RRRUFF

10 minutes ago, BufordTJustice said:

It's still possible that you may need more viscosity. Might want to look at Mobil-1 5w-50. It got up to 98 in the shade here in Orlando today and I can only imagine what another 10 degrees F would do to oil temps and film thickness. The fact that the issue disappears at anything but those high temps is a clue.

 

In fact, at 108 degrees, you could likely use Mobil-1 15w-50 and not get variocam errors! Yikes!

Last year, when this happened the first time,  the oil was in fact Mobil 1 15W50.

On ‎6‎/‎27‎/‎2017 at 2:36 PM, BufordTJustice said:

EDIT: I just read that you've got 5w-40 in the car now. Is the LM oil you're using A40 rated?

 

Mobil revised their 0w-40 formulation to make it even thinner than before (it starts at BARELY a 40-weight oil) and, if your temps are in the elevated range, this means you're essentially running a Xw-30 oil. The Mobil has also shown to sheer (lose viscosity) quickly. Add in some fuel dilution, and you could be rocking a 30-weight oil in terms of viscosity and not even know it.

 

How many miles on the oil in the crankcase? Lots of short trips?

 

Also, you may want to look at the updated (and backspec'd) oil pressure regulating spring and valve.

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/0896/POR_0896_ENGOIL_pg5.htm#item14

 

Valve: 997-107-125-01-M100

 

Spring: 996-107-127-53-M100

 

If you haven't done this already, I recommend it. I gained about 1/4 BAR of oil pressure simply from doing the upgrade...and the parts are CHEAP. Easy to do while changing your oil, too.

 

BufordTJustice - Liqui Moly 5W40 is A40 approved oil,  about 2K miles on the oil in the crankcase.  I did replace the spring and valve 20K miles ago during my DIY top-end rebuild.

On ‎6‎/‎27‎/‎2017 at 0:44 PM, Loren said:

Exact model and year of your car please?

Loren - the car is 2000, 996, convertible, with ~197K miles, underwent a DIY top-end rebuild 20K miles ago.

Need some help.  Yesterday Tucson was about 108 in the shade.  After driving around and engine temp high but within operating range,  the engine started to hesitate.  Applying some gas, brings the idle back up but if I release the gas RPM goes low and threatens to stall.  Conditions:  A/C on (did I say it was 108 deg in the shade?), at 3000RPMs oil pressure is at about 2 bars,  at idle 750RPM oil pressure goes about .6 bar.  Going to work that morning (88 deg outside) all was well.  Last year in August, same thing happened, I had attributed it to having just replaced the oil with Mobil 15W50 that morning and the incident happened that afternoon.  I immediately replaced the oil back to Mobil 1 0W40 the next day and no incident since.  This April, I replaced the oil with 5W40 Liqui Moly and have not had any problems until yesterday.  No other things have been done to the car that stands out being unique from the time this happened last summer.  I am getting ready to go back to Mobil 1 0W40 but I am at a loss as to why the oil viscosity might be causing this....or maybe it is something else like the MAF.  Any thoughts out there?

2000 Convertible with 196K miles. Top engine rebuild at 176K miles.

Thanks for the tip (pun intended)! I did the same epoxy job. Works great.

So I just had one of the tips on my 2000 cab fly off last night. Really.....I have to replace the whole nozzle for $193. No replacement tips?????

Job is done!! I did take pics but honestly they look just like the other threads. It went very smooth, without any surprises. The hardest part was the dang slave cylinder install. I had intended to stick it back on before getting the tranny all the way back in and actually forgot! The tranny went in in 20 minutes which really did surprise me! Let me tell you how I finally got the slave back in after literally hours of trying. The hard part is you have to compress the shaft of the slave to get the mounting ear lines up with the bolt holes(pushing HARD!) then you have to try and get the threads started while holding force on the slave.....(It SUCKS)! Finally my trick was to find a drill bit that fit snug in the bolt hole, and sick it almost all the way into the ear the bolt goes through on the slave... Then compress the slave and when you have it lined up push the bit into the bolt hole to hold the compressed cylinder in place.... I used the bottom hole for this because it is MUCH easier to get the bolt in the top hole! Once the top bolt is in it's pretty easy to line up and get the bottom in! It took me 45 minutes to get the bottom bolt out so I spent the money on a ratcheting 13mm wrench and to was awesome putting the bottom bolt in(took 2 minutes)!

All in all it really was pretty easy! LN has a great kit for this(which BTW I will now sell)... I would not hesitate to do this again in the future. Oh one more thing! make sure you make a list of all you need to complete this job before ordering the parts! I forgot the clutch alignment tool and totally lucked out and found one that matched the spine and dimensions at Oriley's!

If anyone is interested in the LN install kit I'll sell it for 150 shipping included.

Thanks for the post. Other than the LN install kit and the Clutch alignment tool can you share your list of parts and tools with the rest of us? BTW what was your final tally on actual hands-on time?

Congratulations on your C4 cab. There is a lot to learn. The few things I've picked up so far are: 1. If you start looking at all the things that could go wrong you will drive yourself crazy. 2. There should be many fluid changes in your future.

I dropped the transmission and replaced the IMS s well as the AOS. The bearing was in perfect shape but now I have piece of mind. I do have a slight start up rattle so I am replacing the chain tensioners this week. I am now relatively sure that the plastic I saw was from my chain guides. They will have to hold on a bit longer until I can scrape together the money or gain enough experience to replace them. I now have three new style chain tensioners sitting in front of me 188-01, 186-01, and 180-56 but I have to do some more research before I know if I should install all, some, or none of them with my old style roller link chains.

Congratulation on your 996. Sounds like you have the problem taken care of. I am glad to hear that you were able to take care of the problem. I too purchase my car in CA (San Diego) and drove 500 miles to Arizona. Loved every minute of the drive back with my 12yr old son beside me! Smiles the whole way! I plan on doing much of any work on my car as well so I like seeing posts like these and I plan on doing it myself as I go.

156K on my 2000 cab!

Clutch, flywheel and RMS seal replaced at 76K

Steering lock, Water reservoir, break rotors and pads, and RMS replaced at 83K

water pump replaced 84k

new front break rotors and pads 122k

looking like spark plug tube leaked a little will keep an eye on this one but already ordered the parts.

Always used Mobile1 0-40w.

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Thanks for the info on this thread. Looks like that will be on my list to do first.....easy and necessary!