Karl996

Update - the blowing of air did not solve the problem so I guess there's n choice but to replace the switch and/or resistor.

Anyone no the part numbers for this ?

Thanks in advance

Karl

Gentlemen

Thank you for the responses. I laughed reading the frunk, bonnet, hood comments. The interesting thing is despite the comments we all knew what I was referring to.

@ Loren - thank you as always. I'll give it a try when I get to the factory this afternoon.

@ Wildbilly - thanks for the info/thoughts. That will be next on the list if Loren's suggestion doesn't work.

Related question - does anyone have a part number for the resistor and/or switch ? I've searched but really cannot find anything.

Thanks in advance

Gentlemen

Car in question is a 2002 C2, Manual. Right Hand Drive if that matters.

For some time now the front hood can only be released by using the button on the key fob.

The switch on the side sill does not release at all. The switch for the engine compartment however works fine.

I'm not sure whether its the switch, the actuator release (but it works when using the key fob) or something else.

Would much appreciate some advice on how to go about trouble shooting this and changing the relevant part.

Thanks in advance

Karl

Gentlemen

Thank you for all your responses. I've managed to fix it and thought I would do a DIY if anyone is interested.

Ahsai - many thanks for your suggestions.

I've found the issue. Took the right rear wheel off and had a good look around.

I found the ends of the speed sensor and brake pad wear indicator wires.

What I did not find was the connector which they need to plug into !!!!!! It almost looks like it's been chewed off.

I guess the answer now is to get the ABS harness repair kit and wire it in.

Does anyone know if you need to cut and splice the wires together or does it connect somewhere. I only managed to trace the wire into wheel we'll and it the disappears.

Thanks again

I should also add a point 4.5

4.5 - the brake pad service light did not go out after the pad change

Apologies - I posted this in the 996 Turbo section so reposting in the right section.

Gentlemen

Looking for some help on a part number and/or advise.

Car is a 2002 996 C2 Manual WITHOUT PASM.

There is a bit of history to my question so please be patient.

1. I had the brake pad warning light coming on intermittently for a couple of weeks.

2. It then stayed on permanently and I changed out the all the brake pads.

3. I also gave the wheel arches a really good wash

4. DID not change the brake pad warning indicator wires as they all looked ok. In fact the brake pads still had some life on them.

5. 2 weeks after changing the brake pads I had an ABS Failure warning light which is permanently on.

Ran a Durametric scan and it tells me that P0501 (Porsche Fault Code 120) - Vehicle Speed and 4210 Rear right speed sensor - op. circ./GND/+ short.

In hindsight I should have realised that the intermittent pad warning was probably electrical/electronic.

My questions are as follows:

1. Do you think the 2 issues are related and

2. If I do change the right rear wheel sensor I'm a bit confused about the part number required.

I've researched and come across 996 60640702 which says front without PASM and also 996 60640600 but that says rear and NO mention of PASM.

I'm also going to change out the brake pad warning indicators at the same time.

Many thanks in advance and regards

Karl

Reposted in 996 Carrera section

Loren

Apologies for the very very delayed reply.

As always thanks a million. I researched some more after what you told me and realised there are different shrouds depending on which way the radiator is positioned and which bumper.

In the interim I've cleaned out the radiators, put the bumper back on and installed my ROW M030 suspension.

Not I will have to figure out the correct shroud.

Hi Loren

Thanks for the response.

Not doubting at all what you are saying but I do not have the cutouts per the picture attached.

Apologies but I used the picture from your DIY and put a red rectangle over what I am referring to.

I am really not sure what the effect would be if I did or did not have these cutouts.

Thanks in advance and regards

Karl

Gentlemen

I have a related question to this install.

I have a GT3 RS front bumper. The one with 3 cutouts ABOVE where the centre radiator would fit.

I notice that cars with the centre radiator have outlets cut at the BOTTOM of the bumper. I guess given the angle of the radiator when installed that this is to vent the air out of the bumper enclosure.

My question is this.

Do you think it would work for me if I installed the 3rd radiator and DID NOT cut out the bottom of the bumper.

Car in question is a 2002 996 C2.

Thanks in advance

karl

For 1. Try 996 521 315 01 A03 - The A03 represents the colour. In my case black. This is for the hardback sports seats.

Gentlemen

Some help please.

My drivers door has been randomly refusing to open - from both inside and outside. Very frustrating as it means I gave to climb in from the passenger side each time this happens. Lucky I'm only 5" 6'.

I believe it is the micro switches and I have ordered the part.

Today the door refuses to open at all.

My question is this.

Will I be able to get the door panel off without the door being open ????

I suspect the answer is negative which will be devastating for me.

Help please.

Chuck

You wouldn't by any chance have a part number for just the flap ?

Thanks in advance

So here's the update - which I am not proud of :(

After 2 hours of trying last night (with a friend who is a mechanical engineer) I had to admit defeat and surrender.

There was no way I was going to get the alternator out.

Decided to put everything back together.

At least I have a new drive belt and can say I've worked on the rear of the car for the 1st time :D

Thanks logray.

It's 1 in the morning here so I'll give it a try tomorrow night after work.

Will update.......

Please someone help !!!

Trying to get the alternator out and I'm stuck.

I cannot seem to rotate it clockwise enough for the left bolt hole to clear.

The top of the alternator hits the underside of the inlet runner.

I'm wondering if there is something I need to do which is not mentioned in the tutorial.

It's a 2002 3.6 C2 manual. Right hand drive.

Many many thanks in advance

I would unplug the tilt sensor and alarm siren. At least it would take those items out of the equation. On UK cars with the siren and tilt sensor, you have to switch the ignition to position 1 on the key, before disconnecting the battery. This stops the siren from sounding when you disconnect. It may be worth doing this when unplugging the siren and/or tilt sensor.

Richard

Thanks for this. Are you saying that any time you disconnect the battery you need to do this. Even if the car is unlocked ?

Also if I do this to eliminate the tilt sensor won't the alarm system not activate properly when I do alarm ?

Regards

Karl

A quick update. Didn't get as much done as I would have liked this weekend.

I have ascertained that I do have a tilt sensor and it does not appear to be water logged.

I've decided to pursue the line of reasoning in Logray's Strange Low Voltage Problems post. My problems and observations appear to be identical and I feel there is no point pursuing the random alarms until I am confident the electrical/charge system etc is functioning 100%.

Crazy? maybe

Not really! A low battery can cause all sorts of untold strangeness on any car.

To eliminate this possibility remove the battery and take it to a qualitfied auto parts store and they can test it for free. Replacement costs of a battery are in the $75-100 range, so in that case, my opinion is that your sanity is more important than $100, if the battery is suspect.

Logray - Thanks for the input. Battery and tilt sensor (if I have one) will be next on my list. Interestingly the voltage reading whilst running with the aircon is 12.8 to 12.9V.

to Karl996

When you say no codes registered do you mean fault codes? If so I think this means that the control module is functioning correctly. However, whatever is triggering the alarm should be stored in the Event memory which stores the 10 most recent inputs to trigger the alarm. Can you retrieve this log with your Durametric software?

re undervoltage theory: apparently this only triggers the alarm at 8.5 volts so if this is true the battery needs to be toast. However I may get a new battery anyway & put the old one in the boat

BTW - did you know you can get a complete shop manual CD on ebay for cheap? Probably some copyright issues so don't take this as a recommendation

Ross - No fault codes registered in Durametric. I guess the next step is battery/alternator as mentioned above. Too bad I dont have a boat to put the old one in !!

I have the workshop manuals in pdf. Think i searched somewhere and managed to download them.

By the way, apologies for hijacking your thread. Just thought since we were facing similar problems I would add on to it. Hope you don't mind.

This might sound stupid, given how much effort you've put in, but have you checked tyre pressure.

When I changed my tyres the shop put the rears to 36. When I checked them they were in the low 30s. Set them at 40psi for now and the rumble is so much better.

Even the wife noticed it.

I think I am now going to beat my head on the wall.

After having all the codes cleared, the alarm has gone off 3 times when I lock it the correct way with NO codes registered.

I'm at a loss as to what to do.

I did notice that when a neighbour alarms their car my alarm goes off a couple of seconds later. This happened once. Coincidence ??

I'm thinking:

1. Check to see if my siren has a battery (ROW car)

2. Lurk in the carpark to see if it is my neighbours car

3. Give up

Please help if you can think of any other suggestions.

Ross - sorry to hear about the bumper. Very painful I know. I was managed to get a dent out from a bumper by pouring hot water on it and pressing it out. Or try a heat gun but make sure you don't melt the top coat or paint.

Don't forget the build-in battery in the siren, when the battery is defective, there will be no error code generated.

If the battery was low would it cause the alarm to go off randomly ?? And any pictures on where this battery can be found.

Thanks in advance

Ross

We'll have a virtual beer when we get this fixed !!

Re Durametric - yes I had to many events recorded to even know where to start. HEnce the clearing of all codes and a reassessment.

On the locking the car without activating the alarm try this. Press the button on the remote once (this should lock and on my car the lights flash twice) wait for the lights to finish flashing and then press once to unlock (Again on my car the lights flash once and the interior light comes on). Now wait. After about 20secs the interior light goes off and about another 30 secs later the car self locks. Voila !! No alarm.

There is a lot of documentation on aftermarket stereos being one of the reasons why the alarm does not initiate properly. In summary it's about a contact between the stereo and the frame holding the stereo. Most stereo shops will not insulate this wire causing the alarm module to think that the stereo has been pulled out.

Ross

Welcome from one newbie to another facing the same problems.

I'll share my findings so far although most of it has been covered.

For Durametric download the V6 software. I believe this is the only version which will let you clear alarm codes. You can then see what is triggering the alarm the next time it goes.

When you lock normally, you should have NO beeps at all IF everything is armed properly. A beep means something is not closed, latched etc properly.

Like you I am slowly loosing popularity with the neighbours so my solution is to lock, then unlock and walk away. The car will lock itself in about a minute (think it waits 20secs to make sure and then 30secs later it will lock).

Right now I'm at the stage of having reset everything and awaiting it to trigger again so I can read the codes.

By the way do you have an after market stereo or the stock one ?

Good luck and do post back if you find the problem.

Karl