Scott C

If they noted the relative shaft positions when breaking it down....  and reassembled them in the same orientation, then a re-balance shouldn't be needed.

Thanks guys for the detailed info. I confirmed that I don't have the locking diff. I interpreted locking diff as a limited slip.... Not like off-road lockers.

That said, this makes the fluid choices easy. I plan on running Royal Purple Synchromax in the trans and Mobil Delvac 75-90 in the diffs.

I just need to find a good cross to the Esso ATF for the transfer case.

I recently sold my '05 Cayenne S and bought an '08 GTS 6MT. I'd like to baseline the service on the new vehicle.

Finding info on the GTS is hit-miss so I'll post here and plead for help.

I found some other threads that detail fluid choices. These threads were a few years old so I'm hoping time and mileage experience can be shared. Here's a link to the old thread...... http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/31331-transmission-oil-and-diff-oil-change-and-oil-recommendation/

Here's what I learned from the old thread. I'd like to know if the same advice holds true for a GTS.

Transmission (6MT): Burmah BOT338 (P/N 000.043.300.38)

Transfer Case: Esso ATF LT71141 (P/N 000.043.205.09)

Front Diff: Burmah SAF-AG4 (P/N 000.043.205.30)

Rear Diff w/o locking: Same as front

Reard Diff w/locking: Burmah SAF Carbon Mod (P/N 000.043.300.37)

1. I didn't see the option for 1Y1 (locking differential)..... Does the GTS natively have a locking rear diff? I thought it may be covered under the GTS option umbrella.

2. I don't want to start a lubricant debate, but saw where Royal Purple, Mobil-1 and Redline are mentioned being used as replacement fluids. Can you share your anecdotal experience with each? Is your experience better with the factory fluids or aftermarket?

In particular, how is shifting in the MT vehicles?

Thanks in advance for your help. I'll post a pic later.

+1 on the download. On my '08 GTS, it is useless.

I think I have similar problem - leaking from the left hand side fuel tank. But mine is Right Hand Drive. Do you think the problem is the same, regardless of right or left hand drive? I guess it is simple enough to get the mechanic to check by flipping over the rear seat and open up the access metal top?

Cheers...

The problem is the same as the tanks are unchanged with respect to driver position. The left-hand side flange is known to shrink and leak vapor.

I had a code stored when I changed fixed mine. I can't remember the code number but it was a small-vapor leak in fuel system. The flange fixed it.

You will also need the special VW tool that removes the large lock nut retaining the fuel filter.

It is probably a good time to replace the fuel filter at this time, too.

Thanks PTEC. This is the same diagnosis as on 928s. The mounts are fluid filled and settle over time. Once the new mounts are in, the engine sits 1" higher in the bay and all harmonics are gone.

I'll have to look into the mounts..... The job sounds very unsavory.

Without seeing your car in person, just judging from what you're describing it sounds a lot like engine mounts to me. The symptom is a nice deep vibration for one or two seconds from the entire front end as you come to a stop. Its becoming a common issue in higher mileage first gen Cayenne's, say 80K a up but some cars don't exhibit till 100K. If you have corrected the causes of all of your DME faults and you're still getting the vibration/shake when coming to a stop, its almost guaranteed the mounts.

That surprises me as I would expect to see vibrations enter at different engine speeds, etc.

What is the best way to test or diagnose engine mounts definitively?

MAJOR Caveat when buying these manuals...... They come as a "kit".

Meaning, they are not populated in the binders. One must execute dutiful document control and update the folders by each supplement..... All 58 of them.

I've got well over 10 hours into assembling the manuals...... They are nice, but a major PITA to manage initial setup.

What do the FETs drive? Door locks?

How many miles are on the car? I ask because the valve covers are a likely culprit and you should probably have a valve adjustment done while the covers are off.

In addition to Loren's comments, the other prone areas are the breather vent gasket, oil thermostat gasket and oil return line on the top of engine under the air filter.

The valve covers and oil return tubes are fairly straightforward. The three items I mention usually facilitate an engine drop or intake removal.

Let us know what you find.

RockAuto.com has rebuilt starters ranging in price from $113 - $233.

No affiliation, just a satisfied customer.

I forgot to mention...... There were ZERO performance gains with this mod on my 2005 CS

On a normally aspirated vehicle, there are no gains to be had. If you have a turbo, then I can see some advantages where improved flow will yield more power.

The cats that are replaced are secondary cats. There are four cats in total on the Cayenne. The front pair are monitored by O2 sensors and are the only cats required for emissions. The rear pair serve as sound tuning and additional exhaust cleansing.

Replacing the rears will not void emissions or trigger a "fail" as they are not part of the active emissions system.

I had cat bypasses for a while but found the sound too raspy. I also looked at punching out the innards but that looked like a major PITA. The guts are ceramic, platinum and some other materials.

You will gain more in sound modification by replacing the rear muffler on installing bypass valves.

Did you just replace the bearing or the whole shaft assembly?

I replaced the whole shaft assembly. If you choose to replace only the bearing, you have to break down and re-assemble the shaft at the CV joint.

I wasn't prepared to do this, so I went with a Vertex rebuilt unit.

Did it make any squeals / wines / chirps that progressed to the fail point?

Mine did. It chirped at takeoff from a standstill then the sound went away as vehicle speed increased above 15 MPH. I drove it like this for about 6 months before the bearing carrier finally failed. Luckily it failed in a gradual manner so I didn't have the banging noises reported by others.

I did the throttle position reset yesterday and it helped the "dip" by about 90%

I will clean the throttle plate this weekend and hopefully take care of the remaining 10%

They have a few sets remaining. Just purchased both sets for the prices advertised above. Be warned that the manuals are specific to the 2004 MY.

I would think that would cover 2003 - 2006 for the most part but I wanted to advise.

Ohio uses "super salt" on the roads so I think you are fighting corrosion. Wish I could help more.

In the photo below, the point of prying is noted.

Also, loosen the rubber donut first. This may give you some fore/aft movement.

You may have to bang on the connection point shown below with a rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer to get an inital break. If you live where roads are salted, you may be dealing with some corrosion that is holding the two pieces together.

I agree, no air chisel, that seems very extreme and it may invalidate your core return credit.

I installed a new filter unit as a precaution while I was doing the seals.

I opened up the old filter and it was filthy black.

Oddly enough, the small leak around the seal was throwing a code that referenced a small leak in the system. I also noticed the car ran rough and was down on power. Once I replaced the seal and cleared the code, power came back and it idled much smoother.

I attribute the seal failure to ethanol gas that we are forced to run. It is nasty and dries out all the rubber bits in the fuel system.

The shaft end is convex and the diff flange is concave so it fits like a small socket joint.

I found it easier to push the shaft forward as far as possible while pulling it down from the rear differential.

A pry bar helped where I gently pulled the shaft out of the diff while pulling down.

Gents,

I'm in the middle of doing this job as the driver's side seal failed and was leaking fuel vapor while throwing a code.

What is the trick to re-installation of the components with new seals? I've tried finesse and some force with no success. What am I missing?

NVM - EDIT - Insert gasket into tank first then push filter into gasket. Yes, I had my blonde moment today. I blame daylight savings ending.

You may be onto something here. Recently the rear fuel pump has started whining rather loudly where it didn't do this in the past.

Certainly fuel pressure has an affect on idle.

I'll look into this and see if the connections are loose like yours.

I had the same issue regarding wiper caps. The car wash was knocking them off.

I fixed the issue by placing a small dab of silicone on the cap and then installing. It acts as an all-temp adhesive and I've not lost one in two years.

Here's an example

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202038072/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=silicone&storeId=10051#.UNRkjqwmVw4

Thanks a ton for the responses on the idle dip. I will address the issue this weekend.

One other thing my '05 CS does...... Upon startup after a short drive (about 5-10 mins) in the morning, I get the Battery/Generator warning with three chimes.

This only happens in cooler weather and immediately following a cold start..... Not at any other time. I suspect the battery may be indicating a slow failure but i wanted to seek some guidance first.

BTW, no error codes stored per my Durametric scan.

Tx,

Scott