myturbo

Trying to replace my front rotors on my 2004 TT.  I can't seem to remove the bracket.  I first took the screw off, but it wouldn't move. I next took off the nut, still couldn't get it off.  I tried prying it off with a screwdriver between the bracket and housing.  Without a lift I can't get a good look.  Is there anything else?  Any tricks?  Thanks

I'm missing one of the small bushings that a screw goes into to secure the climate control unit into the console.  Is this part available? 

Any help with the location of these relays in cabriolet?  Is it also next to the DME?

Thanks. What is the technique to prying the back off? I'm stuck with the clip that seems to be at the yellow arrow.

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The tab Ddavidoff shows is on the front bezel.  I am trying to split it at the yellow arrow below.  I did give it a shot with the credit card on the front bezel.  It didn't come off, but I haven't given up on that one.

I am trying to replace the time adjust selector on my 996's speedo.  Referencing the pic below, I removed the two screws (red lines), clips on the mounting ears (green lines), and released the lower clasps (blue lines).  The front piece peels away at the bottom and the sides, but seems to be stuck at the top section.  What is holding it on there?  Are the yellow circles clips?  I'm reluctant to put too much leverage on the plastic piece

On 2/20/2017 at 5:48 PM, jporter said:

I just looked at the operation again and there is also a delay in the movement up after the motor starts.  When you push the button to move the spoiler up, there is a short delay of about 2 seconds when the motor is running and the spoiler starts to move up.  This is very similar to the delay for the motor to stop when the spoiler is going down.  It seems like there is a gap formed between the hydraulic system and the mechanical part of the spoiler when the spoiler is retracted.  This gap causes the delay when the spoiler is raised as the gap between the hydraulic system and the mechanical part of the spoiler must first be closed.  If I release the down button before the spoiler if fully retracted, there is no delay when you press the button to raise the spoiler.  The spoiler does appear to be fully raised when it is at the top.  Is the delay before the spoiler raises and after the spoiler fully retracts normal?

With regard to the motor running after the spoiler is up or down, I noticed that on the bench when I was bleeding. I noticed that I had to run the pump much longer, before it it stopped during bleeding, than I did when the rams were connected and ran their full motion. I haven't taken the pump apart, nor am I experienced with the turbo spoilers, but here is my guess.  I think there is a lot more displacement in the pump that is required in the rams.  I think this is so that there is some allowed room to pump beyond what is required. Let me try to explain with an example using arbitrary numbers.  If the total travel of the pump is 10", and full ram motion requires only 6".  This means that there is 2" at either end that is not normally used for full transit of the rams.  However, if the ram micro switch does not turn off the pump at the required 6" excursion, it may take up some of that 2" cushion to make the additional displacement.  If one direction only needs 6", while the other direction needs 6.2", you will eventually chew up the 2" cushion.  Any thoughts on this?

I know the rams are not rebuildable, but is there a solution for the pump assembly?

I've got a spoiler that otherwise operates as it should, but throws a failure light to the dash.  I've moved, stopped and measured the height of the spoiler at each end at several positions in transit with no issues.  Iv'e bled the system.  There are no visible leaks.

The only thing left are the micro switches.  I assume this is the only signal to the DME (that is, assuming the current to the motor is not monitored).  Having understood the system as I described it, am I correct to assume the micro switches are the only other thing left? 

Here is how I expect the microswitches work.  The lower one closes a circuit when the spoiler is all the way down causing the motor to turn off.  The upper one opens the circuit indicating that the ram is all the way deployed and shuts off the motor.  Can I pull out the microswitches from their housing and operate them manually while someone operates the switch in the cockpit?  Any other suggestions?

Not sure what else might be holding the Y-tube in. 

• Removed the 2 bolts
• Removed the 2 hoses from the turbos
• Removed the small L-shaped hose to the MAF's nipple
• Removed the hose under the left turbo pipe
• Loosened the rear most hose clamp. Did not loosen the front one on the coupler hose

Do I need to loosen both clamps that feed forward?  Is there anything else holding the Y-tube in place?

d  

When I went to pull the fuse panel in order to apply power to the studs, I saw this little red slider with a hood icon on it.  I pulled it out and simply attached 12v to it and popped my hood.  Thank you clever Porsche engineers.

My battery is totally dead.  How do I open the hood to change the battery? 

I recently changed my oil in my 996 tt. I drained both the engine and the reservoir (not the turbos) after warming up the engine.  I bought two 5qt bottles of Mobil 1, poured one quart into a one quart container and put the rest in the car.  I warmed up the car and checked the oil level, and the indicator is solid.  Any thoughts on whether this is only a half quart high, or could this be more?  I can live with the half a quart, but I don't know how this could be much more than that? 

I broke the locking portion of a similar connector.  Is this part available at Porsche or other electronic supply houses?

It works fine when using the switch and deploys fine when at speed.  the failure gets thrown when I decrease my speed when it tries to retract.  I usually retract it by using the switch, which operates it up or down manually just fine.  The light in the instrument cluster stays on, but the spoiler is retracted manually.

By ram, do you mean the two actuators that support the spoiler when deployed and retracted?

I like the cast iron ones, but seems to be limited to the height of the casting. I really liked the one JFP shows, but I thought I'd take a run at it myself.  I bought 2 rectangular tubes 2x3 for about $90.  I bought them long enough so I could use them on my BMW 535 as well.  The pic below is after painting, but since this picture I bought custom pucks to fit into the holed in the chassis and now it's real solid.

my 04 tt gets a spoiler fail light that goes on when it is supposed to retract after slowing down.  I can retract it with the switch though.  The dash light stays on.  Any thoughts about where to start looking?

Thanks all.  Good point JFP.

I took the screen out of the brake reservoir in my 2004 tt, but I can't figure out a way to get my turkey baster down far enough to remove the remaining fluid.  How do I access the remainder of the fluid?

I swapped my nav head with an aftermarket in my 2004 996, but I never took the Nav CD out.  My friend needs one.  Is there a way of getting the CD out from a disconnected unit?

Anyone know where the fittings that fit into the whole can be found?  Or were they manufactured?

Wow! this would be perfect.  I like the way that one point is tied to another.  Is there a lead to who sells this?

I'm trying to get some suggestions on jacking up the car so I can support it on the four jack points.  I've seen techniques for the straight 996, but the mounting of the TT engine is different, so I don't think that is a good method for my car.  Currently, I jack the car up and rest it on 4 cinder blocks under the tires, then jack at the suspension points to stick the jacks under the jack points, and then remove the cinder blocks.  Any thoughts?

Durametric offers a 20% discount on 2 or more units of the same model, ordered together and shipped to a single location. The Pro unit I want to get is $735, which makes it $588 with the 20% discount.  I don't know about taxes or shipping yet, but we can figure that out when I know how many are interested.  PM me if you're interested.  I'm located in 07054, so you can figure shipping from here (or pick-up).  Here is the link:

http://www.durametric.com/buyus.aspx

On your recommendation item 1, you mention check "whether", but I don't understand whether what is before or after the TWC.  Do I check to see if the O2 sensor is before or after the TWC?  And the second question is, is the small lift test a test with reference to valve lift?  and how is that tested?