toddwess

What are you replacing it with? Are you replacing any other sound components?

Jon

I've moved the AC controls down to the very bottom (just above the batwing) and am putting a Parrot Rhythum-n-Blues CD Player with built in Bluetooth Phone options.

In the upper slots, they are both vacant, and I am putting a 7" VGA touch screen monitor in the hole, and an aOpen Mini Windows PC behind it with DVD Player. The PC will have GPS Navigation, DVD Player, CD Player, MP3 Player, iPod connectivity, and will be have a perminant connection to the OBDII port beneith the drivers dash for diagnosis on the fly.

Here's how it looks so far. The rest of the components are coming in this weekend.

I'm replacing the CDR-220 in my 2000 Boxster, and have found all the info about what wire goes where, but Crutchfield says that installing an aftermarket radio into the 2000 Boxster requires the PAC OEM-2 Universal Factory Sound System Interface.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-wTdBfJ9GZNd/c...w.asp?i=127OEM2

I used this exact device when I replaced the head unit in my 2001 Mercedes SLK. Some of the posts I've been reading here explain how they installed their new radio, but did not use the PAC OEM-2 device.

Does one really need this device? If I don't use it, will the radio still work?

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Todd

I looked in the parts forum and I did a search. I can't seem to find the part number.

I need this part for a 2000 Boxster 2.7L with Black interior. NOT SILVER LIKE SHOWN

I know I can cut the one I have, but I want to save that one in case I need to move the units back up.

Thanks for any help.

Todd

Hey, thanks for the info. I've got a retailer offering the exact same MAF I have for $276. I'm going to go ahead and purchase it now based on your information. Thanks for taking the time to read my posts, and see the same situation and share your experiences. THAT, my friend, is what makes this forum an invaluable tool to owning these wonderful cars.

More info to be posted soon when the new MAF arrives.

Todd

Have you ever consider using EVO's MAF?

http://www.evoms.com/p%20boxster%20induction%20tuning.htm

Well, I am now! Quite a product. Do you have one? How hard is the install?

No need to remove it.

How did you do that?????

hi toddwess, i too have a 2000 boxster s. i also had the same problem with my MAF. i did everything that you did with my old MAF, i cleaned it, disconnect the battery and CEL still came up after about 35 miles of driving. i took it to auto zone had them read the code for me and i think the code is P0202 (i think) which is either a bad MAF or a bad connection to the MAF. so i search around and found this guy on ebay selling the MAF for an unbeliveable price of $285 shipping included. i email him and paid him through paypal and got the MAF in 4 days from UPS. after switching it out, my CEL went off by itself after 5 starts and it's been over two weeks and the CEL is still off.

here is the link. i don't know if he still has anymore left but it doesn't hurt to send him an email and ask.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

good luck.

Okay, I took my MAF Sensor out and cleaned it with CAC Quick Drying Electronic Cleaner. It seemed to be cleaner, but what do I know.

I put it back in, and the CEL did not go off.

So, then I disconneced the battery for 5 minutes and then reconnected.

The CEL light is off.

Here is what I'm wondering . . . if your battery gets disconnected, and you had a pending condition that caused your CEL to illuminate, doesn't it make sense that the computer will wait until a certain number of miles/time goes by before it illuminates it again? I mean, it has to take historical data in order to get a definite reading, so if we disconnect the battery isn't really the solution, is it?

I guess if the CEL comes back on in like 30 miles or so, I can assume the cleaning didn't work.

I don't get it . . . the only thing that will keep this device (the MAF) from operating properly shoudl be dirt. If it is cleaned, that should remedy the situation, right?

Troubled,

Todd

Hey, thanks for the info. I've got a retailer offering the exact same MAF I have for $276. I'm going to go ahead and purchase it now based on your information. Thanks for taking the time to read my posts, and see the same situation and share your experiences. THAT, my friend, is what makes this forum an invaluable tool to owning these wonderful cars.

More info to be posted soon when the new MAF arrives.

Todd

I did some searches, but can't find really good info.

I want to be able to remove the clamshell to get some really good access to the engine compartment for cleaning.

Is there a quick/easy way to remove it briefly?

Thanks,

Todd

Hi All,

I am just developing a remote control for the soft top of my boxter.

Although this wont completely lock the top to the seals, its useful if it start to gently spit and you are in a shop or something, just help protect the leather for a period.

This is an additon to a circuit I have designed to attach to the rear of the cabro switch to enable one push operation.

Just wondering if any one can thing of any thing imaginative to add on top of this design??

Cheers

Russ

So this would only be for closing the top to the stop point, right? Interesting . . .

It would be nice if it also then closed the windows.

Todd

Sounds good - thanks.

So I just spray the stuff in there, and use the cloth you mentioned (and keep it away from the paint I understand too)

I'll let y'all'ins now the results.

Todd

I would check and see if your throttle butterfly is gummed up with carbon. Do a search here and you will see that many idle problems are related to carbon buildup and the throttle butterfly. Cleaning is also covered...

Thanks, I see there are several posts.

So, the 2000 with the e-accelerator throttle body can be cleaned without actually removing it from the engine? Did I understand that correctly from the posts?

Also, should the engine be running when I spray the carb spray/cleaner into the throttle body?

Thanks,

Todd

As I mentioned in some past posts, I cleaned my MAF in my 2000 Boxster this weekend because the Porsche dealer said the codes indicated a low voltage max limit had been reached.

The CEL is now off, but I've been getting some idle loping. When I come to a stop light, the idle drops to around 300 and then just before it stalls, it catches itself and goes back up. It does this about once every 3 to 5 seconds.

I'm not getting any other codes from the ODB, so where should I look first to remedy this issue?

Thanks,

Todd

The top on ebay is made by GAHH and we have been talking about it here. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4503 You can find it for less money.

I have a 1997 with the 210 radio. I bought a Traffic Pro but have not put it in yet.

Where does someone go to get the US CD's for the Traffic Pro models? I'm looking at getting the 7820 or similar, but it would be useless without the CD's.

Thanks,

Todd

what makes you think you need to replace the MAF? the CEL? that could be a thousand things (gas cap, oil cap, other minor things, etc.)

have you had the codes read out? if not, go to an AutoZone and have them read the codes for free. the dealer will charge you $100+ for this.

come back and post the codes here.

as the saying goes, if it ain't broke...

also, i believe the 'historical data' you're referring to will happen over a number of milliseconds, not days or weeks between events. i might be wrong, but i don't think so. however, even if you disconnect the battery, the codes will remain present in memory until they are deleted (by OBDII scanner, PST2, or whatever new system porsche uses now.)

you can find MAFs all over the web. Sunset Imports (www.sunsetimports.com) is my favorite, Autohaus AZ (www.autohausaz.com), Suncoast Porsche in FL (sorry, don't know the URL) and you already know about Pelican Parts. i'm sure there are many other places. i've found that Sunset Imports (cost+15%) and Autohaus AZ generally have the best prices.

I took the car to my Porsche Dealer, and he showed me the codes (I didn't write them down) and explained how the MAF needed to be replaced. Showed me a screen where some voltage was like -4.5 or something that he said was the max lower limit.

I cleaned it, replaced it, and disconnected the negative terminal for 5 minutes and then reconnected. The CEL has not come back on, but I've only driven it about 20 miles.

I checked all of the retailers you mentioned, but none of them carried the 124 00 MAF I'm looking for. Any other MAF will require a computer reprogramming (or some such nonsence).

Thanks,

Todd

Okay, I was taking the trash out, and as I was coming back up the driveway, I just happened to look at the rear wheels of my 2000 Boxster.

Is it weird that the rear wheels seem to be a bit pitched closer to the vehicle at the top?

I don't know how to word this . . . looking at the wheels from the rear, the tops of the wheels seem to be closer to the car than the bottom of the wheels. This image is a bit exagerated, but imagine if the difference from the top and bottom was only about 1/2 inch.

Thoughts,

Todd

My alarm is super-sensitive. Is there a way to lock the car and not arm the alarm? It goes off in the middle of the night, and is really a pill.

Thanks,

Todd

Okay, I took my MAF Sensor out and cleaned it with CAC Quick Drying Electronic Cleaner. It seemed to be cleaner, but what do I know.

I put it back in, and the CEL did not go off.

So, then I disconneced the battery for 5 minutes and then reconnected.

The CEL light is off.

Here is what I'm wondering . . . if your battery gets disconnected, and you had a pending condition that caused your CEL to illuminate, doesn't it make sense that the computer will wait until a certain number of miles/time goes by before it illuminates it again? I mean, it has to take historical data in order to get a definite reading, so if we disconnect the battery isn't really the solution, is it?

I guess if the CEL comes back on in like 30 miles or so, I can assume the cleaning didn't work.

I don't get it . . . the only thing that will keep this device (the MAF) from operating properly shoudl be dirt. If it is cleaned, that should remedy the situation, right?

Troubled,

Todd

and/or compressed air. It helps if you loosen the A?C condensers so you can clean the front of the radiators too. See my 3rd radiator DIY for pics...

All done. I can't beleive how easy it was to remove the front bumper. I got the bumper off, removed the front grills and had them painted and back in the bumper inside of an hour.

Thanks,

Todd

I would also clean the radiators and the AC condensors while the bumper cover off.... but that's me.

That is an excellent idea! I'm taking my bumper off this weekend, and would like to clean these two things as well.

What is the best way to clean these? Garden hose from behind??

Thanks,

Todd

986Jim this is some great info!!! THanks so much for your efforts to put it up here.

Yep, it's the one in blue. I am going to go ahead and get it fixed this week, if I can scrounge up the money.

Thanks again!

Todd

I have a 2000 Boxster.

I've read all the posts on the MAF replacement.

Mine is the 996 606 124 00

I understand the is the first of three MAF's made for the new 2000 Boxster.

My problem is . . . I CANT FIND IT AT ANY STORE ONLINE!!

I don't want to have to have the car re-programeed. My dealer wants $650 to replace the MAF.

HELP!!!

Thanks :)

Okay, when I did a google search for 996 606 124 00 I found ONE retailer.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._FULint_pg2.htm

Am I under the correct understanding that I can replace a 996 606 124 00 with another 996 606 124 00 and not need any visit to the Porsche dealer to have the DME reprogrammed.

Thanks,

Todd

I have a 2000 Boxster.

I've read all the posts on the MAF replacement.

Mine is the 996 606 124 00

I understand the is the first of three MAF's made for the new 2000 Boxster.

My problem is . . . I CANT FIND IT AT ANY STORE ONLINE!!

I don't want to have to have the car re-programeed. My dealer wants $650 to replace the MAF.

HELP!!!

Thanks :)

My 2000 Boxster did not come with cup holders.

In my cetner section, I have first the electronic AC Controls, and below that is the CDR-220. Then on the lower panel, (which is angled and would not be suitable for cup holders) I have the CD Storage bin, and then an open bin.

My question . . . could I move the AC Controls to the lower bin (all the way at the bottom) to accomodate the cup holder module shown on this link?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSCHE-996...050153651QQrdZ1

Has anyone done it? Pics? Is it super-hard? Or is there a better solution?

THanks,

Todd

Any tips on how to get a CD out of the CDR-220? It won't eject.

Thanks,

Todd

I have a MY 00 as well. This thread has gotten me thinking what the correct behavior is when the key is turned off and removed. In mine, when the key is turned off and removed, the A/C panel and all the caution lights immediately turn off. The digital speedo and computer remain on for a while. If the radio is on when I turn the key off it stays on for a while but can be turned off with the on/off button.

Is this normal?

Jon

Im curious about this also. Additionally, when I get back in my car, and open the door, the radio comes back on.

Thanks,

Todd

Two things . . .

1. My Porsche has recommended a brake flush.

2. It is time to change the oil in my 2000 Boxster.

Are these things I can do myself? I realize the oil change needs some wheel ramps, but can I do a brake flush?

Thanks,

Todd