mihaipopa

Hi 4CN Air,

just came across your thread. I have the same issue (I think). Do you have any of the ride height connectors left? I have a 04 cayenne s. Thank you 

mick

Are all tires the same size? Have you checked for variance in pressure and thread depth?

A faulty angle steering sensor would most likely throw a code.

Worn or non-matching tires would be my first guess

I would check the coolant reservoir, if you still have the original. It's usually the next thing to go, after the pipes. It develops small fissures around the bottom seams that let coolant leak slowly when pressuriezed, hence the lack of evidence on the garage floor.

You're very welcome, glad I could help.

Grab the plastic hook and push it all the way down, it is attached to a spring and you will hear a click when it gets to the open position.

If it doesn't budge, try again but first pull the door handle and hold it in the open position, then press the tab down.

That way you will be able to close your door.

Next, spray some graphite lube down the lock vent and push the hook down, close door, open door, repeat. That should take care of any moisture that might be trapped in there and that usually cause this sort of problems. Wd40 works too, but it's messy and will collect dirt.

If that doesn't do it, it's the door latch.

$600-700 at the shop.

Around $170 for the part and not too bad DIY, just lots of stuff to remove.

Good luck!

A couple of years ago, I was driving from Miami back to NY, on a Friday afternoon when the front differential let go, about 100 mi north of Miami. Had no clue what had happened, I just had a sudden loss of drive/power combined with a massive vibration coming from the front of the car. Crawled to the first exit, was lucky to run into a truck repair and collision sort of shop, had this super nice guy take a look at it, and he's like, it's the differential. Out in the boonies, at 4pm on a Friday, with kids, dogs, luggage in the car, I started calling shops around, through my insurance, google, etc., no one would touch it. Running out of time, with the weekend nearing in, I finally called Porsche Melbourne. I held it as a last resort, just dreaded going thru a dealer again. However, I have to say that that was one of the best experiences I've ever had when dealing with a repair shop. This guy Andy, the service manager, actually waited for me, way past closing hours, booked my truck in, offered us dinner in the dealership's kitchenette, provided us access to their computers to book the flight back, had one of his colleagues drive us to the airport, and kept emailing/txting me every other day about the progress of the repairs.

I ended up paying about 3K for the differential replacement, and since I had the car in I asked them to refinish the wheels, and they did a superb job for only $250 for all four, which came as a shock to me, since any dealer on Long Island charges at least $150 per wheel.

Anyway, maybe that's just a Southern thing, and I was just easily impressed, but I have to say I never received that sort of treatment in the NY area, especially on an old, out of warranty Cayenne. Took in a Mustang GT, Audi TT, MB E430, Jetta, GTI, Nissan Sentra, all under warranty, and every single time it just sucked.

So that was my one time experience with Porsche Melbourne, and it felt like night and day compared to what we get up here, not only in terms of pricing, but also courtesy and openness.

good luck!    

Engine.  Mounts.   :king:

:thumbup:

That is it. The latest part number for transfer case fluid is 000 043 301 36.

The transfer case in all AT 955 and 957's S, GTS, Turbo and Turbo S (both 4.5 and 4.8) is #95534104055.

If you search porsche's parts catalog you will find that the ATF fluid is listed at pos.27 as part# 000 043 300 36. That part, however has changed to 000 043 301 36.

Same for the two plugs, listed at pos. 20 as part# 955 301 115 00, have since changed to 955 301 115 01.

I bought this last summer from ecs, for about $48. Haven't changed it yet.

It's part # 00004330136.

And two plugs (part# 95530111501).

:) brilliant, alev8.

sounds like an sos for engine mounts.

and i do think you're right.. nothing has worked so far

what i've noticed so far: the vibration is diminished when:

- warm weather (winter vs summer, morning vs afternoon)

- warm engine vs cold engine (regardless of climate)

-no AC/Heat on

also, no vibration when in Neutral, or when slowly crawling to a stop

Hi guys,

Just wanted to report back. I changed the coolant temp sensor about ten days ago and monitored everything closely. Car's been driven daily, mixed city/highway.

All the symptoms are gone and the gauge works well, settling at 180º. Code P3081 never returned. The engine warms up evenly. No coolant leaks observed; coolant level in reservoir at constant level.

I changed the sensor without removing the manifold, and although it's a bit difficult due to lack of space and visibility, it can be done with a bunch of extensions and sockets. I actually put together a diy, hope it comes in handy for the next person.

Thanks again for all your help.

Cayenne V8 coolant temp sensor.pdf

Thats what I thought too. I just don't get it..Car's been parked all this time, coolant level hasn't changed, there are no leaks, no smells, no codes, all the symptoms just suddenly gone. I'd normally be happy with not having to fix things, but this just seems odd, and I have a feeling that it's not really over. Plus, reading all the horror stories of scored cilinders especially in cold climates caused by compromised cooling systems, I'm reluctant to even start it up.

Puzzled here..I guess I'll go with changing that sensor first.

Thanks for reading, any input will be highly appreciated.

A bit of an update: so yesterday I received my new coolant sensor from ecs (promptly as always, thanks ecs!) and today I went ahead to check the water pump per wvicary's instruction (thank you for the tip) and it seems like the pump works just fine. However, after I put the cap back on the reservoir I left the engine running and what I noticed was that the cooling fans on the radiator stopped making that engine jet noise, and the engine felt warm. On top of that, the coolant indicator on the dashboard slowly went to the 180 mark, where it settled.

The only variable that has changed since last week would be the outside temperature.. Today, it was around 40, so above freezing point. Everything else on the car stayed the same.

Now, does outdoors temperature affect the coolant sensor?

I mean I will get it replaced anyway, just curious here.

Thanks guys, I'll report back.

Right on, JFP, really useful little tool. I actually bought one, well afterwards :), and tried it on a spring, makes the job way easier 

You might have a broken spring. I found mine hanging loose from the top hook, behind the rotor, with the bottom part shattered. They come in a kit, and I believe they're the same that vw, audi and even bmw sells. Takes a bit of effort to get it stretched so that it hooks properly at both ends, but it's doable with a pair of fine nosed pliers. Wear safety goggles, lots of tension on that little spring.

there's the sensor (on Pelican a search for 99660641000 actually describes the part: Engine Coolant/Oil Temperature Sensor (includes sealing ring)

Thanks wvicary,

will check the water pump when I get home. As for the sensor, I ordered it from ecs, it's part 99660641000, and I hope that is the latest version. In the pictures it looks like the o-ring is included and the retaining clip would be the plastic part on the left..?

This morning I got heat in the cabin within ~5 minutes of drving; the dashboard coolant gauge stayed at zero, and the front fans made the same jet noise. No leaks, engine definitely felt cold at touch. 

Should I hold onto ordering a new thermostat then? I dread the idea of dealing with all that coolant nonsense again, especially at 20 degrees. 

Thanks again for your input

Thanks pkscheldt,

Would it be a terrible idea to drive it that way, till I get to fix it? I know a closed thermostat is out of question, but an open one?

Hello everybody,
Just a quick question regarding my 04CS. Been really freezing for the past couple of weeks, and the truck have developed some heating issues. It started about ten days ago with the heat not working until after being driven for, I don't know about 30 miles. Same symptom once or twice, always in cold mornings. Today, it happened again, but on top of that, the coolant gauge on the dashboard never moved from the 100 baseline. The engine also felt cold at touch, the warmest part was the coolant reservoir. I turned it on and noticed a strong air flow blowing from both the front of the engine, from the radiator fan area under the hood, and from the air vents on the bumper. I also pulled code p3081.
Coolant pipes have been done a couple years ago, coolant tank replaced last year. I had refreshed the coolant in the summer also, uview vacuumed, pressure tested, refilled w genuine stuff. No coolant leaks/smell as of today.
I'm about to order a coolant temperature sensor (part# 99660641000)
What do you guys think?

Safe to drive?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

ps just noticed that the thread title says p0381..sorry, I meant p3081

It happened to me a couple of times also, always in the winter when the temperatures dropped below freezing point. I think that whatever water drips down the door frame and find its way into the locks ends up causing all these issues. I've used graphite lubricant (I highly recommend wurth) with great success; a few applications inside the locks followed by closing/reopening the doors fixed it. I have tried wd40 also, and it did work, but I've learned since that it is not recommended since it attracts dirt, hence the graphite choice.

Another solution is to use a blow drier and try to get all the moisture repelled.

Once, it went away by itself, as the weather warmed up.

So, in my opinion I wouldn't get too worried, it's most likely a result of freezing temperatures and moisture messing with the locks.

Unless the lock is damaged of course. I had to change mine last year cause the plastic hook would not fold over and every time I tried to close the door it would just bounce right back. Id have to manually pull that little black plastic pin in and push it down every time I had to close the door. Pretty intensive job for a simple lock, as I had to remove not only the door panels but also the metal card underneath, all sorts of rivets and whatnot, but I doubt that's the issue here.

Good luck

wurth HHS-k is really good. I thinl it's being sold under a different name these days, but you should be able to find it on their website. wd40 for emergencies.

Thanks 4x4. No pdcc here, all buttons black.