Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

BoxsterRS

Members
  • Posts

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by BoxsterRS

  1. Your profile says you have a 1998 Boxster. LEDs in the instrument cluster did not start until 2001. So, I guess you need to replace a bulb?

    If, on the other hand, you have a bad LCD display, then I do not know of a replacement source.

    What illuminates the center LCD isn't doing so now. Is this a bulb that needs to be replaced ?

  2. I just changed my ignition lock and happened to lose the digital speedo in the middle. Also, there are a few other things I want to fix. First, I have a bird in my window, its squeaks, clutch pedal sounds like a wooden door, and the unlocking and locking of the car sound like my car has loaded twin AK-47 and is ready to shoot. Attached are the pictures and videos of the problems mentioned. Can anyone help me resolve this issues?

    Windows Squeak,
    Door Lock, and the clutch pedal,
  3. LOL! :lol:

    i believe your car is Ocean Blue. mine too (MY97).

    i can't help with everything you listed, but i can give you some suggestions.

    if the steering wheel is vibrating, it could be that your wheels need to be balanced and/or you need an alignment. does the wheel vibrate at a certain RPM range or speed? when driving on a straight, level road, if you let go of the wheel does the car track straight or does it pull to the left/right?

    if the car is hesitating to start in the cold, i would suspect the battery. how old is the battery? batteries seem to last about 4 years. but maybe it's just darn cold out. my car has a pretty new battery and if the temp is really cold (5-10F) the car doesn't like it, but will start reluctantly.

    not sure what to tell you on the vibrating pedals. and i'm not sure what a 'ballish' sound is. can you describe it?

    hesitation when accelerating has been traced to the MAF on more than a few occasions. have you ever replaced it or cleaned it?

    i hope this helps with your **** car. :lol:

    Thanks, I replaced the battery(actually my dad did) with a crappy -3000watt I guess from pepboys but he insists its ok. I have never aligned the car since I got it, and the cold start, I forgot to mention, I cleaned the throttle body. The sound the car makes is the same as the one it does when the throttle body is disconected and doesn't start. Hope fixing them resolves it for ever.

  4. First of all, I own a 1998 Boxster Blue metallic or whatever it is blue green and purple. Second, I changed the engine mount, brake pads, serpentine belt, brake pads, and rwl tires. Third the cars pedals vibrate a bit, sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. Fourth, I hear a ticking sound coming from the passenger dash side stationary or on the move. Fifth, The steering wheel vibrates a bit. Sixth, There is a ballish sound coming from the soft top area, not the rear control arms. And finally the most recent prob. When starting cold, the car hesitates to start. I also noticed, that when accelerating somewhere from 900rpm-2000rpm, the car sort of has a delay like if the valve from the throttle body was stuck or no lubricated. FINALLY, HELP!!!. I want to fix all of this before April 11, 2007 which is my birthday. Thanks to anyone who helps and even those who just read it and say too bad for you!!!

  5. I own a 98 Box and just replaced the engine mount, serpentine belt, spark plugs and brakes. Before I did all of this I had this anoyinh little noise coming from the back everytime I went through rough roads, speed bump, or hole(small ones). I highly doubt its the rear control arm, when I turn it makes no noise at all, its not spead dependant and I can hear it everyt ime I go through something rough as I mentioned before. This weekend I'll jack the car from the end, remove the rear wheels and tap the suspension with a rubber mallet. Any suggestions as to what is happening? Also, my dad decided to replace the battery once the oem was dead with one from pep boys or autozone. The thing is that in the morning or cold starts(I live in P.R. so its not cold at all) the car hessitates to start. Probably after the second or third try the car starts normal. The firs one the car starts but like if it was drowned(thats how it sounds) and shuts off. Afterwards it runs normal. I also changed the engine oil. I'm not using the car until I can fix the problems. Hope someone can help. I have the Bentley Manual and am a sort of new sort of experienced mechanic.

  6. I really don't know much about this so this is why I'm asking!!! What does a MSD CD or digital, which ever model do to the engine? And how does it benefit it ? I've read the claims made by the manufacturer but want other opinions on the matter. Is this a worthy investment? What purpose does it have? Can it be used with my Boxster and would I need this (Tach Adapter (Cars with Magnetic Pickup Distributor))? Just want to get informed

  7. Its not too bad of a job, just replaced one a couple months ago. I found it easier to put the rear of the car up onto a set of rhino ramps. Then, put a floor jack (with a pad)right at the point where the engine and trans come together. This will give you lots of support without getting in the way. You'll find the mount needs to be taken out as an assembly with the bracket to the chassis. The center bolt comes out easily with the assembly out of the car. There are some upper nuts/bolts on the mount to engine which you might need to accces through the panel behind the seats. Sorry I don't have pics, on our other computer(not near it).

    You can support the engine from up top but most people don't have the engine/trans suppport bar. An Autozone might have one around you but if your not careful it quite easy to damage the gutters that it rests on. :cheers:

    Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Very helpfull

  8. I have a 98 Boxster, that the engine mount seems to be broken. I bought the bentley repair manual and it shows detailed intrsuctions on how to replace it. I want to get some forum member imputs that have done the actual replacement. I plan on doing the repair with my dad over the weekend. Is there anything that the manual doesn't cover, and will I need to jack the engine ? I really am going to follow the instructions but if anyone outhere has done it and has some tips I'd gladly appreciate it. My question to jacking the engine is becuase I don't have the repair manual with me and want to clear that from my mind.

  9. I think everyone is having a problem with the ignition switch. I had the same problem, went to my porsche dealer and they told me it was probably the switch, so I had to buy the entire lock assembly. After installing it everything went back to normal. When the switch starts failing, all electronics in the car go crazy (Lights wont turn on, radio doesn't work, a'c not working. It just messes your electronics up)

  10. The parts costs were about $3,000. The big items were:

    $550 - engine mounting kit

    $1200 - Sachs sport clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing

    $700 - dual mass flywheel (the original one needed replacement)

    $350 - throttle housing to convert from e-gas to cable

    This also included new anti-freeze, new Mobil 1 oil, oil filter, etc., but does not include headers and sport cats. The car ran great with the original headers and cats, but ran out of wind at about 5500 rpm. I subsequently had a cone air filter, performance headers and cats installed and it now pulls strongly all the way to red line. This also does not include the cost of the motor and ECU.

    Labor ran $2000. This also included reprogramming the ECU. Remember this was 4 years ago and mine was the first conversion they did so they were learning to some extent. They have done some since then so I would guess that it would cost less now. Maybe the parts costs are lower now as well. I am sure they can give you a good estimate.

    The car is transformed. It makes it into what it should have been to start with.

    Email me if you want more detail.

    How much did the engine cost you ?

  11. I'm having problem with my 98'Box e brake lever. When I pull up the e0brake the park light does not light up. This does not let me lower my top. Has anyone had this problem before ? or is this a common issue with the car. If there is a fix some one let me know, and if I need to buy a new e-brake same thing let me know. I would preffer the fix rather than buying the 300$$ lever sold here in PR.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.