dougg996

 

I have read on posts elsewhere that the wheels need to turn while you go through the gear shift dance in the second part of the fill process involving warming up the ATF to 40 degrees and completing the fill. I note that the workshop manual simply describes moving the gear shift slowly through all the shift positions pausing for about two seconds at each position. Does any body know whether the wheels need to turn in order to get ATF into the torque converter etc?

 

No.  With the engine running, and the trans in gear, the front  pump is running at full pressure and everything is full.

 

One further query JFP, how important is it to drain all fluid from the system ie. from cooling lines etc?

It was really easy to get the overflow pipe out off the pan. When I took it out, 2 more quarts of fluid came out... 

Hi Nixer I'm about to do my ATF change. Can you tell me, do you think I could pass a 5mm plastic tube up through the green plastic overflow pipe pictured in your last post in order to carry out the refill procedure? Also can you confirm that you collected about 10 quarts out through the drain plug after taking out the overflow pipe? thanks bill

thanks JFP

I have read on posts elsewhere that the wheels need to turn while you go through the gear shift dance in the second part of the fill process involving warming up the ATF to 40 degrees and completing the fill. I note that the workshop manual simply describes moving the gear shift slowly through all the shift positions pausing for about two seconds at each position. Does any body know whether the wheels need to turn in order to get ATF into the torque converter etc?

you place a screwdriver up the back of the pad between pad backing plate and calliper and ease the pad forward

Thanks for the input. The workshop manual also talks about draining the ATF from the cooling lines which exit from the left side of the transmission casing . Has anybody done that?

it all looks pretty clean to me, I don't think those oil marks would dissuade me from buying it if it otherwise was in good shape. it looks about the same as the underside of my 2003 996tt and mine has only done 20k miles.

I have a high milage 2011 diesel Cayenne (90k mls) and want to change to ATF. There are tutorials around on ATF change with the earler pre 2011 models but have not found any related to the later models. Anybody done this that could offer advice?

I take my mats out regularly, I don't think you will do any harm by exerting what ever force is necessary to unclip.

It is indicating a fault in the system, you need to get the vehicle scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool to find out what the problem is.

thanks JFP. Will Durametric reveal the fault?

The 'engine' icon warning light has appeared on the dash of my 2011 Cayenne Diesel which the Manual says is to do with a fault in the emission control system. Anyone know had any experience with this problem?

ATE type 200 is fine for the brakes.  While the Durametric system can activate the ABS/PSM control system during a flush, doing so is only necessary if air has gotten into the control network.

 

As for coolant, we only use Porsche's stuff, which is very good, but has been known to "not play well with others", so be careful about using other products unless the system has been fully drained and flushed with water first.  Only mix the Porsche antifreeze with distilled water, never tap water.  The optimal way to refill the cooling system is using a vacuum tool, which makes the process a 5 min. project instead of an all day affair.

 

The second Pentosin tank (in the luggage compartment, under a cover) is for the clutch system.  Flushing the power steering system is a pretty elaborate affair, requiring disconnecting the hydraulic system from the rack and running fresh fluid through the entire system until it is clear.  Most owner's prefer to DIY this by siphoning out as much of the old fluid from the tanks and replenishing it at least once every year rather than disconnecting the lines from the rack and pumping fluid through the system.

 

Porsche has typically listed their "approved" lubricants in Technical Service Bulletins, which are periodically updated, but you can usually find a wealth of information is the DIY sections under maintenance: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/342-996tt-manual-transmission-and-front-wheel-drive-oil-replacement/.

You say mixing Porsche's stuff with others can be a problem. What problems does this cause?

Further on the coolant issue, how often would you say coolant should be replaced in a 996tt?

Finally, is it really necessary to replace steering fluid, - annually?

thanks for your help

Thanks Tom. That write up is helpful. Anyone have the torque specs. I found the torque specs for the panamera but not a 2011 Cayenne 6

Hi Samak

just changed my own pads and rotors. the torques for caliper bolts is 85nm and rotor fixing screw is 10nm.  I have the workshop manual, if you need more details send me a pm and I will send you a copy

Hi Samak

just changed my own pads and rotors. the torques for caliper bolts is 85nm and rotor fixing screw is 10nm.  I have the workshop manual, if you need more details send me a pm and I will send you a copy

I am about to do rear brake job for my '12 Cayenne S. Where are you getting instructions on how to do that, alldatadiy or somewhere else? My rotors appear to be OK, and have never been cut, whats is a standard practice for this car, should I replace them as well, or just replace the pads?

you don't need to change rotors unless they are down to 28mm min thickness.I will send you a PM with instructions for pad change.

Moosey, did you use the 'assembly pins' to hold the brake calipers away from the rotors while you changed the pads, or did you just wire them up the suspension mount while working on changing the pads?

The workshop manual recommends the use of these 'assembly pins' when changing fronts but doesnt mentions using these pins while doing the rears. Also did you finish up using new bolts or not?

Im just about about to do my rears and your post is very reassuring. thanks

Moosey, the following is cut and pasted from the Cayenne 2011 workshop manual regarding rear brake caliper bolt torques:

No. 3: Threaded connection securing brake calliper to wheel carrier

M12 x 1.5 x 115 thread

(always replace screws and

lock nuts after removal)

Tightening torque 85 Nm (63 ftlb.)

No. 3: Threaded connection securing brake calliper to

wheel carrier 19” and PCCB (always replace screws and

lock nuts after removal)torque (104 ftlb.)

M14 x 1.5 x 135 thread Tightening 140 Nm

Tightening torques for front axle Page 4 of 8

Brake calliper pivot bearing

Spring strut

I got my new bolts from http://www.design911.com/

in the UK.

thanks JFP. Does that then mean that you must have access to the factory testing gear PIWIS in order to do your rear brakes, or is there an alternative?

Can Durametric used to set the park brake in 'service' mode?

If your not replacing park brake shoes, is it still necessary to have park brake in 'service' mode in order to change rotors and pads?

thanks, that's great!

can anyone tell me whether it is ok to use DOT4 brake fluid in a 1980sc. I see the owners manual recommends DOT3, but I am doing a fluid change on my 996tt at the same time and would be easier to be using the same fluid?

18" standard brakes. Thanks Loren

Model is Diesel. Thanks

Anyone able to tell me what the minimum brake disc thickness on Cayenne 958 (2011)discs should be before replacement?