juankimalo

Thanks Loren

It's better to get the Mk I one.

Following with the car of my friend, there is a problem in the PCM I

We live in Spain and the car was purchased as a second hand car . The owner is spanish, the car was not imported from Germany, but the language of the PCM I suffered a change, and suddenly it began to speak german instead of spanish as it used.

In the Porsche Center they told us that they have to replace the CD Rom unit. In Spain, the custom service of Porsche Centers is always bad. They only want to earn money, and don't think in solving the problems of the customers

do you know any way to change the language ?

Thanks

Hi.

A friend of mine have purchased the Carbon Upper Center Console on ebay.

He has a 996 MK I (2000) and this piece is for MY 02 models.

Is there any way to fit this piece in this car?

He made a mistake purchasing it without thinking about the date of the restyling.

He can't refound it .

It's like this

I don't know if we can make a little change to fit this piece into the car

Can you help us?

Thanks

I can't understand why Porsche don't replace the coolant in the whole life of a water-cooled

If you listen to any mechanic, everybody say that it would be replaced every 2 years at least

One friend of mine has suffered a breakdown because of the dirty coolant

¿what do you think about it?

Thank you Loren

;)

One of my friends had bought a Carrera 3.4 '99 model

It's provided with PCM I but he wants to upgrade it to a PCM II

is it possible? I told him that there is a problem with MOST optical fiber instalation

Am I right?

The future is a HD. Radio music store integrated with USB port.

iPod is wonderful.....

I've just purchased iPod video 30 Gb. It's great!!!

Porsche is a very advanced technological brand, but this issue they are prehistoric

Cassete, CD , DVD... all of them are going to disappear. The future is a HD with USB connection. BUS MOST creates more problems than solutions.

Everyone has an iPod ...

It's a fantastic job !! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

Here there is another posibility in Kenwood:

In southern California the viscosity 30 is very low.

I recomend you this fantastic oil:

Mobil 1 SAE 5W50

Its included in Porsche Approved list and the 50 index is proper to your climatel place

Hi.

If you are in Madrid I think the best thing you can do is going to "Balta". He is the best expert in Porsche. He is a particular mechanic with the best service.

One of the best solutions to get a navi radio CD is to install the new Becker Indianapolis Pro. It's provided with a bluetooth telephone hand free system, and besides can reproduce MP3. It has an ipod connection too. The design is the same as Porsche radios (made by Becker)

Other than the earlier Becker units like the Traffic Pro Highspeed the display of the Indy cannot be inverted to match the Porsche display (dark background, highlighted letters).

Thus it's not really a perfect fit. So Becker saved 20 cents on the display and I'm not upgrading BT telephone and Ipod :-(

Thorsten

May be but this is not a very important stuff to me.

Sorry me , but I don't understand the meaning of touching up the interior.

Do you mean painting the side air vents, and the rear center console?

Greetings folks.

I have found a 99 C2 near my area which has about 44K miles, and I am considering buying it. Carfax says its clean, and on driving it everything looks and drives clean. He has replaced the rotors, pads and tires about 3K miles ago and they seem to be in excellent condition.

Since this is an early 99 model, It has the amber lights. I am considering upgrading the lights to litronic from either ebay or elsewhere (please let me know of any suggestions). I also need to change the rear taillamps to clear (need info on how to go about doing that.)

Please let me know of anything I should be aware of in these models, and look for any tell tell signs before I buy this car.

Another question is about the CD player. It is an old CDR-210, and I was considering to upgrade it to the CDR-23 (If at all this is possible.) If it is not, then I will have to go with some aftermarket solution.

Please help.

Look forward to hearing from you,

Sincerely,

Prad

Before paying it would be interesting to get in a Pre Purchase Inspection , to ensure it's ok.

Respect to the Radio I'd recomend you to buy a Becker. Porsche has this brand as its provider. Have a look with the following model:

Becker Indianapolis Pro

it's the same design as yours, MP3 , iPod connector, Navigation system, and besides, a bluetooth handfree telephone technologie incorporated.

www.becker.de

Just the same colour, thanks.

There is little mod that I'd like to have in this interior:

Carbon side air vents , and center air vents, with the 3 dash trim, in carbon too.

One thing....

Bernie, are you happy with "The Benitles" ???? :clapping: :clapping:

I can see that you live in Liverpool , and Rafa and the other spanish staff had complete a great season.. :jump: :jump:

Can you tell me about which grey is this?

This is a coventional light (non Litronic xenon). ¿Are you sure that your head lamps are like this?

Or, do you think they are like these other?

The circular piece of chrome trim is locate with the red arrow

This fantastic article was translated into spanish by me, and posted in our spanish forum www.pasionporsche.com. Then Scouser (Bernie Goodheart) wrote this about the article:

There is a fix!

Yes incredible as it may seem it can be fixed.

If you have RMS problems DO NOT take to your OPC to fix as they will only use standard Porsche parts. Take it to an independent and ask them to order and fit a 996 GT3 Motorsport seal instead. Ask them to fit it in the crankshaft IN REVERSE!

I know this sounds hard to believe but it works. The GT3 Motorsport seal (not a Porsche standard part) is the same bore size as the 996/997 seal but has two protective flanges at the rear. If fitted in reverse the inner flange forces itself to flip backwards and touch the outer flange which is already forced onto the crank with a spring. This prevents any oil from possibly leaking even if the bore is out of tollerance.

This was done as an experiment on two cars and it works very well. Mine is next when it goes in for its service next month. But both cars had 4 RMS replacements and the motorsport seal fixed the problem. Both cars now running for almost a year after the seal was replaced and no oil leaks.

You should be aware that I have done a lot of research on the RMS problem. One thing is absolutely certain now, a faulty RMS cannot cause engine failure or have anything to do with it. A faulty IMS on the ither hand might indicate intermediate shaft problems which will probably leade to engine failure. However, even if the RMS in the 996 or Boxster actually fell out of the crank (extremely rare) it will not cause engine failure. All that will happen is that oil will leak into the bell housing (but not pour out, only slowly). However the leak will be worse than say a leaking RMS. It may be enough to cause clutch contamination. It is more likely that oil will drip onto your exhaust and cause smoking. This will cause alarm but it is not bad news.

So in summary, a leaking RMS is harmless but it is still not acceptable or desired. In most cases, if the replacement RMS is done correctly (and this is very rare) then it wont leak again.

Cheers

Here you have a copy/paste of how to:

The modern roadster is a masterpiece of beauty, performance, and superior engineering. We own these wonderful machines because they warm our soul. Like you, my blood stirs each time I twist the key and the engine comes to life. Top down, sun on my back, wind in my face, eating up the road... could anything be better?

Unlike coupes or sedans, roadsters and convertibles have special requirements. Where the roadster or convertible’s fully enclosed brethren sport steel and glass, the topless car has canvas and vinyl. This simple difference creates a myriad of challenges for the soft-top owner.

SOFT-TOP MATERIALS

The first thing to understand about your soft-top is its materials. Without this understanding, it's hard to appreciate the maintenance requirements.

Most modern convertibles and roadsters have soft-tops made of a durable polyacrylic/polyester canvas or vinyl. The fabric-like canvas tops feel nice and look great, whereas the vinyl tops are more economical and easier to maintain. Fabric tops have a tight weave, but they breathe. Unlike vinyl tops, a canvas top is not waterproof, it is only water-resistant. To make the canvas top waterproof it must be treated. Without protection, the canvas top is susceptible to leaking and stains. Likewise, vinyl tops need protection from the sun and pollutants. If you're not sure if your top is fabric or vinyl, check with your dealer or the manufacturer.

The rear window on your soft-top is special, too. Many soft-top cars have rear windows made of a clear vinyl. This allows the window to fold. These clear vinyl rear windows will absorb a wide range of gasses and liquids, including water, acids and hydrocarbons. Because it has the ability to absorb foreign materials, it will yellow over time if it is not properly maintained. Most often, the yellowing and discoloration is a result of ultraviolet (UV) light crosslinking. The vinyl is not directly affected by the sun’s UV rays, but what it absorbs can be.

HARMFUL AGENTS

Common cleaning products can be very harmful to your soft-top. Chemicals you should not use on or near your top include: ammonia, bleach, detergent, alcohol and vinegar.

Detergents, bleach and harsh acids will quickly deteriorate canvas, whereas ammonia and alcohol will dry and cloud vinyl. Take my word for it, you don’t want to know what it will cost to replace your soft-top. It makes for a really, really bad day. So please, know the chemicals you use before you apply them to your top.

CLEANING YOUR SOFT-TOP

Your car's soft-top is subjected to the same environmental conditions as the rest of your car. However, where it is easy to see when your car's body is dusty and dirty, it is not always easy to see when your top is dirty, especially if it’s black or navy blue.

Fabric tops, such as the top on this Porsche Boxster, should be washed using a soft brush and a soap that does not contain detergents or conditioners. If the top is properly protected and conditioned, the water will bead.

One of the biggest factors in top wear on canvas tops is dust in the canvas. Dust settles into the weave of the fabric and begins to act like sandpaper. Vinyl tops will also experience premature wear from dirt, but not as readily. In general, you should care for your top each time you wash your car. This does not mean you need to scrub it each time, but a good stiff rinsing is necessary. The following steps are recommended:

1. Wash your soft-top at least once a month (or when it is dusty or dirty) with a non-detergent based auto shampoo. If your top is not dirty, rinse it thoroughly with plenty of cool water. Make sure the shampoo you use does not contain gloss-enhancing oils. If the shampoo contains oils, the top will absorb the oil and become a dust magnet. The Porsche Tequipment Convertible Top Cleaner is an excellent choice for fabric tops.

2. The recommended tool for washing is a soft scrub brush. Do not use a cloth, chenille covered sponge, or lamb's wool mitt, as they will leave lint. If your top has soil marks, stains, or bird droppings, use a small, stiff, natural fiber scrub brush. If you can rub the brush across the back of your hand without scratching your skin, it’s safe to use on your soft-top. Do not use a scrub brush on the vinyl window. It will scratch. Make sure you rinse the top thoroughly with a stiff stream of water to remove all of the shampoo and dirt.

3. On fabric tops, blot dry using waffle weave drying towel. The best method is to use the towel to blot up the water. Don't wipe. Do not use a terrycloth towel or diaper to dry your canvas top, they will leave lint. On vinyl tops, a synthetic chamois or microfiber towel also work well, as do cotton towels. On vinyl windows, quality microfiber towels seem to work best.

SOFT-TOP STAINS

Sooner or later, your top will be inflicted with a stain that will not come out with regular shampoo. Common stains will include bird droppings, tree sap, and grease. For these occasions, you will need to use a stronger cleaner that can penetrate and release the foreign matter.

Your first inclination will be to scrub the stain with the regular shampoo. DON’T! All you will do is spread it around. To remove stains from your canvas or vinyl top, use a fabric cleaner or cleaner made for fabric soft tops. Liberally wet and scrub the stain with cleaner before washing the whole top. Let it soak in, but don’t let it dry. After it has soaked for 3-5 minutes, rinse your top and wash as normal. Rinse the stained area with a stiff stream of water.

WINDOW CLEANING

If your convertible is new, no doubt you have experienced the frustration of polyvinyl fog. Polyvinyl fog is created by the evaporation of plasticizers (an oily hydrocarbon) and other oils. Plasticizers are used in the manufacturing of vinyl to keep it flexible. They are also used in many car care conditioners to rejuvenate vinyl and plastic. Plasticizers remain liquid, and evaporate with the heat of the sun. This off-gassing is worse with new cars, and gradually decreases to a manageable level. Severe off-gassing can also be caused by using too much dressing on your dashboard.

The best tool to clean your convertible’s vinyl window is the synthetic chamois or microfiber detailing towel. Do not use a paper towel, as it can scratch the vinyl. It is best to detail the window (inside and out) after washing the car. Follow these steps:

1. Rinse the chamois or microfiber towel thoroughly with water to ensure it is clean. Wring out most of the water, but leave it damp. If the chamois it too dry, it will not slide across the window. Microfiber towels are not as temperamental.

2. Fold the chamois or microfiber towel into a square.

3. Wipe in one direction across the window. Turn the cloth or chamois, using a clean side with every-other pass.

4. To clean the inside of the rear window, kneel in the passenger seat (roadster) or in the rear seat (convertible). It may take you a few times to learn the best way. The taller you are, the more difficult it will be.

PROTECTING YOUR SOFT-TOP

As mentioned earlier, canvas tops are not waterproof. To make it waterproof and stain resistant, it is necessary to treat it with a protective spray. The only recommended product is RaggTopp.

Although not necessary for waterproofing, vinyl tops also need protection. Using a good vinyl top protectant, you can prevent discoloration damage from road grime, pollution, salt deposits, leaf gum and bird droppings. Make sure you use a vinyl protectant that offers strong UV protection from the sun.

Before spraying your soft-top with protectant, it must be clean and dry. Use a scrub brush and a full .75 ounce dose of top or car shampoo to deep clean the top. Using the canvas top protectant is best done in conjunction with waxing. Your pre-wax cleaner or polish will remove any potential over-spray.

Canvas Top Protectant Instructions

1. Mask completely around your top and vinyl window with newspaper. Once dry, the over-spray from the protectant is difficult to remove from paint, vinyl and glass. Lift the top slightly and slip newspaper between the top and windshield frame. Do the same between the top and side windows. Use masking tape and newspaper to mask the areas where the top and rear panels meet. Use masking tape and newspaper again to completely mask the rear window (do not leave any vinyl showing).

2. Shake the Top Protectant for 30 to 60 seconds.

3. Spray two light coats from about 7 to 9 inches on the whole top. Start in the center on one side and work towards you in even, back and forth sprays, releasing your finger at the end of each pass. Repeat on the other side. Spray a third light coat on the seams.

4. Remove masking materials.

5. Check for over-spray on paint. Remove over-spray with pre-wax cleaner or polish.

Vinyl Top Protectant Instructions

1. Shake the Top Protectant for a few seconds.

2. Do not spray directly to the top. Spray or pour the protectant on a foam applicator or sponge and use the applicator to apply the protectant to your top. Start in the center on one side and work towards you in even, back and forth wipes. Repeat on the other side.

4. Allow the protectant to soak in for 3-5 minutes, then buff dry with a clean microfiber towel or terry cloth detailing towel.

PROTECTING & POLISHING THE REAR WINDOW

Your convertible's vinyl rear window is fairly delicate. It can be easily scratched with little more than normal use or the wrong cleaning tool. Be sure that any rags you use on your rear window are pure cotton. If you use diapers, don’t use it on vinyl. Almost all diapers use polyester thread, which will severely scratch the clear vinyl window.

To protect and beautify your soft-top window, it must be polished. I highly recommend Plexus for regular cleaning and light polishing. Although there are numerous plastic polishes and compounds that work, Plexus is quick and easy. For this reason, you are more likely to use it than a polish that takes a lot of time.

To apply Plexus, use a plush, terrycloth detailing towel or an old cotton tee shirt. Follow these simple directions:

1. Fold your towel into a square.

2. Spray a moderate amount of Plexus on the towel, not directly on the window.

3. Work the Plexus into the clear vinyl, and allow it to dry for 3-5 minutes.

4. Turn the towel to a dry side and buff the window until clear.

5. If small scratches remain, apply a second coat.

If your window has heavy scratches or slight yellowing, use a quality plastic polish.

It is not necessary to use Plexus with every wash, although many people do. If you’re careful with your window, you may find that every other wash, or every third wash is fine. You cannot overuse Plexus. So, don’t be concerned about using it as your everyday cleaner if you drive in a harsh environment.

OTHER TIPS & HINTS

Proper care of your soft-top goes beyond regular maintenance. You can also extend its life and beauty by providing a little extra care when lowering and raising your top.

While the engineers have done a wonderful job designing a top that folds into a small space, canvas and vinyl tops do not always fold flat. It is best to lower the top half way, then smooth the canvas or vinyl to ensure it does not bunch, gather, or buckle.

One of the worst enemies of your soft-top is itself. When lowered, your vinyl window is in contact with itself. As you drive, road vibrations cause the top to rub on itself. Over time, this will begin to leave scratches and other marks on the window. To prevent this, you can use a small piece of fleece or soft cotton (not terrycloth) to protect the window. As you lower your top, after smoothing the wrinkles, lay the fleece across the window.

SUMMARY

Your soft-top can provide many years of beautiful service, but only if you provide it the proper care and handling. Keep your top clean and protect it as needed. When water stops beading on your canvas top, its protection from the sun and water are gone. Vinyl tops need more frequent protection; as often as once a month.

In Spain it's a very common practise.

Manipulate real kms. to have a good image is very frequent in South Europe

If you want to bay a good car try to look for it without any harry up. Be patient, and get a meticolous search.

IMHO the best warranty is to buy your 996 to a German Porsche Zentrum directly.

If you get into the german web, you can find your as you want (colour, equipment..) There are lots of them , and they are provided with Porsche Approved warranty.

Enter here:

http://www.porsche.com/germany/usedcars/n56/

Then click on 'Gebrauchtwagensuche'

If you want to be sure that your Porsche has the real kms, just buy it in a German dealer. Do the managment to import the car according to the Greece Law and you'll never be regretful about it

Perhaps it will cost a bit more than buying in Greece , but it worths the trouble :D

In Spain there are lots of imports dealers, and most of them are not as serious as we'd like

I've only heard the PSE one, and for me it's fantastic

The upper center console with the buttons is a three piece, while the newest is a one piece.

The oldest PCM I has a radio cassette entry and a DIN 1 CD in the lower console above the climate control.

The PCM II has a CD entry in the top . There another significant difference:

PCM II is provided with Bus MOST (optical fiber).

Look at this differences:

PCM I (red square. )

PCM I (cassette / tape entry in the red square. Below, the red line means CD ROM Entry)

PCM II has a cupholder below the air vents. The screen is a 16:9 format with 5,8" and the CD integrated

It was mounted as optional in MY03 cars

I think you need to scrub. Does this product clean without scrubbing? If so, that is a very strong solvent that I have not seen.

As for rust protection, I'd not remove the cosmoline if you drive in snow.

Have a look at

http://www.autoglym.co.uk/sp/frame2.html

"Engine & Machine cleaner" This one works very good too

I like to see my car cleaned

I usually post in a fantastic detailing spanish forum . I learned a lot there, but I'd like to know how you have to act to clean the engine up.

I was watching this pic from Orient Express.

If you put your car on jackstands and after that you spray a product to degreaser the bottom of the car, like this:

'Cillit Bang Universal Degreaser Trigger' (it works very hard on very dirty surfaces)

You must wait for a couple of minutes to make it work, and after that, get your water hose and apply water in all the surface. All the dirty would be erased... But there is a question about the protection of the engine...

Does it need to get protected in any part with a transparent plastic film ? And if so, where?

Thanks, and sorry me because of my bad english

[Link removed by Admin]

Yes. I know it.

In the previous list you have several products made by Castrol . 0W40 and 5W40 are the recomended ones, and there is no 10W60. This is a very high performance oil, and it's suited for BMW M's. I thought it was able to work properly on Porsche engines.... :unsure:

Thanks

10w60? Never heard of such viscosity. It's definitely not approved by Porsche. Syntec is on the approved oil list but not this weight. I'd not do it. Stick with approved oil or weight at very least.

Here you have Castrol Formula RS 10W60.

This is from the Castrol spanish web:

Castrol Fórmula RS 10W-60

Lubricante 100% sintético de la más alta calidad, desarrollado especialmente para motores de automóviles deportivos de elevada potencia. Recomendado para su uso en competición. API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B3/B4, BMW M5, Porsche Approved

As you can see, they say it's Porsche Approved.

we usually call it "the elixir" when we talk about BMW engines.