slbates

Crank pin-fillet-web type failures are not uncommon when combined with the number of cycles this engine was exposed. This crank was probably run at near max rpm for its entire life and could easily have failed due to cyclic/fatigue failure.

The cranks are dropped forged in the 996 engine (Ref. PNA 499 921) and the rods are forged as well. I am not sure what your referenct to powdered cranks implies. I would be interested in seeing your comparisons of crank torsional vibrations up to the 8th order with and without the damper in place.

A slight hesitation between second and third gear is typical for ZF Tiptronic's but they do it all of the time and not only when cold.

I agree with RFM...mine has done this since I bought it in 2001. Annoying but normal.

The whole lock assembly is US MSRP $135.81. 996.347.017.07

Thanks Loren. I was thinking it would be close to $500 including labor, since replacing the whole lock assembly is probably beyond my meger mechanical abilities.

I am on #4 now. The last one did not exhibit any electrical gremlins but it the key kept getting stuck. Although I can change it out in less than 10 minutes, it has turned into a PITA. I am tired of carrying a spare in the door bin! I plan to replace the entire assembly next time which is what I should have done in the first place.

You can access the o2 wires easily if you remove the airbox. This is easy to do. The o2 socket may not remove the sensor if it has been in there a long time. I had to replace 3 of the 4 sensors due to aging at 90k miles or so. The socket just rounded the corners on one of the sensors, but I was able to remove it with a 6" pipe wrench (don't laugh) with ease.

I removed the passenger seat, pulled back the carpet to extract water from the foam backing (extracted two soaking wet towels).

I've located the problem.

It is a crack in the ac condensation plastic drip pan or tray. I'm probably going to use silicone to seal for now.

Does anyone know how much a lower clamshell of the evaporator housing?

Is it difficult to remove?

Thanks,

ken

ken,

I had the same thing happen 5 or 6 years ago and I fixed the crack with Plumbers Goop (purple tube). It has remained leak free since and my car is driven daily. I'm not sure I woud go to the trouble of replacing the evap coover unless you can't get the leak to stop.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=10509&hl=

Loren is correct. The two alts are different. The manual is a different design to reduce shedding the belts. Porsche also made a few other changes to help with the belt shedding but I can't remember exactly what the were. You can use the manual alternator on the Tip, but not a Tip on a manual. Porsche only ships one replacement engine for both the manual and the tip and it has the manual alternator attached.

gaspasser19,

I did the job myself in about 8 hours. The most difficult part was the lower bolt in the rear shock. There are several good shops in northern Virginia if you want to venture that far.

I have used Pirelli and Blizzaks for winter tires. The Blizzaks are far better than the Pirellis and have not developed the roar that forced me to dump the Pirellis long before they were worn out. I also use 17" rims for winter use.

The coolant sensor on my 99 is a dry sensor and has no seal. I confirmed this via a pressure test before I installed the new tank without the sensor in place.

The rivets are two piece with a plastic expansion plug along with a plastic screw. The plastis screw has a phillips head. I keep spares since I have torn mine off once or twice. The plastic screws will spare any damage to the bumper. If you are lucky enough not to run over the lip, you can just re-install if you have sares. As Loren said, they are really cheap. You may want spares for such occasions. :D

Is the check engine light on? Was the car down on power a bit? If so, it could be a broken valve spring. It is not common, but possible. A broken spring is not terminal but is not a cheap fix either.

Do you have a part number?

Lee,

the part numbers for my 99 were 996.542.076.04 and 996.542.075.04 on the invoices from Sunset.

I changed the regulator myself. It starts to make squeak noises and then it gets really loud! If you can follow the instructions on installing and removing interior door panels on the forum you can change

the regulator. It took me about 1 hour on a sunday morning.

Thanks for the information. I’m sure I can change it out without too much problems. I’m curious as to what goes bad on the regulator. Any thoughts?

Thanks

Lee

Lee,

It starts out as a squeak and gets progressively louder until the window just quits working completely. My drivers side failed and one month later the passenger side failed. Upon disassembly, I found both cables frayed (see photo). The passenger side gave a bit of warning prior to the squeak by not dropping automatically when closing the door. It took me about 1.5 hours for each side.

I am planning to lower my 2004 996 and while doing research I found some data showing that the 02-04’s are about a half inch higher than the 99 – 01 models. Please see the PCA article “996 Standard and Sport Suspensions Analyzed”. I confirmed this by taking measurements of my 04 and a friend’s 99. Both have stock standard (non-m030) suspension, same O.D. tires, etc. The 04 was 27/26.6in front/rear and the 99 was 26.5/26.23. Next we removed the wheels and took dimensions of the front strut and did not find any differences. The only difference was the markings on the springs. Both were blue and brown on the bottom but the 99 has white on the top and the 04 was blue. Therefore we concluded the difference in height was only due to the springs.

Eibach and H&R offer only one p/n for the 996 and advertise lowering by 1.0” and 1.25”, respectively. Since there were no dimensional differences between the 99 and 04 front struts, I assume that the fender heights of the 99-01 and 02-04 models will be the same after installing any of these aftermarket springs.

I thought it would be helpful and interesting to get some replies of height data, model year and suspension type.

2004 996 C2 Coupe 6sp Standard Suspension – 27 inch front / 26.6 rear

My 99 996 C2 measures 26 3/8" up front and 26 1/8" rear with factory 18" wheels, nearly new Conti's. and US M030 suspension. The US version retains the stock ride height and I had no change after the swap (except much better handling). This is as low as I want to go since I scrape the concrete apron of my driveway unless I approach at an angle.

Check for a loose rear swaybar.

Hmm I replaced the sway bars with 030 sways was part of the X74. So I know they are tight.

However, I had to reuse my original bushings, maybe they are bad.

If your stock bushings were not worn, they may be slightly binding a bit since the rear swaybar is larger. When I tried this on my 996, the sway bar did not move freely with the stock bushings when I checked before hooking up the drop links. After I put on the correct bushings, the rear bar moved snug but freely.

I have a 1999 Carrera that seems to be running a little hotter than normal, around 190 degrees instead of the normal 180 degrees. Seems to run hotter when driving at 50 miles an hour then cools slightly when you slow down to 25 miles an hour.

I looked at the engine compartment and noticed the fan was not running.

Wondering if this is normal or should the fan be operating when the engine temp is at 190 degrees. If so, any ideas on how to troubleshoot? I'm thinking it could be a blown fuse, but not sure which fuse is for the engine fan.

Any suggestions?

thank you,

steve

190 is quite normal

I have attached some info I got back several years ago from the dealer. Loren, please correct anything that may be out of date.

Engine Temperature

Ambient temperature approx. 20° C (68° F)

Engine Idling @ 680 rpm (+/-20)

Coolant temperature 90-95° C (194-203° F)

All loads switched off.

Electric fan, speed 1

Coolant temperature higher than 96.75° C or air conditioning switched on.

Electric fan, speed 2

Coolant temperature > 102° C or air-conditioning fluid pressure switch closed (coolant pressure > 16 bar).

I would take it to AutoSportsystems Group (ASG) in Fairfax. I have been using them since 1996 for both air cooled and watercooled 911's. Taylor and Geoff have done all of the work on my 996 since 2001.

is this the one?

Auto Sportsystems Group

2810 Dorr Ave Suite F

Fairfax, VA 22031(703) 876-2811

thank, nice to know someone lives close

That is the place.

I am going to buy the 2001 911 Carrera 4, since the vibrating (make me feel the back of the car vib left, right, left) of the engine is kind big, I want to send to a trusted tech to look at.

should i send to porsche dealer or this place who just do the porsche (any in VA, heard of them?)

http://www.autobahnserviceinc.com/

Founded in November 1991, Autobahn Services Inc. is an independent Porsche® facility ....

3158 Spring Street, Suite A

Fairfax, Virginia 22031

703-691-1771

I would like to let dealer to do the PPI, but something, dealer service people may know nothing, but reading the code.

thanks

I would take it to AutoSportsystems Group (ASG) in Fairfax. I have been using them since 1996 for both air cooled and watercooled 911's. Taylor and Geoff have done all of the work on my 996 since 2001.

Hi All.. does any of you guys know a good trustworthy indie porsche specialist in northern VA area? Thanks in advance...

Hph

We have several good shops in NoVA. I haved used ASG exclusively (since 1996) for both air cooled and water cooled 911's for minor and major work. They have always done excellent work and have never given me a reason to go elsewhere. They are located in Fairfax, phone 703-876-2811.

Any recommendations?

replace the seal, and drive the car as is until it locks up?

I don't have the extra $10k laying around. I wish Porsche would still pay half. but with me being the second owner, and it out of warranty, I don't see this happening.

Ok You say you have all the service records. Has the rear main seal been replaced before? If so, how many times? Is the current seal the latest version? Concerning the CEL, have the coil packs ever been replaced? Has the MAF ever been replaced? Do you have all of the codes from the PST2? I suggest you get a lot more info before making a decision. If this is the original seal at 68k miles and is just now beginning to leak, then I doubt the crank is way out of whack. The go/nogo tool is not a failsafe determing factor for a bad engine. You could replace the seal with the latest version and not have a problem for the next 68k miles. You cannot always trust the dealer. They are only as good as the tech who is looking at your car.

I scanned a friends car (not a 996) to give him a second opinion on a $2300 dollar estimate to fix emission related problems diagnosed by the tech (car would not pass with a CEL). My cheap scanner diagnosed a code which could be caused by a bad gas cap. New cap and $15 later no CEL.

You should get the codes and fuel trim values and post them here. Dig a little deeper into the problem before the dealer just starts replacing parts.

Are you positive it is the tank? Did you replace the spring clamps with the screw type clamps in the TSB? I had trouble with the spring clamp leaking after a tank install on my 996. Screw clamps ordered from the TSB solved the problem.

Hello every one, is there anyone out there with a 996 with more then 150k miles on it ??

my daily driver 996 is hitting 130k this week and i want to see should i keep it and get the Suspension Kits - ROW M030 98-01 and keep driving it or should i sell it and get newer one ??

thanks

fred k

· Model year, 2000

· Body Style, C2 Coupe

· Transmission type, Tiptronic

· Country specific information US

Fred,

I would put the M030 suspension on the car and keep it. The suspension and sway bars improve the handling dramatically. I put the M030 on the car with the idea that I was going to sell the car and a fresh suspension would be a plus on a 100k plus car. Changed my mind 2 weeks later, although I will admit the 997 I test drove was a great handling car.

The car only has 35k miles. What kind of internal failure did it have?

I had the same mufflers on my 99 3.4 as shown in your picture. If they have a lot of miles on them, I would not modify them. Mine suffered an internal failure and were replaced with GHL's. Try to find a low mile set of 3.6 mufflers in lieu of modifying those, remember they are 10 years old now.

I didn’t cut the cans open but I suspect an internal weld broke. The muffler developed a horrible rattle. Although your mufflers have considerably less miles them, they are still 10 years old.

Yes, 1124/6. Thanks Loren.

I pulled the airbox out, cleaned the MAF and the O2's.

There also seemed to be a small leak at the filter on the back right of the airbox.

It's all back together now and the car feels like it's gained some pep. Maybe it's just in my head, though.

Thanks!

SNaray:

If you have to get the 02 sensors, don't spend the extra money for the "Porsche" part with the Porsche Part number. Get the equivalent Bosch part. Same part, but no Porsche box or part number stamped on it. Porsche does not manufacture 02 sensors, Bosch does. The Bosch part is exactly the same, and has the correct connector.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice, good point. I found the Bosch part number to be significantly cheaper. I will have to look, but I think I found them for around $110 +/- last year.

For a 99 996 C2 I purchased the following:

Bosch #13564 ( before cat)

Bosch #13723 (after cat)

Maurice is correct that the box does not have a Porsche part number anywhere but the sensor itself is stamped with several different numbers including the Porsche part number. For example, Bosch #13723 has the following numbers stamped/engraved on the sensor ( as best I could read them at the time) :

LSH 25

993.606.118.01

0 258 003 723

5812833 12v 982

Lastly, the Bosch part number sensors I purchased were made in the USA in lieu of Germany. Both sensors were plug and play and came withe the correct connectors to plug directly into the harness.

I had the same mufflers on my 99 3.4 as shown in your picture. If they have a lot of miles on them, I would not modify them. Mine suffered an internal failure and were replaced with GHL's. Try to find a low mile set of 3.6 mufflers in lieu of modifying those, remember they are 10 years old now.