rallygabe

Okay guys,

Anybody have pictures of a 996 with a classic huge whale tail spoiler grafted onto the rear deck?

I love the look of the classic porsche's and recently got a line on a cheap spoiler...but have yet to see images of anybody else's rendition of this.

Let the arguing begin! :P

use a caliper to measure the bar, and account for missing paint if it is corroded. Pelican has at least three different sizes on their site, and I'm sure the porsche catalogue has any others.

My car also feels rather loose in the rear with new tires...i've simply accepted it as it is aligned and nothing is loose underneath. *shrug* It's a Porsche? :)

I believe a garage is the best out doors car cover :)

Also on most NA narrow body cars, I don't recommend 19" rims if you've lowered the car due to bottom/out rub issues.

I will keep that in mind...though thats not why I was asking?

I don't expect the speedometer to be dead nuts on, but it is rather far off. My 2002 BMW is almost right on, so that is what I am used to.

Pity that you cannot adjust it easily. (there is always a way!)

Hey guys hoping somebody on here can fill me in on capabilities of the dealer software:

Can you adjust the wheel size/speedometer pulse count in the computer?

I have owners manual sized tires and the speedometer is WAY off, to the tune of 5mph fast. The speed doesn'tbother me so much as the odometer being way out of proportion to actual miles driven.

I am also considering going away form the stock size tires so this would be extremely helpful for that.

thanks!

my '99 had 19x11s on the rear when I purchased it. Not sure of the offset/ET but they looked great and fit like a glove. Will have to go check.

You can reach both ends by jacking up the Right Rear corner and removing the wheel. Piece of cake if the bolts aren't rusted on like mine were! :D

What kind of starting issues were you having? Slow starter?

This is the fun car, so vibration is not an issue. Just unsure if double the price is worth it! :D

Decided to pop the passenger side mount out since it is readily available: Looking into the mount from the stud end I can see rusty metal and lots of cracked looking rubber. I can also see where the 1/4" of play is coming from- the web that holds the stud in just droops down under the weight of the engine. Will see how new ones look in a few weeks.

Yeah, the oil was pretty nasty...Im guessing i got hoodwinked on yet another aspect of this car! :D

When the gearbox has no oil in it I can grab the CV hubs and feel a little gear play...not very enthused about that either, will see how it feels when I get oil back in it.

I put the jack under the rear of the engine and measured about 1/4" (6.35mm for you metric nuts out there) of droop from the engine mounts, and I can see the cylinder/rubber traveling pretty clearly. I think I will put new mounts in it regardless just because i have been finding a lot of, what appear to be, original parts on the car. Might even spring for RS or some aftermarket mounts...will see how frisky the pocketbook is feeling.

I have had my suspicion on the clutch needing help, though it is definitely not the friction disc as I have yet to notice any slippage, which is a bummer since I would probably change it all anyway! Are there any ways to check the clutch or flywheel in the car?

It's wonderful to see a fellow 1999 996 owner with so many miles.

I wish I had enjoyed more of them! I have only had it for about 3000 of them! only one road rally so far. :(

Engine oil level is between the marks.

Last time it was changed was before I bought it...I have a couple liters around here waiting for me to put them in. I will go see if I can do that right now.

I do have a durametric, I have an evap leak and if i let it idle long enough i get a lean threshold code. That is all.

Is there a checking procedure for engine mounts? I use the engine to jack the rear up and it definitely moves quite a bit, but not sure if it is TOO much?

The more i think about it, the more this is like a hard clunk. It feels like the drive line is shifting? Does that make sense to anybody else?

Car: 1999 C2 6spd, 158,000miles

Okay guys, need some thoughts:

Car runs terribly anyway, but I have been noticing more and more what I describe as "backlash" , or a kind of shudder from the driveline when going from coasting to on the gas and vice versa. It is very violent and obvious. feels the same on cruise control as well.

I am leaning towards engine mounts? Idle is extremely rough as well which adds up in my book.

I also bought a 99 c2 that had 19s on it. Ride was horse****, IMHO. Looked stunning!

Anybody want a set of 997 turbo/carreraS 19s? 8.5/11 widths! :)

So I went out and tried scanning one more time.

This time I payed a little more attention:

When I key on all of the idiot lights come on (bulb check) and after a couple moments the airbag light blinks (off then back on again)

I also payed more attention to the durametric- I can only access the DME, Alarm, and live values. Everything else gives the same "Module failed to initialize" error.

Any thoughts? :)

I was affraid of that.

Tried a couple of times over the last couple of days while doing other diagnostics. (fixed my high idle thanks to the durametric! yay)

The airbag light is on, so I am assuming that the control module is plugged in! :) I will see if Zimbrick's in madison can help me out the next time I am up there.

Thanks Loren!

I am with the "why are you trying to improve MPG on a Porsche?" crowd.

That being said- most tires that fit the stock size wheels will be pretty stiff sidewalls, compared with typical domestic/asian sizes, which roughly translates to better rolling resistance. Although I have not noticed any tires in the 17" OE sizes that are marketed as rolling resistance.

Another thought is that if you want to experiment with lowering your rolling resistance: Just run max tire air pressure and see how you like it. :)

I would suggest two bars that run front to back, that way you can lift side to side.

Side-to-side scares some people fro some reason, but it can't be worse than the one jack stand/teeter-toter technique that most people suggest.

Hey guys,

Got my Durametric in hand finally. Plugged in to my 99 C2 to diagnose my airbag light.

All I get is "code 0" module failed to initialize.

Am I missing some step to accessing the airbag unit? Can durametric not help me on my 99?

Off to read some help files/the manual :) thoughts?

thanks!

I've read over their marketing info, was just looking for any insights from users. The website doesn't really say anything, not that they are obligated to share their secrets to tire-kickers like me :)

I have worked on a couple first-year/odd-year BMWs where the motronic was completely different then the years adjacent.

I use my iphone for lots of different things and was thinking of getting a certain OBD cable to use with other softwares, sadly the more I read about that product the less I want it! I will probably get the durametric in the end. heheh

Hey guys, looking for some insights.

I am aware of a number of different reputable OBD scanners on the market that will give me streaming values for less than half the price of Durametric.

Since I have a very early year car what are the capabilities of the durametric scanner vs others? According to their website the first year Motronic has lesser capabilities?

I will be buying a scanner with streaming capabilities but want to know if the porsche specific development is worth the money? All i need is diagnostic capabilities.

cheers!

Try 8648

Thanks a million Loren!

Turns out I had the right code the whole time and didn't know it. Now I know what is scribbled in the radio manual! :D

I can't help with recommendations besides- DO IT! I am guessing you will have a hard time finding earlier model parts that are easily adapted to the 996 since it is largely redesigned form the earlier models. The strut-spindle is likely where you will find the most problems. Luckily there is a single balljoint and single tie-rod so once you have found an appropriate spindle you are golden. If you want porsche specific parts I would look to the 1980's cars probably. Somebody more porsche-esque would have a better idea.

Another thought is that the Europeans rock the GT3 RS through the dirt all the time without what us americaners consider dirt rally tires. Just keep that in mind before you jump off the deep end!

Cheers and good luck.

(heres a pic from my collections to keep you going)

<a href="http://photo.rallybimmer.com/GalleryFilmstrip.aspx?gallery=93106&mid=3029370&mt=Photo"><img src="http://photo.rallybimmer.com/i.ashx?gallery=93106&mid=3029370&mt=Photo&standardsize=1600x1200" /></a>

Hey guys, putting the 210 back into the rally car, did not get a code with the car though :(

99 Carrera2

CR210

R3297

W5020185

Thanks!

makes as much sense as anything. I was just confused since it didn't show up in any of the current catalogs.

Not sure if I should be happy that there are original parts on this car or not! :) They are getting replaced now though.

Thanks Loren!

#6

I am taking them off a 99 carrera2

It would appear to have this number on all 4 corners.