jcpr996

Thanks for the replies.  I'll get the ones for the rear also.

Been having problems with intermittent brake wear light and found the plug where the speed sensor and brake wear sensor plug in to be cracked and breaking up.  After a search found a topic where Loren found a wiring repair kit for these plugs but for the rear.  Need part numbers for the front part repair kits. 1999 carrera tip coupe.  Thanks in advance and pic.

So it can be done without draining the engine?? I drained the engine when I changed the expansion tank, just had to bleed for a while, wasn't that bad. But if it can be done without draining the engine id rather go that way..

Hello:

Looking for part number of engine temperature sensor for 1999 996. Also does the coolant have to be drained from the engine to change it???

TIA.....

Well final news on this was that the alternator was bad and not getting repaired properly. Got a new alternator all is good. Thank you logray and Loren for all your help!!!

Will check all of these. Thank you so much logray. Im pretty sure the end of this is coming.

Ok I replaced the cable problem is still there. The alternator checked ok. Everything in the battery compartment looks good and tight. Where is the engine to ground cable?? Anything else I can check??

Thanks guys I'll get to work on this and will let you know how it turns out.

Here are 2 pics. One of the cable and a close up of where its corroded at the starter.

That is the problem i've been having. Dealer said the same thing. I have a cable that goes from the alternator to the starter where it is joined to the cable that goes to the jump terminal. It is really corroded at the starter area. Ill take a pic and post it maybe that will help figuiring out how I can order this.

While I was reading the post again saw this picture. This one looks different its joined at the terminal where mine is joined at the starter. Cable 15-24. Will post a picture in a few hours.

Does anyone have the part number for this cable (21/22) I need to change it. For a '99 tip. TIA.

Loren:

Sorry for sounding so stupid... . Just this last question. The pulley that has the bolt that holds the alternator in place the one u have to hammer to loose the bearing. That is the one I need. Im thinking this one is 48 ftlbs from what u wrote above. Am I correct? I did the p0410 repair and replaced 2 idler pulleys, the one mentioned on top and the one right after the tension roller that bolts to the crankcase(think this is the one is 34ftlbs) and the belt while I was doing it. Im getting a weird noise at really high rpms like a roller is rubbing or something. Just want to make sure everything is tightened up correctly. They roll fine when the belt is off. If it makes it any easier to answer my question the rollers I replaced are number 8 and number 3 in this picture. From ur reply im thinking 8 is 34ftlb and 3 is 48ftlb?? Just want to make sure im understanding correctly. Thanks a ton and sorry for not understanding so easily....

Specifically what I need from the polyrib belt change are torques for Number 3 and number 8 rollers. For a tip car.... thanks loren u rock.....

Loren:

Forgot to mention. Are these the same for tiptronic. For some reason parts are listed different for manual or tip. I have a tip..... Thanks........

Does anyone have the torques for the belt idler rollers bolts. Upper and lower.. thanks in advance..

Thanks to everyone for their help with this. Got it done yesterday and check engine is gone. The alternator removal was the worst part that bushing just didn't budge so with a little force and hammering alternator came out. When out hammered the hell out of that bushing and it budged just enough for it to go back in. installed air and electric change over valves and all is good.

thanks b:

Yes Im gonna replace those 2 valves but there is another one after the air-changeover valve. Has no vacuum lines and goes into the exhaust manifold guess ill have to leave that one alone. I know about the coolant hoses already broke the plastic part once got a nice shower of coolant. Ill tackle this and let you know how it turns out. Hope the alternator goes ok gonna start spraying some wd-40 a few days before working in there. Will let you know how it turns out...

thanks b:

Yes Im gonna replace those 2 valves but there is another one after the air-changeover valve. Has no vacuum lines and goes into the exhaust manifold guess ill have to leave that one alone. I know about the coolant hoses already broke the plastic part once got a nice shower of coolant. Ill tackle this and let you know how it turns out. Hope the alternator goes ok gonna start spraying some wd-40 a few days before working in there. Will let you know how it turns out...

Thanks... Ordered those 2 and will replace. Will also replace belt and idlers that are making a nasty sound. How bad was the alternator removal for you? TIA......

Also have any of you guys replaced the check valve after the air changeover valve??

So did anyone replace the motor? Mine clicks but something in there is busted because I can move the mechanism just fine. I seems really hard to get that motor out. I'd like to fix this because the a/c doesn't cool that fast with all fresh air when its really hot outside. TIA..

Hello everyone:

1 - Got these yesterday morning then cleared codes car drove fine all day. Searched here and found out about the secondary injection system. Checked 40 amp fuse and relay and both are fine. Started the car cold last night SAI pump started just fine and no CEL.

2 - This morning started the car SAI pump started ran for about 30 secs. and shut down no CEL. As soon as I drove off the CEL came on.

3 - My question is. Do I now go to the air and electric change over valves? My CEL comes on after the pump shuts down.

Searched and it seems it has happened to a few people. TIA.........

thanks Loren that was it. ICV was going bad. It was actually buzzing. Replaced with a new one and all is good. Thanks a ton!!!!!!!!

Hello everyone:

I have a 99 996 tiptronic. Lately when starting cold the engine doesn't go to 1000 rpm and drop slowly. Now it goes to around 600 runs very rough and slowly goes to 1000 then drops. Checked codes with durametric and no codes. When warm the car runs smooth and idles fine. Warm startups are not a problem. No smoke on cold startups either. Maybe someone has experienced this and solved this or maybe its normal. Any responses are apreciated TIA......

Im sorry, not glue, but the double sided tape that came with the SS door sills is just completely done, looks like water has destroyed it. Unlike the original double sided that was just impossible to get out. Now my question is is there any specific type of double sided tape you recommend or any generic one will do. TIA Loren.......

Hello everyone:

A few years ago I installed the stainless steel door sills. The other day washing the car I noticed they were both unglued as the glue that came with the doors sills has just gone bad. Nothing like the glue the original ones had that was almost impossible to get off. So my question is, what do you guys remcomend I use to glue these back again??

TIA....