Gator911

My belt tensioner seems to be toast. It isnt providing the necessary tension on the belt...

When I replace the tensioner, What is the part # that I actually need. Im assuming that the roller and the arm are ok?

Do i replace the hydraulic portion of it or is it all one piece?

thanks!

My trunk release lever is EXTREMELY hard to pull. I feel Im going to break something and it has a decent amount of slop.

Any ideas? Its a difficult topic to search. Id like to fix it before I really break something.

Nope, I ju8st bought the car last month. It did not have the problem until after the wheel was off though. But I double checked and the wiring looks correct. RRRR..... :)

I just replaced my 4spoke with a 3spoke and I have the same problem...

Did you find a solution? The wiring seems correct and it looks like it could only even go on one way. This is WEIRD!

Great stuff! I will be doing this next weekend I think

I am going to bump this up since Im sure someone int he past couple of years has more experience. I searched and it led me to this...

Im having the same issue and want to DIY today but would like a preface...

-Keith

I figured it out...Pretty easy but I panicked!

I just took out my parking brake and i didnt notice these 2 small pieces and untill they fell...

Does anyone have a schematic or can tell me where these pieces go? They are a circular and a cylinder type piece. The only pieces other than the 2 nuts...They go on the rod from the brake lever somehow i think...

-Keith

The remote stops working after 4 or 5 days of inactivity, open the door with the key, push the key in the ignition switch and turn to the contact position while pushing on the opening button of the remote. If the system refuge to work, replace the remote. This is a PIWIS job. There is a fuse in the alarm control box under the driver seat but troubles with the fuse are rather infrequent.

It is not the problem. It acts as if the key forgot who the car was...

I did an extensive search and it seems to be a fairly common problem...I am now looking for alternatives to 200-300 for a new key!

I did not find anything about a switch though

Is there a fuse for the keyless system? The key fob still lights up so Its not the battery. Its not a long red light or anything either...

What can I do? Resetting does nothing...

-Keith

I know that the speedometer reads higher on the 02, but with that aside, will it work?

Also, will the DME override the cluster to display the correct mileage??

please help!

I have to pull the key out and then i put it right back in...

For real eek.gif

I thought if you did that you still have power to the radio and gauges.

If I turn off the car and leave the keys in the ignition the radio and gauges stay on.

If I remove the key and don't lock it the gauges stay on

I did open and close the door

I always leave the key in the ignition while in the garage...Maybe i should stop

I have a base 2001. I have the cupholder in the top of the horsehoe -(probably OEM location)

I have not found it very useful. Anyone Else?

I'd like to take it out and have more useful storage space. I've seen, in pictures, some of the cars - mostly carerras? - that there is a deep pocket-like tray in one of the four (?) slots in and under the horseshoe.

Is there an easy way to remove the cupholder and install one of the trays? Any idea on part number? Other ideas?

Wanna trade me?? haha

Hi Everyone,

I recently picked up a 1999 C2 w/lsd and I attached some pictures. I also joined my local PCA chapter (GGR) and have begun autocrossing it. I am also looking forward to taking on a few DIY projects here and there. This forum is very helpful and I thank all the contributors.

Sweet car! I wish i had LSD and clear headlights!

-Keith

From memory, I remember no more than 1/2 cup of liquid. I did not see much, if any, fuel from the lines. Mostly from the filter body. I just got a medium size wide/flat tupperware type bottom under the filter, and simply put the filter there after removing.

Can't remember what I did with the container afterwards though... Hope I cleaned it before sneaking it back to the kitchen withouth my wife seeing me.....

Oh its not a temendous amount, less then a Qt....It just burns, and doesnt fall in one place. That is why i suggest a larger container to cover a bigger area...

Look at it this way; it's enough fuel to fill that filter, and a tad extra from the lines...

thanks gator911,

which clip are you referring to on the fuel filter? is there one holding it up in place, that you have to remove after you disconnect the rapid-action couplings (step 3 in the DIY)?

also, one dumb question - how much fuel ends up coming out when you disconnect? Is there a check valve in the line to prevent you from draining your whole tank on yourself, while you have it disconnected?

thanks again

capt601

The clip, actually a worm gear clamp, holds the fuel filter in place...There are also the 2 disconnects, one on each side of the filter, for the fuel lines.

A good amount of fuel will come out. Definitely have some rags and/or a drain bucket. It's always fun when fuel runs down your arm and burns your little armpit hairs!

The tank will not drain itself, the only fuel that comes out is the fuel that is in the line...

-Keith

thanks for the reply. I read your write-up over at rennlist and I was amazed at everything you did. The polyrib belt seems to be pretty easy, but the fuel filter appears to be a little tricky. Is it a pain removing the panels underneath to get access to it? and once there is it as easy as you describe to get access to the filter? the rest of the 60K check seems to be just visual checks of the other items?

thanks again!

The underbody panels are easy to get off...There are just a bunch of (i think 10mm) bolts holding it up. The only thing you want to watch for is that you can still get the panel off and access to the bolts in the area that you use to put you jack stands...

The fuel filter isn't THAT bad if you dont reuse the old clip. I was cussing the old clip and just opted for tie-straps. To reach the filter can be difficult. It kind of depends on how big your arm is...My arm was starting to scrape just as i reached the filter. If if you cant reach it with your arm, you can push or pull it with a long screw driver poking up between the lines...

Dont be affraid! It might take you a little time but it will save you money and you will learn! REMEMBER to keep all your receipts. No one will take you word for it that it was done without documentation!

-keith

Thorsten,

It is my understanding that the key head will work just fine for an early model, one button car. You will simply have a key button that does nothing.

This is under the assumption that you are referring to taking the electronics out of your original key head and inserting them into the design key.

Hi Kim,

that's what I was planning to do. I'm just not sure if the one button of my key would be in the correct position for it to work correctly with on of the two button surfaces of the design key. Would be a little stupid though if I had to hit the hood button to open the doors.

Thorsten

It works and i have done it with my 1-button key...

The design key works as well as the carrera GT key...

-Keith

I am trying to plan ahead for my upcoming 60000 mile maint. and it looks like quite a few of the things you can do yourself - ie. replace polyrib belt, spark plugs, etc..

has anyone ever done this one (60000 mile check) themselves? and if not what was the cost at a shop?

If I do these myself, how hard will the above items be, and what other items need to be looked at? I have printed out the list under the maint checklists already.

thanks.

capt601

I just did my 60k miles service while also replacing my RMS, IMS, and clutch...

The service is very easy. A lot of it is visual...The most tedious part will be the sparkplugs but your car needs some TLC too!!(check my thread on rennlist)

The poly-rib belt is easy!

-Keith

Suncoast advertises their clutch kit for $430 on the web...OEM parts at a good price

Where is the best place to get Porsche special tools, especially the ones for the RMS...

I am going to do the seal myself and think i am going to make the investment to do it right

thanks

-Keith

Is that for a PDF on a CD or for a paper copy ? I'm looking for a PDF too ... the paper copy in the car and the PDF on the laptop "just in case"....

Porsche didn't start making PDF's of the manuals until late 2002 or 2003.

Maybe I can find time to scan mine this weekend and add it to the manuals here.

Thanks Loren, always a help...

I dont expect you to spend the time to scan all those pages but it is nice having one in the car, and on on the PC....or one even at all!! :P

-Keith

PS In the mean time can someone answer my 2 needs? I tried to search...

When i got my car, it came with an 02+ owners manual...

I am planning to buy the right manual but i am without that and the booklet in the fuse box...

I would like to look over the manual in the mean time to figure out which bulbs go in the tail lights and what that switch is on the fuse box cover

:help:

Keith

I just did the DIY mod to extend my keyless entry range, and while i had the visors off i removed the labels. Well i grounded the power in the vanity mirror and blew the fuse...

Now when i try to lock the car with the remote, it honks twice and doesnt lock...

Can someone help me out here? I need to lock my car!!(with the remote :D )

TIA

-Keith

EDIT: Well i think that it does...I dont have the booklet showing the fuse box diagrams but i just found one on the this forum, and the fuse for central locking and alarm is the same for interior lights. Can someone confirm that replacing the fuse will give me full fuctionality?

I had this problem identified during my PPI, and the mechanic said that their is a spring plate or something of that nature that has just weakened....I think he mentioned it was around an $80 part and a simple fix...

The previous owner put a rigged up spaced between the horn to keep it pushed out for now untill he could fix it...Well he never did so now its my job to do that

-Keith