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This is screwed up. May be a programming problem. PWIS time.

When I said "If I pull the outside handle from the left side...not a single error. I pull it from the right side 100% errors." I was ref. to the right door only; the left & right side of the same handle. Left door works perfectly.

Like you said few msgs ago, it might be a dirty sensor. My bet is on the outside handle: the micro switch or something loose in the handle mechanism when pulled harder is preventing the sensor to work properly.

I've just came back from the car:

"The door is closed and you are in the car. You pull on the inside latch the window cracks, you pull harder, the door opens and the window stays down until you shut the door then it returns to the closed position."

Correct. I did it 10 times. 0% errors.

"Now you are outside and the door is closed. You pull on the latch and the window cracks, you pull harder and the door opens. You let go of the latch and the window goes up in error. The window is now in an error position."

Correct. 7 out of 10 times the window remained in an error position. 70% errors

It gets more interesting. If I pull the outside handle from the left side...not a single error. I pull it from the right side 100% errors.

Thank you very much for all your help.

Let me try to describe the door's behavior:

- with the door open when I pull and release the outside/inside handle the window goes down and up immediately. After that, If I want to close the door after I touched the outside handle (window up), I have to bring the door as close to the car as possible without closing it. The moment the latch touches the striker the window goes down and stays there and now I can close the door. If I push the latch's mechanism with my finger, the window goes down and stays there.

It looks like the oil messed up the micro switch, the window goes down when I touch the outside handle and immediately goes up again. On the flip side, I wanted to take the door's trim off anyway or is there an easy fix for this?

Yesterday I tried to follow your instructions but I don't have the proper torx and torque key.

Since I've never had a Porsche before, I paid very close attention to each door. The doors are perfectly aligned. The movement that i detected is nothing more than the window lowering and closing combined with a harshness in the door's strike / latch. Since I didn't know what else to do, I oiled the latch as much as I could. Now the harshness is not as bad as before.

i'll follow your striker adjustment info if necessary. Mijostyn, I appreciate it and thank you.

Sorry to hear about the PCM damage.

For me, the central console was my biggest rattle issue bcz it was rattling almost at every rpm, I couldn't hear the engine, a very high pitch rattling, super annoying. Now no more rattles at any rpm but I can hear smaller ones driving on rough roads but they don't bother me at all ....for now ;)

It looks like the windows retract to open and close but especially the right door, when I open it, the entire door drops a little or at least if feels like it drops few mm. My 7 year daughter enters and exists trough that door., I was trying to make it as smoothly a possible for her too. Bcz she is little, sometimes she can't close the door properly. It's like a workout for her. Maybe there is a fix for it but of course, we can live with it, no big deal.

Don't forget the cabin air filter. It is on the passenger side next to the battery. Make sure your brakes are ok. You should always know where your pads are.The more you get on it, the faster you will rip up your rear tires. Most of us get around 10K on the rears. Ranges from 6K to 12K depending entirely on your right foot. You better budget for a set of tires a year. I just put Michelin Pilot Super Sports on mine. They are less expensive than the N0, N1 tires, handle just as well and have a tread wear rating of 300 vs 220 for the others. It rained here yesterday and on one of my favorite roads the car did a perfectly controlled 4 wheel slide.Save up and get rid of the PCM. You can use a NAV-TV MOST Head Unit Replacement module to hookup any double DIN aftermarket NAV unit. I like Alpine. This way you get to keep your stock speakers and amps. There is a Double DIN mounting kit that has the factory finish bezel. You get state of the art NAV, great sound, perfect iPod integration and Blue tooth. All 911s rattle. The best way to deal with that is TURN UP THE MUSiC. Rock and Roll!!!

Thanks for your suggestions especially the cabin filer. I ordered the Mann-Filter CUK 3360 active carbon from Amazon.

The brake pads are fine. At the PPI inspection the pads were 50% and 100% back.

I was planning to switch the tires from Continental to Michelin PSS as well.

I'm not a fan of messing with the the stock receiver or pcm. It's more than fine for me. I don't use it anyway.

RE: rattling, I was able to fix it. The curved flat black plastic guide that moves along with the tiptronic lever, was vibrating like crazy. Very annoying. I took it off and sprayed its back with plastidip. I also sprayed the metallic brackets. What a difference. The car's interior is dead quiet now at any rpm.

The tiptronic button was kind of loose too. The issue was caused by a damaged spring; an easy fix.

The doors don't close smoothly but they are aligned perfectly. Is there any sort of guide of how to adjust it?

Thanks for all your advices.

I tried to find a better car but that's all i can afford so I ended up purchasing the car. The dealer fixed the problems at a Porsche dealer (replaced a module and installed a brand new Tiptronic button) and gave me a good price. I also got a spectacular low apr from my bank.

I also stopped by the Porsche dealer where the previous owner did all the maintenance and they were kind enough to print all the service records (including the last one they performed for the dealer who sold me the car). That's how I found out the 80k miles maintenance was already done.

I've been very happy with the car, best car I've owned. In manual mode with sport mode on it drives beautifully. I have no regrets buying a 911 tiptronic. I know it's an old style tiptronic but it's more than enough for me. I don't even want to know how the new GT3 PDK works ;)

So far I did the followings:

- replaced the orange side markers with OEM clear ones

- diy a rear spoiler assembly rebuild. It was making a rattling noise when closing

- wheel alignment

- put 2500 miles on the car with several trips by Ortega hwy and a 6-day trip to SF via CA33 and on the way back via Pacific Coast

- hard wired the V1 detector

- fixed the ash tray cover ( now it closes smoothly)

- did the orange cap mode but I used a black rubber leg tip from ace hardware instead.

If you have any suggestions, please let me know. I'm planning to do the followings:

- diy oil/filter change. I purchased the Amsoil European Car Formula 5w-40 and the NAPA gold filter and a new shim. If you have suggestions, now would be the appropriate time ;).

- replace air filter. For now I'll use the oem paper filter but I'll probably switch to a BMC filter in the near future.

- fix the center console rattling on not so good roads and/or over 4-5k rpm.

- not 100% happy with the way the doors close. I've been looking for a door adjustment guide. Please let me know if you know how to do it.

- enable side markers to blink and the chrono dial to light up in stand-by. I'm looking to borrow or pay to rent a Durametric tool for a couple of hours. Please let me know if you know somebody...

Once again, I appreciate your help.

Few photos from CA33:

I'll keep an eye on all those sites. Thank you

Thank you guys. Should I become a temp PCA member? Few years ago, when I had another attempt to buy a Porsche, the PCA club was offering a temp registration for non-porsche owners. Any other places where I might find decent 997s?

Thanks for your input. I tend to agree with you, there is no doubt the car wasn't loved...but the price is not bad. I've been looking for months for a decent car for a reasonable price. I thought only a car owned by the dealership can be certified. What's the procedure?

I'm aware of oil prices. I just did my own oil/filter change in my Acura with Amsoil Signature.

I'd pass. It was not a car that was taken good care of. There is no excuse for a Porsche to require repainting at 80K miles. There is no aftermarket paint that is going to be as durable as the factory job. Carpet fading means the car was parked for prolonged periods in the sun. Plus all the other stuff which taken individually are minor but together they add up to a car that was not loved.

You have to know that maintaining these cars is expensive. Even the routine stuff. Just check the price of 9 quarts of Mobile 1 0W 40.

Also, if you buy a car less than 8 years old with less than 100K miles you can have the car certified and get a two year warranty which with these cars is huge piece of mind. At one year if the car is doing well have the oil analyzed by Polaris. If the oil is clean and you love the car keep it. If not then you can sell it with the remaining warranty for almost what you paid 3 it.

34k

About me:

- Never had a Porsche before

- I was in a market for a 996

- I'm intending to use my first Porsche as a daily driver but I work from home

- Don't have a garage just a car port.

- Don't have tons of money

About the car:

- 2005 997 C2

- manufactured in 2004.

- Tiptronic

- sport seats, bi-xenon, sport steering wheel

- Over 80k miles

- Clean carfax (1 owner)

The First PPI inspection results:

- exterior: 3 out of 5 (repainted quarter panels, hood and bumper but no accident/ frame damage; also paint damage in multiple areas from bird residue - can't be buffed out)

- interior: 4 of of 5 (minor interior issues like back window carpet discoloration etc)

- engine: perfect, no leaks etc.

- transmission: multiple error codes (C202, C141, 8001, 8003) prevented further investigation. The mechanic is saying, it might be a minor issue (new battery install) or else... Also, the Sport Button doesn't work - issue, probably, related to the same error codes. The owner is saying, he will get them fixed at a Porsche dealer. Aparently he wasn't aware of the sport button issue !!??

- no metal in the oil filter

- good brakes 50%(front) & 100% (back)

- good tires

- new water pump

other issues:

- the right tiptronic button is not working properly.Owner will have it replaced

- minor misalignment ($250 to fix)

- the windows will not dip properly when interior door handles are used (possible microswitch issue)

- the car spent a lot of days in the sun.

Q: $34k, to buy or not to buy?