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I used to have just the wiring diagram for PSE of 997.1. Since you need it for a 997.2 I advise you to keep looking for it.

For a 2005 997 C2, where is the "CU On Board Comp. Network" located and what's the easiest way to access it?

On the wire schematics I have, it shows it's located on the driver's left side. Any visual clues?

Can anybody please confirm, is the Sport button's ON/OFF LED connected directly to DME or not?

On my copy of  911 2005 Sheet 4 "CU CLuster / Combined Steering Column Modul":

I'm guessing, the Sport Button's LED (A12) - On Board Comp, Network Control Unit 2/E10 - 397 Ye/Ye 0.35 - NR. GM

Also, what's the easiest way to access this wire or what's the exact location of the CU On Board Comp. Network?

Really? that's strange..should have to enable PSE in DME ,A/C control , and Gateway through PIWIS tester or Durametric software ..so it turns off and on with the button? . And does the modulation through the quiet zone ?Do you have a PIWIS or Durametric?

I appologize for my previous chaos. I have a SPORT button, part of the Sport Chrono...not a PSE button. I'm really sorry. I've been reading lately the PSE install pdf which has the instructions for both..Sport Chrono or PSE only. I've updated my previous posts.

Anyway, do you have the DME pinout or schematics?

 

 

Yes it makes since , your car has never had the PSE enabled , so the DME is not looking for resistance or to control it.

 

But the PSE ON works accordingly:

- better throttle response

- faster gear shifting

- gear shifting at a higher rpm 

- full pse solenoid control

- the steering wheel is more responsive

- more aggressive engine break (i think)

etc

 

 

In reading your various posts I think you might be confused (or I am) about your PSE.  What you described above for "PSE ON" is not PSE but "SPORT" mode.  You say you don't have PSE mufflers so I'm thinking you don't have PSE at all.  One external indicator would be to look at the tail pipes - do you have dual quads with the inner pipe with a smaller diameter than the outer pipe.

 

Yes you are right...I made a huge error. I have a Sport button, not a PSE button. What I'm trying to do applies to either PSE or Sport button.

Really? that's strange..should have to enable PSE in DME ,A/C control , and Gateway through PIWIS tester or Durametric software ..so it turns off and on with the button? . And does the modulation through the quiet zone ?Do you have a PIWIS or Durametric?

It turns on/off with the Sport button. No idea how it does the modulation. I don't have access to Piwis or Durametric. When I had access to Duramteric V3, the only error was CAN BUS display c112 in the gateway module..i think

Also, When I purchased the car, I paid for the an independent Porsche mechanic to inspect it. All the issues found (the Sport button wasn't working at all) including a DME issue were fixed by the dealer via a Porsche dealership. I was able to double check it by asking the Porsche dealer for the repair history.

It looks like at that time the dealer replaced & programmed the sport button control unit..for $1000.. Part number 997.618.516.01 was replaced 

Yes it makes since , your car has never had the PSE enabled , so the DME is not looking for resistance or to control it.

But the Sport button ON works accordingly:

- better throttle response

- faster gear shifting

- gear shifting at a higher rpm 

- full pse solenoid control

- the steering wheel is more responsive

- more aggressive engine break (i think)

- open PSE valves

etc

If your car did not come with PSE mufflers ,solenoid,  wiring , then your DME is not enabled for PSE and will not look for resistance , or control the solenoid until its enabled . I believe your car has the button built into the A/C control and sends the signal over CAN line to DME. I think  the wireless solution is the best way for you to go.

I've been driving all day with the solenoid disconnected. I did a check few minutes ago, the obd scan reports zero errors.

Re: the wireless solution, if the Sport mode switch is not connected directly to DME, I might integrate it with my idea, if I'll be able to make the relay control the wireless remote.

Having an extra button to push is no good ;)...for me.

I think if you defeat the DME in this manor you will set a DTC fault (although the check engine light will not illuminate) . The DME looks to the solenoid for resistance checks on start up to see if any wiring , solenoid , resistance failures are in the circuit. The only ways to have the PSE on all the time without setting DTC's are (1) to disconnect the vacuum lines ,(leaving the electrical" as is") or (2)to add another control system like wireless remote to control the PSE . I have a wireless remote that I use for Sound Symposer Retrofit kit for 996 997.1 that will work for PSE also. I'll attach a picture and can visit my website at www.bansheestethoscope.com for more pictures and info . Best regards

I see, I'm familiar with the wireless solution but I'm not familiar with a DTC fault. A lot of people recommend disconnecting the wire harness from solenoid. Anyway, as I mentioned earlier, my goal is to install a relay that does the followings:

1. Detects PSE or Sport Mode button ON (Ex: PSE button's LED light)

2. Switches off the DME connections to solenoid simulating a solenoid's harness removal. If what you say about DTC fault is true then instead of switching off the connection to the solenoid, the relay could swithc it to a  fake resistance (same value as solenoid's). No need for a wireless or wired 12V alternative circuit.

My car 2005 C2 (no-PASM), came from factory with the Sport Chrono package (Sport button) but without PSE mufflers, solenoid etc. What I'm trying to say, the PSE worked fine withtout a solenoid until I purchased it and installed a solenoid and PSE mufflers etc.

I think I need the Sport Chrono install pdf. Do you know where I could find it?

My goal is to tap into to PSE or Sport mode switch= > install a relay; if PSE/Sport button ON the relay will disconnect the PSE solenoid from DME...so the PSE exhaust will remain ON all the time, as long as the PSE button is ON.

 

Is the PSE button connected directly to DME? Where can I find more info about the PSE button wiring?

 

Year and model is always helpful.  You would need the car's wiring diagrams.  The Bentley manual has a set for most 996's.

 

It's a 2005 C2, Sport Chrono package. I have the 101 Projects book, I'll check it later. Meantime, I've checked the 996 2002-2205 which is supposed to have the same DME version. I couldn't find the PSE switch pins.

If it's a factory installed PSE then I believe the PSE switch is connected to the DME.  I believe I have a PDF of the 997 install technical bulletin which shows the direct connection to the DME. If you want it send me your email address via a PM and I'll try to find it and send it to you.

The car came with factory installed Sport Chrono but without PSE mufflers. As far as I understand, the mufflers were not available at that time. I installed the mufflers (2nd hand) & wiring+valve (new). I'll PM you asap.

Is the Sport or PSE button connected directly to DME? Where can I find more info about the wiring?

I hope you are right. I need to buy or borrow a durametric asap.

 

I had access to an older version of Durametric...I think it was v3.

 
If possible, I would recheck the car with a more current version of the system,  Reason I say that is there was a rash of Chinese clones of the Durametric system, all of which were old versions (current is 6.5.0.7), and many of which were questionable to the point of actually damaging some cars.  So unless you know the provenance of the system you used, I would recheck it just to be safe, and because if the code is real and live, the next moves will be more complicated and possibly expensive.

No aftermarket audio. I don't have any problem that i'm aware of. I had an ignition coil short few weeks ago and a drained battery. But all the ignition coils, plugs and 3 ignition coil connectors have been replaced. The battery is fully charged.

Any after market audio component? Are you having a problem with the vehicle or just this code showing up with durametric?

I had access to an older version of Durametric...I think it was v3.

So far, the battery is fine. It charges properly.

In the Advanced Electrical System pdf , the CAN display is connected to:

26 - Instrument cluster

Thank you Hartdude. The PIWIS explanation is scary. Can the code popup without generating other codes....or it's just an access error of the obd2 device?

Any idea where to start looking for a loose connector?

is it possible a weak battery could trigger this code?

I did it a couple of times. It returns immediately.

I took the instruments panel fuse out for 10-15s. Didn't help.

It doesn't trigger any serious warnings or other P errors.

I've looked all over google for more info about this error.

Could you tell me please where I can find more info about this error. Thanks.

Gateway: C112 error Display CAN

Few hundred miles later, everything seems fine except one thing. After I revived the car, with the PSE on, it sounded like a racing car. Few days ago, I noticed that it doesn't sound as sporty as before, it went back to the PSE sound I had prior to the ignition event.

What could be the explanation?

How can I bring back the racing sound? It was awesome.

The ebay connectors arrived yesterday. I can confirm it's a complete package: pins, connectors & silicon gaskets

After a few long hours of instaling the coolant tank (lowering the freaking engine etc.) and another hour of putting everything back* and checkingall the fuses again, I attemped to start the car. With the battery fully charged, the engine started right away but it stopped after just a few seconds and a bunch of errors and warnings pop-up on the console and later, on the obd2 reader. Well, in that moment, I was very tired...and extremely scared.

After clearing the errors, I drove the car but still, same errors and warnings. The engine was running smootly but it had a weird behaviour during acceleration. *Then I realized i forgot to connect the air flow sensor. With everything finally connected, i cleared the errors one more time and all the warnings vanished.

Now the car drives better, stronger, faster and smoother (it keeped up with a tesla on pch). I can't go to sleep, i have to drive it again...and again. Too bad I had too many stellas since i finally finished testing it. Otherwise anytime is good time to drive your favorite car, especially when the streets are empty, isn't it?!

Love is a strong word, but i really enjoy driving it, especially now. It's probably a very subjective opinion: it took me 3 weeks to fix it, without a proper garage, in front of my apartment, in full sun and with all the neighbors making "funny" remarks (There were few moments when killing was totally justifiable).

So..I thank everybody, who replied to my post, thank you very much for your help. I appreciate it.

Yikes! Looks unlikely you can remove the pins without destroying them in the process.

Sir, you were wrong (not by much).

Only 1 pin was very stubborn..I had to dissect the connector, slowly and carefully, piece by piece. It took me probably 1h and some luck.

Sorry the Australian plug doesn't work and hope you can get some refund.

Good job repairing the connector. How did you find the right part number? Is it printed on the old connector?

It's not your fault. I found that seller before you suggested it. Thanks anyway.

The old part number (bcz it's a long number) is split in 2 ...and placed on the connector in 2 dif. places. By looking in the Bosch catalogue...I got familiar with their codes...and I've been able to identify the correct oem number...but only after removal. I couldn't see it in the first set of photos (nor I didn't know where to look for).

Last night, I ordered 6 oem connector kits from ebay..just in case. As far as I understand from the german Porsche mechanic, this is a common problem, most of them being replaced under warranty. So maybe it's a good idea to have some new connectors around, just in case.

I'll let you guys know if this is the correct part...but I've very confident it is.

PS: If I think about it, the newer connect (1 928 403 110) has less open space (between pins), it doesn't have the vertical open space (perpendicular on the ignition coil pins) where water &/or coolant might slip in, it's hard to explain it without a proper photo. I'll try some macro shots.