mihaipopa

Is the pdcc turbo exclusive? I didn't see any mentioning of it in the manuals for S. thanks

Thanks, Loren.

Any idea what a reasonable price would be for that sort of job?

Just wondering if anyone had success with diy party fog machines, cigars, etc.?

Thanks!

Anyone know of a easy (cheap) way to test smoke the vacuum system?

If I remember correctly I used a whole jug of undiluted coolant (I believe it's 3.8 liters). Mixed it with equal parts distilled water, so total I'd say around 8 liters of solution.

If you use the airlift system just make sure that you place your vessel w mixed solution at the same level with the coolant reservoir and immerse the suction hose all the way to the bottom of the vessel; keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't twist around and allows air to be sucked in, thus defeating the whole purpose of vacuum filling.

I'd say a 3.8 liter undilluted coolant jug is sufficient but if you wanna be on the safe side maybe have another liter available if you notice the airlift getting close to running out of liquid. Just close the vacuum, mix the extra coolant w equal water, add it to the vessel and resume the filling.

...and one final thought, if you decide to double check the system once filled with new coolant, by using a pressure tester, you'll need an adapter that screws on top of the coolant reservoir. I found this AST FZ41 to be pretty good for the job.

...and as far as the air compressor, I checked the instructions and it seems that 90psi/16 bar is the minimum required. 

1/4" airline nipple

Hi WhisperBlade, here's the adapter I was talking about. Also found the receipt, it was (is?) item# 15306 at lowe's. Hope this helps.

To be honest I only used the one in the trunk just once, for a punctured tire (if I remember correctly the manual states that it should be used for that purpose exclusively); for my coolant jobs, both pipes and reservoir I just borrowed a pancake style one, i think they sell at lowes for less than a hundred when on sale. The uview lift and the pressure tester I got on amazon. If you use the uview system you'll need to buy an adapter, it doesn't come with it. It's a couple of bucks at lowes, I'll send you a picture of it when I get home.

Oh, and if you decide to pressurize the system after you fill it up w fresh coolant, you should do 22 psi/ 1.5 bar

The vacuum stops moving up around 22-25"Hg (in the green zone) so that's when I close the valve and wait for a couple minutes. If the system's leak free it should hold right there

Same here, if I go really gentle on the brakes and have a smooth coming to a halt, there is hardly there. Otherwise, there's always this drop in idle for like a second, accompanied by that annoying shudder. First stop in the morning is just the worst

You're very welcome. You could probably get It done without jacking it up as there's plenty clearance especially with the plastic trays off (I just loathe working under cars on jacks). I also use a couple of wood planks and drive the front wheels right on them; that gives me enough room to do most of the work, oil changes and whatnot.

Take care

Does anybody know a diy vacuum leak test procedure for these trucks? I read about using a party fog machine, cigar, etc. just wondering if anyone's fine it successfully?

How much would it cost done professionally?

The vibration when coming to a stop is way more pronounced when engine cold. Would that be indicative of a vacuum leak? If the mounts are the culprits wouldnt it be the same all the time?

Any input would be highly appreciated. Thanks guys.

No need. If equipped w air suspension just raise it I the highest setting and make sure you deactivate it by pushing and holding the switch forward for 5sec until message displayed. Next, remove underbody trays and look for the drain plug on passenger side all the way in the front. You can unscrew the metal bracket thats right below it, for easy access, no need to remove it completely just remove the two screws on passenger side and slide it towards the rear (i used a wire hanger to secure it in that position). Place a bucket under it and using a large flathead screwdriver just unscrew the large plug (it's a big, blue plastic screw) and just move out of the way as coolant will start gushing out.

Screw plug back on and refill your system. I use and highly recommend the uview airlift tool as it makes refilling so much easier and eliminates the risk of air bubbles being trapped in the system. I used I believe a gallon of undilluted coolant mixed 50/50 w distilled water. In the end it's a good idea to pressurize the system at the top of the reservoir but that's like if you wanna be really thorough. That's all. Keep checkig the coolant level in the reservoir (when cold, of course) see if it stays constant. That's all there is. Good luck!

Glad you found it. Really easy replacement. Check this out:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/54-WATER-Coolant_Expansion_Tank_Replacement/54-WATER-Coolant_Expansion_Tank_Replacement.htm

I recommend ecs tuning for replacement part, best prices imo plus fast delivery.

Good luck!

I would first check the coolant reservoir. Mine started leaking at ~95k miles (also no smell, no visible leaks, just that dreaded check coolant level warning every other day). I pressurized the tank and sure enough there was coolant dripping slowly from the seams. Got a new reservoir for under $100 from ecs tuning, fast delivery, quick replacement.

If that's the case, you'll also need more coolant unless you manage to siphon out the one that's already in the tank.

Same here. If put in Neutral, no shudder. Otherwise, just this unpleasant vibration, more pronunciated when engine cold, but otherwise always noticeable. Changed all coils, air filters, reset throttle, no improv. Has anyone fixed it by replacing the motor mounts?

Thanks guys. Mick

CS04, 101k mi

Any updates?

Mine started making this whistle noise, like an air stream was going under the car that was easily heard when cruising down hill, off the gas. It went like that for a while until it started this rattling, grinding sound. I really hope that's not the case for you, as it's pretty costly. I think I paid around $3500 when it left me stranded in the middle of nowhere in central Florida

Front differential? It failed me at 80k miles same simptoms. CS04

Had the same issue after having it in the shop for about a week for a bumper change. When I picked it up it ran really rough, with slight knocking-vibration and a strong exhaust odor.

I pulled over, disconnected-reconnected the throttle adapter, did the reset sequence, filled up with premium shell and let it idle for a few minutes. It ran normal after that.

I would guess the fuel pumps are the culprits as they've never been changed (the carpet's still intact) and its approaching 98k mi. It's an 04 S.

You will only remove some of the coolant in the system via the drain plug. 1 gallon undilluted coolant (go w porsche, pink one) mixed w 1 gallon distilled water is sufficient for the pipes job. Get a coolant tester and check the concentration, after you finish the job and run the new coolant through the system. After it cools off, of course.

Assuming the pipes have already been changed, I would first check the coolant reservoir. Mine started leaking at ~95k miles (also no smell, no visible leaks, just that dreaded check coolant level warning every other day). I pressurized the tank and sure enough there was coolant dripping slowly from the seams. Quick and relatuvely affordable replacement

no problem. A bit more on my issue: it first started flickering after I had an used michelin installed on the rear ( blowout on the highway, middle of nowhere in Florida, it was the only option at the time). After a tire rotation, with the non-matching michelin now on the front, the psm flickering/loss of power went away.

A few months later, it started again, more frequently, almost daily; did another tire rotation, but no fix. However all the tires were shot at this point.

so, I would check the tires, maybe start with the rears.