jl-c

Thanks for that. OK.......I'll remove them and see if the codes clear. Guess what I will be doing tomorrow!?

Thanks JFP, that puts my mind at rest. Sometimes having a bit of information is worse than blind ignorance ! :D As for LED lights, no, none in the rear clusters just the interior lights.

2005 911 S 3.8 coupe manual using Durametric 6.3.2.5 I run a camshaft deviation check every month to (hopefully!) detect a possible failing IMS bearing. Over the months I have never had exactly the same reading for each camshaft i.e.. Camshaft 1 has been -0.625 , -0.5625 , -0.1094 and Camshaft 2 has been -0.5625 , -0.5781 , -0.7969 but I don't know what the figures are (I assume degrees) and if the change is significant or due to temperature etc? In other words how far do they have to change for me to be worried? Next problem I need some help on! Every time I interrogate the car for faults I get C141 Communication PCM (display) and 9150 Reverse light 1 failure. Now I can see no problem with the display and both reversing lights work fine! They will not reset just reappear each time. Any ideas? Many thanks, Jonathan

Subtle JFP :clapping: :clapping: ! I thought, in the centre console, you could of course be really radical and use the built in 'phone!

mine does!, 1 in the passenger footwell on the centre tunnel, 1 in the centre console and 1 in the ashtray.

Check out the BMW elipsoid headlamps, may be the same internal lens? We have a lot in the UK but don't know about in the USA.

05C2S already is a D2S from factory, did they change them?

Don't know if I would have a lot of faith in a company that can't even spell Porsche in their applications list!! :rolleyes: :D Seriously though, if they can replace all TPMS units with a range of three then it can only be a good thing for garages and customers alike.

Our water temperatures here in the UK go from 40 -120 (C of course!) so I thought WHAT?? until I looked at a US binnacle and of course yours go 100 - 250 (F!) so yes in answer to your question, assuming you were reading water temperature, it was hot. 250 is the STOP now point so maybe you need to look at those radiators and your fan operation or, if not fitted already, consider a low temperature stat (I know before anyone chimes in that it will not reduce running temperatures just opening point :lol: ) coupled with the third (centre) radiator. These engines do not like high temperatures and according to what I have gleaned over time, it is considered to be the most likely cause of bore scoring/cracking. OK, just read your signature, you are running Tiptronic so should already have the third radiator. Maybe add the GT3 vent above the third radiator to get rid of the heat more efficiently?

I have always found that a very light coat of vaseline over the door seals stops them from freezing shut. Just a touch as you don't want it on your clothes or more to the point on SWMBO's :-) I also lubricate handle mechanisms with graphite which though, not 100% seems to help. Then again, here in the UK we may get feet of rain but not necessarily the temperatures you are talking about for as long.

+ 1 for this!

I am in the process of changing to a turbo S rear lid/spoiler from stock so have been researching this! The plug, as Loren says, is above the light unit on the right side of the car. There are 14 pins, not all used. 13&14 are the engine bay light, 7&8 are your fan, 5&6 are the spoiler motor drive, 1&2&3&4 are the spoiler switch for sensing if it is up or down and to tell the other brake light to switch on (4) when the spoiler is up. 12 is the brake light power feed, they switch the earth. Colours of wires in the lid/ spoiler part seem random and depend on year of the part! You will have to have the spoiler function turned on again by PIWIS as it will have been disabled as you had a fixed spoiler. I hope all the above is correct as I intend to connect mine up soon to test it! Trust someone will shout if I've got it wrong! There are loads of other issues regarding fit etc but I will not hijack the thread. Shame you are in the USA I'd have had your kit off you to put on mine! C'est la vie!

Mine do it every time unless it is really hot and sunny (not that it is very frequently in the UK!) I just assumed it was because the pads are held very close to the discs with typical Porsche efficiency :rolleyes:

A flash cannot take into account the variation of manufacturing specs. A flash is based on published specs. An example being, Porsche is always economical with its performance figures, many magazine tests have returned far better figures than quoted by Porsche! Nothing is made to zero tolerance these days. A dyno is "real time" and can take into account all the various differences, wear etc that may be cancelling each other out, or adding to an error. I would suggest add parts, flash, then dyno to 'fine tune 'it all.

Hope these help! http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/268-summary-of-pcm21-updates/ http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/category/6-owners-manuals/ Tire pressure plate The tire pressure plate is attached to the left-hand door aperture. Paint data Paint data can be found on the tire pressure plate

Sounds as if the USA and UK are not so different after all! We got rid of our 'drunken sailor' doing the spending, but not before the damage was done, amazing how politicians CAN fool most of the people most of the time! If you can swim it, great! Let's have some immigrants we want! But bring the Porsche's too .

Don't know about where you are but here in the UK we have **** things called speed humps or sleeping policemen, it seems every 100 yards! They forced me to raise my Miata back up to stock as it was impossible to drive anywhere. The current climate here is if you are a motorist you are a criminal and the roads are for stupid people to wander about on, plugged into ipods and ignoring anything that should be on a road!! So, yes I appreciate both ends have to be done, it was vital on my 930 so assume 997 the same. Just don't think lowering the front is a practical solution, unless of course you have a source of really cheap front chins!

Found what I needed at 6speed online, apparently an expensive nightmare :eek: Re-think called for I think! Anyone recommend a spoiler that looks the part and not like a boyracer add on, which I'm afraid GT3 etc looks like to me.

Somewhat tempted to try to fit the rear spoiler/lid from a turbo to my S. Looked in PET and the basic lid seems the same except for the air intake from lid into the air box and the fan seems to be in a different place. Will the inner part of the lid transfer from one to the other or is that being really hopeful? :huh: I am assuming the electrics will be the same? I know that everything is possible but sometimes it is just not worth the effort! Thanks in advance for any help, even if it is " no you can't do it! Just go buy a turbo"

No, not in mine either, same model as you have. Dension or go down the scrap the PCM route. Personally gone Dension 500S as I wanted to retain the originality.

reading the manual it implies you are correct, if the positions have been programmed, I wonder if mine is a bit different as I have the sport chrono as well. M - Memory button 1 - Key button 2, 3 - Person buttons Seat Memory Individual seat and door mirror settings can be stored and recalled for the driver’s position. Further individual setting options are available in vehicles with the Sport Chrono package. Please observe the chapter “Individual Memory” in the separate PCM operating instructions. Warning! Risk of crushing due to uncontrolled recall of a seat setting. f Cancel automatic adjustment by pressing any of the seat adjustment buttons. f Do not leave children in the vehicle unattended. Operation with person buttons 2, 3 Storing seat position 1. Apply the handbrake. 2. Switch on ignition. Reverse gear must not be engaged. 3. Set the desired seat and door-mirror positions. 4. Keep memory button M depressed and additionally press person button 2 or 3. The individual setting is now stored under the desired person button. Recalling seat position 1. Switch on the ignition or open the driver’s door. 2. Press person button until the seat has reached its final position. The setting of door mirrors and lumbar support will be completed even if the person button is not kept depressed. Note Automatic seat adjustment can be interrupted immediately by releasing the button.

They do in my 2005 C2S so if you have the full memory seats as I do, then I guess so. They respond to individual keys as far as I know, not the other preset seat buttons on the door.

Don't despair, mine was so called bricked and I got it back by forcing it to re-load the original software and then went through the sequence from there. The only time it is a problem is when it kills the Bose amplifier which it can do on early versions if I recall. Over to you Richard H................. check this out http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/268-summary-of-pcm21-updates/

Now my 930, engine idling, up to temperature and you removed the oil filler cap and used the dipstick to check the level! Porsche " process of continual improvement" I think NOT !

Mijostyn, I don't wish to contradict but the below quote is from the manual, it states to check the oil cold (before embarking on a journey if the vehicle has not been driven for an extended period) ie. cold, or after refuelling ie hot. I have found that with mine measure at cold and it will indicate full then measure at hot and it indicates over full, so take your pick but they won't read the same! Oh for a dipstick again! Probably best to settle for under when cold and full when hot. Display and measurement of the engine oil level Caution! Risk of engine damage. f Regularly check the oil level after refuelling. f Do not allow the oil level to fall below the minimum mark. Conditions for measuring the oil level 1. It is important to ensure that the vehicle is horizontal for correct oil level measurement to occur. 2. Engine is off. 3. Ignition on. Oil return time Before the oil level is measured, the engine oil has to have flowed back into the oil pan. The time taken for the engine oil to flow back depends on the engine temperature and how long the engine has been stopped. This waiting time is counted down in the on-board computer display when the ignition is switched on. The oil level display segments start to "cycle". It is best to measure the engine oil level before embarking on a journey (if the vehicle has not been driven for an extended period) or with the engine at operating temperature. Shorter waiting times are achieved in this way. Initiating oil level measurement Switch ignition on (do not start the engine). The engine-oil level measurement display appears in the on-board computer. Allow waiting time to elapse. Once the measurement has been completed, you can read off the engine oil level on the segment display. – If the segments are filled in up to the top line, the oil level has reached the maximum mark. Under no circumstances add engine oil.