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Posts posted by tony_986
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I'm at a lost...
Looks like dealer time.
There is a memory control unit, fuse E2.
Not certain what that memory control unit is for. With the battery removed for a couple of months it's hard to say..
Sorry I wasn't much help.
T
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Did you try checking Fuse C3 ?
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Thought this might also help.
It's a scan of the fuse block paper. https://f66b4128-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/mikefocke2/fuzebox01S.jpg
Loren provided the best diagram.
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Nazar:
You didn't state what model and year your car is..
Try this
If your car is not unlock by the remote with in 5 days it disables it. ( to prevent running down the battery)
1. Unlock the drivers door with the key in the door lock.
2. Leave door unopen, press the lock button on the remote. (button 1 lock/unlock)
It should now re-enable the remote
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I don't understand how this could happen. Air is compressible and would lead to a soft pedal or excessive pedal travel but not keep the brake master engaged against it's internal spring pressure.
I agree with you, I couldn't understand why air would cause the brakes to engage and not release. The only thing replaced on the car was the master cylinder.
After releasing the brake fluid pressure and re-bleeding the brakes it never happened again and the brakes worked perfectly afterwards..
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WoW frank, that smoke signal sent you down the road of discovery and fixes..
I have all the repair documents on my car from the PO, and I saw a receipt for a tune up.
Replaced 6 plugs and 5 coils. scratched my head wonder why not replace the 6th coil as well...?
Found a receipt 1 month later, same shop replaced 6 more plugs and the 6th coil. really 6 more plugs a month later..!
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I've had air stuck in the master cylinder between the reservoir intake and plunger.
Caused the brakes once engaged to stay applied..
Took the car out for a test and once the brakes were applied, they stayed engaged.
Re-bleed the brake lines and it corrected the issue.. It never happened again.
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I had my clutch replaced at 87.5K it was just about down to the rivets.
RMS, LN IMS.
They installed a new clutch kit, clutch pilot bearing, and new flywheel bolts. They even replaced the gear oil in the trans.
T
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You still have air in the line.
Seen this before..
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Thanks Ill inquire.
I just had the shop in Pasadena do my RMS, IMS, & clutch. Scientific Automotive on Walnut
Clutch was just getting down to the rivets.. 87.5K
They use Porsche OEM parts, and LN Engineering IMS bearing retrofit.. mine was dual row bearing
Very pleased with their workmanship and communications.. Talk to Jack the owner.
They are very articulate..
Took the car in Monday morning, picked it up Tuesday evening.
Owner called me Monday evening of other items they discovered.. Coolant tank leak, Oil filler tube leak.
When I picked the car up, all defective parts were shown to me and all worked performed was explained.
The clutch feels awesome, drove home in rush hour traffic everything was great..
Your car will be in good hands..
PM me if you like, I'll give you my cell phone # if you like..
Tony
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Loren:
I replaced the battery and need the radio code, I purchased the car used and do not have the code.
Looking for the radio code for the following:
CDR-220
Type - 4462
Ser# 15088348
Thanks in advance
Tony
Try 9540
That worked
Thanks
T
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Loren:
I replaced the battery and need the radio code, I purchased the car used and do not have the code.
Looking for the radio code for the following:
CDR-220
Type - 4462
Ser# 15088348
Thanks in advance
Tony
Wiring to the Porsche Shut Off Valve - part no. 996.605.201.01
in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Posted
I tried looking for a wiring diagram and no luck, one of my PDF files are corrupted.
I do not see a fuse or relay associated to that circuit, unless its associated with the fuel pump circuit.
Did you try running a ground jumper wire to it on the car?
Weird that a grounded terminal is reading 3.5 volts.
Sorry not much help
T