chamilka

Ahsai

yes you are correct the wipers alos do not work

On ‎9‎/‎19‎/‎2017 at 10:00 AM, judgejon said:

As perhaps a final thought, what are you planning to do?

Replace the tumbler, or the entire lock mechanism?

there are some DIY posts on both replacements, but both are a bit advanced for me to tackle.

good luck on whatever you decide to do.

I had done this in the past, I think it was my 2000 Boxster and the procedures should be same for 996. I think I changed the Steering Column Lock assembly , it was very expensive to rekey the tumbler through Porsche.

On ‎9‎/‎18‎/‎2017 at 10:56 PM, Ahsai said:

Glad you've found your problem. Just curious when your a/c doesn't work, can you try if your wipers work? They get power from the same circuit after the igniti switch.

I will test it tonight and let you know

First of all thank you all for your support and advices. you guys rock!!!  I finallyfigured out what the issue was …it is the ignition lock/tumbler. When I turned the key all the way to the right and start the car, the A/C would not come on, however when the key is turn back about a hair to left then the A/C comes on.

When I researched my issue few weeks ago I saw an old post which referenced A/C issues to the ignition but my ignition is not sticky or loose so I ruled that out. I think it is time to replace the lock assembly but first I have to returned bunch of expensive parts I bought but didn’t end up using J

Thanks all!!! I really appreciate all your help, Ahsai special thanks to you my man!!!

7 minutes ago, Ahsai said:

Does the a/c clutch click and engage at all when you turn on the a/c?

No It does not engage, I don't hear anything. 

WTF is going on? this is very frustrating!!!

I hooked up the gauge to both low and High sides. Not sure if I am reading this right but both low and high sides are around 110 PSI . Please see the attached pic.

The reading remained the same while engine on or off. Does this look right?

Thanks

On ‎9‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 12:19 PM, Ahsai said:

Hence my comment on modulemaster.com but you need to make sure that's your problem first.

If the refrigerant is low, the a/c compressor will NOT come on. There's a pressure switch to detect that. You can hook up an a/c pressure gauge on the low pressure side to check for pressure.

Thanks man, I plan to check the low pressure side today. I have a question: I have heard that the A/C has to be running full blast in order to check the pressure, would I get an accurate reading without the compressor running? Supposed I have low refrigerant, would I be able to fill it while the compressor is off. I have filled refrigerant in the past for other Porsches while the compressor had to be running hence the question.

$850 for the remanufactured unit at Suncost . :) 

thats bunch of cash !! 

Do these units tend to fail - not sending signal to blower and compressor? 

If the freon is low could that shut the Ac compressor from coming on? 

By the way the radiator fans came on after a long drive so at least that's good news :) 

Under A/C Activation, there are six options and two of which include:

• A/C request signal and

• Fresh air Fan

When activating A/C request signal the Snow flake symbol appears on the climate control display.

Activating Fresh Air fan will blow air, since the A/C was on air was cold.

Just to be clear, I get cold air when the ignition is turned on, why would it get cut when the engine is running :)???  

So I ran the diagnostic against the A/C unit.

only error I got was 38: PCMCAN timeout fault which I had for a long time. this is due to installing after market head unit.

1 hour ago, Ahsai said:

BTW, I agree the problem is not in the cooling fans, resistors, and relays because of the Durametric test results.

crap!!

I will have to return the Resistors then, in wane I removed the fan!! that was a pain. let me run some more diagnostics and post results.

I also posted another thread regarding  Series resistor clarification, it looks different form what I expected to see.

I was able to activate both fans to run in stage 1 and 2 using both durametric and by jumping the relays. this confirms the fans are working.

I also bough new et of relays and swap them but no results, which confirms the relays not the issues.

The problem is that the two Radiator Cooling fans do not come on, these fans supposed to come on when either A/C is on (full) or when the temp is high. When I start the engine and turn the A/C to max none of the fans start.

In addition to that the A/C also does not blow air, I confirmed that that the  A/C Blower motor (under the dash) is not the issue. While ignition is on without turning the engine A/C bower motors comes on  blows air.

5 hours ago, Loren said:

If you can get both stage 1 and stage 2 fans speeds then the resistors are likely okay.

so you think the Relays are bad, I wonder why all four went bad?

Update:

1. Fuse - OK

2. Jumped all four Relays - Left & Right cooling Fans came up for both stage 1 and 2 - This confirms that the Fans (motors) themselves are good right?

So I assume either relays or the Resistors bad? 

Is there a way to test the resistor? or does my step #2 confirms the resistors are the problem?

Thanks

I need to replace Fan cooling  relays. Part number is 141-951-253-B. It takes several days to get them shipped hence this question: Is there a generic one I can buy from a local Auto Zone that is compatible? if so what should I be asking for in terms of specs for the relay?

Thanks

Thanks

Both left and right radiator fans do not come on when the engine is running while the A/C is on (full). 

I checked the two fuses C8 & C10 and they both are good.

the relays typical don't go bad right?

I can try to jump relays an see if that do anything but I tend to think the cooling fans are shot?

Car 2003 996 C4S.

Problem:

Today, during a short drive my A/C stopped working.  When the engine is running there is no air coming through as if the fans are not working. However, when the ignition is turned on without starting the cars then cold air comes through.

What could be the problem?

Help!!1 Per my research all 2003-2008 Porsche cayenne V8s have two drain plugs with the exception of 2008 turbo. I have a 2008 GTS but I do not have the second oil drain plug. I looked at a PET diagram that shows two but my GTS does not have a second one.

Please advise, thank you in advanced all!!!

Hi Loren or anybody out there

Vehicle: 2004 Porsche Cayenne S with over 114,000 miles.

Problem: I am getting “PSM Failure - Workshop" message often immediately followed by sluggish gas pedal and ultimately slowing the vehicle to a point it is not moving.

What I have done so far:

1. I replaced a brand new battery yesterday just to be sure. But not result.
   
2. I would clear the codes using Durametric, and after few miles (intermittent) the problem occurs again.
   

Following are the Actual values From Durametric Engine section while pressing and releasing gas pedal:

Throttle-valve potentiometer 1 = 15.23%

Throttle-valve potentiometer 2 = 80.85%

Pedal-travel sensor potentiometer 1 = 14.0%

Pedal-travel sensor potentiometer 2 = 7.03%

Potentiometer 1 voltage emergency air = 0.78V

Potentiometer 1 voltage lower stop = 0.52 V

Potentiometer 2 voltage lower stop = 4.4 V

Throttle-valve angle potentiometer 1

Throttle-valve angle potentiometer 2

Pedal value = 0%

Throttle plate angle load signal = 0%

Throttle angle actual value = 0%

Throttle angle nominal value (adaptation) = 0%

Could you please help me understand what going on and direct me to any usful repair procedures.

I appreciate your help.

Thank you

Chamilka, firfax VA