johnsnow

Thanks I have tried cleaning the TB before but I just couldnt remove it following the pedros guide. As a secondary thought is it possible it could just be a worn/old air filter

it does a constant wobble of a couple of millimetres when stopped at lights. If I blip the throttle it stops

At idle my 3.2 05 Boxster S has a slight random wobble (maybe a mm) at 600rpm. It doesnt always happen but say 80% of the time when stopping at lights etc.

Faulty coil pack?

By your serial number the engine was built in 2006.

Thanks does the T mean its a refurb?

Im looking at buying a Box that has had a replacement engine, the engine no. is M96268T62665338

Looking through the forums it suggest the T is a refurb is that correct? Am I right in thinking this a 2005 engine?

Yes, that's the one. Like wvicary, I was just trying to make sense of it, as there seems no logical reason why that fuse would affect the instrument cluster.

I agree with Richard that circuit does not handle the instrument cluster. The only way I see it could affect the cluster is if something attached to it was pulling the whole electrical system down (which could be a clue to why the fuse blew).

In terms of attached device? If so nothing has been attached since ive owned the car either that or the ciggerette connection. Maybe a faulty connection that shorted? Or a penny thats fallen down the console arm and possibly shorted(ing) it?

What was the fuse number you changed?

It was A8 the thats the 12v one in the rear arm rest isnt it? (the one 2 to the left of the cigarette one on the first main row)

I managed to fix it, there was a blown fuse for the 12v power (the one in the arm rest bit) and I removed the ciggerette fuse also. No idea why but cars works perfectly now

johnsnow, the engine to chassis ground cable is located underneath the engine.

Thanks, running the battery with a multimeter it records a steady 12.8v even with heaters etc. on seems something is draining it would a faulty chassis ground cause this?

You can remove them and clean the contact surface but sometimes the fault is within the cable itself. I use a set of jumper/booster cable to provide a substitute ground path from engine to chassis and retest to see what effect it had on the fault.

Great idea I tried this first with the front ground (but had the same result) I then opened the engine bay but I couldnt for the life of me find the engine ground pictured here is there 987 location different?

I would also verify the chassis grounds.

Thanks how would you verify a ground? The cables seem to be attached fine

You will likely need to have your OPC put a PIWIS tester on the car and also re-program the cluster.

out of interest why would the cluster need re-progamming - the cluster seems fine once the car has started (the problem is just a momentary restart lasting a fraction of a second immediately after the engine has started)

Tried 2 new batteries an S3 and S5 Bosh and still having the same problems.

2 out of 3 times when I start the car the instrument cluster effectively resets. It goes dark for a split second then flashes back on with the clock reset.

When it doesnt reset (the 1 out of 3 times) when I start the car the cluster dims massively for a split second while the car tries to start

Any ideas what this could be? Starter Motor? Alternator?

Cheers, so to remove the battery its black terminal off then red terminal off (remove battery and insert new one) then red terminal on then black terminal on? Do I need radio codes for a CD24 on a 987?

I need to replace the battery on my 987 am I right in thinking I need to put the key in the ignition and turn the power on (but not engine) before disconnecting the battery to replace to prevent the alarm going off?

Does it just require brute force?

Ive followed the tutorial on removing the door panel on a 987 (basically removed the 5 torx screws) and im at the stage where you have to pull the panel off. However no matter how hard I pull (using my fingers) it just wont budge.

I notice in this video he uses a putty knife but from what ive read inserting it the way he has would damage the membrane?

Ive tried pulling at the location of the clips but it seems stuck fast anyone any tips or suggestions of what to try?

Hi I only have durametrics software 5 but the first 40 or so rows in the spreadsheet are just sat idling

The Camshaft position 2 deviation is fixed at -2.67 with the actuals (at idle) ranging from 1.55 to -2.63

From what ive read the deviation angle is within tolerance but the actual angle goes as far as -40 is that within expected parameters? I see some misfiring but nothing unusual

Log from a brief 2 min drive below:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApLKsSBArVzHdE5jdXZXNnFpeW5LNlZJQjFvLWxJamc

Clean the throttle body thoroughly to start with, clear the codes, try again and see what it gives is my advice. It is easier to work step by step than to throw everything together. Success.

Thanks - I took your advice Ive decided to do a step a time.

Ive started by clearing the codes and installing a new air filter, the first step along the path. Ill give it a few days to see how it drives (so far the judder has minimised and the car seems smoother). Next Ill clean the throttle body. One thing I did notice when the car was idling I could feel a blowing to the right of the throttle body (red arrow in the pic). Is that normal? It made a distinct sucking sound when blipped which is what I would expect but regular idling I could feel a soft blowing

Im looking to clean my MAF and ive read I should disconnect the battery first. To do this am I right in thinking I just need to disconnect the negative terminal? Is there anything I need to factor in when disconnecting the battery (window positions the hood behind in service mode etc.)?

Durametrics show only 2 errors - not sure if either are relevant

PAS:

8004

Versorgungsspannung Klemme 50

(SC+)

CLUSTER:

9152

Unknown DTC: 37202

Interesting.

The original 996 WSM says 680 RPM +/- 20 (3.4L)

Whereas the original 986 WSM says 740 RPM +/- 40

Also where are you getting the 620 and 1100 RPM from, is that from a code scanner such as Durametric which can read the actual RPM? I wouldn't trust to give exact figures by looking at the needle on the gauge, although it is pretty close.

You guessed correctly - the needle itself. I have bought a Durametric cable so will do some measuring over the weekend its a possibility the MAF could be on its way out as when engine braking it misses rpm's

I guess it would be good to see what the factory idle set points are for the 987 before jumping to conclusions.

I must have spent days trying to track down that information to no avail - any ideas where I could find that information?

The idle points are the same as 9x6 series (same engine) -- 700 RPM +- 40 RPM

is it the same engine in a 987?

I guess it would be good to see what the factory idle set points are for the 987 before jumping to conclusions.

I must have spent days trying to track down that information to no avail - any ideas where I could find that information?