Reebuck1

Guys I will be happy to do the above. Let me run it for a week or so and I will get back to you with a before and after chart on all my Durametric readings. Be back in a week !! Thanks again for everyone help !!!! .................Ahsia was great to hang in there with me during the ordeal!!!!

Took car for long drive and by time I got back home all appears to be working correctly!!! I just want to thank everyone for their help..................Never could have fixed it without your assistance. Ahsai....I owe you big time....Thanks

Guys, Still working will not be able to get back to car until Monday....FYI thanks again !!

Ahsia, Thanks again. Have to take two days off to try and pay the bills. I will get back to this in two days. I was only able to drive it for about 10 minutes....probably not long enough. I'll take the longer drive in two days. Again thank you...I'll owe you a couple cases of beer at the end of all this.

Ok, got one fault code.............P1531....Camshaft adjustment bank1 could have been caused when I tried to see if the Vario cam was working correctly. I used "activations" in my Durametric Engine Module program by starting and stopping "Camshaft adjustment bank 1".....which caused a significant change in idle when I made the adjustment and corrected itself when I went back to where it had been. No other codes !! FRA.............1.18 FRA2...........1.18 TRA............0.03 TRA2..........0.03 Voltage on pre cat. sensors were like yesterday started at 0.44v dropped off and fluctuated between 0.13v and 0.01v depending on RPM

Will do !!

Ok guys I unplugged the MAF and the car ran much better...not perfect but much better. I think the oil filler tube and cap are OK. I am afraid to try and pinch the AOS because it is plastic and on this car and with 70,000 miles and all that heat over the years, it is probably very brittle. Ranger 2 Cylinder 1-3 (FRA)....................1.23 Ranger 2 Cylinder 4-6 (FRA2)..................1.23 Ranger 2 Cylinder 1-3 (TRA).................... 0.37 Ranger 2 Cylinder 4-6 (TRA2).................. 0.37 What is our current thinking? Thanks, Bob

Ahsai, Thanks, I'll get to what you suggest tonight. I think that the cause for the two error codes in post 72 above came from when you asked me to get the pre cat. Duramtric voltage without starting the car. I had the air cleaner and MAF out of the car so I could take the manual voltage readings. Otherwise I don't think we would have seen any code. I replaced everything before getting the last voltage readings you requested. I'll clear everything before I try your above suggestions and see if we get any more error codes. Thanks, Bob

Just pulled up my error code log on our last run and get the two codes: P1602....Supply voltage open circuit. P0102....Mass air flow sensor short circuit/ open circuit Thought you like to know Thanks, Bob

Sorry, I was under the impression Bank 1 was the driver side of the car and Bank 2 the passenger side of the car. If I am incorrect that is why my reference to Bank 1 was incorrect. The 0.2v was not steady and only for split seconds.....could be my meter. I only have pre. cat. voltages available on my version of Durametric (6.3.2.5) for my DME 5.2.2. I can only give you the pre cat. numbers. I sent Durametric a request for a program on the post cat. data. I am in agreement on your wire colors the bank issue I mentioned above. You were correct on the voltage values. Turned key on but not started car....got 0.44 volts . Start car volts stay at 0.4 volt for a short period then drop off quickly to 0.0 volts. Rev the gas up and the voltage picks back up then drops off again. When you rev gas both banks changed but not together or equally. On high revs ups I could get up to 0.71 volts for short periods but most often below 0.20 volts.

Don't smile yet guys!!! I was using the wrong wire (BK/RD) when checking continuity to DME pin# 46. It should have been the BL/RD wire. So using John instructions and the correct BL/RD wire at sensor pin #3 I DID GET continuity back to DME pin# 46. My Durametric does not show after cat. voltage so I measured the after cat. signal wires YE/WT and BK/WT to ground and got a 0.4 volts. So I believe I am getting this .4 volt signal on pre and post cat. wires?? I looked really hard for a small BK/RD wire under the DME pin # 46. It was not there. That is when I realized I was chasing the wrong wire. I am sure DME pin# 46 has a BL/RD wire going to it and that is what I saw at the harness connection. I believe my DME pin# 46 continuity check should have been with sensor harness pin #3 ?? John comment " If your continuity checks did not get continuity between sensor #2 harness pin #3 and DME harness pin #46; then sensor #1 harness pin#3 to DME harness pin #46 (these should be the sensor grounds), your O2 sensors have no ground circuit going back to the DME, which is why the DME is having problems seeing them." If John's "sensor #1" is the pre cat. sensor and "sensor #2" is the post cat. sensor...THEN I GOT GOOD CONTINUITY on those lines (BL/RD) back to DME pin # 46. This means I have continuity to DME pin #46 after running John test with the correct BL/RD wire. I also have continuity per instruction with DME pin # 18, #19. Ahsia, I see your question in post # 64. I also do not understand it. Went back to car and working with Bank1 only I disconnected pre and post cat. sensor from their harnesses. Put volt meter on wires running to DME and got the following: pre cat. bank1 pin #3 (RD/BL) TO pin #4(YE/WT)........................... 0.2 volts pin #3 (RD/BL) TO Ground..................................... 0.7 volts pin #4 (YE/WT) TO Ground..................................... 0.4 volts post cat. bank 1 pin #3 (RD/BL) TO pin #4(BK/WT).......................... 0.2 volts pin #3 (RD/BL) TO Ground...................................... 0.7 volts pin #4 (BK/WT) TO Ground...................................... 0.4 volts I am guessing I would get same results on Bank 2 side. Thanks, Bob

I did not state that I DID get continuity when checking DME pin #18 and #19 when I followed your instructions.....BUT NOT pin #46

Here is the data from the Durameteric .44 volts with sensors plugged in AND with sensors unplugged. O2 sensor voltage ahead of cat. conv..........................0.44 V O2 sensor voltage ahead of cat. c. bank2...................0.44 V SAME READING BOTH WAYS ! Did you receive my info from tracing all the wires ?? If not I'll resend it. Thanks again, Bob O2 sensor voltage ahead of cat. conv O2 sensor voltage ahead of cat. c. 10:58:59.7661528 0.44 0.44 10:59:00.6459317 0.44 0.44 10:59:01.5162280 0.44 0.44 10:59:02.3864437 0.44 0.44 10:59:03.2564061 0.44 0.44 10:59:04.1569588 0.44 0.44 10:59:05.0564867 0.44 0.44 10:59:05.9668498 0.44 0.44 10:59:06.8362710 0.44 0.44 10:59:07.7163602 0.44 0.44 10:59:08.6164072 0.44 0.44 10:59:09.5370516 0.44 0.44 10:59:10.4371053 0.44 0.44 10:59:11.3267299 0.44 0.44 10:59:12.2067827 0.44 0.44 10:59:13.0860933 0.44 0.44 10:59:13.9855119 0.44 0.44 10:59:14.9255642 0.44 0.44

Here are the results of my continuity tests: I unplug the problematic sensor on bank 1 & 2, unplug the harness from the DME, and check for continuity between sensor #2 harness pin #3 (BK/RD)and DME harness pin #46; NO continuity I took the DME plug case off so I could see the wires underneath but I have yet to find the BK/RD wire to DME pin 46....still looking! If I plugged one of the sensors back into the harness I then have continuity between DME pins 3,4,5,22,23,24,30,31,32,33,34,49,50 and 51 ....BUT NOT DME pin 46 I then tested sensor harness pin #4 on bank 1 (BK/WT) to DME harness pin #19, and harness pin #4 on bank 2 (WT/BK) to DME harness pin 18. I am going to now see if I can get the Durametric data requested....Be back in a while.

Ahsai, Thanks, Absolutely will happy to do it....... I'll try anything short of suicide to get this solved. First thing in morning I will take care of it. I guess I bring my Durametric up just as if the care were running and go to "Actual Values" tab and look at the O2 voltage to get the information you need?? Again thank you for all the help !! Bob

JFP, Just saw your note and I will re-check the pin continuity in the morning. Thanks for the suggestion !!

Re-did voltage checks on Bank 1 results below: (ground used was rear deck lid latch) RD/WT...... heater wire to.... ground.......12 volts BK.............heater wire to ground...........12 volts Pre. Cat. Bank 1 BL/RD..........................to ground.........0.6 volts YW/WT........................to ground.........0 volts BL/RD....................to YW/WT.............0 volts ***** Post Cat. Bank1 BL/RD.........................to ground.......0.7 volts BK/WT .......................to ground........0 volts BL/RD.........................to BK/WT.......0 volts ***** Car now has two new pre cat. sensors but acts the same. I checked sensor wires back to DME and got continuity on the pin wires you asked me to check. Cleared all fault codes and ran motor at different speeds for 15-20 minutes and ran "short test" but got NO FAULT CODES. Car still has idle problem. One thing I had not looked at before is the G 40 Tiptronic file and found one fault code listed.......22 P1770 Load signal I pulled the following "Actual Values" while the motor was running and only list those that changed from yesterday. today yesterday Hot film MAF 1.26 1.28 IATS 68.3 69.8 ECTS 86.3 72.8 Spec. air mass 15 17 Exhaust temp after cat. conv. 212 c 58c Oil Temp. 85.5c 72.8 Rough-running threshold 11.3 8.5 Rough running 4.0 0 FYI.....................thanks, Bob

Last question first. I removed the Bank 2 intake so I could get the rear (back) bolt out on the air conditioner. Did not touch the Bank two coils or plugs. On the Bank 1 side... I removed the coils for cylinders #4 and #5 and removed plugs to check condition while I was testing Bank 1 solenoid . Motor ran fine before I changed the IMSB. Should I remove and re-clean? I will recheck MAF and re-clean this afternoon. At idle I was under the impression that the MAF does not come into play? I am going to recheck voltage on pre-cat O2 sensors this afternoon and will get the Post cat. voltage at the same time. I'll send you those results later tonight. NOW.....when I start the car cold it starts well but then still wants to die. If I keep RPMs above 3000 it will run steady. When I let off gas slowly at around 2200-2500 RPM it will lose RPM very quickly even though I have stopped letting off gas. If I push down only slightly on the gas peddle RPMs sharply come up very quickly (not a steady increase). I tried spraying carb cleaner around suspect areas looking for possible air leaks with no noticeable idle change. The motor still sounds to me like it is missing. I also suspect air leaks but can not get to every possible location.

Ok folks finally able to get back to car. Followed Loren instructions Received following Fault Codes: P1319....Misfire emission-relevant P1313....Cylinder 1 misfire emissions-relevant P1314....Cylinder 2 misfire emissions-relevant P1315....Cylinder 3 misfire emissions-relevant P0102....Mass air flow sensor short circuit/open circuit P1531....Camshaft adjustment bank 1 Also saw the following Alarm 132 fault codes: 49....K lead not present 1 occurance counter 23....W lead not present 8 occurance counter 42...Wrong key or wrong transponder pill not present 15 occurance counter I am also providing all the read outs from my "Engine Module ME5.2.2 at idle after my around block run: RPM 720 Load Signal 1.30 Air mass 14.25 to 16.25 jumping Speed 0 Voltage 13.45 IATS 69.8 ECTS 72.8 Throttle plate angle 0 Ignition timing 3.8 to 9.8 jumping Spec. air mass 16 to 17 Spec. air adaptation -3 Ambient pressure 760 Injection time 3.9 to 4.0 Exhaust temp. after cat. Converter 52C Oil temperature 72.8C Engine compartment temp. 54.8C Oxygen sensing cylinder 1-3 1.25 Oxygen sensing cylinder 4-6 1.25 Ranger 2 Cylinder 1-3 (FRA) 0.98 Ranger 2 Cylinder 4-6 (FRA2) 0.98 Ranger 2 Cylinder 1-3 (TRA) 0.37 Ranger 2 Cylinder 4-6 (TRA2) 0.37 O2 sensor voltage ahead of cat. conv. 0.00 O2 sensor voltage ahead of cat. c. bank 2 0.00 Camshaft position 1 deviation -2.0 Camshaft position 2 deviation (USA model only) 3.0 HO2S heat. Res. Ahead of cat. conv. 3.1 Rough-running threshold 8.5 Rough running 0 to 4.0 most of the time 0 to 2.8 Segment A 1 Segment B 1 Leam. progress sens. Wheel adapt. 0.0007 I hope this gives you more info to work with. Any other suggestions please let me know. Sure appreciate every ones help!!!!!!

Got o2 sensors yesterday and put them in the car. Results were same as before............. bad idle (Low Speed) above 2000 RPM runs great. Some stats: ECTS ECTS Ignition timing TRA Bank1 TRA Bank2 FRA Bank1 FRA Bank2 O2 sensor V. O2 sensor V. ahead of cat. 1 ahead of cat.2 0.98 0.98 0.37 0.37 0.37 0.98 0.98 0.00 0.00 I am lost.................not despairing yet but lost. Can't believe the DME would be bad if it was working before I started all this. Any thoughts

Thanks so much Ahsai for all the help !! I have two sensors on the way and expect to get them first part of next week. I'll let you know as soon as they are in. Thanks again !!

Looks like there are two silver boxes .....question is which is the DME?? Both have 88 pin connectors. OK got it................ the was the box on right. A little slow but at least I'm steady. Got continuity between pin 30 (RD/WT) at the DME plug and socket (RD/WT) heater wire of pre-Cat. sensor. Got continuity between pin 1 (RD/WT) at the DME plug and socket (RD/BK) heater wire of the pre-Cat. sensor. What now? Your thoughts?

Ahsai, Double checked BK to ground and got 12v. Double checked RD/WT to ground..0v Checked RD/WT to BK with meter and got 0v. When I disconnect the battery do I just disconnect the + terminal or should I do both + and - ? The car is a Cab. C2 so..... I think the DME is on the right side once the top is up (remove cables and pull back window up) DME under the carpet. When I disconnect the plug from the DME I am hoping the plug pins will be marked so I can find pin #1 and pin #30. Does that sound correct? Or are you talking about removing the two large connector plugs in the engine bay (one with blue paint spots and one with white paint spots) and check the pins at that point? I know the pins on the large connectors are marked and I am guessing they come directly from the DME?

Ahsai...Thanks you for the great info. Here is the results after following your direction: I did mean 0.5V...sorry I used to many 0s. Checked fuse C2...fuse was good On Bank 1 Pre cat. Measured RD/WT heater wire to ground........ NO VOLTAGE 0.00v Pre Cat. Measured BK heater wire to ground.....Got 11.77v Post cat. Measured RD/BK heater wire to ground.......NO VOLTAGE 0.00 Post cat. Measured BK heater wire to ground.....Got 11.77v I measured Bank 2 and got the same results Some further back ground. When I dropped the motor and trans (automatic) I failed to completely disconnect the wiring harness to the auto trans and pulled about 12" to 15" of wiring from the center tunnel before I noticed it. The wiring was all still tape wrapped and I saw no breaks outside the car so I assumed it was still good to go. Any chance that I popped lose some sort of O2 connecter under the back seat, if there is one there? Maybe that is were the trouble could be. Again thank you very much for your help !!!!

OK, more info: I cleaned the MAF, throttle body and idle control valve (idle control valve was really dirty). Looking only at Bank 1....I turned on the car ignition (did not engage the starter) and with my volt meter (set at 2.5V) attached to the car side of the connector ( black/white-wire and blue/red) to the O2 sensor cable running from the car...I got 0.05 volt steady. I turned the key off and the voltage disappeared. Same proceedure Bank 1 o2 sensor connector (with the o2 sensor disconnected) I placed the volt meter (set at 12V) on the two heater leads (black-wire and red/white-wire) hoping to get 12 volts but I got no reading (0). Am I right in assuming the Bank 1 signal circuit is good but the heater circuit is bad coming from the car to the connector?? I removed the Pre-cat. Bank 1 o2 sensor from the car and used my Ohm meter to verify the I had a good heater circuit on the o2 sensor. It appeared good! The o2 sensor was covered with a heavy gray dust. I am guessing from running so rich. I heated the tip of the o2 sensor with propane torch with my volt meter hooked to the sending circuit and got NO VOLTAGE even when the o2 sensor tip heated red ...no movement at all. Where up stream should I now look? The cable runs into the back of the fire wall with no connections I can get at. Is there a connection under the back seat I can access? Is there a reason the two pre cat. sensors would go at the same time? Sorry to keep bugging you folks about this but it is driving me crazy. There has to be a simple correction. Thanks again !!