Andy Aloia

Results are in. Having to buy a rebuilt transmission.

Apparently something went awry on a 2 hours highway cruise home that made itself known when I drove the car again. Unknown cause. I am not hard on the clutch at all. I'd prefer to keep my cars for a long time. Sad day.

Stock as stock could be. I have a hankering its the transaxel or differential. :( Headed to my indy tomorrow. Will update with the results when I find out.

Update: I recorded another video with better sound. I removed the sound deadening material over the engine. This sound is non-existent while in neutral. Should I go visit a transmission shop or is it something other?

Hello All,

I have a 2004 Boxster S. I noticed a strange noise while accelerating. It is only while the accelerator is pressed. It sounds like a hollow noise. I did a test by removing the oil cap while the car is running. It came off easy, was not hard to take off. I don't thinks its the oil/air separator as some posts suggest a noise when it fails. The car seems to idle smoothly. The car drives, runs, and shifts smooth except for this noise when accelerating. I hooked up my Durametric. Cleared the codes. Drove around for 10 minutes. Turned the car off. Locked it/unlocked. Then drove another 10 minutes. No codes were ever produced.

I am going away on vacation 2 weeks from now and would really like to take the car with me. Please let me know what you think. I'm a newb to the mid-engine Boxster.

I know its a vertical video, but we're here for audio.

Thank you for your thoughts,
Andy

Hello All,

I know I am reviving an old thread, but it always helps to hear a solution to the problem.

On a recent escapade to fix the sun roof switch I took off the ceiling control cluster. Inside there was looped wiring tied in to a power and ground connection that ran towards the drivers side. Very odd indeed. I removed the interior windshield column and lo and behold there was my problem. A previous owner installed a radar or laser detector in the left corner of the dash. It was removed at some point and the wires were only snipped and left in place. Over time the wire shielding degraded due to heat and other elements and allowed the power and ground connections to intermittently short out.

I removed all of the wiring, taped up the wiring tie-ins...BAM Problem solved!

If it happens again slightly turn the ignition switch, they can fail intermittently and cause many odd issues.

Thanks for the input!

As an update, my previous wire patch-up did not solve the problem. The Windows still fail intermittently. Next time that happens I will try wiggling/slightly turning the key and see if that helps. 

I got my Durametric in today. There were only error codes in the Alarm system. Code 49,10,23,and 33. However, being that the codes may have arisen at anytime in the past, I cleared them. I turned the car on let sit for 5 minutes, turned off. Locked the door, then unlocked and checked for any new codes. No codes popped up.  

I will check over the next few days for any new error codes. As Wvicary mentioned, the problem may simply be the ignition switch.

I lifted the driver seat, and there was a decent amount of dust and debris. 

Also, it seemed like there was some electrical tape on the wires running to the drivers seat.

Removed the tape to see if there was any major damage or what was the cause of the splice.

Upon further inspection of the smaller wires. It seems like there has been some damage due to rubbing or catching. There was only two damaged wires. Perhaps if they were to ground out, it would prevent the windows from functioning. It is unknown at this point. It is important to note that the tape wrapping did not cover the exposed section of wire.

Additional note, it seems like there was also some grounding wires that got a treatment as well. It has a Porsche tag on the new grounding wire on the right side of the image.

My guess is that someone forcibly put the seat forward/back and then it cut the wires. This prompted the fix.

I have sprayed contact cleaner on the connector and on the M535 unit. I am waiting an extra 5 minutes before vacuuming and putting it all back together. The M535 unit and harnesses looked acceptable. I did not see any evidence of wire exposure.

If it happens again, maybe worthwhile to disconnect the battery, unplug and clean the connector contacts of the alarm module with Deoxit (under the passenger seat) and re-plug the connectors.

Ha! I took the car out for a brief drive yesterday to a movie theater and back. Sure enough, on way to the theater the windows did not roll down. On the way back they worked just fine. It very well may be a connection/contact issue. I will keep you guys updated once I have cleaned the contacts and connections.

I also ordered a Durametric to further check everything out and clear any codes that may exist in the ECU/ALARM. 

Well I took the car for about a 20 minute drive last night, and of course not thinking I went through a drive through to grab a drink for my friend and I to split. Sure enough, the window rolled down! I was awestruck when I realized what had happened. The Driver, Passenger, and Overhead windows all began working! I parked the car and left it overnight (about 12 hrs.) I checked it again 5 minutes ago and all of the windows are working.

I have no idea what happened and it is super annoying to spend so much time diagnosing to only have it start working randomly. I have not ordered the Durametric yet as I was going to try replacing the fuses just in-case those were the problem.

The only thing I think that it could have been was something to do with the alarm module. I'll be checking it regularly for the next week, and if it holds I will call it "fixed magically". If it happens again, I'll be sure to get a video.

To everyone that commented, thank you so much for your help. Honestly, I am appalled at the amount of support and dedication you guys have for these cars. I only hope that I can be helpful one day and give back. 

I called several local shops, unfortunately and expected, nobody had equipment to connect to a Porsche. Looks like I'll be ordering a Durametric. I'm sure it will pay for itself over the course of my ownership of the vehicle.

I have not messed with the instrument cluster area. I'll be removing the switches tonight to try and verify that the ground connection is good.

 

 

Can't say this is your problem, but I had the same exact issue. I could even open/close the cabrio top and the windows would open and close, but the window switches would not function.

 

Went for a State Inspection, went home and everything was working properly. Put the car in the garage and went into the house for about an hour. Came out to the car to run an errand and the window switches would not function at all.

 

No fuse issues. Nothing I did, would fix it.

 

Took the car to my Indie and after some diagnosing, he found that the Immobilizer module had shorted out. Replaced the module and everything was good once all the keys were reprogrammed. Hope this isn't your issue as this isn't a cheap fix. 

 

Boy, I really hope it is not that bad. :( I should get my ODB2 scanner in today, I'll see if there are any codes.

 

 

A generic OBDII scanner will not be able to retrieve anything related to the immobilizer/alarm though. You need Durametric at a minimum.

 

Ah, I'll ask my local guy that specializes in foreign cars if he has one. If not, I'll probably look into purchasing one. Unfortunately the closest Porsche dealer is about an hour away from me.

Can't say this is your problem, but I had the same exact issue. I could even open/close the cabrio top and the windows would open and close, but the window switches would not function.

 

Went for a State Inspection, went home and everything was working properly. Put the car in the garage and went into the house for about an hour. Came out to the car to run an errand and the window switches would not function at all.

 

No fuse issues. Nothing I did, would fix it.

 

Took the car to my Indie and after some diagnosing, he found that the Immobilizer module had shorted out. Replaced the module and everything was good once all the keys were reprogrammed. Hope this isn't your issue as this isn't a cheap fix. 

Boy, I really hope it is not that bad. :( I should get my ODB2 scanner in today, I'll see if there are any codes.

Just doing some wondering, could this possibly be related to a battery issue?

I measure 12.5v across the poles with the battery completely disconnected from the car. With the car on and running idle it was around 13.9-14.2v That seems normal enough, but this is my first Porsche.

Would the alarm system prevent the windows from functioning properly via the console buttons?

My key fob button does not work, so the only way I can activate the alarm is via turning the key in the door to the right twice. It gives 1 honk, however the doors stay locked. (I assume that is activation verification?)

Just trying to think out of the box.

Thanks for the help again guys, you have been awesome.

Always check fuses with an ohm meter - it can and will save you a lot of time looking elsewhere.

Checked all fuses discussed. All were under 2 ohms. Seem to be in working order...

To add I have left the battery disconnected for about 30 minutes now. I had read elsewhere that some 996 owners disconnect both terminals on the battery and then short the battery lead wires with a jumper cable. Is this a valid thing to try?

I'm kinda at a loss for things to try!

Always check fuses with an ohm meter - it can and will save you a lot of time looking elsewhere.

Going to do that now! Almost overlooked this post as I replied to Ahsai.

Strange indeed. The control module should be reset when you disconnect the car battery. Can you use the key to roll the window half way down, then try to use the center console switches to operate the windows?

 

I wonder if it has anything to do with the window reset procedures normally performed after battery re-connection. Obviously your windows get power and SOME inputs from the control module work. Just not the inputs from the switches.

Exactly why it is so strange to me. First time I have ever seen this. 

I have tried:

I turned key to unlock position put windows all the way down. Disconnect battery negative, wait 30s, reconnect battery, get in car, close door, key in ignition to on position, press window button, no result.

I repeated the steps attempting the following ways.

Put windows at halfway from up position. (turn key to unlock)

Put windows at half from down position, (turn key to lock, then unlocked car before disconnect)

Put windows at Up position

Put windows at Down position.

All results in no response from any button.

How about fuse B6?

B6 is in working order.

I also checked B1 (convertible top unit control) even though I am a non-convertible. All of the fuses seem to be in working order.

Is there anyway to reset the window control module? 

How about fuse D1?

Fuse seems to be in good working order on visual inspection.

I also checked B5, and it also seems in good order.

Hello all,

I have spent the length of today trying to find an answer on Google and by extension this website. Most of the articles I have come across reference similar, but not the same problem. (Windows not ducking)

I own a 1999 996, I recently replaced the starter in my vehicle which required removing the battery. Upon re-connecting the battery none of the power windows work via the rocker switches in the center console or overhead console (Driver, Passenger, Overhead). However, whenever I open the doors, the windows still duck properly. Additionally, I can put my key into the door and hold it to the left/right and the windows will go up or down depending on direction. Prior to disconnecting the battery everything operated as intended.

I checked fuse C3, it is in working order.

I can hold down the window up or down buttons, but nothing happens. 

I have disconnected the battery again thinking that maybe there was something I missed. Has no affect on windows.

Does anyone have any experience with this issue? I am at a complete loss.

Thanks everyone.

 

Hello,

Recently purchased a 1999 911 and had to replace the starter, unfortunately, no radio code supplied :(

 

I have a CDR-210

PR-VERS: R3297

SERIAL N: W5024002

 

Thanks for the help

 

Try 4857

 

Tried 4857, no dice.

Also tried 4859, 4861, 4855, 4853. Still No luck.

I verified that I have the correct serial.

Any ideas?

Thanks for the help!

EDIT: I read on another forum that you have to hit the tuning button on the CDR210 in order to "Input" the code. It is not automatic. As soon as I entered the 4857 and hit the tuner. Voila! It works!

Thanks again!

Hello,

Recently purchased a 1999 911 and had to replace the starter, unfortunately, no radio code supplied :(

I have a CDR-210

PR-VERS: R3297

SERIAL N: W5024002

Thanks for the help