WARDHOG

I've had the Porsche version and wasn't to thrilled with the fit on my Boxster so I went with Colgan and they were OK but not that great either. So on my C4S, I had installed a clear bra and that's one of the best thing anyone can do. I don't have one paint chip thanks to it and have 11K miles on the car.

That really sux. Sorry to hear about that. Now, how old is your car and is that the original engine? Have you ever complained to the dealer at all about any leaks or strange engine mishaps? If so, you could write PCNA and push a warranty issue to get your engine replaced. Good luck. :(

How about a cheap hand held GPS. Very accurate and you can temporary mount it anywhere you want. :)

My co-workers and I were having a discussion on the cost of engines and the subject of Porsches came up. Just how much does it cost for a brand new 3.6L with Egas on a manual tranny 2003 C4S cost with out labor? TIA!

:huh:

Just throw it in with a pile of old tires, throw some diesel on it, fire it up and watch the black smoke rise to the heavens! Who needs to recycle when you can have fun burning!? :thumbup: ;) :rolleyes:

It's more than likely the cosomlean(?) they slop all over the engine at the factory before shipping.

Well?!.... Where in the heck is it located? Is it in the front or towards the rear?

TIA, again! :huh:

I use Mobil 1 10W30 year round here in the south. It's the same that my dealer uses and recommends. I use it because it's widely found in just about all stores. I don't track or run my car hard and a thicker oil would be used for tracking in extreme hot weather environments such as the desert in August. :drive:

Hey Loren,

I was reading the C4S Fuel gage post and it's got me thinking. Where is the fuel tank on the C4S? Do you have a drawing or a picture of it in the car? Just curious and TIA! :drive:

No, I don't believe I would lose about 2 quarts of oil in about two weeks time and besides, it checks good after a couple of hours or so after last engine run. :(

I have a 03 C4S and have had it new since June of 03. It only has 3350 miles on it and I have changed the oil after break in and put 10w30 Mobil 1 with new filter. I put in about 83/4 quarts in and I have NO LEAKS. For about a week now, I go and check the oil both digital and with the stick and it's below the min lines on both and even get a flashing bar on the digital when checking. When I'm checking it, the ambient tempature is around 75 and it has been at least twelve hours since the engine has been ran. Now I know it has oil somewhere in that engine but, where does it hide at night? Do I have a internal oil leak or something? I know there is oil in the engine and I will start it up and drive it normally and after a couple of hours after the engine has been shutoff, the oil checks just fine both ways.

So, do you have any solutions or suggestion so my problem? <_<

TIA

WARDHOG

Just wondering why you would want to change the tranny fluid for a B&M shifter? All the shifter does is reduce the travel between gears on your handle only and doesn't change the normal operation of the transmission at all. I wouldn't change the fluid not unless I absolutely have to. You will probably have leaks from there on. Now, I'm a strong believer in preventive maintenance and my philosophy is, "Don't fix nothing that's not broken!" <_<

That's my 2 cents worth! :king:

DOH! :cursing:

I did a little experimenting on my 2003 996 C4S and cut the intake manifold square muffler in half. It's the one that mounts on the top cover were the MAP sensor is and the little intake duct connects directly to it. Well anyways, I don't like the results and want to configure it back to normal. Can you get me the part number so I can replace it? Thanks! :unsure:

Good question, that's what I want to know too!

I'm thinking about putting an engine guard on my car. The engine case is wide open and looks like it could be seriously damaged if coming off a curb to hard. I've already scraped it once and had a look at it. I remember a few months back when someone posted saying his engine casing was cracked and I didn't believe him and now I can see what that guy was talking about. I want to prevent that from happening. I was wondering if this would hinder the aerodynamics and cooling of the car at all? Here's a link. Tweeks

Weak fuel maybe? Try some fresh gasoline with the highest octane you can find from another gas station and see if the problem went away. It could take some time because of possible self updating software. That's my thought. :lightbulb:

The installation process only takes about two hours. That hardest part is removing the stock plastic bushings and that's not hard at all. One thing the instructions doesn't say is to remove the little square plastic piece that fits on the stock shifter. You don't need that little plastic piece because it won't fit on the B&M shifter. Also, go down to your local hardware store and buy a lock washer for the jam nut. I think it's a 12mm I.D.. If you don't install one, the nut will loosen and then you'll have all sorts of play that you don't want. One last thing, make sure you mark the cables good so you know what the thread count is. You're going to love the difference. B)

Titanmotorsports- B&M Short Shift kit for $235.00 plus S+H.

P.S. That's the right kit for the 996 too!

I agree there. I noticed that on my Boxster too before I traded it in on my current car. I had 17.5K on the car and seemed more responsive to my foot and felt like it had more HP. I guess I'll have to wait for another 16K miles or so. :rolleyes:

Like I said, never heard of NAINO car polish. Zaino yes, good stuff but, you can only use it on Vipers only. ;)

Naino car polish? Never heard of it. Where did you hear of it? Do you have a link or something? :huh:

That what it looks like to me. Hopefully it will be good until the life of the car. Don't worry about it and enjoy your Porsche! :)

Thank you Loren on the information on the PSE auto mute. It only took me 20 minutes for the job and two hours on op's checking it out. Thanks a million! :clapping: :jump:

Bad advice my friend. You should ALWAYS use jack stands while working under a car. Do not use cement blocks or any other back woods Bubba tool. Use the right weight rated stand. While you have the rear up and off the ground and on the stands, it wouldn't hurt to chalk your front tires too. A couple pieces of wood will do. Also before you jack up ANY car, put the car in Park or gear with the Parking brake on. ;)

If you're not getting it with the switch installed, you won't have to worry about that because the dealer has to install a wire harness, relay and switch in order for the auto mute to work. You won't have any electronics involved at all and it will be wide open and loud at all times. Don't let the dealer charge you more than 2 hours labor for installation instead of the 7.5 hours. Also, you can buy a brand new one for $1650 at Suncoast Motors. Tell you dealer you want the same price. If they refuse, order it from Suncoast and then have you dealer put it in. You'll love the sound and you will probally ride around with the stereo off too! :thumbup:

Suncoast

(corrected URL in post Loren)