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phil53chevy

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Posts posted by phil53chevy

  1. you are preaching to the choir.....after 3.5 engine pulls and various set backs on my first 911 and rebuild, I do feel very confident about the effort. I was confident the bottom end was correct. Flipping is in my plan but finding a broken 996/997 is not as easy as my first purchase. Boxsters are everywhere but not so desirable and the 996 "flat side panels " are, well, not so sexy to the porsche purist. But what fun.. I'm thinking of just building motors on the side and putting them in broken cars. I'm in commercial real estate biz which ...........sucks right now!!

  2. Logray, Dharn55, 987-RDC, dcdrechsel,RFM, txhokie4life, and Ahsai,

    Thank all of you for your help !!

    I thought I was going to have to purchase a pistol and blow my brains out before Obama outlawed them.

    The car runs perfectly !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    First, I had a clogged fuel filter that my wife so easily diagnosed

    second, installed variocam plunger upside down on bank 2.

    third, I did not install lower intake manifold gaskets and had a vacuum leak,

    fourth, my injectors were undersized for a 3.6 and I reused the old o-rings. I replaced withe 3.8's from 987_RDC ( they are beautiful and thank you) and with new o-rings.

    and fourth ....wait for it...........

    I had the bank 1 o2 sensor wires reversed, (pre 02 wire to post cat and post o2 wire to pre cat ) because I bought cheap replacements and they were "white" and I mismarked them. When I went to swap bank1 to bank 2 O2 sensors to work on misfire, I checked orientation of the black and grey O2 wires and they

    were reversed on bank 1. all the voltages are now right on the money dand rove for 40 minutes and no CEL's.

    It was beautiful

    Thanks to all of you, I can rest now momentarily and an my wife can see that my mood is much better !!

    third

  3. Which data is for the post and which for the pre-cats. I am not that familiar with the OBD II terms

    I'm not sure if your generic OBD2 scan tool can read the post-cat O2 sensors, but the readings you got are likely pre-cat sensors.Although, at this point focus on the pre-cat reading of -4V and -6V which is way off.Again, I would not use the ebay version unless it is genuine Bosch. It could be providing the bad reading.For a 99 model year car, I bought my Bosch sensors on Amazon here (they are identical to the Porsche version):Pre cat: $72.24http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-13564-Oxygen-Sensor-Fitment/dp/B000BZG6WAPost cat: $77.82http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-13723-Oxygen-Sensor-Fitment/dp/B000BZG79C

    gonna swap em tonight, check cat and readings and report back. fingers crossed...again

  4. I certainly hope this is it... you certainly have had your fair share of issues to weed out....

    Actuator, gasket, and now an O2 sensor (and I'm pretty certain you would have eventually run into the same issue I did with undersized fuel injectors)...

    Good to look at data then ask questions, then replace... I think that was pointed out early on, otherwise you are just "swapping parts".

    No more $$ to throw parts at it and too afriad to drive with all of the codes. don't want to hurt my new engine.

  5. just a note. I replaced b1 s1 o2 with a new sensor when I rebuilt, but keeps showing it as P0130 and p1128.

    It was $39.00 on ebay. Could I have purchased a defective one?

    I will swap with the stock b2 s1 sensor and see what happens.

    If the $39 one is not Bosch and is not an original sensor throw it in the trash. Do you still have the old one laying around?

    Yes, swapped it with no luck but that was before I installed the missing intake manifold gaskets on !!!

  6. Still some concerns here, the post-cat sensor should vary only slightly and slow with a cat in good condition, if the pre and post sensors show the same variation, the cat is shot.

    It is not recommended to solder the wiring of the sensors, the wiring is part of the outside oxygen compare versus residual oxygen in the exhaust, the solder poisons/affects the readings and will not correct, even more important in broadband probes. Such wiring is also difficult to solder by the nature of the wiring material, as they have taught me.

    Which data is for the post and which for the pre-cats.

    I am not that familiar with the OBD II terms; shrt FT and long FT ????

  7. just a note. I replaced b1 s1 o2 with a new sensor when I rebuilt, but keeps showing it as P0130 and p1128.

    It was $39.00 on ebay. Could I have purchased a defective one?

    I will swap with the stock b2 s1 sensor and see what happens.

    Also, the car had coolant in the exhaust (intermix) when i bought it and it sat for months. I am wondering if i have a clogged, shot cat. I am going to swap o2s first and then take off bank 1 cat and look in there anyway. Hope to find a rats nest, clogged or something obvious.

  8. my writing was sloppy but I initially t

    02 sensors are the same pre/post cat, but the stock parts have different length wires (can't remember if connector is the same). If you want plug and play stick with the right part numbers pre and post, the Bosch equivelant cost about the same. Otherwise you might have some soldering to do. The one that is most important is the pre cat sensor, this is what the ECU uses to adjust ratio. The post one is just monitored to see if the cat is in good health. A good cat should show similar numbers for both pre/post cat.

    Member Mike F has a great write up here: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/oxygensensors

    Is that a typo -41.6? Do you mean -4.16???

    My mistake , it varied between -4 and -6

    Double digit voltage during idle running is way out of spec (read, faulty), and in fact that might be the smoking gun unless there is a serious, read, huge problem getting fuel to bank 1.

    I would think seeing -41.6V O2 and 26.6 LTFT should throw a code for system too lean on most cars. IIRC 25 is the threshold.

    These figures were taken with the engine running correct? Was it warm?

    engine running and warm

    You did reset the ECU after the most recent engine install right?

    yes, ecu reset, battery dissconnected

    Bank 2 looks a little more normal, and slightly rich which makes sense with the 3.8L injectors on a 3.4L map.

    So where is the imbalance? I'm guessing bad data at this point.

    Try swapping the O2 sensors between banks or replace the pre cat sensor on bank 1.

    I will reset ecu, swap pre cat o2s and post new data.

    thanks

  9. No, b1s1 connected but bought a generic O2 .Loren said that the 02 sensors are specific to before and after cat ? this true. ? if so, I bought two of the same. problem ?

    o2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 (v) was between (approx.) -41.6 and .598.

    o2 Bank 2 Sensor 2(v) was between (approx.) -.38 and -.400

    shrtft B1 S1, between -8.6 and 13.3

    shfrt B2 S1 between -0.8 and 1.6

    shrt FT1 % between -22.7 and -25

    LONG FT 1% steady at 26.6

    shrt FT2 % between -0.8 and 1.6

    LONG FT 2% -19.5

  10. Replaced injectors and upper and lower intake gaskets. Reinstalled engine and fired up, idles perfectly but rotten egg smell bank 1( passenger exhaust).

    10 minute ride, back to house, idling and boom ..CEL

    P0300, random misfire

    P0301, cyl 1 misfire

    P0302, cyl 2 misfire

    P0303, cyl3 misfire

    P0134, 02 sensor circuit no activity dtetected. bank 1 sensor 1

    digusted, clear codes, go to bed.

    get up in AM and start car. idles fine go for ride. no CELs, rotten egg smell. 10 minutes later all codes above plus flashing CEL ;

    P1319 misfire emmissiion related

    P1313, cyl. 1 misfire emmission related

    p1314 , cyl 2 misfire emmission related

    P1315, cyl 3 misfire , emmission related.

    P1128 oxygen sensing'

    P01301 o2 sensor circuit, bank 1 sensor 1

    So its a bank 1 problem correct ?

    o2 sensor and maybe bad cat ?

    No clue at this point

    Puntull

  11. got it out in 2 hours. took my time. caught all of the juice. Finally have a system to get it up high enough on jack stands and still be able to take off the two rear front of wheel well palstic so i can get the two suspendion supports out without moving jack stands twice. removed a little more efficiently this time, with buckets and oil pan, etc. please look at attached pic.

    should head to manifold gasket go "hump side" ? up correct ?

    post-78135-0-86960900-1358023286_thumb.j

  12. jackstands, but getting really fast at it. Not too bad. have two floor jacks, one under engine, oune under trans and it comes out and in fairly easily. I just take my time so I dont nick any wires and the such. My biggest complaint is how to get the darn thing out without it bleeding all over the garage floor. it just wants to make a mess everywhere..then absorbant dust, etc..just a mess.

  13. I ordered the intake to head gaskets today from pelican. they said "oh yeah:" they are not in the kit. my bad ".

    987_RDC was kind enough to sell me some used 3.8 injectors at a more than fair price. Doug Harness helped me figure out that I had installed the variocam plunger upside down, Logary pushed me towards the vacuum leak scenario which, with no intake manifold gaskets seems ..well.. obvious now !

    dcdrechsel - thanks for the smoke suggestion - got cheap and used the carb cleaner approach.

    I think by Monday I'll be engine out and in and no more CEl's

    Thanks to all

  14. There are many gaskets not included in that set. Head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, those intake riser gaskets, among a few others are not in that kit. I literally went page by page in PET and recorded every single gasket, oring, and wasker and ordered them. I ended up with some i didn't use but if i found one on the engine I took off and didn't order it, I ordered one and replaced the old. Unfortunate the Porsche kit doesn't include all the gaskets, it would make life so much easier.

    I am ordering the gaskets. Was surprised when I disassembled as there were not any...or so I remember.Usually very particular about not throwing out any old parts untill job completed
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