smartrepair

13 hours ago, ttocs said:

Try this:

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/spares-search.html?keyword=996+352+401+04

 

If you enter the part numbers you listed in your first post it'll come up with the discs available. Some of the listed discs have the drawings with dimensions, click on those and it'll zoom.

OK, now I see. I just happened to see discs which didn´t have the drawing! Thanks

On 3/20/2018 at 2:20 PM, ttocs said:

Yep. It's the offset, or total depth.

 

Boxster rotor is 67mm deep, while the 911 rotor is 75mm deep. There's a parts supplier in the UK called Online Car Parts and they have technical drawings for each of the rotors from all of the manufacturers. It's a pretty nice resource!

 

It's interesting to note that this seems to be the only difference. Even the parking brake shoes are the same, go figure. 

Hi,

I tried to find the technical drawings, but couldn´t locate them. Could you post a link?

On 8/19/2017 at 6:22 PM, Dopeyskydiver said:

I found the online version of the Porsche Primary Owners Manual and also the Porsche Communication Management (PCM) Owners Manual for my 2011 Cayenne S on the Porsche USA website:

http://www.porscheownersmanuals.com/2011-cayenne-manual/table-of-contents

 

While it isn't exactly a hardcopy, it still has all of the information.

Great! Many thanks!!!!

Okay, now I understand they were difficult to find

Hi,

I´m trying to find those manuals, but cannot find. Any suggestions?

On 12/12/2015 at 9:40 PM, JFP in PA said:

 

The front rotor and calipers are a bolt on swap and will clear your 18" wheels.  The rear is another story; the S cars used a different wheel hub carrier and e brake assembly, which is completely different from the base cars.  To use the S brakes on the rear, you will need to swap out the carriers for S carriers and then obtain the e brake system for the S car as well.  Not a cheap proposition unless you have a wrecked S sitting around you can cannibalize, and don't mind a lot of work...........

And if I have a 1998 Boxter, do Boxter S rear calibers (or maybe 996 from 98-03) fit?

Richard,

Is there a BIG difference with fuel maps. If here is a minimal difference, I don´t mind...

But what worries me, is that you say the alarm module is coded differently. What do you mean exactly?

Kare

The combo what I was offered, has the same pin-layout (although the seller states the year is 2000) than my car. maybe the model year is 1999? So it should fit?

Hi

I checked the diagnostic line wire, and it´s perfect, no corrosion,and resistance as it should be. The inmobilizer /alarm unit has a fuse and it was Ok, with clean contact points.

So, back to the original question (as it looks like the alarm unit is faulty?), could I swap the other DME/Alarm/key transponder unit to my car, althoug the other car was a tiptronic? My car is manual 1998.

Hi

I have a 98 Boxter with 3.4 engine on it. Suddenly the car doesn´t start. First the car was cranking, but not firing. Now it doesn´t even crank.

With Durametric I got the following codes:

49 k line

10 no current at 30

36,34 and 33 interior senor

42 not correct key or transponder

23 w line

47 locking syncronizing

21 inmobilizer line w

It´s difficult for me to bring the car to the Porsche (long distance), could I use the DME, and matching key transponder/inmobilizer combo from other car? I found one, that is from year 2000 from 996 to swap them over ? This RoW version, and my engine is a RoW as well. The inmobilizer in my car has value M535, and the combo for sale has M534.

Many thanks in advance!!!

best,

Kare

Hi guys,

I bought a 3.8 997 S engine, and it came with flywheel and clutch. The pressure plate and clutch were loose, and I want to install them. I did it once already, but the clutch disk is slipping.The parts are with no noticeable wear.

I know the pressure plate is self-adjusting, and after done some searching I couldn´t find instructions how to install it. I hope the plate was properly removed...

I suppose I must reset the pressure plate self adjusting mechanism somehow, what is the correct procedure?

Many thanks!

Kare

What youmena by "catless headers"? You mention you have the cats fitted...

As far as I know you don´t need to reprogram the comuter (unless it was done wrong).

Any fault codes present?

Kare

Hi

It´s very difficult to estimate the damage by the photos.

Remember the Porsche parts are very expensive (just Porsche makes them), especially for the bodywork. 15.000 $ is nothing in your project, plus the labor. Apart from sheetmetal parts, there are numerous hoses and other bits and pieces you will need, and they are not cheap.

Of course you can try to search used parts, but that´s a long way to go, and will take a while...

Good luck!

Kare, Spain

Are you sure the timing is right?

I just remember, that once one bank is set for right timing, the engine needs to be rotated 360º to set the other bank...otherwise the cycle (compression/exhaust etc.) is not correct (it might on reverse now).

Saludos,

Kare

Up-Date on Boxter Engine Timing

Aloha Everyone,

I really appreciate everyones help in getting my car running. I would like to up-date everyone on the situation. Yesterday we pulled the camshaft cover back off the engine to look at their positions and check the compression on all three cylinders. The compression was good and there has been no contact with valves or pistons. The cams were exactly where they belong as per the pictures of the head and camshafts we took before we pulled it apart. We re-assembled the head yesterday but the engine still will not run.

There is no spark on any on the plugs including 4-6 as well as 1-3. I stuck my computer on the car and it does not read the VIN number any longer. We "reset" the computer during the time we were trying to set the timing on the car. We believe the computer is not allowing the spark. Is there a way to get the computer to get back to normal? Does the computer need to be reset by the Porsche guy here in town and do I need to take the car there or just the computer?

I was thinking the computer might have factory de-fault settings that it could be moved back to by providing the VIN number and connecting the computer to another "programming computer". Everything on the engine is fine, compression is good and the timing is right on. It was probably a mistake to reset the computer. What we did to do this was use the portable computer you plug into the socket on the drivers side to erase the current settings. At the time we thought the computer in the car was getting false signals and was preventing us from getting the timing right.

These problems can lead a person to pull out their hair.

Mahalo

Did 1999-2000 996's come with the option for vinyl door panels instead of leather? From what I understand, the vinyl ones look different than the leather. I'm just not sure if the vinyl only came in boxsters.

(I'm buying a used set from someone who can't remember what they look like, but knows they came out of a 2000 996 cab. and that they are in great shape)

I forgot to mention, the one on the right picture is vinyl. A vinyl panel doesn´t have stiching on it, and the vinylpart is one of piece...

Kare

Yes the vinyl was available, the leather doors (and dashboards was optional)

I think this can be only a temporary solution, too much whp and torque passing by that driveshaft :(

Yes, might be, but as I have nothing to loose, I decided to try it....The original carrier is quite thin, and I think my glue is quite much stronger.

What I don´t know wheter the caulk is too rigid.

But, until today, no issues.

Hi

I did a test, and repaired my MY05 Cayenne drive shaft by myself. The ballbearing carrier was broken (a common fault) and normally needs the comple drive shaft replacement.

AS it was only the rubber part which was broken, I fixed the ballbearing with a Teroson bodyshop glue (used to glue bodywork parts together, without soldering). It´s like a silicon caulk, but much stronger. I didn´t remove the drive shaft, just used the vehicles highest settings for groundclearance, and applied the caulk.

So far I´ve done about 2000 kilometers, and the repair has resisted....

Kare

I'm looking at a 01 Cab that's in nice shape, but the leather (tan) on the steering wheel is heavily stained, rubbed through, etc.; generally looks terrible. It spoils the the whole interior. Maybe the owner has super sweaty palms or wears gloves...dunno. It's only got 50K miles on it. I haven't seen any other car with this fault. I have a hunch this isn't a minor thing to have corrected. Has anyone dealt with it?

Without seeing it it´s difficult to say, but generally speaking the leather can be repaired and tinted to appear as new. It shouldn´t cost toomuch either...The car dealerships should know a local chap who does these repairs for them.

Yeps,the pieces can be sanded and sprayed with 2K clearcoat (the same used in your paintwork).

Uh,the rattle might be a sign that your IMS broke. Mine did the same and the engine was gone....

Don´t crank the engine anymore, until the cause has been investigated. Jack Raby is the expert on these issues, contact him.

Let´s hope for best!

I took my 1998 986 2.5L Tiptronic (approx. 135k miles) to have the oil changed Friday night. The mechanic poured in the the two 5 liter bottles of Mobil 1 5w40, I had to brought in myself and told me it looked like I needed to add a little more oil to the car. I added a quart the next day and the dip stick showed that the oil level was within range.

Two questions for everyone:

1.) Why would the engine be low on oil after pouring in ten liters, shouldn't the car only require 8.8L when changing oil?

***2.) Why does my CAR NOW SOUND LIKE IT HAS ROCKS IN THE ENGINE?

The noise did not start happening until Saturday night. The car had been driving perfectly, I was in park with the engine idling waiting for my gf to get her things together when all of a sudden the car began making this horrible noise and then shut off. I was able to start the car on Sunday morning, drive to the parts store to put in another quart of oil but then the noise was became so bad, I decided it was better not to drive any further. When I last checked the dipstick the oil level was even with the the top indicator marker.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what in the heck happened?

I just had my transmission rebuilt for $3K, sounds like I am going to need a new engine now. :(

Catalytic converter? Torn/Frayed belt?

Yes, anybody knows the differences between the 996/997 S clutch?

You cannot "program" the valet key as there´s no electrics on it....

You will need the original key, otherwise the car won´t start: so be prepared to spend some $$$$´s on it. Triggering the alarm is rather complicated, and you can do a lot of harm. And please do not buy any keys from Ebay, unless they are completely new, you cannot reprogram them, as with the key comes codes needed to match the key. Without the codes you are lost.

However, as suggested on other post, you´d better to buy the Durametric software. You get fantastic support FREE, and they are very helpful. It cannot clear any fault codes with alarm, but at least it will tell you what´s going on....For example, if there is a problem with clutch switch.

Thanks for your advice pal, really appreciate it. I know the piwis/pst2 testers are expensive $3000. I need a professional who can come and do on road service and bring the tester to my house so he can tell me all the faults and what necessary steps I can take to running the vehicle. Towing the vehicle and dealer fee's is not an option its way to expensive.

Before taking on this project, the vehicle was dismantled and had to be put back together...That being said never had an opportunity to start the vehicle and didnt turn over. Obviously it turned over before it was hit the accident, but after the accident and repairs I dont know anything beyond that point.

I'll take the steps you provided, Ill keep you posted my friend on the progress and see if anything works out. At the moment im stuck..untill I can get the original key or have the wallet key programmed.

Is there any way to bypass the alarm to just try to start the vehicle manually? this way Ill know the problem is just they key..and order one in...rather than buying original key spending $300 on it and then it turns out thats not the problem either.

Gavin

Indeed you have the a key, which really only open the doors, nothing else...

You have to contact Porsche stealership to get the matched key with transponder. Otherwise the car won´t start. The same key is your remote control. I´m afraid it will cost quite much, and you need to reprogram the key. Now the alarm blocks any attempts to crank the engine (I don´t remeber what id does exactly). The alarm might also prevent opening the forward trunk, engine bay etc. , although you open the door with a key.

The main wiring harness goes either side from front to back. On right hand side there is one main plug, on the left hand side three plugs, they go by the sills under the plastic parts. Maybe somebody didn´t bother tu put the wires into the right place?

It´s quite a project you are doing, I made a 3.8 S conversion to my MY 99 996 C2 cabrio, and I had to change all the old wiring, DME, alarm, A/C module...

Kare

BTW, I have some old electrical parts, wiring harnesses , Instrument cluster etc. from my car. If you need something, let me know

I do have a alarm module underneath the driver seat its a m535, They key that I was given with the car is the one I shown in the picture, they call it a wallet key and I dont think there is a small transponder cylinderical shape on it.

your right there shouldnt be any cables underneath the passenger seat besides the ones for the seat, but for some reason the person who rebuilt it never hooked those plugs back to there original location. This why I was confused as those plugs seemed like they had to fit some kind of module, I later discovered that those plugs hook up to a connector to distribute the power from the front to the back where the Dme is located.

it could be because I dont have the right key? maybe bad ignition switch I dont know..I do get power from the ignition switch area, I dont have a tester either :(

any other advice my friend? Once again thank you for your help means a lot.

sincerly,

Gavin

Under the driver´s seat there is the alarm module, do you have it? It must match the transponder which is located in your key (open the key to check if a smallish cylindrical piece is there).

Under the passenger seat there shouldn´t be too many cables, only the ones related to power seat controls and seat belt buckle...

Hey everyone...I have been given the worst advice from some people, and had no luck on starting my car. This my first 996, it is a salvaged title and was in an accident from the passenger side. The passenger side has all been rebuilt. I never actually worked on one of these before, as I own a older 78 911 sc.

First I checked all the grounds they seem to be all fine, tried bypassing the clutch that didnt work, checked all the fuses there all good, replaced the battery that didnt work, I was given advice and noticed there was a bunch of plugs hanging lose underneath the passenger seat didnt know where they connected to..I thought the DME was missing, I asked a few people they said thats were the DME goes underneath the passenger seat (BULL**** it doesnt go there at ALL)..spend $500 on an dme off of ebay...only to realize the car already had a DME...its behind the passenger rear seat..wasted my money and time.

When I put the key in and try to start the car I hear the carborater clicking it wants to turn over but doesnt ignite. The wires that were under the seat..guess what they hook up somewhere a long the passenger side door pannel where that wire hooks up to give power to the dme..so I hooked that up...still no engine starting. When it was hit from the passenger side the people who rebuilt it left that wire loose. When I try to start the car manually the engine tries to turn over but doesnt ignite either..I can smell gas...The car has been sitting for almost 5 years.

I do not have a remote control alarm , somebody said maybe it could be the key not programmed properly as I have a wallet key. I dont know if it could be the ignition switch, or ignition relay (where is that by the way) or starter relays.

Im so lost guys...any advice/help would be so great... Oh the steering wheel airbag is deployed..could this be a potential issue...I dont think so?