slbates

As you all know, the amount of load on any screw fastener can vary greatly with lubrication, thread condition, etc.)

BR

We tested several types of lubricants when I was in school and found that the type could cause wild swings in torque applied vs. elongation. Generic torque tables being used with lubricants is a recipe for disaster and can easily overstress a fastener. An article I read years later in AOPA (September 2000) seemed to have a very good discussion on the subject and is worth a quick read .

http://www.aopa.org/members/files/pilot/2000/anp0009.html

Thank you for the info gents, good stuff! I think I'lltake it to the dealer because spark plugs also need to be replaced and tierodends in the front are making a popping noise when cold. What's disturbing to meis that I have such issues(exclude the plugs) and the car only has 55K miles. Iguess even though the car is a garage queen things do go bad.

I had a similar leak on my 996 that was solved by updating the hose clamp. There is a TSB that covers this subject for the 996.

Will it be detrimental to the 3.4 L water cooled engine to use 100 LL gas on ocassions? I have removed the catalytic conveerter. Also, if I use it and mix it with 93 octane, will teh two mix or will the heavier 100LL sink to the bottom of the tank in a separate layer? I drive a 996 1999 with manual transmission and 81,000 miles. Thanks for any inputs.

I agree with logray. I have seen 100LL lead foul a plug firsthand Sometimes I would get lucky by doing a runup and leaning the mixture and sometimes my flight ended on the ramp due to lead fouling. The "low lead" is misleading.

Gates has a nifty polyrib checker. A belt may pass visual but the groove depths may be out of spec.

Your first number is not an engine number, it is the transmission type number

G9600 is for years 99-01

G9601 is for years 02-05

Normal, especially after sitting for a few days

As Paul said, held in by the adjusters. Buy new ones since the old ones tend to corrode. The 2 flat nuts with the shoulders are placed on each side of the tray and the knurled nut is actually the adjuster. It may be easier to remove the wheel liner to do the major adjusting to avoid numerous removals of the light to get it right.

Anyone change the idler pulleys on a 996 GT3? The nuts are blocked by a metal frame. How is this removed?

Are you talking about the one on the right? Offset box end wrench

Left=Idler center=tensioner right=idler

It will not work. The flex plate for the turbo is 9 bolt and yours is 8 bolt. The bell housing bolt pattern is different on the transmission housing. etc. etc.

I have Cargraphic (muffler p/n CARP996ETS)

They do not drone on the highway, but sound very aggressive otherwise (a little loud IMHO).

Hi people , hopefully someone can help me. I had a window regulator go on the drivers side. Got a replacement, fitted it, window sits nicely but when the window goes down , it stops leaving about 2 inches of window showing. Any ideas what I may have done wrong ? Porsche 996 c2

You need to remove the upper bump stop. New regulators come with two and are designed to work on both the Boxster and the 996.

My 2002 996 C4 Cab VIN WPOCA29922S652150 has Motor number AT66565018. Motor was said to have been replaced by Porsche in October 2005 prior to my purschase but I have no documents to prove this. Does the engine number tell you anything?

Expanding on what RFM said,

AT66565018

AT = Austauschmotor or exchange motor

1^st digit = number of cylinders

2^nd digit = normally aspirated

3^rd digit = 2005

4^th thru 8^th digits = serial number

Are the clear headlights for 1999-2003 996 interchangeable with the clear headlights from the same year Boxster? Any difference? I need a clear passenger side for my 996 and I found one new and it is about $60 cheaper for the Boxster light. It looks the same but I wanted to make sure. Thanks

Look at the pattern inside the housing. The 996 clear headlight has a diamond/grid pattern where the 986 clear headlight has a linear/fluted pattern for part number 986.631.132.14. Otherwise, they are interchangeable.

I agree with JFP. I happen to know for a fact the only thing that needs to be moved from the old engine (tiptronic) to the new is the water neck (see pic showing neck transferred to old engine for core return) on a factory reman. Seems like you are just getting a long block?? Didn't see this option available in the reman catalog

You cannot overrev a tip. Surely Porsche knows this. Even if you rapidly downshift multiple times, the tip logic will only downshift when safe to do so.

I just replaced mine this weekend. Popped the lid to check the oil and noticed the crust. You should be able to look at the catch area of the tank or see the obvious crust on the cap. Mine was an -01 cap and it leaked so I would take Loren's advice and replace with an -04 version.

As others have stated, you will notice a drop in your gas mileage. When I had my 996, I experienced 2 mpg drop with no other changes. One side effect I noticed was water accumulation in the winter. I had to start adding a bottle of heet every couple of tanks.

I feel your pain. I suffered a broken valve spring a few years back. A simple bore scope inspection revealed a shiny smile on the top of one piston. A compression test confirmed zero on that cylinder with the others being fine. I exchanged PM's with another person here who went the repair route vs. replace. You could do a search and probably find the postings concerning this same issue. If he is still on the board, he may be able to give you some ideas on cost. If I were you, I would replace all of the springs on both heads at a minimum.

BTW, my valve spring failure was not the result of an overrev....car was a Tip

You can download directly from Porsche.

http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porscheservice/maintenanceintervals/

Hello guys,

I have boght a 2004 ' Carrera in USA. I have no service book to that car. Do you have one to sell or do you know how can I get it? Maybe you can at least scan one of your page for service and I will multiplay it + title site? Please. My @ - afulneczek@porscheclub.pl

Regards,

adam

JFP is correct. Dealers have been using Techron for years and at one point in time actually issued a TSB naming Techron specifically. I had great luck with the stuff in my 911SC based on the local dealer's recommendation to use it right before an oil change. I drove the SC daily for several years found the Techron was a must to keep the k-jet working properly. Never had any issues with the injection (except a failed warm up regulator) and passed emissions with no problem. I also used Techron for years in my 996.

Ref. TSB 8510 issued Dec. 6, 1985

Thanks guys...I feel better.....I have learned much from my regular visits to this forum.

I wouldn't worry too much. I have 7 Type II's recorded at 0.1 hours. This likely occurred at the factory since it happened somewhere between 0 and 6 minutes

You should have replaced the spring clamps with the screw type clamps. There is a TSB that covers the size/part numbers.

Been searching for awhile now regarding those digital display values for my 2001 996. Anybody else have any luck, and what did you type in for the search? Thanks, any help is much appreciated. Been getting up to 104 degrees centigrade on the digital readout display. This is after maybe 30 minutes driving in moderate traffic with around 80 degree weather after dark. After it peaks at 104 centigrade it slowly goes down to 96 - 98 centigrade. The temp needle covers the right edge of the 0 of the 180 mark at 104 centigrade digital readout. Can this be normal? Had my coolant flushed, new coolant tank and cap done about 6 months ago. Radiator areas are clean and like new. I am starting to think I am worrying too much about the temperature, but is there is anything that can be done to bring it down a bit? I would hope that if Porsche thought a normally aspirated 996 needed a third radiator they would have designed it that way and included it from the factory.

The high speed fans (AC off) do not even come on until 102 centigrade. You are worrying too much. BTW the digital readout on the AC display does not agree exactly with the DME temp readouts I have taken. They must come from different source inputs.

On the Mk I edition of 996 cars (which a 1999 is), you can get a digital temperature reading, and other readings. I learned this from a thread at rennlist.

You use the climate control system in the car. Here's how. Press and hold both the recirculation button, and the top (arrow up) buttons on the right side of the panel for a few seconds. The left screen will change. Pressing the + and - keys below that screen will make the display different numbers from 0 (i.e. zero) to 36, each beside a letter "C". The reading 6c is the one you want. At 6C, or any other reading, then press the center vent button once. The display will change and show you your coolant temp in centigrade. (The other values possible I've not used much.)

I just learned of this functionality, and was surprised to see that the coolant temperature may exceed 100 degrees C in slow stop/go traffic. The temperature gauge on the dash at that point reads in or to the right hand edge of the 0 in 180.

My 99 996 after about 30 minutes in metro traffic (avg speed 12 mph per OBC), OAT at 98F per OBC

--> DME values (not AC diagnostics) shows 207F coolant temp, IAT shows 156F, engine cooling fan came on while plugging reader into OBDII port

Dashboard gauge was around mid way on the zero

I have a 1999 996 C2 Tiptronic. I have to replace the transmission and I can't afford the Porsche Dealer quote of $8,300. Any suggestion or do you know anyone in Virginia or North Carolina that is good?

Make sure you really need to change the transmission. Tips do not frequently fail, but can exhibit symptoms of failure. I am not saying the shop doesn't know what they are doing, but just may not have that much exposure to Tips. It would be extremely hard to become an expert on Porsche Tip issues with very limited exposure.

Are there any codes? CEL on? There are numerous things that can cause problems that do not require a new transmission. As an example, pressure regulator 4 can fail causing a CLC lockup not to work. This could be interpreted as slipping since the converter doesn't lockup as expected (about a $500 fix).

Another example, if the brake light switch is intermittent, the automatic downshift does not work properly.

Yet another, if a wheel speed sensor fails (P1710 right front or P1715, left front), then your tip shift buttons on the steering wheel will not work I chased this gremlin through wiring diagrams, fluid change, harness check, etc. Finally found it reading the OBD II section on Tip diagnostics, which is over 100 pages.

After nearly a decade of metro traffic, I have only had the wheel speed sensor issue and intermittent brake light switch issue.

You do have options for a rebuilt unit out there with the updated ZF parts.

http://www.freddiestransmissions.com/html/zf_5hp19.html

http://www.europeantransmissions.com/

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata...smissions.html

Please keep in mind, not all problems throw a light, but will produce a code.

Codes that do not trigger a light :

P0710

P0740 (note this code was thrown by faulty regulator 4)

P1602

P1656

P1704

P1710

P1715

P1744

P1761

P1762

P1764

P1765

P1770

P1828 (short to B+ only, short to ground throws a light)