WARDHOG

Nice ride and :welcome: Where abouts are you located at? See ya around and have fun and be safe.

Fabspeed web site states, "2ndarary Catalytic converters give major gains in power give the car a much Sporty & throaty sound. No check Engine Light & passes all emission tests. 10-14HP Gain."

Since when is 10-14 hp a major gain? My V6 needs more power, but how can 1-14hp be a noticable difference in a vehicle this heavy? I could barely get a Ford Freestar off my tail today on the highway. The service manager at my local P-car dealership claims it will take an extra 40hp to make a noticable difference in my car.

Hi, folks. I have a 2002 996C2, 6-speed. While looking under the engine I noticed this part stuck between the rear of the engine block (or maybe a water passage) and the bracket for the exhaust system. The part number is 999 703 478 40. Its material is EPDM. Does anyone have any idea what this part is and where it goes? I have had the car for four months and the engine works and sounds OK - except for a clattering sound just as it approaches 0 RPM when shut off. TIA.

Dan

It's a vibration bushing used on your air filter box. Someone took the box out and when it was put in, they must have not noticed it came out where the alignment post goes through. The post mates inside the bushing in which sits in a hole under the rear lip of the air filter box. Hope that helps :P

Change your plugs and if you do use a fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank, change your oil after a tankful of treated gas. Also, clean out you air filter. :welcome:

Dude, do yourself and us a favor, delete three out four post of this same subject. You only need to post it once

Very good. Now, what about your rotors? :eek:

Item 2 - N.906.487.02 tapping screw 4.8 X 16 (10 per car)

Item 3 - 999.507.640.09 clamp (10 per car) Item 4 - 996.504.715.00 grommet (20 per car)

Item 5 - 996.504.743.00 support (left)

Item 6 - 999.507.668.02 speed nut (4 per car)

Item 7 - 996.504.893.00 rubber lip (left)

Thanks Loren! :clapping:

Item 1 - 996.504.363.00.01C Left Sill Cover (in Satin Black)

Do you need any of the other hardware?

I guess it wouldn't hurt to replace the old stuff. Oh by the way, thanks for the pic and correct p/n.

Which side?

BTW... they come primered so you will have to get it painted.

Driver's side but, it isn't painted. It's just black plastic.

That part number is for the Left side Aerokit Cup rocker panel.

Are you replacing an existing one or adding both sides to your car?

I don't have an Aero Kit on the car. It's just the plan stock black one that I need.

Hi,

Was wondering if anyone has installed and used the Vortech Supercharger by VF Engineering on their cars? Any reviews would be appreciated.....is it worth spending $10,000?

Thanks,

Samvit

Haven't heard nothing about VF and maybe they are good but, I would go with someone who's been S/C Porsche for a long time and is trusted in the Porsche community. For about the same price you can have these guys install a kit in your car. I plan on have my car S/C by these guys when warranty runs out.

Evolution Motorsports - EVO

an evo kit IS vf

Doh! I wasn't even paying attention! :eek:

Hi,

Was wondering if anyone has installed and used the Vortech Supercharger by VF Engineering on their cars? Any reviews would be appreciated.....is it worth spending $10,000?

Thanks,

Samvit

Haven't heard nothing about VF and maybe they are good but, I would go with someone who's been S/C Porsche for a long time and is trusted in the Porsche community. For about the same price you can have these guys install a kit in your car. I plan on have my car S/C by these guys when warranty runs out.

Evolution Motorsports - EVO

I need a picture or diagram to verify that this part number is right for my car. Part number is; 996.559.983.02. I want to be 100% sure before I order this part and also, is this a part that can be changed in my garage with minimal amount of tools and no body shop tools or supplies?

TIA! :help:

Why do you think the epoxy wouldn't stick after a while? Why would it find it's way into the oil pan? Sorry but unless you put gobs of epoxy and somehow managed to breake pieces of the the extra material off I can't imagine it happening. It seems like a perfectly reasonable way to fix the issue. Of course if the tube isn't very expensive, it's probably not worth the effort to clean and glue, but that's up to him.

It just won't stick after continuous exposure to oil. It won't happen right away but it will start to break down in an oil rich environment, I know because I see it all the time at work. Now, it would work as an emergency temporary fix, but that's all. I also think it's time to stop rigging your car if you can afford a car such as a Porsche.

I have a 1999 996 C2. The oil fill tube has cracked completely in two were the ribs start. Has this happened to anyone out there? Does anyone know of a DYI fix for this problem or is this something best left to an experienced Porsche mechanic? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

Thank,

Lee

Clean up both ends of the parts that broke with alcohol and epoxy them together. You insert the non ribbed part of the tube into the ribbed part a little bit. This is a perminant fix. Use the proper epoxy for plastic and make sure you have a complete seal around the entire tube.

I'm sorry but I totally disagree on gluing the oil tube together. It probably would not stick after awhile and the glue may find it's way into the oil pan and possibly clog up your oil system. Don't be cheap and buy a brand new one and feel better about it.

What is the compression ratio for a 2003 996 TT? Is it 9.4:1 or 11.3:1?

TIA! :rolleyes:

My driver's side plastic running board is broken near the rear tire because I bottomed out on a curb and needs to be replaced. :cursing: Well anyways, I need a part number so I can replace it. Also, I might as well get the passenger's side part number as well, just in case.

TIA! :unsure:

The Retail Price Search feature (for our Contributing Members) has been updated to reflect March 2006 pricing for both the US and Canada. We will continue to try and update this on a monthly basis as the price lists come available. The April update should be here in the first couple of weeks of April.

For March 2006 the price lists support -

US: 202,715 parts

Canada: 202, 712 parts

Choose your price list from the drop down menu

Sounds great but, where can I find this? I don't know where to look and I've tried just about every where. :eek:

EDIT: I found it!

I just read the GT3 post about rotor thickness and that got me wondering the same for my 03 C4S. So, what are the specs?

TIA! :clapping:

Hello all!

Thinking about tinting my windows on my 99 c2 arctic silver c2.

has anyone done this?

what perecentage tints have people used- the installer i am using says to go as dark as legal.

dont know if i want to go that dark!

thanks in advance!

A professional window tint installer will have all the info you need on the proper legal tints in your state. Some states such as mine will allow you to tint as dark as you want with a letter from a doctor stating you have a physical condition that causes you problems with the sun. I carry such letter with my car at all times in case the cops want to enquire about the legality of the tint on my windows. I picked a tint the wasn't too dark because of safety reasons.

How much brake fluid should I have for bleeding the brakes and clutch on my '99 5-speed Boxster? The manual states a capacity of .4 liters, but on one of the posts, it was stated that one should have 1 liter at a minimum. I have 1 liter, but I don't want to start the job and find that I do not have enough. Thanks.

You definitely want more than you need. I just bled my brakes and clutch with 29K on the clock with no tracking and I was surprised how dirty the fluid was. It took about one and a half cans to do the job right. I changed the fluid out with ATE Blue. Don't be skimpy when it comes to brake fluid and such because you want to make sure you get all the old fluid out and new fresh fluid in.

Hello,

I just replaced my spark plugs on my 2000 Boxster S for the 30,000 miles tune up.

The plugs are the right Beru ones and everything went fine.

I went for a drive and after the engine warmed up, each time I would rev past 4,500 RPMs the check engine light would come up and disappear after about 3 seconds while I would slow down.

I am going to drive it slowly for a few days but is this normal? I never had a check engine light before.

Is it the ECU that is trying to recalibrate itself because the plugs are new?

If so how long would it take before the car runs the same as before I replaced the plugs?

Please tell me this is normal :(

Thanks in advance for the feedback

Your car should run great after plug change. Is it running rough? Have you checked the connectors to see if they are on good? What about the plugs themselves? Are they gapped proper and are the coil packs seating good on them? :o

But how do you get the filter to stay onto the engine without out it falling down while you are trying to screw the canister in place? I found it a tricky business....

And shouldn't the filter seat properly once the canister is torqued in place (19ftlbs)?

I haven't had any probs with this way of doing it. The filter will be in proper place as the cannister screws up into place and it always stays in place and doesn't fall off while on the engine. Works for me! :rolleyes:

Is is possible to make the fog lights stay on with the high beams on? It sure we be nice on those dark rural roads in the morning to see in the distance and also in the ditches. My car is a 2000 Boxster S that had Litronics added when I got it.

I did that to my Boxster and it was easy but, it's against the law to have both highs and fog lights on. I think the same thing can be done on a 911 as would a Boxster. Here's a link.

Fog light hack

Well, the first DIY oil change on my 996 is now history. Simple enough task but I was wondering if any of you first press the filter into the canister and then screw it onto the block. I tried doing it like the DIY instructions but it was impossible for me to start the threads. Please see pic below (sorry about the focusing but oily hands...).

Your input will be appreciated,

I just push the filter up into the engine because I know it's seated right and then put the cannister on after a new seal is put on wet.