auto-xr

Toolpants, I already see the outside temperature, so I think the OBC is activated already. I'll know for sure after hooking up the wires. Thanks for your assist!

I bought two smoked third brake lights. One for the one that is visible when the tail is down and one for the tail. They're both LED based and they are great. I had to switch the wiring around for the one in the tail. I bought them from porschedad on eBay for $115 or so. He may be selling the clear ones, but if you send him a message he may be able to get some smoked ones too. I can post pics later one tonight.

Hi, I need a little help. I bought and installed a 4 stem (stalk w/the OBC stem) and installed it using Toolpants' DIY. The only thing is that it didn't include is the wiring and/or harness info to get the OBC stem portion connected. Does anyone have the missing information to finish that portion of the installation out? Also, I saw that the OBC portion must be enabled on the computer side. Is that something that can be done at home as well?

It comes up as "unknown part number" in the system.

What is it or where did it come from?

The first part of the under is consistent with a 993 coil spring (set).

I bought used 2005 gt3 coilovers and this is the part number listed on the front springs. I found that this part number is very close to the part number listed in PET for the front gt3 coilover springs. The part number in PET is 996 343 531 95. I'm wondering if there was just some kind of part number typo. The other parts (rear springs and f/r shock part numbers) all have part numbers consistent with the part numbers listed in PET for a 2005 gt3. What do you think?

Does anyone know what this part number, 993 343 531 95, corresponds to?

My 02 is the same way. For the first few weeks I drove it I felt like I was crawling along. I figured it was just because I was more nervous about getting pulled over. Then I passed a stationary radar gun and it said I was going 38 when my speedometer stated I was going 42. In my mind I figured that perhaps the radar wasn't calibrated until I got in this great forum. Now I am certain it is off and fear that perhaps my odometer is off too. I am going to try testing it against GPS and modify the speedo if possible.

I participated in a rally over the past weekend and found my speed and distance traveled to be 7% higher than the "official" rally data for the route. This was confirmed using my Garmin 2610 yesterday.

If that is true, then simply get the odometer (on stock rims and wheel sizes) certified by a licensed company to be off XX%. Provide this to Porsche in a certified letter as well as provide it to the dealer and have it noted in their files and chances are, you will be covered under warranty for the percentage of mileage over the difference.

I still find it hard to believe that running stock wheels and tires sizes show much diffeence between odometer reading and actual miles drivien. I have yet to test a car that shows more than a 1% difference. Again, the incorrect reading of the speedometer is UNRELATED to the calculated input used for the odometer.

I did a comparison of the 225/265 vs. 235/285 setups. There's a difference but not all that much.

You'd probably have to order a new airbag from Sunset Porsche (dealer cost price) or swap with a Boxster S guy. I've seen them on ebay but bidding gets out of control. I bought mine from Suncoast when I upgraded to the three spoke wheel. Good luck.

I found this on Rennlist.

http://www.weissach.net/996-997_RoadTestSummary.html

It may help you in your decision.

How about this?

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/product...oducts_id=21238

Since it's lightweight, your power to weight ration would be helped.

I posted this in another Porsche forum and I hope that someone can help.

************

Has anyone actually signed up with Laurel DE Insurance? I'm going Thunderhill on Nov. 17 for a DE event but I'd like to get DE insurance if possible.

I contacted Laurel DE and received the the following:

"This Policy provides coverage only for PCA DE Events and Club DE Events that operate using the same format as PCA DE Events. This Policy DOES NOT COVER Test & Tune Days, Open Track Days or Racing of any kind. Covered days are per car per designated driver and in accordance with Schedule "A" of the Certificate (i.e. two (2) drivers sharing one (1) car on one (1) calendar day = two (2) insured days)."

I also found that Laurel DE based out of Canada.

Laurel DE Management

7570 Talbot Trail

Blenheim, Ontario

CANADA, N0P 1A0

The acutal insurance company is Pacific Insurance Corporation.

Here is what is at the back end of the policy info they sent me.

THE COVER THAT YOU ARE REQUESTING TO PURCHASE IS BEING ISSUED BY AN INSURANCE COMPANY THAT IS NOT LICENSED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA OR CANADA. THIS COMPANY IS CALLED A “NON-ADMITTED” OR “SURPLUS LINES” INSURER.

THIS INSURANCE COMPANY IS NOT SUBJECT TO THE FINANCIAL SOLVENCY REGULATIONS AND ENFORCEMENTS WHICH APPLY TO STATE, U.S. OR CANADIAN LICENSED COMPANIES.

THIS INSURANCE COMPANY DOES NOT PARTICIPATE IN ANY OF THE INSURANCE GUARANTEE FUNDS CREATED BY STATE, U.S. AND CANADIAN LAW. THEREFORE, THESE FUNDS WILL NOT PAY YOUR CLAIM OR PROTECT YOUR ASSETS IF THE INSURANCE COMPANY BECOMES INSOLVENT AND IS UNABLE TO MAKE PAYMENTS AS PROMISED.

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION YOU SHOULD CONTACT YOUR INSURANCE AGENT/BROKER, “SURPLUS LINE” BROKER, THE STATE DEPARTMENT OF INSURANCE OR PROVINCIAL INSURANCE COMMISSION.

David at Laurel DE said that there are a few options for coverage. They are as follows:

10 DE track days- about $1000

20 DE track days- about $1300 (I'll verify this)

30 DE track days- about $1500 (I'll verify this)

This is for $40K worth of coverage.

I heard that there are some issues with Luarel DE and I'd like to know what those issues are before sending them any money. Any help/input would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 99C2 that had an RMS leak fixed at 38K miles. The clutch needed to be replaced as well so the timing there was perfect. Also had an oil separator leak that was fixed at 36K miles. I drive it pretty hard when I autocross. Currently at 40K miles so far no other worries. B)

Hi, I just bought some 2005 GT3 (used with 10K milies) coilovers for my 1999 C2. I believe the only thing I need to do is change the sway bar mounts. Is there anything else that may need to be changed? Thanks in advance.

My Webpage

The smoked LED light is very hot. I also replaced the one in the spoiler (same part number). I got them from ebay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-996...1QQcmdZViewItem

Check this out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-996...sspagenameZWDVW

I bought two of these (one for the outside 3rd brake light and one for the 3rd brake light in the tail) and I like them a lot.

If this doesn't float your boat, here's a used one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Used-Porsch...1QQcmdZViewItem

Nice ride and :welcome: Where abouts are you located at? See ya around and have fun and be safe.

I'm located in the SF Bay Area.

GGR - PCA region is the San Francisco Bay Area. (Same region I belong to).

I've been to the last two AX's at Alameda and I also did the July GGR AX school. This car is so fun to drive. Also I recently DIY'd the oil (0-40 Mobil) and spark plugs (very limited space to work with). So far so good. I'll be doing a lot more in the future. Thanks again to all the DIY contributors. :thumbup:

Hi Everyone,

I recently picked up a 1999 C2 w/lsd and I attached some pictures. I also joined my local PCA chapter (GGR) and have begun autocrossing it. I am also looking forward to taking on a few DIY projects here and there. This forum is very helpful and I thank all the contributors.

Hi everyone, I’m a newbie 1999 C2 owner here just chiming in on this spark plug topic. I followed the DIY article on changing spark plugs (thanks Loren!), and I ran into a couple issues when installing the plugs. Since the area was so confined, a small torque wrench is a must to do the job right it seems. I didn’t have one available so I had to tighten everything down by feel. 22 ft/lbs is pretty tight compared to the spark plug torque settings on other cars. I guess the alternative would be to remove the exhaust manifold but that seemed like even more work. I also had an issue with the coil connectors. Even though they each clicked as if they locked in properly, they still were loose. I was able to pull them off by wiggling them a little. To get past this, I had to push the connector hood up and out of the way. I was able to verify a proper connection only with the hood out of the way. All in all the spark plug change was very doable, but a lot of time and patience is needed. B)