slbates

I have the same problem. Took it to the dealer in February and they replaced the ignition switch but it still has same intermittent problem. Took back to the dealer today and they again replaced the ignition switch. I'm skeptical that I've had two bad ignition switches but I guess I'll see it the problem persists.

It can happen..I am on number 4. I have only replaced the switch in lieu of the entire mechanism that is supposedly the fix. I will do it the proper way next time

Some good advice above. Also check your oil filler tube. If it is original, you may have cracked it when you changed the air filter.

I need the one with the white arrow which is the tensioner roller.

Note that my altenator does not have a freewheel pulley as far as I can see.

See below picture of alternator wihout cap so this is the confusing part in ordering the correct pulley.

It does not matter. The freewheel pulley was an attempt to end some early belt shredding issues. Replacement 3.4 engines, whether manual or tip now come with the freewheel pulley. A separate replacement engine for tips was halted years ago...same engine with a wiring harness compatible for both.l

I see you just had your engine replaced. Are you sure the trans fluid refill was done correctly? The ZF tips are insanely sensitive to correct fluid levels and a lot can go wrong in a real hurry if the refill was not done exactly per Porsche procedures.

How many miles after the rebuild before you started having trouble?

You did not mention if you had any tip codes present. As an example, a bad pressure regulator 4 can give symptoms of a failing torque converter and is not a costly fix. I have spoken to at least 3 owners that had been told a new tranny was in order when the only thing needed was a new pressure regulator 4.

You do have a couple of good options for rebuilds. I have never had the need at this point, but I keep info handy from others experiences just in case.

http://www.freddiest...l/zf_5hp19.html

http://www.peterschmid.com/

Please note Freddie's updates known factory problems in lieu of just replacing the minimum parts.

Before you throw away a perfectly good transmission, check the simple stuff first. Have someone knowledgeable check the fluid level. Make sure the vacuum lines to the switch over valve are not hooked up backwards. The fluid will overheat, leading to certain failure if they are installed wrong.

If you decide on a rebuilt unit, speak with the shop before you get the work done. Ask them about the filling procedure. Ask them about the switchover valve connections. Ask them about the locating pins for the torque converter and crankshaft. If they cannot answer correctly, find another shop.

The special tools are needed for pre 03 M96 engines: 1) to hold the camshafts in place while removing the valve covers, except by the both separate front bearings, the shafts are only hold by the covers inside bearings which are build as a one part unit, the tools prevent the shafts to jump off timing. ( from 03 the shafts are hold by separate bearings, the covers can be removed without tools) 2) they are needed to work on the gearing of the shafts (loosen and fasten) 3) work on the timing chain/adjuster to prevent off timing jump created by a loose chain.

Use the TDC pin on the front of the engine, to lock the crankshaft and the lock tool on the rear of the camshafts, the timing will always be as it should without problems. Boxer engines can be placed on TDC in two different positions, depending which cylinder bank, TDC END COMPRESSION is what you need and difficult to see without removing the valve cover, with the tools it's piece of cake and 100% safe. Without the tools is it a matter of luck, it can end badly.

RFM

Aircraft Spruce sells a neat little gizmo that is foolproof for determining TDC. It will whistle when #1 is on the compression stroke. This is fairly easy to determine by turning the engine with a ratchet with all plugs removed. I first saw this used at the motor barn at the local FBO many years ago.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/compressionwhistle.php

I know I can't be the only person with this problem.

I just bought a stunning 99 996 Aero that has 14k miles. It is darn near flawless, but the aluminum look lever for the entry to the front compartment is showing wear (couple scratches and some flaking). The dealer tells me I can only buy the door trim panel with both levers and the memory seat panel for about $700. Maybe he's right. I wouldn't let it bother me if the rest of the car wasn't so perfect. Anyone have a better solution, or any solution? I can't believe you can't buy the lever and a cable fo this thing--do customers really fess up $1000 when they can't get their hood or engine compartment open?

Thanks for any hlep or PN's on this.

ebay seller msroadrace has the for $221. No affiliation with this store.

Hi,

I just read about fixing my steering wheel horn by changing the bushings. The problem is that I can't seen to get to the two screws in the back. I tried a phillips screw driver without luck. Does anybody know if it's phillips or some special screwdriver you have to use?

I have a 1999 carrera 4 convertible.

Thanks

Kristian

1999 air bag bolt is a T-30 (p/n 999.073.134.02)

It takes quite a bit of torque to get them out. The replacement bolts also come with blue thread locker already on the bolts (grade 8.8)

+1 on the ignition switch. I am on number 4 now and will likely change the whole assembly next go around. The switch life is totally unpredictable. Switch is easy to change (yeah I have lots of practice). I just slide the vent duct out of the way to change the switch. You may want to pick up a Picquic Teeny Turner.

Thanks everyone, going to the parts store to look for a smaller clamp....

Porsche issued a TSB on the spring clamps a few years ago. I had a couple of hoses start to leak and replaced the spring clamps with the screw type clamps listed in the TSB. None of the clamps I replaced have leaked since and that has been several years ago (circa 2005). The Porsche clamps are not as wide as the ones you will find at your local parts store (only about 3/8" wide).

I purchased a set of Powergrid adjustable links and have been happy with the quality and design. My 996 is a daily driver and I needed a set that would last and not succumb to the environment. The Powergrid deign is well suited for my application.

My previous adjustable set wore out very quickly due to road grit/grime and water intrusion into the heim joint. Under different conditions they may have lasted a lot longer so I will refrain from disclosing the brand.

Read some posts about replacing the o2 sensor.

It was suggested to remove the cat. first.

Has anyone did it without removing the cat.?

I can reach in with a 22mm fix wrench, but not strong enough.

Got the sensor socket, but no enough room.

Any good suggestion?

thx,

Simon

You don't need to remove the cats. An O2 crows foot and the proper extensions will get the job done. You do need to remove the air box.

When my drivers side failed, I had the grinding noise and no drop when opening or closing the door. When the passenger side failed about a month later it would not move at all. I could not move the window by pushing or pulling. The cable had broken a strand or two and had hopelessly jammed.

Applying brake pedal stalls car when cold but restarts with no problem and also seems to go away most of the of the time when it is warmed up. Anyone had this problem.

I had this problem on another car several years ago. It was the power brake booster. Hitting the brakes at idle introduced a big vacuum leak.

My '99 tiptronic is overdue for a tiptronic oil/fluid change (also the transmission is acting a bit hesitant). I called Marvin at RennShop but it's $620 there and a 2.5 week wait. So I gave the dealership a call and they told me: $450. I asked them to confirm that this drains the tiptronic fluid and differential and only got a vague reply "it drains both".

Since it is a little hesitant and money is tight, I'm thinking of going the dealership route, but would like to understand if draining the tiptronic fluid also drains the differentiate at the same time. I've looked over past threads but can't find a definitive answer.

I would be concerned if the dealer did not know the two are different. I would query them on the procedure for changing the fluid and see what they say. I have seen a few ZF tips destroyed by incorrect fill procedures. They are very sensitive to fill levels and if they botch the job you will soon have a very expensive paper weight. A drain & fill guy is your worst nightmare.

Hi:

I was cleaning leaves out of the water drain tubes of my 1999 C4 Cab and accidentally pushed in the grommet next to the battery. I was unable to retrieve it and obtained a new one from the dealer. 996.504.645.00 grommet -- US MSRP $1.61. Does anyone have a trick for installing the thing? It seems very large for the opening and I'm having no luck forcing it in. I've tried dishsoap and KY but no luck. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

There is an updated grommet for the early 996. I don't remember which years this applies to, but if you look at the picture you can tell if you have the latest. There is also a clear plastic cowl plug that keeps leaves and other debris from entering via the VIN ID cutout. Both improve the dreaded water back up problems.

I just replaced the fan resistor on my 996 as well. I have added a couple of pics to go with Perry's post.

As Loren and JeTexas have said, start with the old battery. If you have a VOM, check the voltage after first turning on the headlights for 30 seconds. This will burn of the surface charge of the battery.

Voltage Charge Specific Gravity

12.6 100% 1.28-1.26

12.45 75% 1.25-1.23

12.30 50% 1.22-1.20

12.15 25% 1.19-1.17

As you can see, if you have less than 12.3 volts your car will not start. A sulphated battery will often indicate a good voltage but will not start a car due to high resistance caused by sulphation and the high current draw required to start a car. Your starter will draw 200+ amps to start. If you have an ammeter, check to see the draw to the starter. I have a Craftsman 73756 that works great and is more accurate than the old Snap-on inductive ammeter set I had.

I have had two problems that have caused no starts on my 996. The first was a battery with a dead cell. I had taken my car to the dealer for the gas cap recall and the tech drove the car to the customer pick-up after changing the cap. The car would not start when I tried to leave. All lights worked, but nothing from the starter. A specific gravity test (in my presence) showed a cell had packed it up. Convenient that I was at the dealer for a free gas cap, but costly since they only sold Porsche batteries. The second issue I have had is ignition switch failures (4 of them). This is a quick fix and I can do it is about 10 minutes, but the next one that goes in will be the full assembly.

Please note that a jump start my not work with a battery that has a dead cell or has an internal failure due to the high current draw. Also, check your battery terminals for oxidation when you change the battery. Poor connections (or bad grounds) will cause a no-start.

Recently brought a MY01 convertible from auction., one of the tire has a nail in it and need to be patched., sadly. the car has no wheel lock key or spare wheel attached I guess someone must have stolen it

My MY99 wheel lock key dosen't work, I assume its a different set of combination, I would like to know is there any way to get another key?

Option 1 Look in your owners manual for the Schlussel-Codekarte. It will have an 8 digit code that the dealer can use to order a new lock key if your lock nuts are in good condition.

Option 2 As others have stated, take it to the dealer and they can remove the locks with a master key set they keep in a red plastic blowmolded case.

Option 3 If you are not in a hurry, order an emergency lug nut remover. The 1" size works on the wheel lock. An impact wrench works a bit better with the remover in lieu of a breaker bar. This is the same thing the tire shops and AAA will use to remove the wheel locks for drivers stuck out on the road. Will cost you $5 for a set of two (13/16" and 1")

I used to have a mid engine Lancia. When you changed the coolant there was a bleed vent/screw at the top furthest point in the front radiator to make this process easy. Does the Boxster have a similar way of doing it? I'm not find changing the coolant in my manual (Sure it's there)

Dan

There is a bleed valve on top of the coolant tank.

Latch it in the open position for a few days being sure to top up the tank daily. When the level stops going down you can close the valve.

BTW... it does not hurt to drive with the valve in bleed position - Cup Car racers do it all the time.

+1 Loren

I ran with the bleed valve open for several weeks when I had a cracked coolant tank with no issues. The tank did not leak with valve open (not under pressure) and allowed me to replace the tank at my leisure.

Back to the OP. I wonder how many engines have been tossed due to misdiagnosed failure mode or just the economics of the replacement program? I spoke to an owner who had been diagnosed with a cracked sleeve which turned out to really be a oil cooler failure.

Back years ago, nobody would toss an entire engine due to a failed valve spring due to replacement cost but that scenario is likely highly played out today. In 1995 a factory rebuilt 911SC motor was about $15k.

Engine which were reconditioned by Porsche lack cosmoline but are also identifiable by "AT" in the engine serial number. If I remember right an engine which was reconditioned would have a serial number starting with M96/01AT then be followed by the production number.

PTEC remembers correctly, including the sequence. AT means "Austauschmotor"

I will have to look and see if I can find the info. I bought them several years ago. They are held on with spring clips. I have been able to find replacement clips over the years for ones that have been lost or got knocked off.

They look like the ones I got from Mid America Motorworks, but they don't seem to list Porsche stuff any more. I lost some clips from mine, so I'd be interested to know where you got replacement clips from.

Richard,

I got the spring clips from Sears Hardware. I just found my last 10 pak in the garage so now I have a total of 12 clips. The old clips have the following marking on the leg:

170-205

T

The clips from Sears only seem to have the numerical portion stamped on the clips. I measured both with a dial caliper and following are the dimensions:

Width=0.500"

leg = 0.440"

thickness=0.140"

The dimensions are exactly the same as part #1175 shown on e qual fast website. Hope this helps.

John,

I think you may have had an adjustment issue. My 99 came with the accordian style pipes you mention before they failed due to age. I do not believe your problem was related to smooth vs. accordian. As 1999 said above, the newer mufflers fit just fine on a 996 Tip. As he mentioned, the mounting bracket is slightly different on the earlier cars, so just use your old ones to avoid alignment issues. The GHL's fitting perfectly fine on the Tip cars with no issues.

I will have to look and see if I can find the info. I bought them several years ago. They are held on with spring clips. I have been able to find replacement clips over the years for ones that have been lost or got knocked off.

What year/model is your car?

For a 99 C2:

Bosch #13564 (before cat) about $108

Bosch #13723 (after cat) about $81

Hint: Look on Amazon

I am in my 8th winter dring my 996 C2. Like many others, I also run 17" Blizzaks. I have run Pirelli but have found them to be very noisy after 3-4k miles. I think the Blizzaks are a bit better as far as traction goes as well. Snow over 6" deep along with frozen chunks of ice can easily damage the plastic undertrays. Mine ave a zip-tie or two holding them in place. I would also recommend the clip on mud flaps. The go on/off easily and will avoid sand blasting the rear bumper behind the wheels. They use a salt/sand mixture here and it is very hard on the paint if use don't put them on.