dinicor

Hi guys... so yes I'm resurrecting a thread from 2012. But I'm reading up on the Fabspeed 200 Cell Cat/X-pipes and the numbers they claim are pretty impressive in terms of added hp and torque. Not sure if you'd get the same increase with a universal set up, but either way the cost is not cheap (especially for us Canadians, eh) and I'm reading mixed reviews?

I'm also reading here that mufflers and a flash are your best bet - what mufflers and what flash specifically are we talking about and are there any "side effects" to speak of?

I've got OEM mufflers with the hack. The car is otherwise stock.

Yeah, so it's official - C2 spring will NOT work on a C4 car. Vendor has been pretty good so far and is willing to work with me as it was their error. Then again, if someone is interested in them, let me know. I'm in Canada, eh.

Good info guys. I'm looking at a set of lowering springs from Vogtland. They specify a different set of springs for coupe vs. Cab/targa vs. I think C4S/turbo. The thing is, they don't specifically say if the cab/targa springs are specific to a C2, or a C4, or good for both, or......

Total disclosure: I'll take the performance upgrade this may provide, but I'm thinking of this mostly for looks.

So no lower than the factory specifies is the lowest the car can go, or are you saying don't go lower than what the factory dictates as the "stock" or recommended height?

In general, is it a bad idea to lower a 4 wheel drive car?

Looks good! The upper grill in the front bumper... is that an insert or a complete bumper?

Thanks Loren. It's funny because H&R shows a 1.25 inch drop for their C2 cab spring and 1.0 inch for their C4 cab spring. Vogtland separates springs between cap and coupe as well, but does not specify a spring for C2 cab vs. C4 cab. They only show a C2 cab spring. Unless they're one and the same in the case of the Vogtland?

Just wondering, there are specific lowering springs for coupes vs. cabs/targas, I believe due to the added weight. What would be the difference for lowering springs between a C2 and C4?

Just noticed your former car was a 1971 Camaro. Same here!

I miss that car. Mine was in really good shape. Red on black. 350. Muncie 4 speed. Sweeet!

996 love for sure - very nice. Wheels, did you paint them black or have them done? And the grill in the front bumper just in front of the hood, insert or is it a a whole piece/"new" bumper?

Have a chance to pick-up a set of OEM 997 mufflers for a good price, but just want to make sure they'll just be a "drop-in" for my 996. Any reason to believe this would not work? Thx!

I'm not sure about winter weathers impact on the shifting, but I installed my short shifter this weekend and love the results. Shorter throws, more precise, clicks into gear, which I like.

And yes, winter or not, there is more effort to move the leaver, but it's not bad.

Thanks for the feedback guys!

Ya, I'm a fan of the B&M piece, but by the time I pay the exchange and tax, etc... I'm looking at close to $400 up here in Canada, eh!

So my question was two fold I guess... what's the best shifter option at the best price.

But I'm thinking B&M is the route to go.

So I'm aware of a number of short shifter options for the 996. B&M, 997 ssk, Schnell, eBay specials.... and so on. In your opinion, what's the best option for the money? Don't want a cheapo repro, but don't want to spend mega money either.

Ok, so if some sort of code shows up in the "Model" section, then the part is specific to a certain model, otherwise the part is common to all models. Funny they don't list the felt bag the C4 cars have to hold the jack and jack handle. Strange in my opinion.

Thanks Loren, but I'm a bit confused. My C4 has the spare tire sitting on the floor with a yellow felt bag holding the jack and the handle, and no "foam part". I noticed a guy selling a C4 jack on ebay from a parts car and he is selling the same thing I have from the C4 and not the foam insert.

I don't want to buy the foam insert if my car didn't come with it to begin with.

So I have a 2001 4 wheel drive car and I'm just not sure if I have all of the pieces that belong with the spare tire kit. I know the kit in the 4 wheel drive cars includes a pump to blow up the tire a small tool kit and the scissor jack, but besides that what else belongs in the "compartment"?

Anyone have a list or maybe a pic or a parts schematic?

Thanks!

I did try bridging the two pins of the connector at the sensor and nothing happened.

I have never heard the fan go on or seen it running.

I get the needle past the centre mark on the dash gauge, which is why I'm looking into it. I have no leaks, the front fans seem to come on and I cleaned the rads. No coolant leak as far as I can tell and the reservoir is spot on.

Thing is, car runs great... needle stays at top dead centre most of the time, but as soon an I get in a bit of stop and go traffic, the needle creeps over centre just a bit and then stays there - doesn't get hotter, but never really ever gets back to top dead centre, even when I get out of traffic.

Anyway, stupid question but, easiest way to get 12v to the fan? Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Is there an easy way to test the engine cooling fan in these cars? I can see the engine compartment temperature sensor - it is properly in place and wires in place. I tried unplugging it to see if the fan would turn on - it did not. I read somewhere that it would turn on immediately once unplugged?

Assuming this is true, then is the fan cooked? How can I test it and would it be something else if the fan doesn't come on. Thanks!

Buddy... Toronto's been going downhill for three + years now... It's called Rob Ford Syndrome! LOL!

Changed the cap out... not much of a difference.

Fans definitely go on. Low vs high speed - can't tell. I'm not overly worried, as it never gets beyond that point and it's only in heavy stop and go traffic, but if I'm using my other cars as a measuring stick, then I'd prefer that the P-car be to the left of the "0" like Y2K indicated.

Does every Porsche DIY'er have a Durametric handy? Is it a must have?

I should probably do a better search, but is there an easy/known way to bleed air out of the system on these cars?

Ok, so I had the front bumper off this winter and cleaned everything out. Only thing I didn't get to do was flush out some accumulated dirt between the fins at the bottom of the radiators (winter in Toronto = no running outdoor water!), but I didn't think it was a big deal.

Now, pardon my ignorance, but my OBDII reader doesn't read the temperature - I didn't think you could get one to do that (I thought they only read the CEL codes?). And how/where would I get a durametric scanner?

As for the cap and fans, is there an easy way to make sure the cap holds pressure and how would I check that the fans work at both speeds?

Thanks again guys!

So, I store my car for the winter and I have only had a few chances to drive her so far this spring, unfortunately. This is my first summer with her.

Generally speaking, how hot do these cars run? Here's a shot of my temperature gauge after a bit of stop and go driving. It does not get higher than that and I know the fans work.

Should I be concerned? Again, it is not that hot out yet (here in Canada) and I was not sitting in traffic for that long. Thoughts?

Can't get the rear driver side selt belt to retract back, so it's just kind of hanging loose on the seat. Any trick or quick fix to get it to roll back up again? Tried twisting and yanking on it to get it to pull back, but no luck.

Excellent - thanks guys! I'm good to go then! Did the muffler hack while the cans were off. Can't wait to get it all back together!