WARDHOG

Sounds like you're getting a new engine courtesy of Porsche. Sorry to hear that too because that probably will destroy your confidence in Porsche regardless of a new engine. Maybe this would be an opportunity to haggle for a new 997 C4S because it's in your ballpark. <_<

Mind me asking how much that extended warranty was from your dealer? That may just be the best route.

Thanks.

Around 3K with $50.00 deductible but is wavered if work is accomplished at dealer and free car rental anywhere. Every dealer is different.

I have about 15,800 miles on my 2003 996 manual trans, grey interior, c2... my warranty is up in a couple of weeks.. is there anything I should be looking for on the car that could warn me to a potential problem that I can get fixed before my warranty expires? I've only had the car for about 800 miles so I am not familiar with the history... any help would be appreciated!

Thanks!

My warranty is also near it's expiration time and I decided if I was going to own a Porsche after it's factory exp date, I was going to have to buy an after market warranty plan. I purchased one thru the dealer for seven more years or 100K miles for bumper to bumper. You should look into buying one thru your dealer before your's expire.

Hi,

i own a 996 gt3, and im having overheating problems. the problem first occured when i noticed that coolant was dripping from the reservoir. I had it checked and the mechanic discovered a hole in the reservoir and fixed it. After a few days, the car temp still increased even though the leak has been fixed, and the level of coolant sometimes goes doen min level, and then goes up again. Is my thermostat busted? Thanks!

Sounds like you may have a bad tank cap. It only cost around $20 or so to replace it. I change mine every two years because that's the average lifespan for those caps, then you start having cooling problems like you've described.

I just changed out both rear brakes pads and rotors on my car. Anybody know the proper way of breaking them in? The parts are stock Porsche parts.

TIA!

:unsure:

I just changed out both rear brakes pads and rotors on my car. Anybody know the proper way of breaking them in? The parts are stock Porsche parts.

TIA!

:rolleyes:

I need to change out my door lock to fit my new key and someone said it was easy by removing a spring and pin but for the life of me I can not see how it removes from the handle assy. Anyone venture a guess. :cursing:

Can you give us some better pics than that? <_<

I'll try but my camera is not the best. Do you know if it can be done?

I need to change out my door lock to fit my new key and someone said it was easy by removing a spring and pin but for the life of me I can not see how it removes from the handle assy. Anyone venture a guess. :cursing:

Can you give us some better pics than that? <_<

I hear it is a simple thing to update the motormounts in a 2004 C4S but would like to review the process before I start in about 10 hours. I have the Rennsport mounts to put in. I have a full shop, air tools and a lift if necessary but I think a floor jack should be plenty. Thanks in advance, eric

Just curious to why you want to change them out? What benefit would it be? Is there a performance factor involved? What about the warranty issues? :o

what do you mean by "temperature gage go higher"?

mine stay in between "8" and "0" on highway, local traffic it's in the middle of "0"

is it normal?

Friendly little reminder to change out your plastic coolant tank pressure cap if you haven't done it within the last two years. They only last about two years and then will cause your car to dump coolant out of the cooling system. I know, this happened to me about two summers ago and I caught it going bad this time about a month ago by watching my temperature gage go higher than normal readings. Changed it out and everything is back to normal. The cap is only around $20.

I'll apologize in advance if this was covered in a prior topic that I couldn't find, but has anyone tryed installing this--it plugs into the antenna jack on the radio and provides a much clearer sound/signal than simply using the built in FM modulator--it works great on my Honda and I didn't know how difficult it would be to do to my 997. Thanks, Paul

Did that to my MY03 C4S years ago and it does sound pretty good. I even use it for my Ipod because I disconnect the audio output on the XM Rodie receiver and plug it in the headphone jack on the Ipod and play away. One thing is I have to have the XM receiver powered on to listen to the Ipod.

I need a new clutch. Found this on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SACHS-02-04...sspagenameZWDVW

For my 02 996 C4 Cab.

The other issue is that no mechanic around here will do the work in less than 8 hours. From what i've heard, the job should be done in 4-5 hours.

One mechanic will let me bring in the kit myself, however he will charge me $10/hr additional. Regular rates $78/hr - so $88/hr with my kit.

The quote I have is $1250+tax ( if they source the kit ) for the clutch kit install and RMS replacement.

Feedback? Thanks -

The Ebay clutch that has a statement saying that the picture is the actual clutch you'll be buying doesn't look right. If you buy cheap on clutches, you'll be very sorry. Pay the extra and get the right genuine Porsche part and don't worry. Saving two hundred bucks on a part that is questionable and hard to change is not a good investment for your Porsche. Suncoast has them on special and is the real deal.

Suncoast clutch kit

Ebay clutch kit

Typical throwout bearing problems will be louder when pedel is depressed and definately change when pedal is released. You need to isolate the noise as to whether it is from engine or the bellhousing. If it is in the bellhousing, most likely a broken spring on the flywheel. This happens at times and can make a hell of a racket as the flywheel is not as tight as it should be and the spring is rattling because one side is not connected. If it is the engine, it could be valves otr the intermediate shaft or any number of other things.

Find out from where the noise is coming from and let us know.

Sound only happens when releasing clutch to go, not when car is idling.

Is it in third instead of first, lol. J/K

That's exactly what it sounds like! :eek:

Well, I have around 40K on my 2003 C4S and I've noticed a very ugly sound coming from my engine after stopping at a light and then going. Just as I let out the clutch in a normal manner, I can hear my engine ratting like it's lugging and I swear I can hear the valves chattering until higher RPMs are reached. This only happens at low RPMs when starting to roll from a complete stop. I don't feel any vibration thru the clutch pedal or thru the steering wheel when this happens. It sort of sounds like a diesel at idle or those dreaded dieseling engines on older cars that aren't in good shape when stopping the engine. I've already had my RMS changed at 18k miles and I had them put a new clutch in while they were at it. I'm also going to have my RMS replaced again because of another leak. So, what do you think this could be? Valves acting up or a clutch chattering away? Need some input so I can be educated about this before I present my case to my dealer.

TIA! :huh:

I need some help from Loren, Toolpants or any of you other hands-on, mechanical folks. I'm technically challenged, so please forgive the stupid questions.

I have a 2002 C4S with 53,000 miles.

I have the RMS leak, and I am fortunately under CPO warranty, so the cost of this repair will be covered. Dealer has indicated it will also change out the intermediate seal at the same time.

I also believe that my clutch is likely pretty worn (no signs of slippage, but clutch engages at very high peddle and clutch peddle is hard to depress).

I think it may be a good time to make a proposition to the dealer to also change out the clutch with me paying the difference out of pocket. But how much is fair?

From a search on this subject, I gather that the labor involved in the warranty RMS work includes dropping the transmission, so I assume that this represents the lion's share of the labor that's also required to change out the clutch? If this is true, what's a reasonable amount of incremental dealer labor that I should have to pay for?

Also, I gather that if I obtain the clutch kit, etc. myself from Sunset, it's likely to be hundreds less than the same parts via my local dealer. Is it reasonable for me to obtain the kit to save $ and expect the local dealer to install for just the incremental labor charges?

Finally, (last dumb question) does the RMS repair involve draining all the oil, and hence it'll include an oil change?

Thanks.

I would change your clutch out with 53K on the car and this is a great time to do it for free on the labor. $200 - 300 is the going price for a clutch disk. Whether you go thru the dealer or an outside source is up to you and depends how good of a relationship you have between you and your dealer. I'm also facing my second RMS change at 39K miles on the clock. The first was at around 19K and the dealer charged me $287 for the clutch and that was a lesson and I'll provide the second one. :cursing:

I know MAF problems were covered thousands times, but my question is about cleaning it. When cleaning sensor, we are not supposed to touch anything. Just spray fluid on it and dry it. Pretty simple.

Hmmm!!!!!

DID ANYBODY TOUCH ANYTHING ON THE SENSOR?

Can we clean it gently for example with q-tip?

Are we going to damage sensor permanently?

Thank you for respone.

Don't touch and use CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner and let dry and repeat two more times. No Q-tips because some of the cotton may lodge itself and get stuck and you may also risk breaking it (not the q-tip)

Why are you cleaning it? :o

Here's a new, comprehensive review on the 2007 Porsche Carrera 4/4S Coupe, with detailed information on design, performance, safety and options. Available is also a video clip and photo gallery with the car.

"The width of the car shows the difference: The most striking, eye-catching highlight of the 911 Carrera 4 and 911 Carrera 4S are the wheel arches flared out on each side by 22 millimetres or 0.87”, accommodating 295/35 ZR 18 tyres on the 911 Carrera 4 and 305/30 ZR 19 tyres on the 4S. A feature shared by both models is their four-wheel drive conveying power to the road..."

You can read the whole article here: http://www.topspeed.com/cars/porsche/porsc...pe-ar27316.html

That's one sweet *** that C4S has. Plus the C4S has 355HP instead of the 320HP the 996 C4S has. They got rid of the turbo look and reflector strip on the back, an option I like. I was wondering if the brake pads will be have to be replaced more often because of the PASM pre loaded brake system function that pre loads the brake hydraulic pressure causing the pads to ride the rotors when the gas peddle is released suddenly? Porsche is still pushing their PCCB on us as an option.

You are right power steering is Pentosin and it is a green color.

Either way I would pull the front underside cover and see where it is coming from.

Tool Pants had a leak in his steering box for a couple of years as I recall.

I guess it wouldn't hurt to take it off and look before I get the stealer involved. Thanks Loren! :rolleyes:

Green makes me think coolant.

Red makes me think steering gear (power steering fluid).

Is it oily or watery?

It's oily and will not evaporate. It's actually on the green side but my coolant isn't that green. I thought C4S used clear hydraulic fluid. (Pentosin CHF 11 S)

Would this be coming from the air conditioning condenser located on the front right side? Afraid to run air cond until cause of leak is fixed.

Hi All

Need your help!

Does anyone have a diagram over how to connect all the vacuum hoses correctly on a 3.2 2002 intake i.e. the vacuum lines to and from the throttle housing and resonance valve housing?

Any help is much appreciated. I just want to make sure everything is correctly connected to get the most out of the swap

Kanin

If you open up the engine lid, you'll find a vacuum diagram sticker next to the emissions statement sticker located on the left hand side of the lid. Hope that helps.

Nice ride! Love that color too but the tire rim combo looks all wrong for that car to me. What brand and size are those tires because they look like they don't fit well on those rims. Plus, they look like 50s or something. Also, do yourself a favor, detail it yourself that way you really get to get the feel and look of your car. Changing the brake fluid and oil should be considered in the near future not unless you have proof of when it was done. As far as the sound system, good luck and I've been blessed with my stock system. Porsche finally stopped fooling around in 2003 and slapped a decent sounding one in. Have fun with it and enjoy your new found love.

:welcome: