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phil53chevy
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Everything posted by phil53chevy
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ok, I am going to unplug battery and MAF. I will also take out plugs and check for good measure. I will then switch around coil packs and see if miss follows to bank 2 since all of my misses are on bank 1. I had no missfires at initial fire up only the CAM faults and 2x o2 sensors, which I replaced and then O2 faults went away . Logray, did repalcing the injectors back when you rebuilt solve your problem.? Also read, though running poorly, you had no CELs, just out of wack fuel trims. correct?
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Logray-I read you rebuld article and very other one on earth !! I think dharn had the same injector issue when he upsized cylinders. It was odd that it ran great at fisrt and has slowly starting to run crarpy. dcdrechsel- I was palnning to disconnect the battery to reset dme and see if misses went away. Then i could confirm either injectors were too small or coils, etc.What happens when you dissconnect maf ? what does that do ?
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Logray, I rotated the engine 4 times and notches and cam allocation were right on the money. I drained all fuel and ran what was left in fuel lines in to a jar untill the clean peremium came out. Also cleaned the fuel rail with injectors out before i put together. I did not clean the injectors. the coils "look" old and cracked, and ia mowndering if the new engine heat from satrt up has affected them. The engine was running great at first but now all bank 1missfires and of course the bank 2 the cam codes 1324, 1539. I will dis/reconnect the coils and wires, injectors and check plug torques.
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my mistake inprevious post description . notch is on intake cam. anyway, bank 1 cam cover back on ,torqued and green plugs out on both bank 1 and bank 2. first pic with mirror is bank 2 intake cam at TDC, intake cam notch facing crankcase. second pic, left to right, is exhaust cam bank 2, compression stroke, cam in line with head seam. then i unpinned motor and rotated 360 to bank 1 compression stroke third pic, intake cam notch, bank 1 facing valve cover. fourth pic, exhaust cam bank 1 in line with head seam.
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thanks. I actually used a pick to get the green caps off without tearing them up. I am putting the bank 2 cams back on and will post pics of both bank 1 and bank 2 cam allocations relative to TDC for each compression stroke. exhaust cam in proper orientation for each bank <[ bank 1 cam notch facing valve cover ]< bank 2 cam notch facing crankcase
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Got it, need to check both banks cam timing allocation first ! I will post what I find out. thanks for all the comments/input !
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yes, saw the bent cam timing ring issue with "dharn" a few years back. My IMS was sent to LN and they inserted the new bearing and sent the kit to me. Are you saying it could have slipped after they did their work? wouldn't this show up when I recheck the cam allocation? My hall sensor pickup on intake cam was straight as an arrow and I was sure not to drop my cam on the floor off of the bench when I was reassembling ; )
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Just a thought, I soldered the three broken cam sensor wires on bank 2 as they were orriented on the bank 1 cam sensor side.Now if this wiring is incorrect, by error or whatever, or a buggered solder jod, could this potentially cause my problems ? I was actually surprised at how "not difficult" it was to get to the back a/c bolt. air tools are a wonderful thing !!
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Didn't take the engine out, just bank 2 cover, it bleeds all over the place and wanted to avoid coolant mess.I dont think it is mechanical and not sure if my generic code reader is going to help me. Only way to check all the wiring is to pull it again but when it went together all the wiring "looked" ok. could bank 2 wiring issue cause bank 1 missfires? should I recheck bank 1 allocation by pulling the green cam caps or will I need to pull cover and physically inspect cam allocation ? I was very careful when i put this thing together and really had no problems other than broken bank 1 cam sensor bolt, that i retrieved and put in new bolt.
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See the link above on how to correctly set bank to bank timing, the answer to your question depends on which TDC you are at, bank 1 or bank 2.... interference design. yes, set per the Porsche shop manual after reading aand rereading 20 times AND with lap top in garage as I went along. Perhaps, if a variocam valve is stuck open or closed it might adjust timing, but I would tend to think you should have a variocam error as well since the DME can sense if it has trouble with the cam solenoid/actuator activation/interaction. Did you clean/flush the actuators? no variocam error, flushed with some clean oil and parts cleaner. looks like it has a check valve of some sort. how would you clean.
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checked all the connectors, cam sensor on bank 2 was ok. dissconnected cam sensor and immedialtely it gave me the bank 2 cam sensor fault. so i pulled the valve cover on bank 2 with the previous 1324 and 1539 codes to check cam allocation and was right on. 8 links correct (see attached) ? exhaust cam "notch" on IMS chain side facing crankase and other end mark facing straight up and down and right on the head/cover seam. Could the cylinoid or variocam actuator give me these two faults. I bought the car with intermix and am wondering how much water snot went throught the actuator(s). stumped.
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thanks loren, i'll start with the cam sensor plug.
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yep, did that. these are the codes I am now getting. P0131, O2 sensor , bank 1 sensor 1, low voltage (ordered new O2s) P0157, O2 sensor , bank 2 sensor 2, low voltage (ordered new O2s) P1539, camshaft adjustment bank 2 P1324, timing chain out of position , bank 2 Could actuator be faulty, checked cylinoids before reinstall with 12 volts, they were ok. Timing or cam wires really concern me. I think i will purchase new cam sensor plug for piece of mind, replace the two bad oxygen sensors and recheck codes how did you break in your rebuilt motor ? I have heard putting a load ( i.e. hills) is the best way to seat the rings.
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1999, M92, 3.6 (Land N nickies),carreera cab- Just got the old girl running and am getting P1539-camshaft adjustment bank 2 and p1324 timing chain out of position bank 2, also o2 sensors which i have ordered. I am positive i had the cam chains and dots on cam lined up but the canm sensor wire on the 4-6 (bank2) was broken and had to solder three wires back together.Could the soldering job be interfering with the signal (too much resistence) or is my timing most likely off? I dont have a durametric so I am kind of reaching here.
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right below the a/c compressor on the coolant howsing OR behind the a/c compressor on top of the motor. they both fit each socket but the coolant housing connector is longer to reach the lower part of engine.
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yep, alternator connected, cam(s) and crank sensor. I zip tied it to top of intake so I can get to it. follow the link i am attaching to rennlist and this guy has the same deal. My car is early '99 with a factory replace in 2005. thanks for your help http://forums.rennli...ar-starter.html
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both knock sensors connected, evalp valve above alternator connected, all secondary air connected, all injectors, maf, throttle possition, alt, a/c, ....everything lined up perfectly.,yesterday on Rennlist I saw a post with the exact same wire missing a home. i will find and post link and have asked the poster if he ever resolved his issue. his last post was that he put it back together unconnectd and has been driving with no CEL. I think it is a spare as his picture shows a "plug" in the end of the wire but would love to know what it COULD have connectd to...C4 diiferential, autotrans , its a fairly long wire. thanks
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I am attaching a pre-disassembly pic that shows the "mystery wire" laying peacefully on the top of the engine with no partner. I am at a loss for where it goes. I REALLY want to believe it is an accessory wire or an extra. follow the black wire sheathing from the front of the AOS untill the female plug appears in front of the starter. maybe the dealer will know but am hoping my rentechers are more clever.
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Thansk Loren. right on the money. I had connected the wrong plug to to the valve on secondary air. Now I have ethe extra wire below that is on the left back of motor near AOS. lthe plug wires are red with blue stripe and red with purple stripe. Do you know of a link to a wiring diagram for the 1999,3.4, c2, cabrio, 6 speed?
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Thanks, appreciate your help. LN engineering 3.6, it was a 3.4. see pictures below. it is not the knock sendor wire. that is connected looks like green with grey stripe and red with blue stripe,
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Where does this part go?
phil53chevy replied to valley996's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
where are you in VA, this is my first porsche 911 and first Porcshe rebuild. hoping I can meet up with PCA members and others in the DC area and do some weekend driving ! I am near Fredericksburg -
I reassembling my engine and have located all connections on my 1999, 3.6 L , 6 speed, carrera , cabrio....except one. It is located right behind the alternator and is missing a home. Is this an extra diagnostic plug or an outdated connection for an updated alternator design or am I missing something ? it is the plug in the picture with the red pick blade under it. thanks
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Where does this part go?
phil53chevy replied to valley996's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
look at attached pictures. this is on a 1999, carrera cabrio, six speed I am assembling. your part mounts on front left intake manifold bracket. and the vac hoses go the rear of engine; one connects to the black cannister 'spider" and the other to the flapper on the rear intake runner. good luck
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Have a good friend who is parts manager at BMW dealer. will contact him for lifters. thanks pics of cylinders 1-3
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got it. Ill clean themn and the valve
