orthotist

You also need to keep checking the overflow bottle and keep topping it off if it's low of course.

Apparently, this was on option on the 04 Cayenne - after searching other forums, I have found the answer!

And the answer is?

I'll go with the drive shaft bearing too!

Thank you Orthotist, is your problem resolved? I have a similar noise to your video. But mine will stop for a week or so then come back. It only makes the noise over 40mph. when coasting down hill it will go away. Porsche dealer said that the cardan shaft is more of a thump sound. I think it may be the fan??? Thoughts please….

 

I drive a 2004 Cayenne S, bought it new. Now with 175,000 miles. It's been a rock star and the best vehicle I have ever owned. 

I did solve my problem with the aftermarket cardon shaft bearing kit in the end. It's too expensive just to start replacing random parts on a Porsche so I would make sure you know for sure what it is before doing so. Well, at least if you live on a normal budget anyways.

Razor Blade! Just takes a little time to scrape it all off.

Thank you for posting this orthotist, it has helped me a lot, annoying sound has now gone!!!

No problem but hahnmgh63 was right. It lasted for a few weeks the then the rubber broke apart. Thump thump thump under load and I'm sure you know what I had to do next. I ended up doing that DIY aftermarket kit $425 and that fixed everything but that sound sure was annoying. What a piece of crap part on Porsche's part though. I just repacked the bearing with grease as the directions stated. The bearing was fine itself. The Guibo disk was the hardest due to a little rust on the bushings.

I just installed this EPS unit (European Parts Solution), supplied by Pelican Parts for around $450 including new flex disk and bolts. Took me about an hour from start to finish, and the hardest and lengthiest part was carefully jacking up the car onto stands.

 

1. Undo about 6-7 bolts for the support plate

2. Slide the old bearing support forward, grind/cut through it and take it off. (point of no return)

3. Remove the remaining rubber from the surface of the bearing with a blade.

4. Fasten the 4 allen bolts to attach the new support to the old bearing

5. Refit the 6 bolts that hold the plate on.

 

I don't think I have done an easier job on a car.

Did you add the grease to the bearing?

Any update on this as I have the same annoying noise, any info would be appreciated - thanks.

Cardon Shaft Bearing... spray it with WD40 white lithium grease and see what happens.

So, the wife came home and said " you have got to do something about that noise". We test drove it again and I crawled around inside the cab of the pig while she drove. I had my ear on the console handle and it seem to resonate quit loud from that area and at the end towards the back seat area.

When I got home, I bumped the air system to max height and went under with my WD40 white lithium grease, a mirror, a head light and started spraying the crap out of the Cardon Shaft Bearing, on both sides. The straw fit right down into the lip of the bearing along the shaft. The rubber around the shaft is all intact and no problems with that.

Went for a test ride and sure enough! SOUND IS GONE!

60,000 miles--what a sh-ty design. I will spray as needed now until I want to spend the cash on the aftermarket DIY kit.

Hope this helps somone else and thanks for all the ideas.

I have had the bearing inspected and they report everything thing is fine.

Question though! Is the rubber around the the bearing shaft the area that fails and then people just replace the bearing because of the thumping sound? I don't hear of many people replacing it becasue of the bearing sound though or them saying that replacing the bearing fixed the sound that we are describing.

I have a 06 s and just watched your video after searching for ages, I have the exact same noise and it driving me mad! Not there all the time though and completely stops when the car is not moving. Did you find out what it was?? Please let me know. Thanks

I have not yet! i do know it happens after 10-20 mins. of warming up. Greater the sound when the temp. is warmer outside.

It was high pitched whine noise, coming from center console area. It started whining around 20km/h and it was not stop till go under 20km/h. It was extremely annoying.

Where can I find your clip? Let me know, I'll listen it and let you know If I had the same sound.

THIS IS WHAT MINE IS DOING.

What's does your Cayenne get?! Just asking to see what I should be getting, some days I get 7mpg if I'm moving around, and others up 10-11 if I'm cruising around. Don't expect much more in a CTT

And what do you get on the highway?

16-17 on HWY.

Can anyone help? Maybe some other ideas?

I did read the TSB but the leak is not coming from that joint. I pulled a few parts and covers off over the weekend and found it was leaking from the outlet seal of the left intercooler. I ordered a couple of new orings (57mm dia x 4mm) for that joint, after i install them I'll post the results. thx

What ended up being the result of the replacement. I might have the same problem, just need to know if I should order the parts.

I have had the "JOY" of releasing parts for a car... Here is how it works... in Layman terms:

The VIN number is the key to the production year, however it is not unreasonable for parts that have not changed from prior produciton years to be installed in a late model car. Usually, the first year number stand as "The Part", until a change in design, materials, assembly, construction occur.

Some manufacturers mark parts with production dates to support recalls and warranty, however, not every part in every car is addressed this way.

Hopefully this helps!

This is what I think I am running into for one part number (955 624 773 02 and 995 624 773 01, fuel door actuator). Part number ending in 02 is for 2006 and up and the one ending in 01 is for 2005 and under. I don't know what came originally in the car because it was already replaced with the one ending in 02 and I again replaced it with the same. The electricals all tested fine to the actuator but the 02 part number doesn't function fine. It locks fine but when I unlock it, it slight retracts back towards to lock motion thus, keeping the fuel door locked slightly.

This can definately happen. Keep in mind that all cars are built from a bill of materials (BOM). Porsche's customization approach takes it even farther, in tha each car has its own BOM, which can be highly customized. A fellow automotive engineer and Cayenne owner tipped me off to this. The Wiring harness for his car was completely customized, which is unusual and more likely to happen in lower volume vehicles. Higher volume vehicles (Ford, Chevy, etc) are likely to have the same parts stamped and aligned by year. Where as the Cayenne is a relatively low volume car next to a Camry, so you might find parts carry over more often. They key to YOUR car is your VIN decode and your BOM.

Once I looked into it more, it seems that part # 95562477301 will also fit a 2006. I'm just going spend the $30.00, get it and try it out. All this info. has been helpful for sure.

I would take Loren up on his offer. Kind of cool knowing all of your options. Also, in the trunk under the floor where the Bose Sub or spare tire is located is a options sticker listing all of your options, and if you have the whole original manual kit the same sticker should be in one of the books, the Mx book I think, can't remember which one.

I did!

I have had the "JOY" of releasing parts for a car... Here is how it works... in Layman terms:

The VIN number is the key to the production year, however it is not unreasonable for parts that have not changed from prior produciton years to be installed in a late model car. Usually, the first year number stand as "The Part", until a change in design, materials, assembly, construction occur.

Some manufacturers mark parts with production dates to support recalls and warranty, however, not every part in every car is addressed this way.

Hopefully this helps!

This is what I think I am running into for one part number (955 624 773 02 and 995 624 773 01, fuel door actuator). Part number ending in 02 is for 2006 and up and the one ending in 01 is for 2005 and under. I don't know what came originally in the car because it was already replaced with the one ending in 02 and I again replaced it with the same. The electricals all tested fine to the actuator but the 02 part number doesn't function fine. It locks fine but when I unlock it, it slight retracts back towards to lock motion thus, keeping the fuel door locked slightly.

Scouser's VIN Decoder

Thanks Loren: It's a 2006 for sure by the three things I see.

The number is coded in the VIN. What is your VIN? The 10th digit of the VIN should be a 5 (2005) or 6 (2006). Also, the emissions tag under the hood should list what model year it is.

Vin: WP1AC29P96LA-----

I see 2006MY on that emission sticker

The manufacture date is 07/05:

The problem is part numbers for me: It's listed as an 06 on title but I'm not so sure that some of the O.E. parts aren't from 2005.

All good on the drive-train, It's been checked twice. Don't think it's air because the sound doesn't correlate with speed but i could be wrong.

I just filled out the AutoTrader.com contact info. up on the left hand side and they contacted me back.

Cold Air Intake

Fabspeed Cat delete

ECU Upgrade Flash or what ever they call it

Should put you over "S" HP

that guy in Kansas with the CTTS has my perfect car but is not responding to texts or phone messages. Pretty weird. Price is very low too.

Tim

I have chatted with him or her via email when I was looking but I had a trade to get rid of first and I ended up buying a Black CTT at the local dealer. I think it's priced correctly, it is an "S". Mileage was more important for me because I can always spend $2000 and get as many horses. I paid $28,000 for mine with 53,000 miles.

I think I bought the Hawk HPS:

Less dust than O.E. with same stopping power that I can tell. Maybe stops a little quicker.