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Hey Loren do you happen to have instructions on how to install the wheel bearings? I had them pressed in and out at the local machine shop for my dad's 993tt so I can do that. I just wanted to know the dissasembly etc. with torque settings as well and how entailed it is. Thanks as always. Sean

If you don't want to read the stuff below, Does anyone have the PCNA rep's contact information for whom would be the rep for the San Diego Ca area? Thanks I am just sick of dealing with all this crap!!!!!! IN any event,my new clutch was installed in july of last year at pioneer. Ever since the installation it has never been right. I have repetedly taken it in there and each time they did recognize a problem and the first time chalked it up to the clutch pushrod being installed backwards. About a week later it feels bad again and they adjusted something and bled it. It felt better for about a few days, then started getting really bad. I took it in again and rebled same deal but they commented that they thought the pressure plate was defective. I also inquired if they surfaced the flywheel a common practice when replacing the clutch, if not by machine by hand to mate it properly and remove heat spots etc. They said they hadn't nor had they replaced the flywheel. I also made the mistake of having the RMS done when it wasn't leaking at the same time the clutch was done. Result it leaked and took it back where it was replaced. Not long after it leaked again. I was so fed up with the negligent technitions that upon the advice of a few board members I went to Hoehn, which is considerable farther than Pioneer to where I live and in the oposite way of my normal commute making it farther yet still. Upon going there I complained about the clutch and the RMS the diagnosed the clutch as having a bad hydrolic solenoid I believe it is called? They replaced that at around 250 bucks or so. Then they also said that with the RMS that if it was an installation negligence issue and not a RMS failure that I would have to foot the bill. Luckily it was the RMS that was defective and all was replaced RMS wise for free. I have still had the clutch problems. I have taken it in complaining of the clutch 2-3 times and same result. It feels fine and within spec. This is when the clutch was only a few months old and I also was out of town the entire month of Dec. Before I took the clutch in, I specifically asked for the PCNA rep's schedule because I knew the problem was likely not going to be resolved. He swore that it woudln't be necessary and talked me out of the need. Thinking that I would get my clutch warranted I made the appointment. Also upon my detail of the clutch as engaging high and being way stiff compared to when I initially recieved the clutch, I was always told that it was "within spec" or "normal". It obviously wansn't and I had Ben in LJ drive it because I thought I was going crazy. He confirmed it was bad. This last visit was for complaining about the clutch and I had been hearing whine from the front, which I thought were wheel bearings. Upon takning the car in and my service advisor saying it was normal upon his suggestion I went with him on a drive. Immediately when he let out the clutch it was engaging poorly which I could tell even in the passenger seat. The shifts were far worse clunking as the release point is always crappy, which I chalk up to the defective PP. Upon noting the poor release, he replies, "oh, it is the shifter"! WTF I call him out. There is no way it is the shifter I reply and it's all the clutch. He then tries harder to be smoother but still poor shifting and engagement. I noted how the pp seems to change it's release point up hills and it difficult to release while doing so. He managed to go up the hill just fine but slipping the clutch just over 2k!!! I was like dude! We are going back and forth about the clutch and finally he says that we'll just have to agree to disagree. Meanwhile he is carrying a bit of speed through a corner obviously "feeling my suspension". I was somewhat insulted that he was taking the corner like that. He wasn't going that fast, but there was clearly no need to do so in the first place. Then we switch to the bearing noise which he acknowledged at least. Before getting out of the car he tells me that a pcna guy just happens to be coming in today and that he will have him drive it. I am extremely happy because now I can get hopefully some better news. I get a call today to call him back. He says that the wheel bearings are in fact bad and the cost will be 850 bucks!!! That seems extremely excessive to me so I say that I cannot afford to pay that and must pass, plus the fact that I am a student. Then he tells that the pcna guy drove it and that he noted that it was within spec and normal. I find this interesting given the "convenience" of the timing etc. So I ask what the guys name is then. He starts going, uh, uh, We dont' give out his name. I say that if he found it was ok then I would like to discuss it with him and make note of who he is. He says that he will have to get his service managers permission to release the name. What a bunch of BS are my thoughts. I believe that in fact no pcna guy drove it, and because I am a younger guy he thought he could lie to me and appease me doing so. I am still a law student however and am allergic to manual labor- shoveling the bs. Does anyone have the PCNA rep's contact information for whom would be the rep for the San Diego Ca area? Thanks I am just sick of dealing with all this crap!!!!!!

Awesome Thanks Loren!

Hey Loren I am going to install a set of headers on my car pretty soon. As I got them 3rd party from a friend, do you have the specs or instructions on installation? I am mainly interested in torque settings for the bolts. Thanks Sean

No, I meant your alcantara compared with porsche oem alcantara like used on the headliner.

c2.

where did you get the parts do you have a picture of the material next to the oem material? I wonder how well it matches to existing. Cool though.

It was in fact the switch, and silly me for taking the connector off the clutch switch! What does that switch do anyways?, as there is another switch that actually is the depress to start switch. BTW as I posted before about my cruise not working, it magically does now YEAY!!! I am one happy camper for 15 bucks. Thanks guys. Sean

My brake lights are on and will not go off with applying pressure to the brakes or with the ebrake down all the way. I went under the car and pushed on the switch on the brake pedal and it didn't turn the lights off or on. I remember the connector popping off a couple of times before and there is 1 spring in it, however some time ago I found a spring on the ground about the same size. Are there two springs in that connector. Also does it matter what way I put the connector on? there are two tabs. I tried flipping it 180 and nothing. ARGGGGG What is the problem? On another note my cruize also doesn't work but I haven't thought anything of it. A notable problem with that was said to be the switch under there as well. Anything???? Am I messing with the wrong switch, and is there another that might be simply stuck or something? I don't want to drive the car with the lights on for liability reasons, and it is my daily driver help!!!!!!!!!

I have messed with the tire pressures to get my preferances right a bunch and it doesn't change. I am almost positive that it is the wheel bearings- :(

ah, good idea. Thanks I will do. I think the more important thing is to check for cracks is what I have been told I can use alcohol and see where it seep. I will do both as well with the tubes- :)

Thanks I was told the same thing. I have bfg kd's and have heard this-

Is there a tolerance range of the restance?

Hey Loren is there any specs or instructions in the diagnosis of the coil packs and the extension tubes, i.e. how to look for signs of wear or cracks? Is there a way to test the coils to see if they're within spec? Like checking the resistance or someting? Thanks I am going to change the plugs again, and want to make sure everything down there is 100% :)

Lately I think that my wheel bearings are bad in the front as I have a whine that occurs while driving. I take it out of gear and still noise, It occurs without breaking. I did run those 25mm spacers for a 100 miles with the re's to make them fit, and afterward the noise started. If that is the problem how difficult would it be to replace them? Can I do it without throwing off the alignment i.e. without too much dissasembly? Thanks Sean

I hear that it is extremely difficult to find parts as porsche doesn't release them directly. Unless you buy a decent tranny and do the swap you are relegated to buying a remanny from Porsche.

BTW a nice tip that was not included is to push down where the screwheads went through, this will provide a much smoother mating surface, i.e. FLUSH! I also used silicone. Loren, please add this tip to that tutorial it is very important for a perfect job! thanks Sean BTW I put in black ones painted to match my black exterior! what a difference over the 99 grey!!!

that is pretty neat. I actually have had that problem causing a CEL. I am going to try that wrap because they said they replaced the oil cap but it looks old to me :)

I don't know about Porsche but after building a few motors myself taught by a Nascar mechanic a non-detergent oil is preferred so that everything seats better, along with specific rev holding for a time for breaking in the cam-

Nada? there has to be something in the servicing???

Is there a particular way or product to use to lubricate the cable for my gas pedal? I think it's something done on the major service but it has felt not perfect lately and i have been wondering if that could be it. Thanks.

my traction control doesn't kick in unless there is some quasi traction situation. If feather the throttle out of somewhere for instance if you do it smoothly it won't kick in. Basically it needs to be a jarring type traction issue, i.e. not constant or absent. and BTW in the dry it is invasive and annoying if you are really getting on it.

did you call sunset? they can also search all other deals as they do inventory assessments 2x a month so it's relatively accurate. If they don't have it ask who does and they should tell you

Ok went for the drive. WOW it has never been this good even with the factory adjustment when I got the car! I highly advise adjusting the shifter before the install or for that matter doing so even afterward if there is some doubt-

150k? I would like to hope for that but dunno. Thanks for qualming my concern