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Posts posted by swaff

  1. The fault ended up being resolved after changing out the ground cable at the battery.  The problem was intermittent, but finally I was able to run some tests while the symptoms were occurring, and a voltage drop test from the battery ground post to the other end of the ground cable was showing there to be as much as a 1.21 volt drop with many other significant drops along the way.


    To try the test on your own, with the car acting up, get a multimeter and touch the black probe directly to the battery's negative ground post and touch the red probe to the other end of the ground cable that connects it to the chassis.  Be sure to touch the black probe to the ground cable's metal end and not the bolt or post that secures it to the chassis.  You can then monitor and see if there are any voltage drops.  You shouldn't see any drops more than 0.5 volts.


    Much thanks to Ahsai for his extensive help on tracking down and solving this problem!


  2. I've been running 285x35x18 about a year now. The 285 rears fill up the wheel well nice in my opinion, and I've had no problems with scrubbing the fender. Switched to the 285 when I had a flat and got a used set of Michelin rears to try them out before getting new tires. Took me about 5-6 months to wear them down low enough to get a new set.

    Just recently went with the Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2 and have about 5k miles on them so far. Very pleased in this Georgia climate. So far, I've driven in heavy rain, sun, and some snow in Tennessee. I got the tires from Discount Tire and they matched the best price I could find on Amazon for both front and rears. Currently on 285x35x18 rears and 225x40x18 fronts. Stock 1999 911 Carrera C2 with stock twist wheels.

    Attached are some pictures so you can see the tire sizes in relation to the car.



  3. Keep on hauling!  I have put the same amount on mine in about the same time...in the same make and model!  I'm at 120k+ right now.  Had 69k when I bought it a year and a half ago.  Get ready for water pump replacement soon if it has the original still on there.  Hopefully the clutch will be much later, depending on how the car was driven before you.  Glad to see someone else enjoying the car the way it should be! :clapping:

  4. I did this trip in Fall of 2013 in a 1999 996.  Check out my route and sights visited more in depth here:  http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996/319426-porsche-7000-mile-cross-country-trip-done.html The car had 81k miles on it.  I just passed 120k last week.  Dang, I am driving this machine!  If you are interested, me and a few other Porsche owners are doing the trip again this Spring.  If you wanted to road trip down to Atlanta, you can go 3-4 deep with us all in our 911's.





  5. I was driving home tonight when all of a sudden all of the cluster lights went off and the engine died. Once stopped, I was unable to get the car to turn over at all.

    Battery reads 12v with ignition on, I tried installing a new ignition switch, and I checked fuse 1 on the E row of the fuse box (terminal 86s). The lights all cut on fine, and I hear a little motor when I put in the ignition, then it stops when I turn it. The engine will not click or anything. No noise when trying to start it.

    The other weird thing is that I get "link error" when I try to connect to the DME via my code reader. I also tried disconnecting the battery for a while. No luck.

    What should I check that would both make it die whle driving and also make it not turn over when I engage the ignition? The clutch switch seems to be ok, but if that was bad, it wouldn't make the car go dead while driving would it?

    Thank you for any help and suggestions.


  6. Hi Loren,

    I don't think a wire was loose when I reinstalled the electrical portion of the starter. I did that last August and have since driven the car 25k miles with no issues. I took the car to get the battery tested and attached are pictures of the readout. I do not think I had the lights on when I had the power dropout on my radio/instrument panel with the car off, but ignition left in the "on" position. The most baffling part was the dropout with the car not running.

    Why does the reading say "Good battery," but the "Battery Health" is rather low?




  7. I am having a weird issue in my 99 911 Carrera where I will lose power momentarily. From time to time, I will see the exterior lights flicker, instrument panel flicker, and if I let it idle for quite a while, sometimes the radio will turn off and back on, then the cruise control light will be on. The exterior lights from time to time will also slightly dim momentarily when I turn on a blinker signal.

    I initially thought this might be the alternator. My battery gauge is usually reading 13-14, but when the flicker behins to happen, it looks more like high 12's. A check at the auto store said the alternator was ok (they checked it at the battery with the car running), but when they checked it, I was not noticing any flickers.

    Tonight, I pulled in somewhere, and was on a call through the radio via Bluetooth. I turned the ignition far left, to turn off the engine, but left the key in so my radio would stay on and I could stay on the call. After a few minutes, with the car not even running, it did it....radio turned off and the illuminated instrument panel went dark and then back on. So that rules out the alternator since the car wasn't even running, right?

    Any ideas as to what I should look into? I changed the ignition switch to a new one (switch only, not the updated key cylinder/tumbler) back in August, but have read some people saying weird stuff happening could be the ignition. Anyone with thoughts?

    Thank you!


  8. Hey Ahsai, I am not sure of the difference between those two. I did see the "idle control valve" to the left of the throttle body when I was taking that stuff out, but was afraid to undo it since I didn't have a new, spare gasket to replace it with if the gasket was worn once removed. Where is the purge value?

    I looked for a tutorial on cleaning the idle control valve, but couldn't find one. Do you know of one or could you explain to me what I need to do?

    Thank you for helping me with this.


  9. I recently have been having more rough idle on my car and was wondering if it might be the 02 sensors. For a while, in the summer, when the car had been driven for a while, starting it up on first try or 2 the engine would crank but then immediately die, and then if I held the gas down a little while cranking, I could get it working. I cleaned out the throttle body, air filter, and MAF recently, but that didn't change the problem. After changing transmission fluid recently, the car ran really rough immediately after, not wanting to stay cranked unless I constantly pumped the gas, but then after about 5 min of that, the car stabilized and hasn't had that symptom anymore.

    I've attached a video of my diagnostic tool while the car is sitting at idle to see if anyone sees anything abnormal with the 02 sensors. I am not familiar with looking at this reading and being able to tell which 02 are the pre-cat and which ones are the post-cat. I'm at 90k miles. Any thoughts?



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