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Everything posted by flatsixing
Thanks JFP. Looks like I am going to find out early next week.
All of my accessory and crankshaft pulley's seem to be in tact. Wondering, if through some research, the loud pop I heard was the high pressure relief valve of the AC unit. Can anyone comment on whether or not the tensioner can simply fail on it's own? Could it be possible this is all I need to replace, and would anyone care to comment on a DIY or if the engine needs to be lowered to accomplish? Thanks in advance!
RFM, pulley appears to turn freely.
Thanks everyone for your reply's. I have been traveling and for whatever reason, have not been getting notifications on your postings. slicky rick, your assessment is correct. The tensioner is no longer in the right position and the tensioner pulley has dropped down to the lower right and wiggles excessively. The hydraulic pulley (red arrow) is the only thing in place right now. The bolt within the 24mm section is loose and can pull out. Something has caused this to suddenly occur. I was sitting stationary with the AC running in 105 temps for about 10 minutes. I wonder if my AC compressor seized? The AC pulley still turns, as do all of the other accessory pulley's. Surprised the belt did not break with this, but something of force caused the bolt holding the water pump housing to the engine block to shear the bolt to the left of the yellow arrow. Can it possibly be that all that needs to be replaced here is a new tensioner??? I see no DIYs on this either...
Loren, we can always count on you. 2009 (997.2) Carrera S VIN WP0AB29979S720649
Guys, Was waiting for my son this week in hot weather with the AC running. As we left our destination and I began to drive away, I heard a loud pop, followed by grinding and squealing. The battery generator warning light came on and being only 2 miles from home, I shut off the AC and made it to the garage. Upon inspection, my serpentine belt is fine, but I have an obvious problem with the tensioner. I have searched this site and the internet for a DIY. Anyone have anything they can share? I am thinking in need to replace the tensioner completely. I also, reluctantly, noticed what looks like a sheered bolt. (pictured) Would appreciate any input!
Guys, I have been searching posts on the consistent spoiler problems on the 2001 Turbo. I am not interested in fixing or replacing the leaking rams, I simply want to jump/disable the wiring prior to the microswitches so that I do not get the failure warning light above 75. I followed a successful post from another member who spiced the grey/black wires on the upper microswitch and the blue/black on the lower microswitch, but now I get the warning light as soon as I start the car. Any recommendations to cure and prevent the light from coming on ANY time? Thanks in advance. C
Guys, thanks for the response and sorry for the delay- traveling for the past week. I have not changed the fluid in the gearbox for the 1.5 years I have owned it and I am guessing it was not changed prior. Would this create this first gear hesitation to 2000 RPMs? Per Highlander, it is just momentary, but consistent with almost each start.
Loren- I am shooting for a single post/reply. Waited about 45 minutes for the car to quietly shut down. Still pulling about .08 amps- obviously high. Pulled every fuse without much response- in one case it dropped to .7 which was better, but not where we need it to be. I believe the previous owner has an outlet wired behind the radio for what looked like an external antenna- you could literally plug a car phone charger into it. Nothing is plugged in right now- but would this be a source. Would the Rennline draw power? Again, as soon as I shut off the kill switch, the amps from from .08 to .00. Still perplexed- anything else you can think of? I will continue to search forum tonight for answers...
Loren, thanks for the reply. Quite honestly, it did not appear to me that my initial post (or 2) was successful. I apologize for the repeated posting. I do appreciate your role on this board and I will do what you suggest and report back to the group. Thanks again.
Guys, this site is a bit of a double edged sword for me. One on side, I love to post and get feedback from the most knowledgeable group on the internet. On the other, it usually means that I have a problem. I have an 01 Turbo that has a Rennline Kill Switch. If I don't use this switch, my battery goes dead in a couple of days. Well, I should say sometimes it does, sometimes it does not. There are days when I stop for an errand and come out after 15 minutes and my car turns over, pauses for a 3-4 seconds, then turns over. I tested both the Volts and Amps tonight with my Bosch Multi. 12.63V across the battery. .08 amps (with the negative terminal disconnected) between the negative lead and negative post. If I turn on the Rennline- amps drop to 0. Beyond perplexing. Anyone ever experience this? Thoughts? There are times when I get weird electrical errors- like PSM or ABS lights come on, etc., but then stay off once I use the Rennline. Is the kill switch okay to use daily- any problems with doing so. I will check my volts on the battery in the AM to see where I am relative to the 12.63 tonight.
Thanks for the replies everyone- appreciated. Ahsai- I will confirm this- thanks. Hilux2400, this is precise what it does, thanks for the post on that. White987S- there really is not a week that the car is not driven, even winter when the roads are dry. Might be a good option to consider though. I will report back my findings!
Hi Guys- I am on my 5th rear engine Porsche, currently that would be a 2001 Turbo. It is the best Porsche I have owned, as a matter of personal opinion, having driven more that 100 of these things- including a fair number of the newest 991s. I love this 996TT, but as always, there are a few quirks. I am on my 2nd Bosch battery- beginning yesterday. Now it may be that the battery was bad, as my shop indicated today when I brought it in- no power- not even enough to test it. After 2 hours of charging- it would not hold a charge and they replaced it for free. My question is at the end of all this is, is there something, possibly stray voltage, that could cause a battery to go completely dead after 3 months of normal driving, or could this have just been a bad battery. I purchased the car last fall with essentially a " power kill switch" in the interior, similar to what you would see in some of the Ferraris or Maserati's. Even with the key out of the ignition- there is always power to this. I am sure if my alternator were bad, no matter how good my battery, the car would not run- but would a bad alternator cause what should have been a perfectly good Bosch to go bad in 3 months. I do plan to take it in and have it looked at- just thought I would get some early advice from the real experts. In advance- thanks.