jose

That's great, I already have one of those from harbor freight.

Thanks, Very helpful

Thanks,

Where's the best place to find a replacement to all this mess?

Yes sorry. Brngs=Bearings

Are you confirming that the compressor clutch need to be replaced? sorry, I don't know what is the brng , brng=berings?

Thanks for the help

It's the brng that is failing and damaged the clutch assembly.

Great Info Thanks,

I just need to know how I measure the rotors. From where to where?

Thanks Again,

Just had my rotors resurfaced today. Stock cross drilled. No cracks. Started at 27.5 mm front and 23.5 mm rear. After resurfacing, they are 27.2 mm and 23.2. mm. The local machine shop charged $24 each (they charge $16 for solid rotors). Also saw another set there, slotted and cross drilled fresh off the lathe. It definitely can be done and not expensive.

Thanks Loren,

I'll give a try. B)

How difficult is to replace this? I have replaced the serpentine belt before myself with no problem.

well, after searching this website I found this, I think this anticipate what is comming. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/12898-help-smoking-ac-pulley/page__p__63455__hl__+compressor%20+clutch__fromsearch__1#entry63455

I suspect air compressor clutch

A/C works, I haven't remove the serpentine belt yet and verify that, But it runs when engine in ON.

Possibly something got caught in the A/C pulley or perhaps something in the a/c pulley.

Does the A/C work? Can you spin the A/C pulley freely by hand with the serpentine belt removed?

I think can be, I was using the air conditioning at 76F, didn't noticed if cool air was working.

air box is fine

serpentine belt is fine

Thanks

I took my car for a ride after replaced the sway bar drop links and everything was fine until I note that the RPM's was slowing down after each red light in downtown, after few red lights the car sudden drop in RPM's stall the engine twice then I turn off the air conditioning and the RPM's improve in a way that doesn't matter much. I took the car home for a check up and let car run in the garage, everything was fine except the a strong plastic burned odor form the engine compartment, couldn't see anything except plastic residues in the engine lid, I immediately thought that something was making friction the pulley so I decide to remove Air Filter off and found this. :huh: . Something is melt in this part here label 996.126.011.51. Need your advice guys.

I visually inspect the rotors and there's no cracks, I don't track my car neither.

Will post pics later.

Thanks,

At 126,000 miles if they are the original rotors then you might need to replace them.

I will take some pictures later on, If not, I will go to add the rotors, I just want to make sure if still able to work with the pads only.

126,000 :blush:

Check the rotors for cracks and for the thickness to see if they are less than the minimum. If not cracked or below the minimum thickness, and they are not too grooved you can reuse them. It has become sort of standard to replace the rotors with the pads but if they are in good condition you can get two or three sets of pads before you replace the rotors. How many miles on the car?

It is possible to resurface drilled rotors?

According to the mechanic it need new rotors and brake pads, he stated that is not possible to resurface the rotors.

It's okay to replace the brake pads without resurface if need it?

I'm in the process to replace the brake pads as is suggested in the maintenance forum.

Please help

Just to update, this case is closed, I replace the clutch kit and the heatercore and all dissapear.

I would say about 4 hours labor.

Thanks Loren,

I took the car to the mechanic today and the release bearing was bad :thankyou: , as you said guys, but an additional inspection reveal that the clutch pedal helper spring was also bad. I won't go for an additional 240's to replace it and wait 6 days for part delivery. I want to take it calm and DIY. B) Need your help.

Thanks in advance

Well, The summer is ON and I bought the clutch, I got a SACHS clutch kit on ebay for $439, My mechanic estimate the labor for around 600.

Is this estimate right or should be less?

What's your opinion?

My main interest use is to remove the wheels and clean them on the backside as my porsche wheels are 5 spokes the dirt is easily visible and nothing better than a clean wheels.B)

Hello,

I may ask which is the best electric wrench or electric wrench kit on a porsche?

I have in ind this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-TON-ELECTRIC-SCISSOR-JACK-12V-1-2-IMPACT-WRENCH-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a0e71b80eQQitemZ180630960142QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

but is there any better let me know.

Jose B)

Thanks, I just ordered one from Pelican parts next day shipping and they are far cheaper than the dealer. The heater core was replaced nextday sucessfully after these pictures.

:thankyou:

As I promise my Porsche already hybernate, the winter is gone here in Michigan. I just want to follow up my thought about the coolant smell thru air conditioner and in fact was true. My heater exchanger was leaky as I check thru the proper steps. Here I include few pictures. I will order the Heater core today as I don't think Porsche have in stock, I'll try pelican parts first. As you can see in the pictures there is evidence of deposit residue and the bottom of the heater exchanger.

Well, that's all.

:thankyou: B)

Jose:

Looks like you definitely found the problem.

You might want to consider taking your heater core to a radiator shop and to have them evaluate whether it's possible to seal it. They can usually turn that around in a few hours and it's going to cost a lot less than a replacement from Porsche.

Thanks for posting your progress and the photos.

Regards, Maurice.

As I promise my Porsche already hybernate, the winter is gone here in Michigan. I just want to follow up my thought about the coolant smell thru air conditioner and in fact was true. My heater exchanger was leaky as I check thru the proper steps. Here I include few pictures. I will order the Heater core today as I don't think Porsche have in stock, I'll try pelican parts first. As you can see in the pictures there is evidence of deposit residue and the bottom of the heater exchanger.

Well, that's all.

:thankyou: B)

B) I'm not done with this yet. The winter is harsh here and my porsche is hibernating. I'll fix this on first day on spring, I'll let you know guys.

What most worry me is that I have the CDR-210 which has no decent single cable.

I'm wondering it is possible to built a "SELECTOR SWITCH" where you can choose CD changer or ipod.

That was essentially the idea behind my suggestion to use a "switching" 3.5mm jack. This is a jack to which you run both a source wire and a return (per channel). When a plug is inserted, that source is selected (mechanically), and when it is removed, the other (default) source is sent down the return. This appears to be how Becker Audio's hack for the CDR23 works, using the FM input in the head end.

On another note, it puzzles me that no one has come up with a comprehensive CD-changer emulator that works over Bluetooth. SIgh.

I would like to know if there's a possibility to connect an Iphone to a CDR-210.

Any help will be appreciated.

B)

Jose