Mikluuutus

A cracked diaphragm spring is in such case mostly the culprit.

Where is this spring located exactly? Do I need whole clutch kit to get it fixed?

Hi,

I'm having clutch problem with my Boxster S, 6-speed (year 2000) with only 90 000 km (~56 000 miles) on the clock.

All started one day when driving normally on a highway and taking exit. I pressed clutch pedal and it felt spongy and like it was going to stay down. It had pretty much zero feel. Before this no problems what so ever and now all of sudden this started.

I called a local guy who have been servicing the car if I had any problems and we discussed it might be either main or clave cylinder so I ordered new ones from Ebay and continued driving. There wasn't any leaks from these two. I had to wait new cylinders to arrive and continue driving. Clutch stayed the same, still zero feel but it didn't go any worse and it also returned every time when pressed down although it always felt it's gonna stay down.

Both cylinders arrived and went to change those. Got new parts in place and bled the system. Slave cylinder was pretty hard to install to it's place, should it be? Like when the metal pin was in the hole you had to seriesly push the whole thing with fingers to get slave cylinder bolt to it's place (otherwise it was like 4 cm off from the correct place)

Cylinder replacement made clutch feel a bit better but still it didn't returned what it was before all this started.

Went for a test drive and only now I realized to try hard acceleration. When changing 1st -> 2nd and pressing throttle to the floor noticed a huge clutch slip. Clutch slippage also occured what ever gear when flooring the throttle. We lifted the car back up and took slave cylinder out. We took the metal center pin from the old clutch cylinder and used that since it was shorter than the one which the new slave cylinder had. We thought the metal pin might be too long and therefore the clutch is not fully released although clutch pedal isn't pressed.

So went with the shorter one now. Still slave cylinder was a bit tight to get in the place but lot easier than with the longer metal pin.

This also corrected the slippage a lot but still especially 1st -> 2nd gear hard accleration I get clutch slipping. Not so much on the higher gears but varies. Sometimes it slips and sometimes it doesn't on higher gears like in 4th gear.

Is there anything I can do do besides taking transmission out and replacing the clutch, and also flywheel? IMS will have to be done at the same time if we have to go there. Could the problem still be in the slave cylinder and is there any tips I could confirm the situation it's the worn clutch causing all the problems? It feels a bit strange cause the problem started all at once. One clutch pedal push down and it went spongy and lost it feel. Shouldn't clutch disc problems develop slower?

Thanks in advance!

Anyone? Any tips where to start?

Having problem with passenger's side door, door doesn't open.

Using remote to lock the doors, everything goes locked. Trying to open the doors, everything opens but passenger side door doesn't, car give 2 beeps.

Door won't open from inside or outside handle. It just refuses to open. When pressin opening button from the remote, you can hear something is moving there but door refuses to open. Been driving 3 weeks without getting passenger door open, then suddenly one day it opens normally. After driving locked the doors -> again same problem, passenger door won't open. Used car for two weeks and one beautiful morning it opened again. What's wrong with it, what do you suggest to do?

Here is the picture of Alarm input signals, when both doors closed: http://www.amigosracing.eu/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/021013_MLM991.jpg

I'm wondering why driver's side says door secured but passenger side don't?

And here is the fault codes:

Alarm I32
Module Identification
Part Number 996.618.260.06
Supplier Part Number 080504003007

Current Fault Codes
60
Central locking limit position Lock not reached
Status: present
Occurance Counter: 1

47
Control locking synchronization
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 2
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

1
Door(s) secured and terminal 15 on
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 2
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

33
Interior sensor faulty
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 6
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

59
Central locking limit position Secure not reached
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 2
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

48
Airbag signal acknowledged
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 2
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

10
Voltage failure at terminal 30 with alarm system active
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 3
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

43
Alarm actuation by passenger's door
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 3
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

44
Alarm actuation by driver's door
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 1
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

61
Central locking limit position Unlock not reached
Status: not present
Occurance Counter: 3
This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.


Thanks!

Does anyone of you happen to know if 19" wheels fit Boxster S, year 2000?

front: 9x19 ET53
rear: 10x19 ET38

Ebay say it does but can I trust that? I know they fit to Boxster 2.7L from year 2000 but what about the S model?

Thanks!

I'm buying winter wheels for Boxster S (year 2000) and would like to know more about what wheel sizes I can use. Manual says only these sizes:

17-inch:
front 7Jx17
rear 8.5Jx17
Offset 55mm, 48mm, 50mm

18-inch:
front 7.5Jx17
rear 9Jx17
offset 50mm, 52mm

Now I'm specially interested can I put 16-inch wheels like these:
front 6x16, offset 50mm
rear 7x16, offset 40mm
without any modifications (spacers etc.)?

or can I put these kind of 17-inch wheels?:
front 6.5x17, ET55
rear 8x17, ET40
without any modifications (spacers etc.)?

Does the car's behaviour change a lot if I choose to take either those 16-inch wheels or those 17-inch wheels specified there or do they even fit to the car straight away?

Thanks in advance!

I also noticed now that when I leave lights on (from the light switch) and get out of the car, normally I get a beeping sound my head and taillights are still on but now there is now sound at all.

So could the problem be in light switch actually? Does it have some kind of effect to the instrument panel?

Hi all!

I'm having big troubles with my Boxster S year 2000 instrument panel. The other day when I switched the car on, all of the three LCD-displays went into a state they don't show any digits at all. I can see background light is on for every LCD display. Also speedometer and rev needles doesn't move at all. Only needles working are petrol and temperature needles. Blinker lights work and also other background lights work in the instrument panel.

When I switch the car off and get out and lock the doors, these three LCD-displays have still their background light on. Only way to switch those lights off is to take battery off for a second.

Anyone know what's wrong with it? Do I need to buy new expensive instrument panel? Could it be some fuse or the ignition switch? All the other electrical stuff in the car works fine except the back trunk indication (indicates open all the time).

Thanks in advance!