914. Guess we'll head next for 924!

I used plyers to set it back in place. It feels like it's in there well. Shaking and tapping does not make it fall out again. Is that ok or should I replace the whole thing?

I was just removing some oil from my 997.1 C2S. I set the oil filter housing (OE) on the bench and went to get a new o-ring. The housing rolled off the bench and fell on the floor. When I picked it up there was a small black round piece with a spring inside sitting beside it. I've never seen it so I assume it belongs in the bottom of the filter housing. Is this correct? Is it supposed to come out or is my filter housing broken? If it's okay to put it back in, which way does it go?

I'd be grateful if someone could point me to a decoder for the following VIN (I'm not an auto atalanta customer so I can't use that one): WPJAB29P68LA41901

Okay, I'll keep my eye on it and will take it to the dealer if necessary. Thanks for your help!

Hmmm....so is reprogramming something I can do with Durametric, or is that a dealer PIWIS deal?

Thanks, Loren. What I read from this:

Ignition ON:

On switching on the ignition, referencing of the stepping motors is carried out,

i.e. the motor moves the reflector in the direction of “maximum dip” up to the

stop incorporated in the motor. The calculated position is then approached.

Renewed referencing is carried out only after terminal S has been inactive.

The referencing frequency is tested during the trial phase and the appurtenant

conditions are finalized.

is that with the ignition the lights should dip to the lowest point and then come up to their setting. I recall seeing it do that in the past every time I'd start the car. But I don't understand the last two sentences of the quote......

Also put on durametric and no fault codes.

I just pulled one of the headlights, checked the connection to the servo (it was fine), then put the headlight back in, then put the lights on and turned the key and the auto leveling worked. Then I turned the key off, and and back on again to see if it would work again, but no joy. Shouldn't the auto leveling kick in every time?

I recently changed the bulbs in my headlights. Now I notice that my auto leveling feature isn't working. It may have worked intermittently since I changed the bulbs. Is there a setting for this, or did I do something when changing the bulbs? I don't get any warning messages. I haven't put it on the durametric yet. Just thought I'd run it by you guys to see if anyone has any insights.

TIA

Doug

Interstingly, I think it might be pretty accurate. My garage has a drain and the floor slopes slightly toward the drain. I put my car on my lift, which is level, and the oil measurement is bang on.

Thanks logray.

Too bad your car does not have a dipstick.

That's for sure!

I've only taken my car for a short 15 minute spin and started it a couple of times so far this season. But I've noticed each time that the oil level says overfilled. As you can see above in my write-up, the oil level was perfect when I changed it and it remained that way for the rest of the times of drove the car last fall, though that wasn't too many times. Why would it be too full now? Condensation? Should I wait until I take it for a good one hour ride and see if it goes down (i.e., burn off condensation), or should I remove some oil before running it further?

I was just looking on Pelican and they have the Genuine Porsche water pump and a Laso for about $150 less. I searched for Laso and saw a couple of complaints. Are the two identical (i.e., Laso makes them for Porsche), or is it better to buy the Genuine Porsche?

Terrific, thank you!

bump

Thanks, guys! Since it's low risk seems like a good WYAIT if changing the coolant. One more for today: Should one also change the thermostat ("coolant regulator") as a WYAIT and, if so, does one need special tool P 9627 or is there another method that works as well?

I have one those little thingies where you suck up some coolant and if the arrow points to the right place the coolant is "good." Is that an indicator of PH, or do I need to get something else to measure that?

My car as just under 15,000 kms, so I guess in the miles + age equation I should be good for a while.

Is there any negative to removing the water pump to inspect it if doing coolant anyway? I.e., it doesn't look to be too difficult but, if one is diligent, is it a very low risk procedure? While I'm at it, where do you stand on the "put the gasket on dry" or "use RTV" debate? Thank you!!

Okay, good to know. What about the wisdom of changing the water pump as a preventative measure, along with the coolant, in say 6 year intervals? Good idea or bad idea?