smartrepair

How much have you paid for the DME reprograming?

Can you recommend any companies?

Kare

Hi.

If you are in Madrid I think the best thing you can do is going to "Balta". He is the best expert in Porsche. He is a particular mechanic with the best service.

Thanks - I am in Madrid. Do you have the address/contact details for Balta?

Hi. What kind of dent do you have?

I know one guy who might know one dent guy. His cell phone is 660-423 578. He is based in Las Rozas.

Regards y saludos

Kare

Just read an artical in a UK Porsche magazine ( I left it on my boat so I can't say which one specifically ) about a business in UK called autofarm. They rebuild Boxster and 996 motors and one of the comments was how few special tools are required. This company even bores outs and replaces cracked cylinders in a process they are pioneering. They are too far away for me but maybe you might be able to get parts from them? They also offer enlarged bore cylinders and pistons for boxster motors.

Also I read another article that said the 3.4 intake manifolds are too tall to fit into the boxster. The person doing the retro fit ended up lowering the whole engine/tranny assy mounts to accomodate the manifolds. This worked OK but gave him reduced ground clearance in a vulnerable spot.

Eric

I found the Autofarm web page some time ago. Looks like the parts are not a problem, there are quite a few companies who can sell them.

But as I´m located in Tenerife, and the local machine shops don´t have the specifications to check the crankshaft, valve clearances etc. etc.

Does anybody has these values????

Here a rebuilt engine from Porsche costs eur 13000 (about $ 16250) so I´m looking for alternative routes.

The 3.4 installation is not a problem either, I downloaded the instructions from this site, and I think it wont´t be too complicated.

Has anybody any experience in doing a complete overhaul to a 3.4 996 (1998) engine?

Is it a thing a "normal" guy can do, without too much experience on it?

I have the Porsche workshop manual, but I´m wondering is it so easy in the end.

I bought a used engine, without guarantee, and it has about 90.000 miles on it. I´m going to install it in my 98 boxter...

The problem is the Porsche manual I have does not include the crankshaft, rod bearing etc. specs, only torque values.

Thanks

Kare, Spain

It is worth some bucks to be a Contributing Member. Trust me, you'll thank your self! :renntech:

Ditto that. Loren puts together (along with the 'family' here) some of the most useful info for us.

Did it last night!

I found the TSBs on "Online Docs menu", but it´s not possible to open them. Is there any way to read them, or are they copyright protected, or....?

Regards

Kare

The '99 996 and boxster used the same DME just programmed differently.

If you use your DME you will need to have it configured for the 996 engine. Pretty standard, remove it and ship it to someone to do this.

If you use the 996 DME you will have to have it matched to the driveblock computer in your car or it won't function. I am guessing this is a worldwide feature of the cars and not a north america specific thing. I think this can be done with a PST2. If the cars in Spain don't have driveblock then you could just swap in a non egas 3.4L DME.

Todd

Todd

My 98 Boxter is 98 US model, so it will have the driveblock.

How much are you paying for the reprogramming? Of course I could send the DME to the States...

My 3.4 conversion project goes very slowly forward, I already have the engine block. Still searching for the intake manifold.

Does the 996 standard ECU (from year 1999) fit to my 1998 2.5 manual Boxter? In Spain I haven´t found anybody to reprogram the ECU, and found this unit which is for sale...

Thanks

Kare

Hi

My fuel gauge is not showing the correct amount (when I fill the tank, the gauge shows only 3/4 full).

Are the any process to correct this? After the swap was made the gauge worked well, don´t know what happened....

Kare

Hi everybody

I haven´t solved yet the oil burning problem. My 98 2.5 manual Boxter still smokes, although I changed the oil separator. We measured the compression in all cylinders and 5 of them had around 145-150psi, and cylinder 4 had only 135.

Underneath there are some oil coming out around the cylinderhead at cylinder 4 (between the head and valve cover. Also there was oil at the exhaust collector at cyl. 4). The spark plug was a bit oily as well. The rest of the cylinders look fine.

What can it be? A valve related problem?

Here in the Canary Islands nobody knows (!) about the leak-down test suggested in this forum, so I cannot do it.

The local Porsche dealership is moving into another installations and are not attending clients for the next two months....

When I start the car, a lot of blue smoke comes out. When I go to drive to the highway, the smoke disappears. But after the cars stands still for some hours the smoke comes back...

Thnaks

Kare, Spain

I bought the engine block. Now found cheap Boxter S (3.2) intake. Does it fit????

The engine block is without any intake, throttlebody etc.

Plese advise quickly, I have to make desicions..........

kare

Hi everybody

I´ve been trying to find an 3.4 engine. Now I found pretty cheap one, but it´s not complete, there´s no air intake/throttlebody assembly.

I suppose I cannot use even a part of my 1998 Boxter 2.5 assembly? I was looking at the other posts and the 3.4 looks different... as I´ve undestood the exhaust side will fit, although not ideal.

What about the cooling system of the engine: as it´s bigger souns logical that additional cooling is required. How have you solved that?

What experience do you have with the swap in general? Any problems? And the positive experiences???

Thanks

Kare, Spaijn

HI guys

Here´s the RUF´s web page. Yes, it´s the german one, but there are some articles where you can get some ideas of the prices.

http://www.ruf-automobile.de/english/index1.htm

Regards

Kare

UUps, the link is not direct, you have to go to the "refinements" to see the two RUF boxters.

Kare

HI guys

Here´s the RUF´s web page. Yes, it´s the german one, but there are some articles where you can get some ideas of the prices.

http://www.ruf-automobile.de/english/index1.htm

Regards

Kare

I have a hacksaw and grinder. Will travel....

This is a picture from 2 years ago of what I thought 986 owners should do to duplicate the 550 special edition "short shift.". But you cannot remove the shift lever like in this picture for the modification or you will not be able to put it back into the shift tower.

You are welcome to come over..to Spain! The food and wine are excellent.... and there are some interesting Porsches around!

So the shifter I have to take out the whole assemply (with tower) to cut and shape it?

Other thing: there is a bit of slack on the shifter. Are there any specific parts to change, or is it just adjustement problem? The slack is in both shift and selection direction. When I accelerate a lot, shifting from 1st to 2 nd the gear doesn´t enter perfectly (the clutch makes a noise). It only happens when there is much revolutions (about 5000) and between 1st and 2nd.

Kare

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2833

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=1418&hl=

The 2004 special edition had a normal type shift that was 1" shorter.

Thanks, I´m going to have a try....

BTW I did a search, but couldn´t find those topics you posted. Incorrect keywords...

Hi.

What is the difference between the short shifter kits and the original stick? The travel is shorter, but how is it acheived?

I was wondering to cut the original shifter just 1" shorter (I don´t like the looks of the original one, it looks too long).

Is it a crazy idea? I did a similar thing many years ago for my Pontiac Fiero...

Thanks

Kare

Did you hook up the oil pressure gauge yet, or are you waiting for the 3.4? If so, you might want to tell people how you did it.

If the outside temp display worked then that is because it had already been turned on in the 996 cluster.

The 2.5 guy with 5 speed manual who put in a 996 tip cluster never mentioned a flashing gear indicator light. In fact he wanted the tip gear indicator lights on the 996 tip cluster to indicate what gears he was in on his 5 speed manual.

I did nothing with il pressure gauge - waiting for the 3.4 swap.

When I put the 986 board in the 996 cluster I had the same issue - the voltmeter did not work. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=304&st=20

I did not drive the car with it this way to see if the digital and analog speed displays matched. There was no reason for further testing since the purpose was to have the voltmeter and oil pressure gauges.

As you said, the boards must be different.

Finally did the swap: very easy and a positive surprise, the outside temperature was working as well (no need to visit the Porsche dealer).

The cluster I bought was from a tiptronic (mine is manual), so I have the 4th geat flashing continuously. But everything else works fine.

I simply cut off some plastic in my original trim going around the cluster to fit the two additional gauges.

The next step is 3.4 conversion.....

The 996 transmission turns is a different direction due to the rear engine.

Well, at least I would have the Guiness Record of the fastest vehicle on planet going...backwards!

Hi

Trying to find a good 3.4 engine for my swap project.

I found a nicely priced one, with 6-speed transmission included, and 996 computer, year 2000.

Can I also fit the transmission in my 1998 standard 2.5 Boxter?

Does the computer work with the rest of the components of my car? On other posts the original computer is reprogrammed and the original wiring harness is used.

Many thanks

Kare

Nope im looking to paint the platic parts around the console ect

Also if anyone has any info on leather die that would be great also thanks

Hi I´m on a leather repair business. The SEM Sure Coat is the best dye you can buy.

Just clean the leather well before applying the paint (with leather cleaning product, or acetone). This is very important.

Kare, Spain

Drain a quart of oil from the sump. Look at it. Normal? Abnormal? Put oil back in from the top into the tank. Report back and describe the condition of the oil. Clean look like oil? look like milk?.

Took the oil "sample". Everything looks normal, the oil is like new (it has about 3500 miles on it now).

When I start the engine, it takes about 3 minutes until the BLUE SMOKE comes out. There´s a lot of smoke until the engine reaches the normal operating temperature, then much less (but more than normal).

The funny thing is there´s not the normal/typical initial smoke coming out at starting.

What you think?

It would have been nice if you told us everything to start with...

If you have a lot of smoke then oil (and/or coolant) is burning and you are going to get lots of O2 sensor codes (which you are).

You need to determine and correct the cause of the smoke. Oil smoke smells like oil and coolant smoke smells sweet.

or... perhaps the oil seperator was not installed properly and has slipped off?

I agree my description was not enough. Sorry for that! This forum has solved me so many problems before (without asking a question, just seraching the previous posts). Many thanks for all members!

There is more and more white smoke getting out. I checked the oil separator, and at least I could not locate any oil leaks and looks like the installation is OK. One thing: the mechanic used the old top tube going from the separator to the air intake. He said that he heated the tube a bit and it slipped into it´s place. There are no visible dents or obstuctions in this tube, so I don´t think this is the cause, but..?

The engine burns a lot of oil ( 1 liter per 1000 kilometers), and I noticed that the coolant level has gone down as well. I have not noticed that the engine has overheated.

Are symptons for burnt head gasket, or ..?

Many thanks

Kare

Uh, my problems with my 98 Boxter 2.5 won´t end...

The original problem was a huge amount of white smoke coming out, not exactly after the start, but it comes after few minutes.

I changed the oil separator, as it was the first suspect, but it didn´t solve the problem.

What can it be?

I´ve had also the CEL light on, the first time I took the codes out it gave me the following:

0410, 1121, 1147.

I cleared them and drove the car for a while. The CEL light was on again, now showing 0410, 1147, 1411.

I understand nothing as many codes are not Porsche or other standard specifioc at all...

The engine burns a lot of oil. But as said it cannot be the oil separator, so what can I do/ expect????

Thanks

Kare, Spain

Another problem: sometimes the engine begins to knock (here in Spain we have 95 oct fuel, my car is US model). It goes away, if I go to highway and drive a while. I suppose there is a problem with vario-cam. What is the part I have to check????