bschucher

did you look in your Owner's Manual? ;)

Everywhere but there.. Im as ***... Sorry. ;)

Hey there folks. Ive searched and searched. Have a blown buld in my right side marker light. How is the lens removed? Ive looked at every which way and cant seem to see it. Thanks in advance..

Hiya folks.. im curious to know if the antenna input into the PCM is of the typical euro type. I want to use sirius direct FM Mod and im hopin i can simply just get a euro adapter for it. If so, is the antenna plug relatively easy to access?? Thanks in advance

Hiya folks.. Have a 2006 CS2 and i have a question. I have had recurring probs with check engine light that was supposed to be taken care of. The last time in was for that and a 20K service. The mileage at that time was around 18500 or so. I started to get a service required in such and such mileage warnings after i got the car back. Now i am getting a constant check engine light again. Is it possible this light is simply a reminder that it needs its normal routine maintenance that i jut had done 1500 miles ago? Perhaps it just needs a reset? ANy thoughts?

Thanks for the input folks. I have decided to leave em off. Now if i can get my wife to stop bottoming out the front end and destroying it..... ughhh

And i would want to put a Boxster emblem on my Carrera why? ;)

Hiya folks.. I have a 06 S and the rear emblem had been taken off. I would like toput it back on. The dealer wants 100 bucks for the piece of plastic which is just silly. The new one does however have the adhesive already on the emblem so a simple peel and stick is all it takes. I have the old emblem but would have to dig all the old adhesive out of it. If i dig it out.. anysuggestions on what to use to get it back on the car?? Thanks...

P0130 - Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Intercore Short Circuit or Limited Voltage Increase

Probable causes:

Bad Oxygen sensor.

Bad connection at O2 sensor.

Faulty DME.

P1128 - Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 1 . 3) - Rich Threshold

P1130 - Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold

This means you are running too lean on both sides of the engine.

Probable causes are:

Intake or exhaust leak.

Low fuel pressure.

Your misfires have cleared or there would be codes for them too.

What is wrong with your cat? Could it have damaged the O2 sensor?

I would take the readings again and see if they are consistent with what you have reported here.

Then if the P0130 continues then I would replace the precat O2 sensor on that side.

Drive the car for a couple days and see if the other codes come back too. If so, report them here.

Yeah... im more concerned with the codes.. It seems there are several things it could be with those three codes... so far ive come up with air/vacuum leak, maf, and 02 sensor. Since it was running fine with CEL prior to batt disconnect, i have to guess not to the leaks.... Is it possible that the car worked out how to run with either a faulty MAF or O2 sensor and then when disconnect batt.. it cant do that now?? I'd hate to start part swapping to find out but that might be the only way..

Im starting to think there are only a cpl things this might be.. MAF, O2 Sensor or Cat.. Which should i try first???

Hi there... heres the story. Have a 98 MY with 30K miles.. Been having horn prob so last week i attempted to fix the horn. Disconnected batt but was unable to break lose bolts. Hooked battery back up and the car would start but bogged really bad. Had it towed into the shop. BTW... no CEL at this point. There was a CEL prior to disconnecting batt and IIRC it was P1128. Anyhow, garage calls me and tells me the car run fine after warming up and its not throwing any codes.. He ends up replacing some temp sensor and tells me one of my cats ir rattling pretty bad. Says its not the heat shield. I go to pick up car and it starts fine but does misfire and sound kinda bad for first several minutes.. On way home CEL comes back on. I take it to Advanced to get ODB done.. Its shows P1128, P1130 and pending code P0130 (o2 sensor circuit malfunction bank1 sensor 3. I went home and fixed the horn since i had the garage get me the part. Im gonna take it back in but do you think it could be as simple as a bad 02 sensor causing the cold start prob and it doesnt seem to have the responsiveness it did b4. Any thoughts and thanks a ton for ANY feedback..

Brian

Forgot to mention that is has also been running about 20 degrees hotter than it was...

Can anyone give me any input on the cheapest place to get a stcok catalytic converter for a 98 MY? Any help greatly appreciated..

Yes, it's true that after disconnecting the battery your ECU will lose all of its adaptive programming and reset back to defaults. However, it shouldn't be that bad. I've disconnected my battery many times (as I've done on many Motronic-based adaptive learning ECU's), and it's never that bad - I hardly notice it. After a few miles things are definitely better - but thats mainly because the ECU has adapted to my driving style. The adaptive learning lets the ECU optimize based on your style - and thats mainly for fuel-efficiency or performance (depending on how you drive).

The engine should never be seriously bogged down after an ECU reset. Give it a few miles though and see if the ECU learns to even things out. In your case the ECU might be reducing output (retarding timing, etc) to smooth things out for you, and the defaults are too advanced. In that case you might have other issues that are not apparent after the ECU learns to smooth things out. I'd get your ECU codes read at some point to see if there's any other issues.

What year is your car? When's the last time a service was done?

Thanks!

Shash

Its a MY 98. My wife bought it recently from a dealer that was not Porsche. It has had a CEL on for a lil while with a scan noting a downstream O2 Sensor. It has been running fine up until batt. disconnect. It just turned 30K miles and i i guess is due for that service now.

The engine control computer lost all memory of what is normal and what it should do. It learns over the next 100 miles. So let it idle for a while, let it warm up, then see if it is at all driveable and drive it for a while. Things should improve. It'll be lumpy and crankey for a while, then slowly get better.

Now this is interesting.. Do these cars have a history of this type of behavior? What i learned today is that if i let it idle until its at normal operating temp... its fine. Should this happen any time you disconnect the battery? I would think not..

Hiya folks... My 98' is in the shop with the following issue. When starting cold it idles but cant give it any gas or it just bogs down and misfires... after coming to normal engine temp...it runs just fine. No codes showing at this point.. Any thoughts?

Hiya.. yesterday i disconnected the neg cable for my batt to take apart the horn. I was unable to take the horn off but now the car wont run. It starts and idles but when i try to press the accelerator it just bogs down like its gas starved. Any ideas??

what were you doing when you tried to get to the horn? were you going after the alarm horn or the steering wheel horn?

Was the steering wheel horn.. See new post for update

Hiya.. yesterday i disconnected the neg cable for my batt to take apart the horn. I was unable to take the horn off but now the car wont run. It starts and idles but when i try to press the accelerator it just bogs down like its gas starved. Any ideas??

There is loctite on the threads.

Removed a few air bags over the years. Finally bought the long T30 bit for my ratchet wrench that is on the far right.

This is why the internet is the best thing ever invented! Thanks folks.

Anyone else have issues trying to break the bolts free from the steering wheel. My 98' bolts will not budge and im afraid to break em. Any thoughts?

BTW.. Im talking about the torx bolts holding the horn to the wheel..