auto-xr

Here is an update. I was able to get the lever lock plate out of the way and I can now open up the front/rear lids. I took some pictures to help those that are faced with the same issue in the future and would be glad to share them. Please PM me if you need to see them.

Thanks again to all that helped.

:)

Thanks for the info guys. I'll try the new suggestion.

If it comes down to getting to the locking solenoid, I may need to disassemble the lever housing as per the links below.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/19949-trunk-and-engine-compartments-locked-battery-fine-cvar-unlocked/?hl=%2Btrunk+%2Blocked

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/33-hoodtrunk-latch-release-removalinstall/

I'll try to get to this over the weekend. Wish me luck.

Hi Logray,

I tried your suggestion but it didn't work. After a certain point, you can't toggle back and forth any longer. The locked red light stays on. You have to pull the inside door handle once before you can actually click the lock button off. I even tried the procedure with the key in the accessory position still with no luck. :( I'm open to any other suggestions.

Hi All,

Wondering if someone can chime in with some help. My battery died and as a result my front trunk and engine lid are both locked. I tried all sorts of methods to get the proper voltage to the car via the cigarette lighter outlet but nothing worked. I finally had to go under the right front wheel well to manually open up the front trunk via the emergency cable located there. I was able to put in a new battery, and start the car. Unfortunately both the front and back lids are still locked.

I tried using the key in the door lock to lock/unlock the door. I tried using the remote control. I kept the key in the door lock while trying to open up the front/back lids. The doors locks/unlocks like they should and the car can be started. The only issue is that I can' t open the front/back lids.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Logray,

Thanks for the link. It had all I needed to get the computer ready for my smog test. I wish I looked up the procedure beforehand. It would've saved me my Saturday morning. :)

Any update on this? I drove my car over 130 miles this past Saruday but my computer still doesn't pass the readiness check. Did the drive cycle work?

Here is my question link.

Hi, thanks for the reply. I'd appreciate the driving check links if you have them handy. FWIW, I'm using an Innova OBD2 code scanner to check if the computer is ready.

Hi, thanks for the reply. I'd appreciate the driving check links if you have them handy. FWIW, I'm using an Innova ODBD2 code scanner to check if the computer is ready.

I have a 1999 996 C2 with Motronic version 5.2.2. I had some 02 sensor errors and replaced both the upstream and downstream sensors on the passenger side bank. Afterward, I reset the computer an drove for over 100 miles continuous and 130 miles for the day. Anyone know how many more miles I'll have to drive to get the computer ready for a smog check? Is there a faster way

Here is a copy of the invoice. Note I also ordered extra washers and the threaded bushings that come in contact with the plate just in case.

This thread is a great resource for anyone that has been frustrated by Porsche's lack of forethought in this matter. I just ordered a couple plates from Sunset Imports in OR and they were not too expensive ($24.86 ea). I attached a couple pics. At this point, I just need to schedule the installation on a free weekend to get them in.

I have a weird issue with my driver's side door. When I use my key to unlock the door, it unlocks the door but when I try to open the door, it doesn't let me. I do see that the window actually goes down a little as is normal operation. When the driver's side door is stuck, I have to enter from the passenger side and actuate the inside door handle latch twice to get it to open. This problem seems to happen off and on. I'm wondering if something in the door mechanism just needs to be lubed. Anyone have any experience with this issue?

Sorry, I misread your model year.

P1276 Aging of Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Below Lower Limit

Probable cause:

- Oxygen sensor

P0159 Aging of Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6)

Probable cause:

- Oxygen sensor

Replace the O2 sensor on bank 2 ahead of the cat.

Your CEL was on solid not flashing correct?

Hi Loren,

Thanks for the update. I'll order a pre cat O2 sensor for bank 2 and see what happens. Hopefully, that'll take care of the problem. I'll keep the board posted.

P0430 Catalytic Converter Conversion Too Low (Cylinders 4 - 6)

Probable cause:

TWC

P0159?

How about P0158

P0158 Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Short Circuit to B+

Probable cause:

- Wiring harness

- Oxygen sensor

- DME control module

P0133 Aging of Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Below Lower Limit

Probable cause:

- Oxygen sensor

Very odd. These faults say the O2 sensor ahead of the cat on bank 1 is bad -- and -- the O2 sensor on bank 2 after the cat is bad.

I would check the wiring on all the O2 sensors and verify that it is not broken or corroded. Visually inspect the O2 sensors for damage or signs that some oil (or other substance) has gotten on the sensors.

Then (and only then) would I replace the affected sensors. Reset the codes and see if the bad TWC comes back.

Hi Loren,

Thanks for your feedback. I double checked the Durametric codes and I definitely have a P0159 and P1276. I also ran it against the following link:

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/489609-info-sources.html

The P0430 was taken with my ODBCII scan tool however just recently.

The P0159/P1276 combination were both taken at 3 to 4 different intervals during the past year. Is it possible that the Bank 2 pre-cat, twc, and post-cat are all bad?

Just checking to see if anyone can help chime in on some error codes I've been getting. I've reset the computer multiple times but the same error codes seem to come up.

P0430 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank2

P1276 Aging of Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Below Lower Limit

P0159 Porsche fault code 23 - 02 sensor ageing behind cat. c. bank 2

From the looks of it, I think that I should change the front and rear O2 sensors for bank 2 and see what happens. Thoughts?

On stock 8" wide fronts, you could go up to 245. 245/35/18 would be ideal. Toyo R888s offer a good size selection.

Hi all, im trying to locate a set a tires for my vehicle (2002 c4s, 6 speed). ive read a bunch of posts of various tire reviews, but havent run across any posts on what i am hoping to do. My right rear is showing chords (!!) and i have an open track day coming up on 5/29 so i need to get some tires in a hurry. i dont imagine i will pass tech with the current tires, nor would i want to chance it. let me put a few things out there:

i am a complete novice at racing cars. ive been karting for the last two years, but this is my first track event with the porsche. i wont be driving it insanely hard, i just want to learn how the car reacts at speed. that said, i wont need a crazy sticky tire. my porsche is my only car, i daily drive it, so i need something with decent tread wear rating. i dont care to do ps2's. on my list are conti's, kumho spt, and the the bfgoodrich kdw2. my question is concerning the kdw2. it comes in a 295/35 instead of 295/30. they also make a 225/45, so i could potentially have a matched set there. if i upped the tire size all around, will this adversely effect the AWD system? damage to the drive train is my biggest concern right now. there are alot of tires in 295/35 that are interesting to me, the kumho MX included. any pointers would be appreciated.

Best-

996 tire spec is 25"overall tire diameter. 255/35/18 and 295/30/18. Going taller may rub, will increase center of gravity, and could hurt acceleration.

When upgrading to a gt3 control arm to increase camber,do you also need to replace the trailing arms?My car is a 99 996 that is primarily a DE car and My goal is to improve the handling and tire ware.

JIC coilovers have camber adjust plates for the front.

Hi there

I just bought myself a roof transport system for my 98 coupe. Can't get the existing screws out from under the flaps no matter what I do though, and am slowly destroying the heads of the screws. Have noticed there is the bolt that can be seen from underneath, number 12 in the picture in the previous post above. Can I screw this out instead from underneath, which should be much easier than trying further with the screws from above? Appears the screws are screwed into the bolt?

Or will I damage something by doing this?

Cheers

Greg

I ran into the same thing. Anyone have some advice on this? Using a easy out drill bit makes me uneasy.

Sorry if this is a stupid question :rolleyes: but what is an "RSS Plenum"? I have read many posts on this mod but I'm unclear on what it is. Thanks in advance

Phillipj

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthr...681#post1316681

Thanks guys for the replies :D :renntech:

some guys on this forum have done 15mm all around.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthr...ght=15mm+spacer

Installation of the 3rd break light was very very easy and I think the end result looks great. Here are some pics:

This is a good value visual upgrade I highly recommend!

Did you also replace the light in the tail?

Yeah, that's why I bought them. I figured the performance of the LEDs was worth a few bucks more. I also wanted to have both the third brake lights smoked, because I didn't want red lights anywhere if I could help it. Here are some pics...sorry about the quality.

Chuck, just wondering if you dyno'd the car to see if the header/exhaust combo increased your hp/torque? I'm considering Schnell headers and a Fabspeed exhaust combo and would like to know if there could be positive results. Thanks.

Chuck, just wondering if you dyno'd the car to see if the header/exhaust combo increased your hp/torque? I'm considering Schnell headers and a Fabspeed exhaust combo and would like to know if there could be positive results. Thanks.