Scott C

More info.  Tailgate open, the lights flash twice.  tailgate closed, they flash four times.

I unplugged the microswitch in the tailgate latch and it rendered the auto open feature useless.

I'm now suspecting that they missed coding the rear liftgate as assisted opening.

@JPA1, I think a door switch is more likely given the two behaviors.  Back in college I installed mobile security systems and saw this behavior quite a bit.

If I knew for sure the source of the four flashes, it would tell me volumes about where to focus next.  Given the rear gate behavior, the two are likely linked.

I haven't noted the flashing behavior on the force close.....  Will do this and report back.

Thanks guys.

Ugh...  This will be the second time taking it back to resolve programming issues related to the door module.

On my '08 GTS I have a few things happening.  First, when arming the alarm, the hazards flash four times instead o the customary two.  Is this an indication of a malfunction? 

Second, the rear hatch will not fully close when pressing the button on the liftgate.  It will close when pressure is applied to the gate when closing. 

Both of these happened after the dealer replaced the driver's door module and re-coded the car. 

Any ideas on where to begin?  Other than going back to the dealer.

For around $150, you can have simple HF and audio streaming via an FM modulator.  http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/882713-isimple-tranzit-blu-hf-a-decent-alternative-to-most-interface-for-bluetooth.html

Music audio quality is OK but my deaf ears can't tell the difference.

Easy to install.

Thanks Loren.  Glad to have a second opinion.

I'm coming up on this service being needed so the timing is perfect.

I use Mobil Delvac 75W-90 in my other cars gearboxes with good results.  I'm considering this route provided all the API grades agree.

And now, for the $1M question.....  What fluid is best for this transmission?

When I had my '05, it did the same thing and it drove me crazy.  It was worse when cold.  I wish I could have found root cause and fixed it.

The

87 and later 928s used fan speed controllers.  It is a pulse-width-modulated power transistor controlling voltage to the motors to change speeds.  If the part is $20, than that is cheap compared to the 928 units.

All V8 Cayennes have water cooled alternators. 

Yes, this is a *feature* to protect the electronics.  The HVAC blower will draw enough current to dip the car's voltage and possibly create voltage stability issues with the ECU, etc.

I'd charge the battery now and place it on a trickle charger while away for extended periods (7 days+).

Most of the chassis codes are stored and kept.  I have a few I can't clear and only PIWIS at the dealer is capable of clearing.

So are you saying everything is working but the code do not clear?

If that is the case then Durametric may not be able to clear them and you will likely need a PIWIS or PIWIS 2 tester to clear them.

As I recall PIWIS is also capable of running a CAN test.

You are correct.  Everything works but the codes will not clear. 

I was wondering about the Durametric's ability to clear the codes.   I'll keep driving and monitor.

Thanks for the help Loren.

Scott

Vehicle:  MY2008 Cayenne GTS 6MT

Over spring break I began to have a bunch of weird warning lights on the dash like "Module Failure", "Kessy Failure" and "TPMS Failure".  I immediately thought it was a battery issue and it turns out the battery was done.....  Replaced the battery and all was good.

A few days later, the non-driver's windows stopped responding to the switches in the driver's door and a few other things like the power seats not returning to their programmed position.  I pulled fuses 19 and 40 on the driver's side panel and functions resume.

I checked the codes with a Durametric and find the numbers below being stored.  Attempts to clear them are not fruitful.

The codes I'm getting are below.  Each has a message about CAN gateway not plausible or unrecognizeable.

1520

1320

1330

1331

1332

1333

1334

1341

All seem tied to the CAN network or gateway/KESSY/Comfort/Rear Comfort systems.

Anybody else been down this road?

An easy way to test for a heater core leak is to move the air output to the windshield (defroster) position and turn on the heater.  If the core is leaking coolant will fog the windshield.

 

 I also changed the waterpump to an aftermarket unit with metal blades. Had a slight fitting issue, the blades rubbed the housing a little at first. A quick buzz with the dremel tool fixed that in seconds.

 

You may come to regret this decision, we have seen more than one severely damaged engine case as the result of the metal blades grinding away when the shaft bearings loosen up and start to wobble, as all water pumps do.  The factory pumps use a composite impeller for a reason.

 

I've seen this on 928s over the years.  Definitely would recommend a composite impellers

I had these same issues when a battery failed.  If you want to do a quick reset, pull fuse 40 on the driver's side (LHD) fuse panel for 10 mins and then re-install.

If they come back, have the battery tested.  And, if they some back after the battery is replaced do the fuse pull again.

I just went through this on my '08 GTS.

The CAN gateway may need to be reset. To reset the CAN gateway take the key out of the ignition and remove fuse #40 for at least 10 seconds. The fuse panel is on the left side of the dashboard where the dashboard meets the door panel. Re-run the Durametric and see if the faults come back.

A BIG THANK YOU for this.....  I had some recurring gateway faults that were lingering from a failed battery.  I pulled both fuse 40 and 19 to be safe since the comfort module was also flashing codes.   So far, so good.

Very low....

The low battery will throw weird warnings on the cluster.

I've used Autoscope on Plano Parkway and Coit in the past for my wife's old Audi S4.  They worked hard to keep costs down.

They were knowledgeable and fairly reasonable.

I would avoid 5th Gear in Lewisville.  They couldn't even align my former '05 CS.

AleV8, your location shows Dallas but you mention Sonnen in CA.   If you are in Dallas I'm willing to help troubleshoot this issue if I can help.

Frederick, where in Dallas are you? 

If I'm looking at this correctly, I think this is part of the lock mechanism that helps prevent theft by slim-jimming.

If you don't think the car will be stolen, then the part looks fairly unimportant.

ALEV8, I see you are in Dallas.  What shop were you using?