87turbolook911

There are lots of tips in this thread - please read though it...

Thanks for trying Loren.

Called Becker and they were able to provide.

Cheers!

Another lost radio code card :(

Need code for:

It's a cdr 220 cd radio, Model #BE4462 and Serial #X5020516

Thanks in advance Loren!

Try 0033

or

0031

Darn... no workie.... :( any others I should try? How many tries do I get before it goes into wait mode?

Another lost radio code card :(

Need code for:

It's a cdr 220 cd radio, Model #BE4462 and Serial #X5020516

Thanks in advance Loren!

I believe the brass color coupling on the right is leaking. It's leaking approx where the shadow begins. Can that be tightened or easily replaced?

Both the AC and Power Steering high pressure hose are over there (I can't tell which one from the pic).

Follow the leaking hose back to either the compressor or power steering pump to find out.

It's the hose on the right that's leaking. I also noticed the hydraulic reservoir (marked Pentosin) is low.

The leak seems to be where the "hard" line connects to the rubber line. Is this a common problem? What are my options?

Thanks!

Sounds like a power steering leak. Hopefully, an easy fix if it's just the junction of the two lines. You might want to get a can of Pentosin CHF 202 (recently superseded the older CHF 11S) to top up the reservoir until you get the leak fixed.

Thanks on the oil tip. When the engine is on, I can see the leak drip...so it's probably best that fill it up and not drive it until it's fixed, huh? Anyone change one of those connectors before? Special tool required?

Both the AC and Power Steering high pressure hose are over there (I can't tell which one from the pic).

Follow the leaking hose back to either the compressor or power steering pump to find out.

It's the hose on the right that's leaking. I also noticed the hydraulic reservoir (marked Pentosin) is low.

The leak seems to be where the "hard" line connects to the rubber line. Is this a common problem? What are my options?

Thanks!

Sounds like a power steering leak. Hopefully, an easy fix if it's just the junction of the two lines. You might want to get a can of Pentosin CHF 202 (recently superseded the older CHF 11S) to top up the reservoir until you get the leak fixed.

Thanks on the oil tip. When the engine is on, I can see the leak drip...so it's probably best that fill it up and not drive it until it's fixed, huh? Anyone change one of those connectors before? Special tool required?

Both the AC and Power Steering high pressure hose are over there (I can't tell which one from the pic).

Follow the leaking hose back to either the compressor or power steering pump to find out.

It's the hose on the right that's leaking. I also noticed the hydraulic reservoir (marked Pentosin) is low.

The leak seems to be where the "hard" line connects to the rubber line. Is this a common problem? What are my options?

Thanks!

Hi all,

Found a leak I'm not sure of what it is. Doesn't smell like oil or coolant. Can you help me ID what these two hoses are?

Seems like the connection there is leaking. Might me due to the real cold weather we've gotten recently. How should I go about fixing?

Thanks!

I did exactly that and love it. Rides just fine for me. It's really subjective so you should ride in someone's car who has done the mod. What's right for me may not be right for you.

The ride does get a bit harsher, but not uncomfortable. Handles just fine and looks great. The H&R's came with my car and a buddy gave me factory shocks with less than 10k miles. Total investment = 0 ....I installed them myself with a help of a buddy.

Good luck!

There have been several discussions in our forums concerning alternate lowering methods, suspension setups, etc. There are always strong opinions (naturally).

I, like many on this site, only drive my 99 C2 on the street and primarily want to lower the car and gain a bit less body roll due to lower center of gravity.

My car has relatively new factory shocks (NOT 030 sport shocks), and, at 20k miles, it would be a shame and a waste to toss them.

Has anyone that has ACTUALLY INSTALLED just the H&R sport springs on an otherwise stock 996 (with factory standard shocks) noticed a difference in ride quality in terms of bounciness, rough ride, jarring ride, less control, less suppleness,etc.

Again, I would love to limit this discussion only to people that have actually done this mod and want to try to keep theory and academic engineering discussions out of it if possible.

It would be great for all of us to be able to cut through the conflicting info and feedback and focus soley on the experience of those individuals that are currently living with this type of setup....

Possibly the fluid from the engine mount. I think they are fluid damped and the fluid looked really clean in your photos.

It was sorta like engine oil, but then again it did have a funky smell to it. Kinda like old rubber.

So I go jack up the back of my car so that I can swap mufflers....I lifted the back end pretty high so that I can have good amount of room to take the mufflers out. All of a sudden I see oil dripping down from this area, a total of a few table spoons:

This bolt is directly below this silver cap thingy:

Here's a close up:

What is that?

So I lowered the car back down....no more oil drips. Started the car...no drips.

Needless to say I didn't proceed with the muffler swap. Too frustrated...

Hoping this leak isn't something major. FWIW my car does not leak anything normally.

Anyone have an idea?

PCA Members - Free Up-Fixin der Porsche Publication Offer

The Porsche Club of America has a limited amount of Up-Fixin der Porsche publications to offer for free (originally priced at $16/volume). Currently, we have sets that are only missing volume VI (a total of 11 volumes are in the series). We will continue to ship partial sets until we run out of stock. This offer is on a first come basis.

If you are not interested in receiving a partial set, please do not order.

Orders must be submitted online at:

https://www.pca.org/members/catalog_o_form_real.asp

When completing the online form, please use one of the three descriptions below: (Note shipping costs)

- Partial Up-Fixin der Porsche Set- Ship to US Address: $25 shipping/set

- Partial Up-Fixin der Porsche Set- Ship to CDN Address: $35 shipping/set

- Partial Up-Fixin der Porsche Set- Ship to International Address: $50 shipping/set

Please allow 2-3 weeks for delivery

To learn more about the Up-Fixin publication, click here:

http://www.pca.org/tech/upfixin_article.html

I picked up my new (to me) 1999 C4 a couple weeks ago now. Other than the wing it has a performance exhaust. Just saying hello & thanks for all of the valuable info I found here prior to my purchase - it was invaluable!

Congrats! Great looking car....But I may be a bit biased :)

Where's the best place to buy Techron?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7399

I have replaced my battery but it seems to die after 5 days or so of being parked.

I just charged it back up, but this time I looked and removed all the "extra" electronics that are on the car from previous owners (Phazer, K-40, some other crap I don't recognize, etc...)

Could there be a LoJack on the car that I'm not aware of or something else taking a draw?

The Amp Meter reads between 13 and 14 volts when the car's running, so I think the alternator is okay...

Thanks in advance!

Scott

UPDATE: Dealer determined it needed a new starter.

Your dealer or auto electrician can perform a cold cranking amperage draw test - to see if the battery is delivering the correct amperage to the starter motor. It could be that your starter is simply in need of repair or replacement. They should also check the alternator charge rate to make sure that current back to the battery is to specification.

A K&N type...I'm going back to stock just in case.

The MAF was deemed bad by the dealer...they say it happens all the time...not neccesarily because of the K&N.

Do you know what kind of air filter was in the airbox? There has been some discussion in this forum about K&N and other oiled filters that over time can cause a fault in the MAF. The fix seems to be to clean the MAF filament with an electronic cleaner spray.

Would be another inexpensive thing to try before shelling out the dough for a new MAF.

Thanks...ordered parts from Phil at Sunset. Nice guy...great service. I'm expecting a nice size box coming my way next week!

I have ordered parts from sunset. Thier pricing and service is good. I have an in dash cup holder that will fit in place of your cassete holder. I bought it for my 2000 996, but didn't realize I needed to have a slot where the cassette holder goes. Mine is filled with a Valentine one. If you want it i will be happy to sell it to you. I paid around 90 bucks for it from sunset and would sell it for that plus frieght. If you want it email me @ SDPJR@msn.com

Last week I replaced the battery because I noticed that the car was "straining" to start.

I purchased a Deka OEM replacement battery.

In the mornings or cold motor it seems to turn over and start fine. Not a strong start, but starts nonetheless.

After driving about an hour to work this morning I stopped for gas. When I got back in to start it, It was almost like it had a low battery. It did start, but not with the strength like in the morning.

The volt meter ion the car shows just about 14 volts.

Is this normal or should I check something out?

Well I cleaned the solenoid valve per your suggestion, and it seems to have taken care of my erratic idle. Not sure if it has helped the hesitation under hard acceleration. I'll test that tomorrow morning.

I also cleaned the throttle body one more time...this time cleaning everything I could reach in the throttle body.

The car had a PPI done before I purchased and they said the MAF needed to be replaced :(

I thought I would try cleaning it before paying my warranty deductible and giving my car up to be fixed for who knows how long....

Thanks Loren for providing the much needed info.

Vu

Well, I usually spray and make sure any deposits are cleaned out. It should move freely when you are done.

You do not need to remove the throttle body to clean the solenoid valve - just remove the valve using the precautions I mentioned.

Did you open the butterfly to clean the carbon build up behind it? If you can do that well on the car then it might be easier to remove the throttle body.

How do you know the MAF is bad? You can disconnect the MAF completely and the car will still run pretty well.

So if I remove the two screws (visible in your picture) the solenoid pulls out? Then just spray and clean out the gummed deposits?

Do I need to remove the throttle body from the car to do this?

This morning I had sprayed the butterfly down with carb cleaner...but not the idle valve....could that have made the situation (idle) worse?

Also is it okay to drive with the MAF asking up the way that it is? Obviously I'm not gasing it hard or racing anyone so no stumble is percieved.

Thanks,

Vu

Have a look here for a pic, description and how to clean.

Yes I also cleaned the throttle body/butterfly with carb cleaner....where's the idle valve solenoid located?

Thanks!

Usually the MAF works or it doesn't. Did you look for carbon buildup in the throttle body and idle valve solenoid?

If those are both clean and it still runs the same then a scan tool (that can read) MAF air flow should tell you if the MAF is questionable.

New '99 c2 owner here...

Over the weekend I noticed when accelerating hard in any gear... once I got to about 5K rpm the car doesn't continue to accelerate smoothly. It sorta stumbles.

So I tonight I pulled the MAF sensor and cleaned it with carb cleaner. The element was a little dirty but not filthy. After letting it dry, I put it back in.

The car seems a bit smoother but the "stumble" is more consistent. Once I pulled into the garage, the idle fluctuated between 500-1100 rpm....almost stalling but didn't.

So is the MAF toast?

I purchased a '99 Black on black 996 this past weekend.

http://images.snapfish.com/34576%3B4723232...%3C676875nu0mrj

Car just needs a bit more TLC to be close to perfect. Can you guys suggest where I can get the best price on the following items?

-Tray/pocket below radio to replace current cassette holder (who listens to tapes anymore???)

-Cigarette lighter or cover for hole in dash

-Backseat release lever (passenger side)

-Carrera Logo for engine lid (use to have a GT3 badge, once removed...a few scratches were revealed underneath. Looking to put another badge on to cover sratches

-Oil filter

-Air Filter

-Black floormats (Driver's side is worn)

-Silver Shift knob and black boot (Current one is a bit scratched)

-Jack pad

-Black OEM mirror Bras

-Cupholders (for the wife's starbucks :biggulp: )

Thanks in advance!!