Uwon

Loren, I’ve had similar experience with my old 911 which I also tracked extensively.

I do change the brake fluid by-annually (and slave bleeding)  last one this spring, with no change in pedal feel nor engagement.  From your comment, are you suggesting that my pedal engagement should be higher than 2.5-3.0 inches from the floor? Do these clutches finally granade without warning or do they gradually make first gear engagement progressively more difficult from a standing start? I just  am unfamiliar as to what I’m likely to expect.

2006 C2S, All highway driving. From past experience with my cars, I know that I am gentle on my clutch/trani. 108,000 miles on original clutch. Pedal travel is still 2.5-3.0 inches from floor to start of engagement. I do not think that pedal effort has increased. Am I on borrowed time? 

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Johan

9 hours ago, TNT79Bronco said:

iI agree that the coils are a prime suspect.  However, I also have to ask the obvious question.  What is the likelihood that multiple coils went bad at exactly the same time?  

Hence my qualification if themissfire happens in damp/rainy weather where deteriorated coil(s) are more likely to show faults. If one is cracked surely one or more will be right behind and H2O will only serve to identify the culprits earlier. 

BTW, I share this from actual experience. Long trip through the U.S. Dry day-no issues; next day, quite humid- started misfire; third day -rain-crawled to the dealer. Multiple cylinder misfires. 

Johan

If you had the misfires in damp/rainy weather then the coils are suspect.

Johan

On 2018-04-07 at 1:23 PM, Loren said:

 

Also, the round ring and ignition switch require a special tool (supplied with the car) to release the ignition switch from the dash.

No special tool supplied with my car. Can you use a straightened out paper clip as in the 996?

johan

1 hour ago, Loren said:

 

This is correct for the 997-1.

Older 9x6 series have the one screw hold-down.

 

Loren, I’m wondering how the key tumbler assembly interacts with the module above. Does the tumbler push a rod into the module for the first click of the key followed by a further turn of the rod (with fingers, presumably) to start the car?

Johan

Are you referring to the control module?

I found this on Pelican and it appears to screw in rather than being held by two mall screws.

johan 

2006 C2S

I’ve unsuccessfully searched the forums for my issue.

About half the time, I turn the ignition key but nothing happens-no dash lights and starter won’t engage (with clutch fully depressed). Happens whether or not the steering wheel is in the locked position. I am able to overcome the issue by pulling out the key, wiggling the steering wheel and re-inserting/turning the ignition switch several times. Is this a DIY lubrication issue, or, does it require a new ignition switch and/or key barrel?

thanks in advance.

Johan

^^^^+1

Common issue.

However, you may also want to consider the following;

1, how many miles on clutch and is the pedal effort getting harder?

2.what kind of driving on clutch? Track, highway, multiple drivers, city, etc.

3, have you recently changed the brake fluid and/or bled the slave cylinder?

4, have you recently checked or changed the trani oil?

5. Is your shifter sloppy? You may need new linkage components.

6. If you have not already done so, search this forum for similar issue. 

Do post your findings 

Cheers

Johan

20 hours ago, cannonman said:

I did my 2001 996 and put up all the instructions here https://sites.google.com/site/996drlhack/.

All passed Canadian muster and I also put up the BS labels for the sunvisors which they never looked at as you may be able to tell from the fact they made no comment on their trilingularity.

Will this hack work on the 2005-06 997 fog lights.

Johan

Google Response Engineering. Yarko is probably your go to guy locally.

Johan

+1

LN Engineering is no doubt one of the best authorities on the subject but you should educate yourself with the different offerings by doing a google search.

This is not rocket science. 

BTW, a failed IMS bearing is not something that is usually preceded by noise or fluid leak. It most often just  granades necessitating a full tear down, and rebuild. 

Johan

Time for me  to plan for the second water pump replacement. I note that there are several choices from Laso @ $188, to Pierburg @ $248 to Porsche @ $403 per Peliccan Parts. Anybody have any experience Laso and Pierburg? 

Johan

judge, my OEM wiper have the Bosch stamp, not Porsche. I looked at the Napa replacement ones also made by Bosch but they do not have the wind scoop that prevents lifting in windy rain conditions at 70 mph. Just thought I should pass this along re the wind scoop.

cheers,

johan

^^would have never guessed that

From the sump plate looks like an early motor. 2.7 is not a good choice for anybody except those in the real know.  Lower front valance/fog lights from a +84 I think, same with rear impact bumperettes, interior appears to be a mishmash from different years. Who knows how the body was reinforced after removal of targa bar which is a structural item.  '74 is pre galvanized body. In the USA or Canada, this car would be classified as marginal at 18,000 usd IMO. Keep your money. Do some more research here and on Pelican Parts 911 general discussion forum. You can do better with a relatively unmolested fully galvanized '78 or later SC 3.0 or later Carrera 3.2. Do your research and get yourself a knowledgeable Porsche mechanic to do your PPI. 

Johan

^^^^^ The PET in the Porsche Classic tab of the Porsche web site is your friend. Covers all years of the 996. The remarks column identifies particular years applicable.

http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/usa/996_USA_KATALOG.pdf

also, Pelican Parts for one will generally specify quantity required of each part.

you will probably need a few more items such as screws/bolts, heat shields, etc.

Take your time if you have it.

Good luck.

Johan

I went thru the same concern as you with my '06 C2S. No spare no TPMS. Picked up a used 16" 996 full size spare pace saver tire and jack on Pelican which fits in the frunk standing up, but, as we do allot of traveling I found that  it ate too much baggage space. Also thought about where I would put the punctured tire/rim in the car if I had to change on the road- a coupe with passenger cannot take a 305x30x19 in the back seat. So I settled for an aftermarket TPMS setup by Orange (Amazon, ebay, etc) for about $140which lasted 5 years. Just replaced the whole system with my last tire refreshment as it turned out to be cheaper than buying separate replacement battery/sensor units. Now I only carry the Porsche aluminum Jack, torque wrench, pump, work gloves, and a plug kit. I figure that in most cases the TPMS will give me enough time to pull over and fix by the side of the road. 

Hope this helps.

cheers,

johan

Jason,

Sorry for your issues. Sounds like a loose connection but other than that I unfortunately cannot offer anything diffinitive. I'll e following with interest as I have an '06 2CS.

Hope that others will chime in who may have a better idea.

Good luck.

Johan

I would say loosen the flex line at BOTH ends so that everything swivels, line up the hard line into the caliper and it should screw in. Then tighten up all connections.

Hope this helps

Johan

Don't know about the whiteson DLR but I have a couple of things to mull. I have an '06 US purchased 997 C2S and the dealer was able to turn on the DLR and tail lights for me with the PIWIS. Depending on the year of yours, It may be applicable to yours.

This may also be of help;

http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/894306-997-led-drl-add-on-not-swap-question.html

Good luck,

Johan

Didn't honestly believe that my original post was going to turn into a "crap on the bean counters" rant. My God, I used to be one of them. :-)

More to the point, I have learned allot particularly from JFP, thank you, and I'm ordering FilterMags for all our cars tonight.

Cheers,

Johan

Thanks for the write-up. Wondered where that tank was. Another mystery solved.

Cheers,

Johan

Several years ago I installed a LN Engineering oil filter adapter in my '06 C2S largely because of the hype created on this and other forums surrounding the IMSB issues. (I also removed the IMS seal and adopted the 5k oil change practice, amongst other things). Notwithstanding, I always wondered how this small canister filter could be better than Porsche's own cartridge version.

So today I had my first chance to use my new sniffy oil filter cutter (amazon.com) on an accumulated collection of used oil filters from the car...

The more oil filters I cut open and examined for metal particles (fortunately none found), the more I questioned the use of a filter with such small filtering area. And, quite frankly, I see little difference in the filter paper material used in the recommended NAPA Gold filter and the Porsche cartridge....

My layman' reasoning concludes that it's easier to push he same amount of oil thru the larger Porsche cartridge filter, and, certainly the filter would be cleaning inch for inch through the same cycle. So, is the oil filter adapter gizmo all hype? Thoughts?

Cheers,

Johan

​

Check coils for cracks. Plugs probably still OK. Clean intake. Change Water pump, AOS, belt, and idler wheels.

Cheers,

Johan