gbratk

No problem.

Drilling out the rivets is not the option.

Here you have all information you need

http://www.inkilino.es/Porsche_Cayenne_02-06/DOOR%20FRONT%20LOCKING%20SYSTEM.pdf

He's talking about the new Vertex designed bearing that goes around the shaft in 2pcs so you don't have to remove the CV I believe, just cut off the old one. One of the earlier users complained about more vibration being transmitted but it may have been an install issue as a later user said it was as quiet as OEM.

As I know This is only support, so without bearing, but orthotist have bearing problem. In that case you have to change complete center bearing support assembly or complete shaft.

It was high pitched whine noise, coming from center console area. It started whining around 20km/h and it was not stop till go under 20km/h. It was extremely annoying.

Where can I find your clip? Let me know, I'll listen it and let you know If I had the same sound.

It's been three weeks since I changed fuel pumps,but consumption remains the same. Trip computer say around 14l/100km but reality is 20l/100km.

Well fuel pumps are changed. It was definitely just the right time. Fuel filter was totally black like oil filter, and gas in filter housing was metallic black, so pumps where definitely on the way out. Now I'm wondering if could this metallic gas done some injury to injectors? Probably wont hurt to put some injector cleaner in tank.

I'll see if there will be some differences in behavior now.

Fuel pumps are on the way. I'll change them next week, I hope there will be any difference in behavior, and consumption.

With not proper working fuel pumps i had 20 / 22

Liter per 100 km. Now much better. I need to check exactly

This consumption is just like mine. Did you also see high consumption on PCM trip computer or just when you math?

I'll really change my fuel pumps. They will gone bad sooner or later, so it's better to change them now.

In summer I drive in marina,where i have my boat, every weekend, doing 500miles on highway. I drive it gently all the time and best I get is 11mpg. Yesterday I drive it just a little bi more faster and I get 9,8 mpg.

I was already thinking to change fuel pumps, and I planning to change them soon, not to wait till they fail.

If the car was smoke tested with out any faults found you only have part of the data. Has anyone looked at the fuel trims or put a fuel pressure gauge on the car? do you have any power loss when you get on the gas? The most important information at this point are the fuel trims.

I also make fuel pressure test, and if I remember right, it was 3,8bar, when car was running and and after one hour when car was not running pressure drop to 3,1 bar. I really need to find some expert to look fuel trims. About power loss, I have some hesitation like small vibration, around 1000rpm, if I give him a bit more throttle, but everything above 1500rpm is smooth.

You may have a drivability issue that needs to be diagnosed by looking at your fuel trims to determine what area to focus on. I am not going to guess however what you describe could be a fuel regulator/ leaking injectors, vacuum leaks etc. You can have all or anyone of these issues without throwing a CEL. Go see

someone that specializes drivability issues to solve your problem.

I already did smoke vacuum test and there were no leaks. I really need to find someone who can do more than just look for error codes...

Go do a manual check. filler her up, note the mileage and then on next fill do the math, only way to be sure

I always do manual check. Like I said, 16MPG is counted by trip computer, but if I do math there is around 11MPG or worse all of the time.

Well, my trip computer also show me average 16mpg, but reality is 11mpg. Truck is running fine, there is no error codes (checked with durametric). Look like that is what it is need and I don't care any more. I like every minute of driving and that counts also.

I have 295 35 21, and there is no contact between tire and arch liner. And yes mine is on air suspension.

Here is one picture, is is totally the same like mine, except I don't have side skirts.

I can make some pictures if you want.

I have 957 21'' wheels and I love it, and it looks great.

Wau that is great! I'm looking for that for a weary long time.

Great job.

I'm also interested in that. Continuous slamming with tailgate really make me nervous.

I didn't change engine mounts yet, but I'll have to do that to somewhere in the future.

1) I changed only center bearing by myself. Bearing cost was around 100€, and it took around 4 hours to do the whole job.

2) Well I had slight vibrations on highway driving. Last week I had alignment done, and changed winter 19'' with summer 21'' and all vibrations are gone.

3) The good thing is, that you can change engine mounts without removing engine on the S. On the Turbo you have to take out the engine from the car to do this job.

4) I changed valve body by myself, and it was easy job. It take one day to do it, coz you have to cool down the car, and it cost me around 1300€ with OE valve body, filter, gasket, and Mobil ATF. I would change body first, than clear TCM adaptations, and maybe you'll not need to change TCM. I can say, that this job is worth every penny.

I also have 04 CS, and he cost me lots of thousands € last year, but I still love it :) I love driving much more than the destination. :)

1) I had exactly the same whining noise, and It was cardan shaft center bearing.

2) Have you checked your tires, wheel alignment?

3) Could be collapsed hydraulic engine mounts, transmission mount.

4) Hard upshift 1-2 is TCM related, Look for TSB at this page. Rough 'clunk' downshifts are Valve body related. I had the same problems, so I changed TCM and Valve body, and all shifting problems are gone,

With ross tech VCDS cable, you can code TCM without any problems.

But you need to know which DME sw. you have, and if it's to old, DME needs to be updated to, and this can only be done with PIWIS by dealer.

I had the same problem. After changing Valve body, I also changed TCM, and all shifting problems are gone.

Look this:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/getdownload/698-cayenne-hard-shifting-in-range-first-to-second-spdf/

The battery is only 2 months old.

without the dynamo on, the voltmeter show only 12 volts. is it too low?

should it be 12.x volts?

Way too low, should be around 14V.

You have 12V with engine off, which is OK.

When engine is running you should have around 14V

http://www.amazon.com/Excelvan-Bluetooth-Interface-Scanner-Adapter/dp/B007P14NPU/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1362946000&sr=1-5&keywords=elm327+bluetooth

Total w/app $15.00, not bad...

Im looking for software like http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS.html which I used to tweak my Audi S4.

You can use VCDS on all cayenne control units except pcm (radio).

It's hard to guess.

Read error codes first.