philhan

Hi Loren:

I have a Durametric tool before they imposed this 3 car restriction. If I download the latest software will it have this 3 car restriction?

I'm a little above 96,000 miles and I have changed the oil at around 6,000 miles. I had a recent oil analysis done at Blackstone and the results came back very positive---with no fuel or coolant in the oil and all the other stuff looking "good."

Under comments they wrote that my engine is "nice wearing." I also did a TBN analysis and it came back at 5.3---meaning that there is a lot of active additive remaining in the oil. When it reads 1.0 it's too low. They suggested that since I am close "to average levels for engine wear, we suggest you could try a 7,000 mile oil change."

Hi Loren:

Thanks for the quick replies.

Did as stated and nothing.

Still getting the same codes:

P1602--factory fault code 108--Power Supply Open Circuit

24, 31, 3,

I don't know what I did to cause all this. Any other ideas Loren or do I have to visit the dealer?

Thanks

Today is just not my day.

I was messing with my fusebox just to make sure that it wasn't just a blown fuse. I don't know why but then I disconected my battery. I re-connected everything and then I try to start my car and it is totally dead. I turn the key and the engine is not turning over at all.

Now I get a bunch of fault codes:

fault code #: 3, 24,25, 31, and P1602--Power supply open circuit.

HELP

Hi Loren:

Thanks for the info.

Where will would I find this thing? Also, if it is bad what thing would I have to replace?

Iginition switch is ok.

I ran the Durametric code reader and it throws up Fault Code 31: Motor, fresh air-fan voltage too low or voltage too high.

I checked the fuses but could not find one for the motor fresh air fan. Anyone know?

my pixels on my instrument cluster were burning out, so the dealer ordered a new cluster. well last night i dropped it off for service.

well they put in the new cluster, and my mileage on it went from 16,900 to 29,116.

any ideas on why? they cant figure it out so right now my mileage is reading at 29k, and yesterday when i dropped it off it read at 16k.....

i got it back and theyre gonna try to figure it out, ordering a new cluster to try it again. the dealer said when they put in the new cluster it automatically jumped to 29k. :angry:

any thoughts???

Don't know...but same thing happened to me in my Land Rover...but then I realized it was in Kilometers not miles maybe this is the case with yours?

So I just did an oil change myself and felt sort of like a man. MY99 with about 96K miles on the odo and I'm driving today feeling sort of proud that I didn't screw up the oil change and how there's nothing wrong with the car....of course then I notice the air conditioner is not working or rather the fans are not blowing. I stop turn the A/C on and off and it looks like it is working, check the front radiators and they are blowing, but no matter what I push the fans are not blowing.

Any ideas as to what might be the problem?

I had been having a loud tapping, sounds like drivers side, coming from my engine. It's in perfect sync with 1 cylinder so I really thought a lifter went bad. I took it to a garage that races Porsches and is well known to have them swap out the lifters. When they drained the oil, it was full of aluminum. An oil change was done less than 100 miles ago. They said they believe the balance shaft broke and basically I'm shafted and need a new engine. The thing I questioned is the tapping is in perfect sync with 1 cylinder and no CEL light. Not having the $$$ anytime soon, its just not an option. It's a 99 C4 nightmare. Has anyone had any recent quotes on remanufactured engines? I keep on hearing the prices went up. Prob due to all the engines blowing up. I can't believe Porsche just ignores such a problem and there isn't a class action suit yet. After my 91 c2 having the valve guide problem, my Boxster ticking time bomb, and now a 996 blowing up and being driven so lightly, this will be my last Porsche. That's 3 generations of cars with MAJOR engine problems. And I heard the 993's weren't good either. I think Porsche should have "engine replacement" at the 50K service interval as standard practice.

sorry to hear...how many miles on the engine?

Castrol Optitemp LG 2

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdeta...ntentId=6004156

Thanks Loren!

Happy Holidays everyone! :cheers:

Ever since I found this forum I've been doing all maintenance services and even some mod installs myself. I plan on doing a brake flush and an oil change for my "minor service" and was looking at the check list that dealers used for the minor service and they state that they lubricate hood, doors, and deck lid hinges. I was wondering what type of lubricant they use.

Anyone know? Thanks!

Seems like there's some seepage. No drops on the garage floor or anything and it doesn't look too bad. But I was under the car installing my fabspeed by-pass pipes and noticed some oil. I took a pic of it. Anyone know where it might be coming from?

Thanks!

Hey Loren:

Sorry if i wasn't clear but here are the values:

Stage 1: 14500 :drive:

Stage 2: 140 :(

140 sounds like a lot. Engine has a little over 91,000 miles on it and feels strong.

Ok I received the Durametric code reader today and it's pretty cool. Able to diagnose and clear my check airbag light. I was fooling around with it and checked my "actual values" and it states this:

That I have redlines 14500 times and that I have EXCEEDED redline 140 times. I drive the car hard and usually do take it up to redline but rarely do I hit the limiter and to my knowledge I don't think I overrevved the engine a 140 times....I mean that would mean the engine would have some pretty serious damage right? Anyone else experiencing these values with this reader?

Phil

I just had the airbag light problem and had a local dealer diagnose and replace the driver's side buckle. I've had the same problem in two other bimmers in the past 6-8 years so it's a manufacturer issue...I'm betting they all ultimately source the buckle system or components from the same european manufacturers. Wish I saw this topic prior to last week...would have saved me $528.

Update:

Sprayed the seat belts, and all connectors underneath the seats two days ago with Deoxit D5. I received the Durametric reader today. Airbag fault code is 45: Driver side seat belt buckle unplugged. Checked everything underneath and everything looked ok so I cleared the code and so far it has not come back on. So everything so far is ok.

GREAT TIP :notworthy:

I didn't remove the seat. I just gave each buckle a pretty good shot around the insides edges (with a rag rapped around the outside of the buckle to catch any over spray), and under the seat passenger seat a good shoot into each wire entry position in the plastic junction box (about two inches square) where the wires from the belt buckle lead. Don't forget to attach the little red tube to the spray can.

Ok I was finally able to locate a dealer in Los Angeles who sold this stuff....if anyone is interested West LA Music is an authorized dealer. I sprayed the seat belt and the connectors underneath the seat. Nothing yet. I did order the Durametric reader, it seems like a good investment and I'll clear the codes when I receive it hopefully later this weeks. I will post an update to see if this solution works.

Thanks for the tip.

Phil

Hi guys:

Ok I just got the dreaded air bag warning light last night and it's bugging the crap out of me everytime I drive because I get fixated on the red glow.

So I did have the dealer fix the airbag and seat belt under warranty a couple of years ago and it's been fine. So I'm assuming I have the updated gold connectors that Loren is talking about so after reading this post I want to try and clean them myself.

Questions:

Where are the sensors located? Do I have to remove the seats?

Is there anyway to clear the code without using the scanner? Can I disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to clear the code?

Many thanks

Phil

I have bought a 2000 911 cab. I have Bridgestone S03 n008 on the front and Bridgestone S02 n002 on the rear. I went to my local dealer for my 45k service and was told that I had major tire issues. They made it sound as if my car was unsafe to drive on the road because all 4 tires do not have the same "N" rating . I was told that even though my front tires are new and the rears are getting worn and will need to be replaced in 3000 to 5000 miles that I have to do all 4 at the same time to get the same "N" numbers. I went on to tirerack.com and read all about the "N" rating information that they had.....it still didn't answer my question. It is not a matter of buying 4 new tires it just seems like a waste of 2 good tires. Thank you for any comments.

I'll be concerned with mixing and matching different models but not the N rating. I'm on my second set of Yoko's and they are not N rated and never had an issue

Don't know where you live, but I live in Southern California and have a MY 99 with almost 90K miles and have been using factory fill OW since day one and I have had no problems with the engine to date....knock on wood.

I was on a Ferrari forum and saw this link for this product called the LiquidVac, a fluid removal system, to do oil changes. You apparently put this tube into your dipstick and siphon all the oil. I checked out the website and apparently it's designed for oil changes. Seems like a good idea. Is this product ok to use on 996's? Here is the link to the company's website: www.liquidvac.com

Thanks for the info guys.

Phil

I was just looking at the maintenance check list for MY99 996 and it seems like the air filter needs to be changed every 15K miles. Is that right?

Also what's your thoughts on what I should do at the 90K mile service. I took a 1200 mile road trip in December and got the full 90,000 major service (oil, air filter, plugs, transmission fluid replaced) at 80,000 miles. Now that I am approaching 90K actual miles what should I do? I did replace the oil and oil filter and will probably replace the air filter but anything else?

Thx.

Phil

Yep probably just condensation. If you look under your car, there is a long thing tube that runs along the right side of your car and if your AC's been on and it's hot outside water will condense on that tube and start dripping. When I first noticed it on my car I freaked out but then I touched it and it was cold and I figured that it had something to do with the AC.

Thank you Loren. Phil, for $900, I could fly out to Santa Monica with the wife, spend the weekend, and change the part. Save you $40.

In other words, an easy to do job, shouldn't cost that much at the dealer.

Hahah...next time I need something done I'll send you an email.

Ok so everyone's replies helped me convince that I'm better off doing it myself. I called the dealer back requesting not to have the work done and that I'll be towing the car back. But they wanted $300 ($145 an hour X2 for labor) spent trying to figure out the problem. So then I started adding the numbers $300 plus the part itself plus the time having her towed back to my house made me bite the bullet and let them do it. Of course now I feel like i'm being fleeced and that I have a big "sucker" sign on my forehead...doh!

But I was told I can pick her up today and I am a glad it was nothing too serious.

Thanks again though for everyone's help. :renntech:

And Loren I know I'm a cheapie since I'm not a "contributing" member but I will be right after this email. This site is awesome.

Phil

Try removing and cleaning the Idle Control Valve on the left side of the throttle body. Spray with carb cleaner. This is assuming you have a C2 and not a C4.

....well according to the dealer you are right. They want to replace the idle control valve. They quoted me a price of $940 parts and labor. Does that sound right? I normally go to the dealer in Torrance and trust my service advisor there but I didn't want tow it so far since the Beverly Hills Porsche Service Center, which is in Santa Monica, is like 10 blocks away. This is my first time there.