orthotist

Finally found a way to get the video uploaded. Maybe this will shed some new light.

Did it sound like this before you had it fixed?

There was a Black CTTS on Autotrader.com in Olathe, kansas not too long ago. Don't know if it's still listed.

2006

Cayenne Turbo

U.S.A

Looking for the O.E. part number for the fuel door actuator. Inside the quarter panel area.

Thanks,

Same problem here with radio signal, sucks horribly. 2006 CTT

I know this might sound weird but the manual address some of this verbage that your mentioning about the transmission shifting up and down along with shifting points based on speed and RPM's triptronic over to automatic.

Both work while plugged in at harness and unbolted from car, but only in one direction. If I add power to it outside the car, it cycles back and forth with a pumping action just fine.

Possible radiator fan

Possible clogged radiator vents

Possible aux. Fan issue

So, I have a weird situation. I can close the fuel door and it clicks to stay closed when I push it in. Then I can lock it (with remote) and the metal rod shoots out and locks the fuel door but here is the problem. When I hit the unlock (with remote), the metal rod will not retract back to allow me to pop the fuel door back open. End result is, I have to open the hatch, reach into the side panel and pop the emergency rubber band just to put fuel into it.

I though replacing the actuator would solve my problem but I new one functions in the same manner. Does anyone have any idea what the problem or problems is?

Here is a picture of the rod.

That all makes perfect sense to me. I was just wondering if anyone had did it. Here in Kansas I would be fine without secondary cats, pretty liberal inspections. I think I would buy the pipes first before gutting the cats.

I did.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-PORSCHE-CAYENNE-TURBO-FRONT-EXHAUST-PIPE-7L5254450E-or-7L5254400A-OEM/271304958968?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D2939751651209938966%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D261174241615%26

If you are removing them anyways for $600 straight pipes are you then selling the OE cats or are you keeping them to change back in case anyone needs them to pass an inspection? Do most people keep the cats for a "just in case" factor?

I guess for the same reason anyone would take theirs cats off and replace it with a straight pipe that cost close to $600. It's a cost saving question. I haven't heard anyone on this thread do it anyways. The difference between doing it and a straight pipe is the materials inside the pipe.

I thought I might find on Ebay or someone that had already replaced them with aftermarkets and do it to them to see what happens. Clogged cats would work well. I was wondering more if anyone else has done it already?

Looks nice, better for that money, right? LOL

I know a lot of people send a lot of money buying straight pipes for the secondary cats to get that extra sound and HP. Has anyone ever removed the cats and just "rodded" it out. Meaning, chopping/bashing (hammer) the honeycomb core out with a metal conduit pipe until opened up. Then reinstall them and done! Should have same effect right?

Might be a $10 mod, max!

Well, I check the bearing this morning. Everything seems and looks fine. So, it's not driveshaft bearing (at least for now). I'm still searching for the squeal?

Did you just replace the bearing or the whole shaft assembly?

Is it easy to just to the bearing itself? Is it pressed on, easy to press off. Just dont see a point in replacement of whole shaft when bearing might be the problem.

I replaced the whole shaft assembly. If you choose to replace only the bearing, you have to break down and re-assemble the shaft at the CV joint.

I wasn't prepared to do this, so I went with a Vertex rebuilt unit.

Did you just replace the bearing or the whole shaft assembly?

I replaced the whole shaft assembly. If you choose to replace only the bearing, you have to break down and re-assemble the shaft at the CV joint.

I wasn't prepared to do this, so I went with a Vertex rebuilt unit.

I've seen this bearing kit you buy without removing the drive shaft. You cut the housing off and install and a bearing repack with grease. Anyone know anything about that kit? Its on youtube and there website.

Any squeals wines chirps before it started the thump under the consle area?

Can you pm me your email address.

Did you just replace the bearing or the whole shaft assembly?

Did you just replace the bearing or the whole shaft assembly?

Did it make any squeals / wines / chirps that progressed to the fail point?

1) I changed only center bearing by myself. Bearing cost was around 100€, and it took around 4 hours to do the whole job.

2) Well I had slight vibrations on highway driving. Last week I had alignment done, and changed winter 19'' with summer 21'' and all vibrations are gone.

3) The good thing is, that you can change engine mounts without removing engine on the S. On the Turbo you have to take out the engine from the car to do this job.

4) I changed valve body by myself, and it was easy job. It take one day to do it, coz you have to cool down the car, and it cost me around 1300€ with OE valve body, filter, gasket, and Mobil ATF. I would change body first, than clear TCM adaptations, and maybe you'll not need to change TCM. I can say, that this job is worth every penny.

I also have 04 CS, and he cost me lots of thousands € last year, but I still love it :) I love driving much more than the destination. :)

Can you describe the sound of the carrier bearing you started to hear and where it was coming from in the cabin area. I have a video clip, maybe you could listen and let me know if it is the same.

Thanks