Mr.Flip

I tried to use a thin metal coil to unplug mine as well to no avail, what ended up helping me was getting my air compressor and with a small rubber hose attached to the end of it, put it into the drain tube a few inches, and shoot it a couple of times. It blew out alot of dirt and debris which was the reason why mine was clogged.


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Okay, thanks Loren! I'll definitely get another scanner to check it and make sure I got the right airbag.


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Hey guys, I've been chasing this airbag light for a while now. Replaced seat belt buckle with a new one, replaced passenger door airbag with one from ebay. Below are the codes from a snap-on scanner, granted its not a PIWIS tester but it gave me something. Had a more advanced scanner saying passenger door airbag which is why I went that direction. Any help is much appreciated thank you!

If it's randomly doing that without you touching the dial then most likely it is the resistor that's causing it. It's probably on its way out and about to quit completely


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Loren is right, it's best to find out what codes are being put out prior to buying random parts trying to fix it. I had a similar situation with my old '01 S and it turned out to be the passenger door handle sensor, the one that engages the window to go down. But, like I said, best to find out what the codes are prior.


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Okay, AutohausAZ hasn't been known to have any faulty parts so a bad fuel pump is unlikely. I'm leaning more towards the sending unit. When you fill up full from a quarter tank is it about 20 gallons? And before buying anything else I'd just double check the connections to make sure.


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When you changed both fuel pumps, did you change the fuel sending units as well, and just to make sure, did you hook up the sending unit transfer hose? Also where did you get the pumps from?


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P0421 means the bank 1 O2 sensor is reading above the limit. That combined with the bank 2 sounds like you have a vacuum leak that's post MAF. And with a leak it is possible that it'll throw the boost code as well. I'd say check your pcv hoses and intake hoses, since they're plastic and with all the heat they have been known to crack. Also check the turbo hoses that are on top of the Y-intake. I usually have the engine running as I spray a little bit of carb cleaner or starting fluid across the hoses and see if the rpm increases.


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I know its been a long time since anyones posted here, but does anyone know the part number, or where to find the part number, for the two transformers? I believe my illumination transformer is out and I figured if I'm there I might as well replace both. Thanks in advanced!

 

Picture below shows what I'm talking about, the Digital display is fine along with the illumination of the needles, but the backlights are out. 

Thank you and I did stumble upon it when I was looking earlier for a solution. I've been driving my other car and couldn't get a picture of it till just now but here it is. It's not the digital display but the illumination on the gages.


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Hey guys, first and foremost thanks for looking any thanks for any help! My 05 CTT Instrument Cluster stopped glowing at the gauges. The needles and center display work fine, its just the analog gauges don't light up, other than a little bit of the turbo gauge lighting up on the far right. Ill post pics when I get a chance. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

If you don't see any grease on the hinges that could help in make it difficult. It only needs a little grease but definitely needs it to help open and close easier. Some silicone spray would help in the longer run, wd-40 is good but doesn't last as long.


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It's tough for a moment but then they spring open


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Yes it is. Since your parked it is reading very little fuel consumption, therefore showing very good fuel economy. If you have the navigation option, you can also see it there when you hit the trip button on it.


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I thought the same thing when I first used mine. As long as they are properly in the locking slot on the tracks then your good. Make sure the key tumbler is in the right position (unlocked if I'm not mistaken) and push it closed.


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Yeah, if your car does that intermittently then it could mean it's on its way out. Possibly meaning the valve is getting stuck every so often and about to crap out all together. But if it were to fail fully it just means the hesitation will happen more often and maybe a little worse as well.


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Sometimes with that code it's the purge valve/vent valve under the hood right next to the throttle body on the drivers side. By the fuel rail. Those are somewhat know to fail. That and pcv diaphragm on drivers valve cover


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Any check engine light on? Any vacuum leaking noise?


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Under the drivers and passenger footwell. Under the carpet it tends to collect water from the drain pipe if it's clogged. My friends 09 cayenne would start intermittently and after buying a new battery we checked under the carpet to find out there was alot of wiring submerged in water. Drained,dried, and dielectric greased it and started no problem.


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Water intrusion could be the culprit as well especially if you run the A/C quite a bit. And it wouldn't hurt to get your battery and alternator tested since these vehicles rely so much on the electrical system. Any auto parts store should be able to test them for free


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Doing that every couple of months helps to keep it properly adjusted since it's fully electronic


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Thank you for your replies, I am fairly mechanically competent and understand the cleaning procedure of the throttle body but am unsure of the reset  could you elaborate a bit on it for me?
 
Thank you again.

Turn the key all the way on without starting it, wait about 30 seconds and if you have your hood open youll hear some noise coming from the throttle body, it's self adjusting at that moment. Turn the key back, take it out and then back in, start it and your done.


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Also never hurts to clean the throttle body and do a throttle body reset as well.


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It's a common thing that really sucks. The antenna for the remote transmitter can't pick up the signal from far away, sometimes not even 5-10' away from the car. If you do a search on the forum you can find more info about it.


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1. About the mirrors, if you can get a small dab of silicone adhesive on the inside of it, that should hold it nicely and won't harden up too hard to where it'll break if it needs to be taken apart again.

2. It's possible that the motor that controls the up/down movement has gone, but sounds more like a blown fuse somewhere that is preventing it from getting power.

3. There's plenty of good aftermarket stereos : Kenwood Excelon DNX893S, Pioneer 5201 NEX, Alpine W960. All of those have GPS Navigation as well.

4. Sounds to me like the ducts have been removed or broken behind the dash, by the center console area, it could be something simple that the previous owner forgot to do maybe when they were changing the cabin air filter.

And there is a recall on the transfer case computer/motor. Give the dealership a call and see if yours qualifies as one of the cars with the recall. Mine doesn't unfortunately so I have to fix it myself.

Good luck!


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