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Octane4evr

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About Octane4evr

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    Contributing Member

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  • From
    Seattle, WA, USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2003 C4S X51, 2006 325i, 2015 Q5, 1965 Mustang 5 speed - 415HP, 420ft-lb, 1997 Tacoma, 2003 Suburban
  • Future cars
    2011-2013 BMW M3 Coupe
  • Former cars
    1969 Mustang, 1976 BMW 320i, 1972 240Z, 1969 Firebird Convertible

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  1. Thanks Kdgiv, Was there a kit you bought for the Powerflex bushings or did you buy them one-by-one? Also, did you put new control arms in with rubber bushings or did you retrofit them with Powerflex bushings? Thanks!
  2. Thanks for the response. This is exactly the look I'm going for. Are your wheels 18" or 19"? Thanks for the DIY!
  3. Octane4evr

    Central Locking/Alarm Issue

    I'm having a similar issue. 2003 911 C4S Alarm code 47 - Control locking synchronization Symptoms: Double beep of horn on lock with keyfob Red light on dash door lock button Double beep when dash door lock button is pressed Passenger door window does not go down when either interior or exterior handle is pulled Both doors lock/unlock with the keyfob Both doors lock/unlock with the key Passenger door lock mechanism???
  4. I have a 2003 C4S with just over 100k miles and it appears to have the original shocks. I'm wanting to go with a lowered suspension, planning on H&R's with Bilstein B8's. My question is what are all of the other components that need to be changed to accommodate the lowered suspension, drop links & etc. I'm also interested in a list of wear the components that should be changed at this mileage so I don't have to go back in there for a long time. If someone's gone down this path I'd very much appreciate your impressions of the ride quality. This is my daily driver in the Seattle area and our roads are pretty rough. I don't want something that will shake loose my fillings. Thanks for the help!
  5. You might want to throw a water pump and surge tank in while you're in there and a new belt and tensioner for good measure. My 2003 C4S had a very heavy clutch pedal when I bought it a year ago at 80k. Turned out that the helper spring, slave cylinder and hose were bad as well. Don't know about the grinding on downshift, I've not had that issue. Keep the maintenance/wear parts up to snuff and you'll really enjoy this car. Best of luck!
  6. If the seals for the crankcase are leaking would I see oil leaks? This engine uses almost no oil, about one quart per 6000 miles.
  7. Drove with the MAF unplugged all the way home ~45 minutes. No noticeable difference in idle after the drive. The comment from Porschetech3 on the crankcase vacuum being too low has me wondering about the seals you mentioned or anything else that would cause reduced vacuum in the crankcase. Other than the seals you mentioned, should I check anything else when I have it on the lift for the oil change? Also, my independent Porsche shop expressed a concern about lifters sticking causing this issue. Any thoughts on that?
  8. I did clean the MAF with CRC's product designed for that purpose, no change. I'll pull the plug on the MAF and see what happens. Any issue in driving it for a long distance without the MAF connected or should this just be a short test? I did feel the rough idle when the data shows the variation. I'm due an oil change, planning that for next week. I'll check the Variocam+ and intake valve lift solenoid seals. In reading on this in other threads there was some success others have had by changing the IMS and cam chain tensioners. Any thoughts on doing this preemptively? Porschetech3, I tested this with a home made manometer, see the picture attached for the principle I used to create it, mine's just a length of clear tubing on a piece of plywood but inches of water is inches of water. I've heard all kinds of things about the AOS and faults with it but I can't seem to find a diagram showing where it is and where all the various hoses are and how to access. Any help would be appreciated. I'm going to get my local shop to do a leak down test, hopefully next week. Thanks for all the help!
  9. Thanks for the great info and advice. I've attached two log files, one for a full trip home of over an hour and one of a couple of minutes of idle after the drive. The rough running values for several of the cylinders are higher than you're seeing on yours. This time it's not #2 though. I have a call into my shop, I recall they did a compression check when they did the plugs and coils. Not sure about a leak down. I'll post that info when I get it. Idle after 1 hr drive.xlsx Full trip.xlsx
  10. FIRING ORDER!!! Now I understand why the column order was wacky - Thanks! I did swap the column order, not just the labels. It took me a few minutes to get the Durametric set up so the car was warm when I started logging the data. I'll create a log file on the way home tonight and add coolant temp to the list and post the results. I see the same thing on cylinder 2 but I wasn't sure what the acceptable range actually is. I'm not sure how a leak down test is accomplished, is that something a shop would need to do?
  11. Here's an updated file with the data as numbers instead of text so it can be plotted.2017_11_11_15_41_50_UW_TRIP - Data.xls
  12. Over the past couple of weeks I've checked the cam deviation values when the engine is fully warm, they change only slightly one varies from 1.63 to 1.75 degrees and the other from 0.00 to 0.03. They are steady at whatever value they have for that trip throughout the RPM range. The plugs and coils are only about 4000 miles old. The symptoms were present before they were changed. There are no misfires logged on any cylinder during idle or at cruise. I've attached a log file of a recent trip logging everything I could think of and Ahsai's suggestions. The other thing I checked was the crankcase vacuum at idle. It is 2.5 inches of water. I also found another thread where Ahsai and JFP helped discover that the problem that a 986 owner was having was the MAF. JFP has already suggested this might be and MAF problem. I'm willing to change it out depending on your confidence level after seeing the data. Is there any way to check for a stuck lifter? Thanks for all the help!!! 2017_11_11_15_41_50_UW_TRIP_KEEGAN.xls
  13. On the topic of going to coilovers... Has anyone used the BC Racing BR Series Coilovers? Seem like a bargain for getting all the adjustment you need to get the right ride height.
  14. Cleaned and did the TB/Idle reset. No effect on the problem. No Idle control valve on the 2003 engine. Checked around for a vacuum leak. Moved around the Oil Tube to see if there was a leak, no change in engine performance. This time when pulling the oil cap off the engine RPM dropped and got very rough, I may not have had it fully warm last time. I've attached the Durametric screen showing cam deviation, two separate tests. They aren't the same on both sides, not sure what they should be though. When I activate the "valve lift control banks 1 and 2" (There are two of them listed with the same name) the engine shuts off immediately.
  15. It really does feel like a vacuum leak. I'm more familiar with small block V-8's and this is a lot like it feels when the carb isn't fully sealed to the intake manifold or there's some other vacuum leak. I'll clean the TB, I'm not sure the 2003 has an Idle Control Valve, as you suggest and check for disconnected tubes/cracks in the oil filler. Thanks for the help.
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